Underground wiring

This my 1st time doing this so here goes:
I recently had someone come to my back yard and replace some sprinkler heads. The gentleman accidently placed a small cut into the FIOS wire and I lost everything. The wire itself was not 6 inches deep; rather 2 inches or less. When I called Verizon to replace the wiring, no one at Verizon informed me that the replacement wiring would cost upwards to $450 to 650+ . I now have a company out of OKlahoma City which are callling me to collect the invoice. Oh yea, a collection agency has also called. But the real deal is this: the replacement wire is lying on top of the tree root system in my neighbors yard AND most of the new wiring is close to my sprinkler heads. I'm now in a position to have the wire cut again by my neighbors yard crew OR having someone come by to do more replacements on my sprinkler heads. So:
a) why didn't someone at Verizon tell me that this was going to cost me? Last time this happened...no charge.
b) Why did the crew come so close to my sprinkler heads? I thought they would travel close to the fence and avoid trouble.
I have sent pictures to the CMR Claims Dept folks in Oklahoma City ad explained the pictures for its it's worth. The gentleman at Oklahoma City seems to think I can work on my sprinkler heads with very little room and avoid cutting the wire. I have been a loyal customer for bot AT&T and Verizon. Can you help me on this?
Thanks!

Hi cicicat,
Your issue has been escalated to a Verizon agent. Before the agent can begin assisting you, they will need to collect further information from you. Please go to your profile page for the forum and look at the top of the middle column where you will find an area titled "My Support Cases". You can reach your profile page by clicking on your name beside your post, or at the top left of this page underneath the title of the board.
Under "My Support Cases" you will find a link to the private board where you and the agent may exchange information. The title of your post is the link. This should be checked on a frequent basis, as the agent may be waiting for information from you before they can proceed with any actions. To ensure you know when they have responded to you, at the top of your support case there is a drop down menu for support case options. Open that and choose "subscribe". Please keep all correspondence regarding your issue in the private support portal.

Similar Messages

AAAAARRRRGGGHHHH !!!

Hi,
Sudden speed drop !!
Up to 20 July was getting 72-73 Mbps download, 18.80 Mbps upload and a ping of 18-19 ms - my download IP profile was 77 Mbps.
On 23 July I test the speed because I thought pages were loading a little slowly and it came back as 61Mbps download, 18.50 Mbps upload and ping of around 31-33 ms - a BT Wholesale test stated my download IP Profile had dropped to 65 Mbps
Now, I accept that in the grand scheme of things, a download speed of 61Mbps is pretty good (compared to some on here), but I've spent what seems like a year of my life on the phone to India as, in my opinion, something has changed and caused my connection to be impacted??
The chap I was talking to basically said that as far as they were concerned, if it was higher than 44 Mbps, I should be satisfied!!
Two of my friends on Infinity are connected to the same cabinet as I am. One of them is about 100M closer to the cab than me, the other about 20M further away than me. Whilst they are only on Infinity 1, they both get max speed (38-39Mbps) and have a ping of around 15ms.
I had an engineer here at the end of May who diagnosed a line fault as he said the lines were over 30 years old!! He stated I was less than 300M from the cabinet and when he tested my connection at a pole 50M from my house he was getting 76Mbps - from that point, he said there had clearly been some sort of wiring issue in the past as he could see new overhead wiring linking the two poles together, bypassing some the underground wiring.
It's such a shame that all the investment in fibre rollout if crippled by antiquated street wiring!!!
Could it be the recent warm weather that's caused this??
I'm certain it's not what the bloke on the phone said "lots of customers have joined BT in your area and your speed has been lowered to accommodate them" !!! Did they all get connected on 21 July ???

Ray,
Thanks for the info.
What I've got to do now is convince BT that there is a problem "somewhere" !!
I think I understand the DLM system, in so much as the IP profile is progressivly lowered if the system detects disconnections/problems on the line - that's what I experienced in April/May when it gradually went down from 72 -> 67 -> 64 and then settled at 59 Mbps.
After the Engineer vist at the end of May it went back to 72-74 Mbps download and stayed there until 20th July.
This time, it's just suddenly been chopped from an IP profile of 77 to 65, literally overnight. The kids are moaning at me now 'cos the ping has gone up so much that it's getting them killed online !!!!

Working with Verizon to get blocks wired for fios, only to be ignored!

I own an audio video home automation company for 12 years now. Since fios came out I have been recommending it. I have 2 square blocks in Brooklyn,NY with no cablevision and no fios, my customers have to deal with DSL and Direct TV, two of the biggest nightmares for a installation company.
For almost two years now I have been walking around with Verizon engineers,sales reps,wiring contractors for Verizon,I've even had the home owners sign off on the necessary paperwork to install fios in the back yards for fios. I did all the leg work. All for my customers.
The people I've been in touch with will no longer return my calls, its really not very nice. So I had decided that if this post doesn't get a Verizon big wigs attention I will personally walk cablevision through the process and block Verizon from getting onto the property that has the entrance to the 1st pole on the block and the manhole for the underground conduits that hit the 1st pole since it sit on my customers property, and they'll listen to me because they are **bleep** off with the promises that were made to them by Verizon.
1st snag in the install was the strike, then the 2nd was hurricane sandy which are over a year apart.
Don't know what else to do besides telling my customers to avoid fios. Even though its a great service.
I don't know what the next step is.

mdram4x4 wrote:
Brian68 wrote:
The point is I SHOULDN'T have to purchase a $30 unlimited data plan. I have ZERO interest in using Verizon's data. That's why I have a phone with wi-fi. As I said the only reason I upgraded to a smart phone was because Verizon made a $15 plan available. If I knew if was only going to be for 3 months I wouldn't have bothered.
and if you accidently use it and get charged you will come complain about that.
read some old posts.
Each to his/her own etc, but I have never understood the attraction of using smartphones only on wifi.
Smartphones are fun/great/choose-your-own-adjective, but for a number of tasks they are much less capable than a laptop. So, where I am sure of wifi, especially at home or work, I would prefer to use a laptop/tablet Smartphones come into their own, in my opinion, where you can use them when you wouldn't have a computer. I love using my phone on CDMA and GSM data when out, but the only time I would use it on wifi at home for instance is when updating the apps or something like that.

Extend my wired Airport Extreme (5th Gen) with a 2nd Wired Airport Extreme (also 5th Gen)

I have a 5th Generation Airport Extreme in my house hard wired directly from my fiber optic provider
Then I have that 5th Generation Airport Extreme hard wired directly to my Desktop Computer in a separate building in my back yard (using an Ethernet Cable run through an underground conduit).
Using that setup, I DO get Wi-Fi for my iPhone 4S & iPad 3 in that separate building in my back yard, but it is sometimes so weak, it really is not useable.
To improve the Wi-Fi signal for my iPhone 4S & iPad 3, I plan on adding a 2nd 5th Generation Airport Extreme in the separate building in my back yard.
I will disconnect the Ethernet Cable that is currently plugged directly into my Desktop computer & plug it into the 2nd Airport Extreme.
Then, I will use a short Ethernet Cable to directly connect my Desktop Computer to the 2nd Airport Extreme.
The desktop computer is an older Dell Dimension 9200 running Windows XP Professional with Service Pack 3
With this set-up, will the strong Wi-Fi signal I now get in my house from the 1st Airport Extreme NOT be reduced?
And since the separate building is only 300 square feet, I assume the Wi-Fi signal there will also be as strong with the 2nd Airport Extreme being so close to everything?
Could someone point me to SPECIFIC instructions on how to CORRECTLY set this up so that the 2nd Airport Extreme will EXTEND my home network?

So, I should unplug the 1st Airport Extreme from the outlet before doing anything?
Yes.
Since the 2 Airport Extremes will be in 2 separate locations, which do I plug into the outlet first?
I would suggest plugging the one in the house first, then the second one in the backyard building. Be sure to connect the Ethernet coming from the first into the second before power-on either base station.
Could I connect the Ethernet both to the 2nd Airport Extreme & then to the desktop, then plug in the current Airport Extreme in the house, then run out & plug in the 2nd Airport Extreme in the separate building?
The key is to leave everything powered-off; connect the Ethernet cables, and then, start by powering up the house unit, then the backyard unit, and then, the PC. Make sense?
P.S. I have the Version 5.5.3 of Airport Utility for Windows (using Windows XP Professional with Service Pack 3)
There does NOT seem to be a later version than that.
That worked great for the installation of the 1st Airport Extreme several months ago, so I shouldn't have any problems, should I?
There is a later version (5.6.1) for Windows, but required Windows 7 to run on. Since you can already administer the 1st 5th gen Extreme with the version you have now, you shouldn't have any issues continuing to use it for the second unit.

Wiring Colouring

I wonder if any body can help me. I'm having some work done which means I need to briefly disconnect the drop cable at the outside junction box (I appreciate the legal issues surrounding this) The problem is despite the House only being 10 years old the drop cable doesn't conform to any of the usual Colour schemes mentioned on the Internet. I have 10 core / 5 Pair ??!!! Drop cable. The problem is I have 5 plain white cables and then the Blue, Orange, Green , Brown and Grey, so once the jelly clips are removed how do I identify which white cable is which labelling isn't really going to be an easy option. Is there some way of identifying which white is which and goes with which traditional colour scheme cable internally.
Many Thanks for any help or advice

Thanks for the reply. Apologies yes underground cable and appears not twisted pairs unless I strip back more outer cabling. It is currently a tangled mess of wires that I was hoping to sort out with out paying open reach £127. The colour inner inner cables already about 6 inches long and the plain white definitely appears to be a greasy white no banding with in the amount the is bare that I can see. This appears to be completely unlike the conventional exterior grade cable used from Outside Junction to master socket. I will have another look. By the way if it helps the Estae is 10 years old and was wired by contractors not BT and has always been an issue.
Many Thanks

HT4557 We have a wired in network in our house, we also have an apple airport for use with my ipad/our ipods/iphones, etc. Can we use home sharing if our desktops do not have wifi?

Hi,
this is my first time on the support board, so hopefully I'm doing this correctly. We have 3 desktop computers in our family, which are wired in with ethernet cables. We also use the cables with our laptops (we have various connections throughout the house) I have an iphone, and an ipad, my boys have ipod touches. I purchased an airport router to use when I'm using my ipad, etc. The boys and I would like to be able to share apps that we have purchased. I'm wondering if there is a way to use home sharing in our situation.
thanks!

Have a look here...
http://macmost.com/setting-up-multiple-ios-devices-for-messages-and-facetime.htm l

I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog. Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog. Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

Welcome to the Apple Community.
It's do-able, but I don't think it's a great idea.
DVI
Some users with DVI have managed to get their TV's to work with DVI-HDMI cables. DVI carries no audio, so alternative connections need to be explored to enable audio. DVI doesn't necessarily support HDCP as well as other standards used by HDMI (which may or may not be an issue)
Analogue
There are hardware converters that will convert HDMI to various other types of output, however there are some issues with doing so that you should be aware of.
HDCP
HDCP compliant converters will not allow you to watch HDCP protected content such as that from the iTunes Store. Non compliant converters exist but we cannot discuss them under the Terms of Use for these communities.
Resolution and aspect ratio
I'm not aware of any converters that will scale the output from the Apple TV, any TV or projector which is used will need to be widescreen and support resolutions of 720p (Apple TV 2), 720p/1080p (Apple TV 3)
DAC
DAC (Example Only - Not a recommendation or suggestion that this is suitable in your circumstances)

At a loss. Wiring a possessed house I think! Input needed

Need some help.
I know and have done a lot of networking No pro, but self taught. Did run Ethernet of my whole house (ex wife's house now ) pre wifi days. Running wires, using switches and routers. All worked. Have down a ton of wifi - all Apple gear for myself in my location, friends and family. Good to go. I currently run a bunch in my home for iPhones, computers, netflix, itunes server, Air Video for all devices. Flawless.
So I'm not a dummy at least. So……
To my dads house. My on going project for a year. Great house. Big. Hand built back in the '50's. All plaster. Well made.
1- His office - cable modem to Airport Extreme - named BASE. Across this room, one Airport express (all AX are older g units) for the stereo from computer.
Now when I try to extend this network only for him to use his iPhone with Apple Remote to control music, I have now bought 5 Airport Expresses - the signal will not carry for more than 10 feet at best in this house (it's possessed I swear). NOT KIDDING.
I put an Express 10 feet from the office to a kitchen, why because any further I get no signal connection.
From this Express another one 10 feet for a den.
But the signal is so weak it doesn't work.
The house is plaster - I guess very well plastered and who knows what metal lathering is behind the plaster? It's a ranch.
What could possibly abort wifi signal like this. Oh, I might add, no iPhones work in the house either. We're in NY.Long Island. Major ATT signal. Nada in house. Go outside no problem.
So I'm going to tackle this again this weekend. Start from scratch. Any insight? I'm asking because I'm at a loss and think I'M NUTS! LOL
What would make wifi not carry for any distance? Lot's of windows in the house too.
I'm on the verge of telling him to have cable run another wire and modem to the other side of the house.
I'm stumped. I was going to post a few times but can't imagine why I can't get this working. Feel like a dunce.
Right now he tells me it's no connection in the den. The last AX extender not 10 feet from him.
Thanks in advance.

In addition to metal, water also will cause significant reduction in signal. The higher the frequency, the worse the problem. (One of the reasons why in the past submarines needed to surface to use their radios.) Perhaps the plaster or wood is exceptionally wet or the particular plaster they used has a high metal content. You may want to try using only 2.4GHz instead of 5HGz because lower frequencies penetrate walls better. I'm grasping for straws, but I'm not sure what else you could try short of tearing down walls.
I will tell a story of one wiring job I did. My boss gave a quote and approval sight unseen. He normally didn't do this but due to various circumstances and time constraints, he took a gamble. The job was to install a DSL modem and wireless router for a doctor's office. The modem and router were in the managers office. The reception area in the next room would have two workstations about 15 feet away, connected wirelessly. The doctor's office would get one laptop connected wirelessly, about 100 feet at the other end of the building. The building was all wood construction so no one foresaw what happened next. The manager's computer was fine since it was wired. One of the wireless reception workstations was fine with full signal strength since it was a line of sight through an open doorway to the router. The other reception workstation was working but only had 50% signal strength. (Not line of sight to the router.) The doctor's laptop had zero bars. I moved the laptop next to the router and got 100% signal strength. I walked the laptop next to the workstation with line-of-sight, and still got 100%. I walked to the other reception workstation and got 50%, same as the workstation. I walked out of the reception area turned left and started to walk down the hallway to the doctor's office. I took no more than 5 steps and got zero bars! I walked back a few steps and the meter jumped to 50%. I had to do this a few times to fully convince myself. It was only a chance conversation I had with one of the nurses who recalled that the former occupant of the office was a dentist. So we surmised that the room that the router was in might have had the x-ray machine, so they would have lined the walls with lead or whatever. In any case, we ended up having to pull wires. But we learned that regardless of what it looks like on the outside... But this does sound quite similar to your experience.
There's also the time that my coworkers found that the whole wall was 1/4" steel plate. The walls were covered with drywall so we didn't know it was there until we ruined a half dozen drill bits. It seemed like it was armor plate steel. We think the building used to be a indoor gun range or something. And there was the time that we encountered hardened concrete walls at an office using a former military building. Fortunately neither of those had Wi-Fi but we likely would have had signal problems in both cases. It taught us that we can't assume and needed to do a thorough inspection ahead of time.
So while I don't think the house is possessed, I do suspect that the original builder used some funky local material. Maybe he was a conspiracy theorist and has tinfoil in all the walls.

Airport Extreme no longer recognizes or provides internet to wired devices

Not sure if it was the power outage or an update that is the problem; but, I had a 5th generation Airport Extreme as the center of my home network with a solid connection to the internet for both my wired and wireless components. A few days ago, after a power flicker (all components on surge protectors) my wireless internet would not stay connected more than 45 seconds before dropping and oddly, none of my wired components we showing up on the network or getting an internet signal from the AEBS. After two hours with my ISP technical support personnel we deduced that the problem was the AEBS and the modem was fine. I bought a new AEBS yesterday (the new long cube one) to use until my appointment to have the 5th gen looked at. Plugged that in and instantly my wireless network came back up - rock solid. However, anything I connect directly to the AEBS via ethernet does not get an internet connection or show up in the network. I searched for two days in these forums for a similar problem - but, have gotten nowhere. I used my wired connections for internet phone service and really need to get this fixed soonest. Much thanks for any help anyone can throw my way.

I would find it odd that you would have a replacement AirPort and still not have Ethernet connectivity ... but, of course, anything is possible. The DHCP service on the AirPort provides IP addresses to both wired and wireless clients by default so it shouldn't work for either if there was something amiss with it.
At this point, I would suggest that you try the following:
Perform a "factory default" reset on the AirPort. After it resets it will default to its "out-of-the-box" configuration which is a wireless Internet router that will broadcast an unsecured wireless network with a Network Name of something like: Apple Network NNNNNN.
Without making any changes to the AirPort, try connecting any of your wired devices to it. If it still does not get the proper IP address and network connectivity I would suggest that you try performing a complete power recycle of your networking hardware. Please check out the following AirPort User Tip for details.

TS3581 After installing OS 7 my iPhone is no longer recognized by car stereo even though it is hard wired in. It doesn't even charge! What gives?

After installing OS 7 my iPhone is no longer recognized by car stereo even though it is hard wired in. It doesn't even charge! What gives?

You clearly did not notice that you have joined a USER TO USER COMMUNITY FORUM
This is NOT Apple ,Apple do not read nor do they therefore respond
So if you would like to wind your neck in ........................
try a reset of iPhone and then a restore,best, as new and if it then functions correctly try restoring with your backup

Solution to use Airprint across subnets wired/wireless

A lot of companies are trying to figure out how to setup airprint to print
in the workplace, wired+wireless across subnets.
We finally figured it out with some DNS magic and a CUPS server.
I have documented the solution at a live document hosted at
http://sites.google.com/site/iwastepaper/
Hopefully it helps a few folks.
<Edited by Host>

You will want to make sure your APs can route from where ever you install them to the WLC managment address.
How APs find the controller can happen a few different ways:
1) DNS A record
2) Layer 2 broadcast (which you seen already)
3) IP Route Forward
4) DHCP Option 43
5) Manual Prime the AP
Most folks lead with option 43.
http://www.my80211.com/cisco-wlc-labs/2009/7/4/cisco-dhcp-option-43-configuration-nugget.html
if you check the config guide you will explain the other processes.

Windows 7 and windows 8 desktop wired and 7510e printer connected to win 7 wireless

I have a windows 7 64 bit HPavilion Elite 150f desktop set up wired with a 7510e photosmart printer connected to it wireless, now I have purchased a windows 8 desktop HP envy 700-019 desktop.
When I set up my new windows 8 desktop I just plugged it into my wireless router/modem combo and it found my printer and I could just print from it, I did not download any software or drivers for my printer or set up a home group as I was not sure how to set it up but last night I tried to set up a homegroup,
I used my wireless network key and entered it and pressed connect, then I entered the Homegroup password that was downloaded for me from Microsoft, but my windows 7 says homegroup and my windows 8 shows private network so I am not sure what I have done wrong, I chose to only share music and printers, can anyone tell me how to do this correctly as I am not sure that I have done it properly.
On my windows 8 I can go to my printers web site by entering the static IP address that cloud support set up for me and it shows as connected but I do not want to enter any printer code as that is already set up on my windows 7, I can also scan to email on my windows 8 but I am not sure what if any security I have on my windows 8. The last time I had a homegroup set up I payed someone to do it for me so I did it by guess work more than anything, if someone can lead me through it step by step I would appreciate it.

Hi @emma22
I would like to do my best to help, but please bear in mind the issue you are expressing is an inquiry for Microsoft not HP. I did find something I think will be most helpful, and I hope it resolves the issue, but if the issue persists, or you have additional questions, it might be best to reach out to the Microsoft community.
Here is what I found; HomeGroup from start to finish.
In the top right hand corner of the article, you can change it from WIndows 7 to Windows 8. I hope this helps.
Please click the Thumbs up icon below to thank me for responding.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Sunshyn2005 - I work on behalf of HP

WRT310N: Help with DMZ/settings (firmware 1.0.09) for wired connection

Hello. I have a WRT310N and have been having a somewhat difficult time with my xbox 360's connection. I have forwarded all the necessary ports (53, 80, 88, 3074) for it to run, and tried changing MTU and what-not.
I don't know if I have DMZ setup incorrectly, or if it's my settings.
Setup as follows:
PCX2200 modem connected via ethernet to WRT310N.
The WRT310N has into ethernet port 1 a WAP54G, and then upstairs (so that my Mother's computer can get a strong signal) I have another WAP54G that I believe receives its signal from the downstairs 54G.
In the back of the WRT310N, I have my computer connected via ethernet port 3, and my Xbox 360 connected via ethernet port 4.
Now, I first figured I just have so many connections tied to the router and that is the reason for being so slow. However, when I unplug all the other ethernet cords and nothing is connected wirelessly, except for my Xbox connected to ethernet port 4, it is still poor. Also, with everything connected (WAP54G and other devices wirelessly) I get on my PC and run a speedtest. For the sake of advice, my speedtests I am running on my PC are (after 5 tests) averagely 8.5 Mbps download, and 1.00 Mbps upload, with a ping of 82ms.
Here is an image of the results:
http://www.speedtest.net][IMG]http://www.speedtest.net/result/721106714.png
Let me add a little more detail of my (192.168.1.1) settings for WRT310N.
For starters, my Father's IT guy at his workplace set up this WRT310N and WAP54G's. So some of these settings may be his doing. I just don't know which.
"Setup" as Auto-configurations DHCP. I've added my Xbox's IP address to the DHCP reservation the IP of 192.168.1.104. This has (from what I've noticed) stayed the same for days.
MTU: Auto, which stays at 1500 when I check under status.
Advanced Routing: NAT routing enabled, Dynamic Routing disabled.
Security: Disabled SPI firewall, UNchecked these: Filter Anonymous Internet Requests, Multicast, and Internet NAT redirection.
VPN passthrough: All 3 options are enabled (IPSec, PPTP, L2TP)
Access Restrictions: None.
Applications and Gaming: Single port forwarding has no entries. Port Range Forwarding I have the ports 53 UDP/TCP, 88 UDP, 3074 UDP/TCP, and 80 TCP forwarded to IP 192.168.1.104 enabled. (192.168.1.104 is the IP for my xbox connected via ethernet wired that is in DHCP reserved list)
Port Range Triggering: It does not allow me to change anything in this page.
DMZ: I have it Enabled. This is where I am a bit confused. It says "Source IP Address" and it has me select either "Any IP address" or to put entries to the XXX.XXX.XXX.XXX to XXX fields. I have selected use any IP address. Then the source IP area, it says "Destination:" I can do either "IP address: 192.168.1.XXX" or "MAC address:" Also, under MAC Address, it says DHCP Client Table and I went there and saw my Xbox under the DHCP client list (It shows up only when the Xbox is on) and selected it.
Under QoS: WMM Enabled, No acknowledgement disabled.
Internet Access Priority: Enabled. Upstream Bandwith I set it to Manual and put 6000 Kbps. I had it set on Auto before, but I changed it. I have no idea what to put there so I just put a higher number.
Then I added for Internet Access Priority a Medium Priority for Ethernet Port 4 (the port my xbox is plugged into).
Administration: Management: Web utility access: I have checked HTTP, unchecked HTTPS.
Web utility access via Wireless: Enabled. Remote Access: Disabled.
UPnp: Enabled.
Allow Users to Configure: Enabled.
Allow users to Disable Internet Access: Enabled.
Under Diagnostics, when I try and Ping test 192.168.1.104 (xbox when on and connected to LIVE), I get:
PING 192.168.1.104 (192.168.1.104): 24 data bytes
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
--- 192.168.1.104 data statistics ---
5 Packets transmitted, 0 Packets received, 100% Packet loss
Also, when I do Traceroute Test for my Xbox's IP, I just keep getting:
traceroute to 192.168.1.104 (192.168.1.104), 30 hops max, 40 byte packets
1 * * * 192.168.1.1 Request timed out.
2 * * * 192.168.1.1 Request timed out.
As for the Wireless Settings, it is all on the default settings with Wi-Fi Protected setup Enabled.
To add, I have tried connecting my modem directly to the Xbox and my connection is much improved. I have no difficulty getting the NAT open, for it seems my settings are working for that. Any help with these settings would be VERY much appreciated.
Message Edited by CroftBond on 02-18-2010 01:09 PM

I own 2 of these routers (one is a spare) with the latest firmware and I have been having trouble with them for over a year. In my case the connection speed goes to a crawl and the only way to get it back is to disable the SPI firewall. Rebooting helps for a few minutes, but the problem returns. All of the other fixes recommended on these forums did not help. I found out the hard way that disabling the SPI Firewall also closes all open ports ignoring your port forwarding settings. If you have SPI Firewall disabled, you will never be able to ping your IP from an external address. Turn your SPI Firewall back on and test your Ping.
John

Unable to see Shared Folder / Drop Box on wired LAN

I am unable to connect to another Mac on my wired LAN (Netgear wndr3700), and it is unable to connect to my machine. We cannot see each others’ Public Folder / Drop Box.
We can see each others Macs in the Shared section of the Finder’s sidebar, but trying to connect fails: “The server … may not exist or it is unavailable at this time…”
Both are running 10.6.4 Snow Leopard SL. No Windows machines on the LAN - so this should be AFP only.
We can see and connect to another Mac running 10.4.11 Tiger with no problem. BUT it is unable to connect to either 10.6.4 machine.
Firewall on both machines: On; File Sharing (AFP) set to “Allow incoming connections”; Stealth mode Enabled (toggling doesn’t change); “Automatically allow signed software to receive incoming connections” is Off; “Block all incoming connections” is Off. Some other apps and services are set to Block… (krb5kdc, numbed, smbd…) AppleFileServer is set to Allow.
Sharing: File Sharing Service only is On:
Hard Drive - Everyone - Read & Write
Users - Everyone - Read Only
~ (My Home Directory) - Everyone - Read Only
Public - Everyone - Read & Write
Drop Box - Everyone - Write only
Thanks for any suggestions.

It isn't directly related to the firewall, I'm having the same problem between two up to date machines, and to be sure, I have disabled the firewall on both. however, If i connect using the connect to server dialogue, I get through just fine. I believe it could be a dns resolution problem.
strike that.
Just tested, check in advanced network settings, and if you have any wins servers listed, remove them.
krb5kdc needs to be allowed to accept connections, for me it popped up in little snitch when it was authenticating.

Wired computers unable to see printer on Airport Express...help?

Hi all,
I recently set up an Airport Extreme on our office network to offer wireless network access piggybacked on our wired router. I then purchased an Airport Express which I was planning on using as a wireless print server for our Canon i9900 for all office computers connecting wired or wirelessly, which would interface with the network via the Airport Extreme Base Station.
I have configured the Express as an extension of the existing Airport network, and attached the printer to it via USB. All the computers in the office which have airport cards onboard can see and print from the printer, which is great. The problem is that all of the computers connecting to the network via wires are unable to see the printer (this is under both 10.3.x and 10.4.x, all airport software completely updated.) The Extreme base station shows up for all office computers in their Airport Admin Utility, AND if the printer is connected directly to the Extreme Base Station via USB, all computers can see the printer over Bonjour/Rendevous.
Anybody have ideas as to how I can get my wired machines to see the printer on the Airport Express?
Thanks!!

Applications > Utilities > Airport Admin Utility
Scan and Select your Airport
Click Configure
On the Airport Tab
Base Station Options...
Check Enable Remote Printer Access
iFelix

Underground wiring

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