Uneven base on my MacBook.

Hey All! This is my first post on the support forums and my first Mac! Woo.
Anyway:
My problem is that the base on my new Aluminum MacBook seem to be uneven, and the computer wobbles when I lean my wrist on one side.
I'm sure it's a computer problem and not the surface I'm working on.
Just wondering if anyone else had this problem with their new computer?

Because it's either defective or has been used so much that it's now in need of replacement.

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Internet problem with New Airport Extreme base and new Macbook Pro

So I bought a Airport Extreme base station with my new Macbook pro.
My desktop system uses a DSL modem which is connected to my computer via an ethernet cable. It works flawless. I can also unhook the hard ethernet connection from the desktop and connect it to the Macbook Pro with no problems.
I then connected the ethernet cable from the DSL router to the WAN port on the Airport Base.
I have no problem gettiing the Macbook pro to set itself up on the Airport Network. I can NOT, though, access the internet. I even tried to type in the IP address for the DSL modem while connected to Airport base and can not connect to modem. Does anyone have any advice? Is there a bridging function in the Airport Base that has to be activated?
Another question. If I replace my current DSL Router with a wireless router, do I even need the airport base if all I want to do it connect to the internet with the laptop?
Thanks,
Danny

I have no problem gettiing the Macbook pro to set itself up on the Airport Network. I can NOT, though, access the internet. I even tried to type in the IP address for the DSL modem while connected to Airport base and can not connect to modem. Does anyone have any advice? Is there a bridging function in the Airport Base that has to be activated?
Make sure you perform a complete power recycle when switching network components.
Modem/Router Power ReCycling
- Power-off the DSL modem & AEBS. (Wait at least 30 minutes. If possible, leave the modem off overnight.)
- Power-on the DSL modem; Wait at least 30 minutes.
- Power-on the AEBS; Wait at least 5 minutes.
If that doesn't resolve the problem, and your DSL ISP requires PPPoE for connectivity, you will need to set that up on your AirPort Extreme Base Station (AEBS) as follows:
Connect your computer directly (using an Ethernet cable) to the LAN port of the AEBS, and then, using the AirPort Admin Utility, check these settings:
Internet tab
- Connect Using: PPP over Ethernet (PPPoE)
- Account Name: <ISP account name>
- Change password: <ISP password>
- Always stay connected (checked)
- WAN Ethernet Port: Automatic
Another question. If I replace my current DSL Router with a wireless router, do I even need the airport base if all I want to do it connect to the internet with the laptop?
No, the AEBS will no longer be required.

A weird ticking sound from the base of my macbook pro?

My macbook pro was bought in October 2011 but I think it's the Early 2011 edition. It's an 15 inch. My problem is that I hear a weird ticking noise coming from the base of the computer. It sounds like it is coming from under the keyboard and the mouse pad. I usually hear it whenever I move it around or place my hands on the hand rest spot(?) when I'm typing. Anybody know if I should be worried or how to fix it? The sound is really annoying... Let it be known that I baby my macbook pro. I have never dropped it on the floor or slammed it on a table or something.
Thank you in advance
P.S. If it matters, I'm running on
Mac OS X Lion 10.7.2.

That could be the stepping motor in the hard drive making noise. Sometimes the noise means nothing, other times it could mean a problem with the hard drive and it could fail soon. Could be a fan out of allignment. If you can backup your data, do so. If you an get to an Apple genius bar, take it in and have the techs run some tests to find out what the noise is.

Uneven brightness in my macbook

I have a macbook with uneven brightness display. Strangely, the right quarter of the display is not as bright as the right. The unevenness is noticeable and I cannot bear it after a relative long time of work before it. I have tried with different brightness setting, no work.
I don't know how to solve this problem.
Two weeks ago, I have call the local apple service, they refused to replace the display for me. How can I solve this problem ?
Macbook Mac OS X (10.4.7) Macbook/MA254

Sorry... it resolved my uneven brightness problem. I was hoping it would do the same for you. Mine was actually dim in both lower corners but it is now perfect after doing the advanced calibrate.
Can you take it to an Apple store so you can "show" someone the problem? If not, I can see how this is going to be tough to get repaired over the phone.
Sorry, I hope someone else chimes in here with a suggestion.
Greg

Dying/Uneven LCD on 15" MacBook Pro

So I bought a $2000 machine less than 90 days ago (a machine that Apple stopped making today) and now it has to go in for the 2nd time! Check out my posts to read that tragedy.
I just picked my machine up from my local Apple Store and was told that I have to get my LCD replaced. I decided to take it with me and call Apple to complain.
So far, I feel like the early adopters (the people who spend the most money) are getting completely screwed!
Is anyone else having issues like this with their early MacBook Pros? Mine is a week 3 model.

Its not exceptionally hard. On iFixIt.com you can prolly find a guid that can take you through removing teh complete display. After that you will have to remove the two bezel screws and turn teh monitor so the hinges are on top with the screen standing, facing you. Then you have to grip a corner with your fingers, olding that plastic edge with your thumbs as you press from the back. Once you get the casing to seperate a ilttle, get somethighn flat to pry at it with, I highly reccomend something plastic to avoid damaging anything. Usuaully once you get a corner popped you can use your small pry bar to pop the clips around two sides of the display assembly and then just pressure out the other corner with yuor hands. The difficulty of doing this can vary from second to minutes depending on how stubbnord the clips are on your display.

I lost one of four black round rubber patch at base of my macbook pro. Where can I buy the new one?

At the back of all Macbook pro will have 4 round rubber patch. I lost one of them. Where and how can I buy the new one?

Here is one source, silver though: http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Bottom-Feet-Replacement-Set-Macbook-Pro-15-p-17209 .html
Another: http://www.amazon.com/Apple-MacBook-Replacement-A1278-A1286/dp/B00BQU4K22/
Another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111041177480
Instructions: MacBook Pro: Bottom case foot replacement DIY instructions

Freezing upon start up and odd "chirping" noise from the base of my Macbook Pro summer 2011.

Sometimes when I start up my macbook pro it freezes and I get the "thinking" icon in place of my mouse. The only way to resolve this is to force shut down my computer. Also, when I put pressure on the bottom of my computer to lift it up I get this odd chirping noise.

That could be the stepping motor in the hard drive making noise. Sometimes the noise means nothing, other times it could mean a problem with the hard drive and it could fail soon. Could be a fan out of allignment. If you can backup your data, do so. If you an get to an Apple genius bar, take it in and have the techs run some tests to find out what the noise is.

One solution to make dim or uneven display better on Macbook Pro

I just figured this out while I was playing with the settings. There was a white stripe on the bottom of the screen, also a bubble of white on the right bottom corner. After this "tweak" the bubble completely disappeared.
Apple menu
System preferences
Universal Access
Set contrast before the first mark, half way to it.
BAM, screen looks much better, and where's the white bubble? Disappeard..

Do you have any menu bar utilities that could be interfering? You can quit them to see if that makes a difference. What Mac do you have? I assume you mean the video display on your Mac gets messed up, not what you see on the TV.
Try turning on Mirroring, does that display correctly?

Is the 13 inch base Macbook Pro Enough for me?

Hi, i am entering college in the fall and am wondering whether the base 13 inch macbook pro is enough for my needs. i have a very tight budget.. I will most likely carry this around 5 days a week, but i do want to dabble in a little photo/video/audio editing as well. I have a midrange dslr that i love to shoot photos and videos with, and i am starting to get into home recording audio, with an audio interface running mics drums and guitars. i am wondering if the base macbook pro is enough to handle all that i throw to it. i come from an old hp with a core 2 duo processor, 4 gigs of ram and a 500gb hard drive but it is having quite a hard time with all the editing id like to do. what do you guys think?

Hey Chris,
i think the best decision you can do is that you buy the cheaper 13'' MBP and Upgrade it to 8 GB of RAM plus you buy a SSD and built it in yourself (if u have the know-how). If not there are Special Services from authorised resellers Where you can bring your SSD and Pay about 40€ for Installation (that's the way ist is Here in Germany). And until fall a 256 Gb SSD will probably Cost 170€ or less (in $ it Should be much cheaper)
Greetings from Europe
An don't forget Apples Prices for Students. With them
You will Save a Few bucks ;)

Macbook Pro Uneven display backlight

Hi
I would like to know if uneven backlight on my macbook pro is covered by warranty
it was hard to get a good picture but,
http://the.cave.in.googlepages.com/uneven_backlight.jpg
sometimes its even worese
the display also flickers sometimes very lighyly (at 50hz etc.)
also
is there a good reason that while probing apples site
i could not find a single support e-mail address ?
cheers.
Brazy
.est

If the screen lighting is as bad as the photo seems to demonstrate, then yes, it's definitely a problem that would be covered by warranty. The screen should never actually flicker, though, since an LCD is refreshing pixel-by-pixel at 60hz, perhaps your brightness settings keep changing? If not, then it could even be the inverter (if you're using one of the CFL (pre-Santa Rosa) models). Either way, I'd try to get over to your nearest Apple Store when you can.

MacBook Pro for CAD

Hello All,
I am a Mechanical Engineering student. Most of my classes involve some work with Autodesk Inventor, Solid Edge, and other 3D CAD programs. I currently own a 13" MacBook Unibody(Late 2008, base model). I upgraded the RAM from 2GB to 4GB about a year ago. This still has a relativly small HDD with 160GB(only 65GB used). The specifications of the new base 13" MacBook Pro beat my MB. However, what my MB has that the new one does not, is a dedicated graphics card(256 MB). My parents are pressuring me into buying a new MBP, so that I could give them my current MB, which runs almost flawlessly, even after 5 years of abuse from me.
So my question is: Will graphics intensive programs like Autodesk Inventor and Solid Edge run better on a new base model 13" MacBook Pro with integrated graphics, or my current 13" MacBook Unibody with dedicated graphics?
If I had the money, I would buy the 15" MBP, which has a big graphics card. Sadly, I do not.
Note: Either way, I will be using Bootcamp to install Windows to run 3D CAD. I am not a fan of the Mac versions of these programs. Also, I am looking into replacing the CD/DVD drive with a Data Doubler so I can have two hard drives; one will be an SSD.
Thank You

Goalie, I could not agree with you more...as an engineer I have had to use many platforms and the PC has always been the absolute bottom of the barrel. The PCs and Macs do not use the same components, well except to say they both have cpus, memory, storage, graphics controlers, etc. The Mac parts are much higher level. A few years ago I was forced to buy a Dell latptop for work-related stuff...to outfit that with the same level of performance components as were standard on the MacBook Pro would have cost more than the MBP...just not the same.
Ok so much for that. Even though you say you do not have the funds for a 15", dokeep in mind that the 15" comes with both the standard Intel HD 4000 GPU and a discrete GPU so high-end graphics work will be rendered far better than you will get on the 13" model. Plus you can upgrade the memory significantly yourself on the 15" model. Plus, another plus, it comes standard with more mass storage and options for solid state instead of hard drive.
Since you don't say what year you are in, I will assume your last two years from your high level statements of courses, you will need higher capabilities in senior-level, and especially graduate-level, courses. The added capabilities of the 15" will payoff in the long run.
As for dual-boot use, the larger capacity mass storage will be important if you intend to use the Mac OS X partition for extensive work and data. So add that to the list of considerations.
Be sure to look into student discounts as Apple often has those available.

My Macbook Air is running slow with Yosemite.

My Macbook Air is running slow with Yosemite.
I checked out most of the blogs and everything and have removed widgets from the notification center, but everything seems to run kinda slowly.
Sure, i have the base model 2014 macbook air but that 4 gb ram should run a freakin finder just fine. I had Mavericks installed before, and with that, i could do everything. I even made cool music in GarageBand and nothing was lagging for me. Now i installed Yosemite... Everything is lagging. Scrolling seems like it happens around 10 FPS. That aint good man. Memory cleaner says around 1gb ram free when only the finder is running in the background (before it did around 2). I just uninstalled Memory Cleaner o I'm not looking at that little amount of memory. I don't know what to do now? I would appreciate it, if someone would help me. Otherwise, ill just wait for a new update.

Since it's new I would take it back for repair or exchange under your warranty before bothering to read further.
Try these in order testing your system after each to see if it's back to normal:
1. a. Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
    b. Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
2. Restart the computer in Safe Mode, then restart again, normally. If this doesn't help, then:
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilities menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
3. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
4. Reinstall Yosemite: Reboot from the Recovery HD. Select Reinstall OS X from the Utilities menu, and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.
5. Reinstall Yosemite from Scratch:
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
How to Clean Install OS X Yosemite
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.

Switching from Mac Mini to Macbook Air

Hello, this is my first post in this forum and I hope that I chose the right category.
Right now I'm running a Mac Mini 2011 Base model, that is the one with an 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 processor and I have also upgraded the RAM from 4GB to 8GB.
I know want to take a step further into the Mac laptops and I have my eye on the Macbook Air but I have some questions.
The work I do is mostly writing code and light photo editing with Photoshop, no heavy photo editing or video rendering. I want to know which Macbook Air I should pick to get about the same performance as the 2011 Mac Mini that I'm running right now because I'm very happy with my Mac Mini.
Here are some questions:
1. How do the processors stand up to the Mac Mini? The latest Macbook Air of course runs the new Haswell processors but I'm uncertain if I should pick the upgraded i7 processor that's available. The Macbook Air has a lower clock frequency than the Mac Mini and I was wondering if the Macbook Air can stack up.
2. Should I get the 11 inch or the 13 inch screen? I will be doing most of my work hooked up to an external monitor but sometimes I feel the need to sit down at an more comfortable place. Is there anyone who has any experience with web design/coding on an Macbook Air monitor?
I'm already planning on getting the 8GB of RAM upgrade and probably the 256GB SSD too.
I'm very thankful for any answer whatsoever!
Sincerely,
Fabian Lindfors

Mac Mini is great isnt it? Got a couple of them and typing on one now.
My new base model 2013 macbook Air I5 with 8gig of ram
vs. what im currently using now,... this Mac Mini QUAD CORE with 16 gig of ram.
Honestly on simplex Photoshop editing I notice NO difference between my quad core 16gig RAM Mac Mini and my Macbook Air 13" I5.
Ive had both 11" and 13" macbook Air, I really wouldn't go back to the 11".
Also the battery life in the 13" is a lot more than the 11". Much larger Lithium Polymer battery packs on the 13"
Yes, get the 8gig of ram regardless
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.apple-tubes.com/apple-macbook-air-11-mid-2013-haswell-i5-vs-i7-compar ison/
13" would be basically the same as above with the 11" new 2013 Air
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7

My new 13 inch Macbook Pro and FCP and FCS 2

Until today I thought I could not run FCP and FCS 2 Full Suite because of my graphics card in my base, stock, 13" Macbook Pro. -- I'm being told that my 9400M with 256 shared memory will run these applications. That's good news to me if it's true. What are some of your views from the Pro camp please. I can bring up the memory and hard drive. I just shoot and edit in Standard Definition with my Canon Optura 50 MINI DV Tapes and my Canon HV20 with the same.
I realize I am on the low end but will it work?

Some of it will, although you might not be happy with the performance of Motion and Color will probably not install at all.

2008 macbook overheating problems. SOS!

I have had macbook 2008 aluminum body since November 2008. It was a dream for two years until it started overheating & slowing down whenever I'd be browsing the internet on safari, firefox or opera with the cooling fans working overtime. It also occurs when I use a MSOffice applications, Preview, etc., leaving me with a very fancy machine with very limited use. Also, extended use of my macbook with the heating problem tends to cause it to go into sleep mode without much warning (imagine suddenly seeing a black screen & irresponsive mac in your lap!) & it has to be left to "cool off" for about 10-15 minutes before it is usable again.
I've been told it's a hardware glitch that needs to be fixed & it is also the reason why the base of the macbook to sink/curve slightly upwards. This problem is said to occur in white 2008 macbooks as well, which I came to know while discussing with a few friends of mine who own that particular model.
Any help on the matter (i.e. solutions) will be welcome. I live in Pakistan.

Hey
Try a laptop cooling stand mate, they are quite effective. Also, never use your Mac on a soft surface like a pillow or your lap. And the most important thing is to make sure there isn't anything blocking the air vents.
Run an OS X update to check for fixes.
You could also try resetting the SMC.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
That may fix your fans incase they aren't cooling properly.
Hope I helped and good luck

Uneven base on my MacBook.

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