Unwanted audio on system

I have an HP Slim Line desktop model s5212y running Windowa 7 Home Premium. I have a DSL modem plugged into the computer thru a wireless router that my wife uses for her laptop (also HP) and 2 printers. For several months now I have been getting what sounds like a news radio station on my system only. It comes on at irregular times for 5 minutes to several hours. The odd part is it doesn't matter if my browser is open or not, the station will still come on.
I have tried the Windows trouble shooting programs to no avail. Everything about the computer seems to be running fine except for this irritating and unwanted audio intrusion.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
You can try with the following solution
Click on Start and then in the Search option type – MSCONFIG
Click on the tab Startup (right side top corner)
Click on Disable All
Click on Apply
Click on Ok
A new window will pop-up, check the box – Do not show this message again
Click on Restart
Now you can check.
If the issue is not resolved then you will have to observe what happens when the radio sound starts. In order to do so, when the sound starts coming then press CTRl+Alt+Del buttons together and then start the Task Manager. The very first Tab is with the name Application, click on the tab and note down the applications are running. One of the applications will be related to the sound that comes. Once you locate the application then Right click and select End Task. Hope the Radio sound that you are getting will stop.
If now also the Radio sound does not stops then remove the DSL Modem and then after disconnect the Router and share the outcome.
If you have any further queries then please feel free to post.
Good Luck
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Beats-Audio / Sound System Enhancement dv7 / HP Envy 15

Beats-Audio - Sound system Enhancement
Test system
dv7t – 6100 Quad / Windows 7- 64bit
Beats-audio
Introduction - Cave Sound Caper
Edits 29-Nov-2011
This is a re-write of this document.
Parts One and Two have been flipped. It's a work in progress.
The purpose of this Post is to provide a method to enhance the sound coming from your onboard beats-audio speakers. The quality of the sound should improve - more importantly, MORE sound should be available. This is important if your system is suffering from lack of enough sound from the onboard speaker system.
This process does not make use of the Loudness Equalization enhancement. I tested the Loudness Equalization enhancement (for a different purpose). Setting the enhancement on my test system and then switching the enhancement off resulted in the “Low Sound” syndrome. It took some amount of work to recover from that mess. The Loudness Equalization enhancement, in this author's opinion, is to be avoided unless its use is necessary.
FLIPPED:
The original intent of this procedure has been to provide a means to increase the amount of sound available from the onboard speakers on notebooks that are equipped with beats-audio IDT sound drivers. The “Pre-work” on my original post was overwhelming the intent. If your system is healthy, and the only reason to read this document is to enhance the amount of sound from the speakers, there is no need to hash through the work to fix your IDT driver installation. I’ve moved that section to the end – IDT installation and other work has become Part Two.
You must have your IDT HD driver successfully installed into your system.   The proper IDT HD driver contains the beats-audio interface.
Where to Start?
If you have “No Sound”, the Enhancement process may not work for your system. Please take a look at Part Two and decide whether any of the steps in that section apply to you. It is not my intention that you waste your time trying things you’ve already done over and over to regain the sound on your system. There are many posts on the forum on how fix “No sound”. This post addresses only a couple of “No sound” issues.   There is one slight possibility – see the section about the controls in iTunes – make sure your sound players volume controls are not mis-matched – and make sure you didn’t turn something OFF by accident. If you turned off the sound while watching a movie and now the HDMI sound is off - Poof! You might not have any sound – anywhere. It's just something to check...
If you have “Low Sound”, you might consider reinstalling your IDT driver to see if the issue can be corrected: IDT reinstallation is described in Part Two.
SideBar: As of 24-Nov-2011
If you have a dv7t: check on your HP Software and Driver website for a new IDT HD audio driver. Depending on your model, there may be a new version of the IDT driver, BIOS, and other important updates.
Part One
Some Setup Checks and on to the Enhancement
Make sure all basic Sound settings are set to “Default” to start.
Portions of this procedure are "not of my invention". Full credit will be given later in the Post. This section explains how to increase the amount of sound coming from the onboard speakers. It also attempts to give you a bit of control over the kind of sound coming from the speakers that you may not have at the present. Beats-audio is great; frankly, though - it's made for external powered speakers or headphones... what you get from the speakers on the notebook leaves something to be desired.
A while back I found a very interesting post on the topic of increasing the sound from the onboard speakers. The post was originally written for the HP Envy15. I believe the post has merit - Part One of this procedure is based on that original post.
I tested the suggested combined actions – it does work (at least on a healthy system). The sound quality showed improvement over the standard “out-of-the-box” beats-audio setup and the quantity of volume increased. In other words, this procedure makes the sound coming from the onboard speakers louder without the use of the Loudness Equalization enhancement setting.
I would suggest trying this “Enhancement” under the following circumstances:
Sound Quality is Poor, or the amount of sound from the speakers needs improvement
Sound is quantity “LOW”*
Sound is absent AND you believe the absence is NOT due to hardware failure.** See note on iTunes.
NOTES:
* If your LOW sound issue is severe, it may ONLY respond to using the Loudness Equalization enhancement, in which case this procedure is not recommended for your use. The two are not compatible. See Part Two.
** If there is NO sound on your computer, it’s possible that completing this procedure may not result in any improvement. See Part Two.
Sound Controls – iTunes, Media Player
I would add to the emphasis on checking the volume on one’s iTunes setting. If iTunes volume is turned down, the notebook’s speakers will respond to that – turn up the volume in iTunes without adjusting the volume in the volume mixer and the sound on the notebook will not increase properly (or will suddenly jump). It’s a juggling act and one that must be taken into account when the sound is being reset.   Additionally, if you have other audio players on your computer – in addition to those mentioned in the post – be sure to check them for volume controls: it is important during a sound reset that all the sound players be in sync. If you miss this, you may not get your sound back.
Check for this mismatch in sound volume controls if you do not have sound or if you did have sound and, at some point you turned OFF your sound while watching a moving, a DVD, a something on HDMI controlled audio - and suddenly - you do not have any sound. Sound controls get tangled up. Sometimes you just have to unplug it, but you do have to check the controls.
Sample Rate and bit Depth
I do not use the suggested Sample Rate and bit depth of 24bit 96000 Hz. My system cannot tell the difference and defaults everything to 16bits – my recording equipment cannot discern the difference.   My ears lack sample rate sophistication.   I’ve left my dv7t Quad sound, Default Format (sample rate bit depth) at 16bit, 48000 Hz (DVD Quality). Sounds fine and it’s where most of my crummy recordings are set anyway. Don’t lose sleep over this one.
Where’s my Taskbar ICON?
A couple of HP forum posts have mentioned the loss of the beats audio icon from the Taskbar tray – the icon should restore itself if one can force the IDT driver to reinstall. Without the IDT driver, beats-audio is not going to work. Assuming the driver has installed and one can reach the beats-audio panel from the Control Panel, THEN it’s possible that for some weird reason the Taskbar icon didn’t reset. It might be possible to try and force a reload of the beats panel controller into the Taskbar. I think this is the file.
For a 64bit system:     C:\Program Files\IDT\WDM\sttray64.exe
The Original Post and Credits:
The original procedure and excerpts from that Post follow. Edits have been made to make it easy to read and to follow. The credits and original link are at the bottom of this page. My thanks go to JJ and JJ’s HP Envy15.
From the Original Post:
Originally Posted by bigcat400
I find the volume on this machine extremely low. Unless the room is totally quiet I can't hear a thing. Is this normal on this system, or could it be a driver issue? I am running the latest sound driver from HP's web site.
From JJ:
It took me awhile but I now have the sound level about 3x what it was to start with. Try these tweaks:
Sound Enhancement Procedure
Control Panel > Sound > Playback > (Highlight) Speakers and Headphones > Configure
New Window ‘speaker setup’ > Test (should hear sound L/R) > Next >
           UNCHECK ‘Front left and right’ (if checked) > Next > Finish
Sound > Playback > (Highlight) Speakers and Headphones > Properties >
            Enhancements > bass boost > settings > 80 Hz / boost 3db > Apply
             Tone Controls > Bass +1 Treble +3 > Apply
             Advanced > Default Format > 24 bit 96000Hz > Apply
NOTE:
After this DO NOT use the Beats control (Fn + B) or it will reset the tone controls.
HP dv7(t)
Taskbar > beats-audio panel
OR
Control Panel > Beats Audio Control Panel
        Listening Experience > Graphic Equalizer > Custom
        -1, +8, +10, +8, +9, +9, +9, +8, +9
Remember that these are suggestions – start here and re-adjust later as desired.
LEFT SIDE
Make sure Beats Audio is CHECKED
        Click the “Music” radio (round) button
        65, 65, 85, 65, 65
NOTE: The Left Side settings are somewhat arbitrary. The “Center” setting is higher – this provides the most sound and should be set higher at least initially for testing, especially if your system has sound issues.
The next section is partially excerpted from the original Post – Remember: JJ’s post was written for HP Envy15 – please adjust your results accordingly. Edits have been made for readability.
Control Panel > Beats Audio Control Panel
Playback > Speakers and headphones > Arrow above Speaker symbol and Select Small Speakers
Select Equalization> Select 'custom'>
Adjustments for this are mainly to boost the signal level in the preamp so we get higher volume while not distorting the sound from the tiny built in speakers.
My setting values are as follows: left to right;
-1, +8, +10, +8, +9, +9, +9, +8, +9, +10
MAKE SURE TO CLICK SAVE WHEN DONE!
Note: Do not crank up the Bass (31hz) control or it will overload the speakers which can't reproduce this anyway, you can even turn down more if you have distortion at high volume.
Check that the slide controls for 'master' and 'speaker symbol' are all the way up.
This should make a big difference in sound volume and quality, and there is one last way to get louder sound. Depending on what you use to play back your audio you can adjust the program’s sound settings or EQ controls also.
In iTunes the EQ has a 'preamp' slider which I boost to about +6, this increases the output level while leaving the EQ settings alone (make sure to check the turn EQ on box).
Windows media player: you have to raise all EQ levels equally (not too much) to boost without affecting sound quality.
In general it is not a good idea to use more than one EQ system in an audio signal or you get more distortion, so don't adjust the EQ curves or bass/treble on more than one device. I chose the Beats / IDT EQ to make the tonal adjustments because it is the audio driver program and preamp that outputs to the speakers, so it should have the best sound quality.
Any adjustments before the preamp that add distortion will just be amplified, so go easy on adjustments in your play back programs.
Finally, when you play your audio,
Sound > Open Volume Mixer >
Make sure to click the Sound logo in the Taskbar so the slider pops up>
Click ‘mixer’ then you should see all the sliders for your devices;
You can independently adjust the levels for the right mix.
If you open the Beats panel and minimize it then a mixer slider also shows for this and you can dial in the effect of the EQ settings.
Headphones:
One last thing; When listening to headphones you will need to increase the bass EQ setting (since headphones can reproduce the low frequencies) in the Beats panel or I just change the drop down selector to the one with a flat curve (beats studio I think) -- the volume for my headphones was not an issue so I defeat the EQ for better sound quality.
Whew. I Didn't think it was this complicated when I started typing....
Hope everyone enjoys better sound with this.
JJ
ENVY 15 l i5 540M l ATI 5830 GPU l 8GB DDR3 1333 l 2 x 160 GB SSD l 1920x1080 glossy l Win7 Pro l 10,273 3Dmark06   Last edited by JJB : 12-27-2009 at 03:41 PM.
End of Excerpted Post
Credit belongs to the original author of the original procedure:
JJB from HP beats-audio / Sound Reset Procedure
Part Two
Loudness Equalization – and the LOW Sound Result
I was testing the system sound… CD playing in the background: Sting “If on a Winter’s Night” 02 Soul Cake playing through iTunes – standard speakers-headphones (beats-audio coasting along).
Sounds -> Playback Devices -> Speakers and Headphones -> Properties -> Enhancements
I have rewritten this part three times trying to get it right. Here’s the gist:
I switched on the “Loudness Equalization” enhancement. The sound jumped; it was loud and distorted. I switched the enhancement off – the sound dropped off and didn’t come back. I turned up the volume (with the slider) and down and up and down – and I was hearing Less and less sound from the speakers: “Low Sound Syndrome”: I was hearing what would be expected at setting of 7%. Well, that sucks. (Technical term.)
Based on this experience, I hypothesize that it’s possible to lose one’s sound entirely just by initially adjusting this one enhancement and then losing control over the ensuing ever diminishing returns. I didn’t continue to test this into a theory. It’s a hypothesis. If I had an extra dv7 sitting around, I might sacrifice it on such testing. I gave up right away and went into recovery mode while I still had some sound.
Recovery:
After the Loudness Equalization was turned off,
Recovery Attempts to recover normal sound levels included:
Resetting all Sound to Default settings,
Installing the driver from the webpage (standard load – download, double-click and install), reboot,
“Hard Reset”.
It was finally necessary to force load the IDT HD driver to recover the sound to its normal levels; that is, the driver was Uninstalled and allowed to reinstall at boot. (“Local” install from the Device Manager also works.)
Commentary:
I did not bother with a registry cleaning at this point - it may have made a difference, though it's unlikely since the driver needed to be completely reset by this time. I advocate registry cleaning! Bad things happen to good computers because of a dirty registry. Use your favorite or download CCleaner (free).
Try a Driver Update:
You can always check for Driver updates here – If the driver does update - you may be done with this part. Check the sound and proceed to "Enhancements".
At the Right-Click > Update Driver Software
Audio Driver “Uninstall”
Control Panel -> Device Manager -> Sound, video and game controllers
          Right-Click IDT High Definition Audio CODEC -> Uninstall
You have a choice at this point
If you do not have the means to replace your driver,
THEN do not delete your driver from the computer
OR - If you believe the driver is not working at all,
And / Or you have tried the standard Uninstall/self-install method previously without results,
AND You have the means to REINSTALL that driver from scratch*
Then you may delete the driver -
*Driver Installation From Scratch Requires the following:
You have your IDT HD driver on your computer as a sp*.exe file, for example, in Downloads
Reinstall with Boot:
Shut down the system
Reboot
The driver may install itself at login as the system scans for hardware changes
OR
Reinstall WITHOUT BOOT - Initiate the scan for hardware changes:
Right-Click on the IDT driver , > "Scan for Hardware Changes"
--> Check your sound at this point. It's possible that the driver has in reinstalled itself.
Manual Driver Installation - Comments:
There are a couple of paths used to get the IDT driver onto your system. You can download it from your HP Software and Driver website. You may have been given the path to your IDT driver at the HP ftp softpaq site. The package is downloaded as a sp*.exe file.   You may download the software as often as you need it. Make sure you have the package downloaded before you delete your driver.
Once you have downloaded that package onto your system, the original sp* file will stay intact. As long as you do not delete it, you can reuse it. Once you do install the driver onto your system, an installation directory is created in C:\SWSetup, named the same as the sp* file (without the .exe extension).
In C:\SWSetup\sp* are all the files necessary to reinstall your driver. If you install the software from the sp*.exe file in your Downloads folder, the new installation will ask you whether to overwrite the data in the SWSetup/sp* with the contents of the .exe package – do it. The reinstallation is just unwrapping and redistributing what’s in the .exe file into the same SWSetup/sp folder.
If the "Driver Store" is removed, that is, if the driver package is ever removed from C:\SWSetup, you can reinstall from the sp* file as long you you have it in your Downloads folder - it will recreate that SWSetup/sp* folder.
What about Versions?
Latest is Usually best. If you are concerned AND you think you may not be able to get another a copy of an older driver that is in C:\SWSetup\sp*, make a copy of the folder before uninstalling any driver or making any changes.
Installation from the Original sp* package
Find the sp* file on your system. It will be most likely be located in your “Downloads” folder.
Simple Driver Installation from the 'Saved' installation sp* file:
Close everything that isn’t needed, browsers, games, windows…
Right-Click on the installation package (the sp* file), Select 'Run as Administrator' and start the installation
Answer any questions…and follow the instructions
or...
Installation from the Device Manager
If the driver software is still on the system from a previous installation, it is located in C:\SWSetup
You can tell the Device Manager to access the package on the system:
Control Panel > icons > Device Manager > (Highlight) IDT High Definition Audio CODEC >
                      Right-Click > Update Driver Software > Browse my computer for driver software
                      Browse to C:\SWSetup\sp*
                      Be sure the “Include Subfolders” box is CHECKED
27-Nov-2011
Audio Services Check / Restart
This section is not strictly part of the "Enhancement" procedure. It has been included because it is necessary that these settings be correct so that the sound can function properly. If you are not having sound issues, skip this part...
Check system Services to make sure that your sound related services are running as they should.
Restart each service (except as noted): Right-Click > Restart
Control Panel -> icon -> Administrative Tools -> Services > bottom of page > Standard (optional - makes it easier to column sizes)
Sound services must be showing as
Status = Started
Startup Type = Automatic
Sound Services:
Audio Service
Multimedia Class Scheduler
Windows Audio
Windows Audio Endpoint Builder
Power (check only)
RPC (check only)
That’s it.
It’s a matter of tweaking the settings to get results. Do not forget that that Left/Right Speakers setting is turned off in Speakers Configure. It’s not a big deal (assuming this works), but it’s DIFFERENT and it needs to be kept track of.
I hope this helps your sound work better!
Kudos are Earned!
Kind Regards,
Dragon-Fur

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Panics Since Last Report:          1
Anonymous UUID:                    0FEDE34F-A36E-41ED-B143-B31AFF61812B
Wed Jun 8 09:59:42 2011
panic(cpu 0 caller 0x28f17d): "pmap_flush_tlbs() timeout: " "cpu(s) failing to respond to interrupts, pmap=0x5fd71d0 cpus_to_respond=0x2"@/SourceCache/xnu/xnu-1504.9.37/osfmk/i386/pmap.c:3561
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0x420fbfc8 : 0x2a081a (0x762d0a0 0x0 0x10 0x5341064)
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com.apple.driver.AirPort.Atheros21          424.14.5
com.apple.driver.ACPI_SMC_PlatformPlugin          4.5.0d5
com.apple.driver.AppleLPC          1.4.12
com.apple.driver.AppleBacklight          170.0.34
com.apple.filesystems.autofs          2.1.0
com.apple.driver.AppleIRController          303.8
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBTrackpad          200.3.2
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBTCKeyEventDriver          200.3.2
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBTCKeyboard          200.3.2
com.apple.iokit.SCSITaskUserClient          2.6.5
com.apple.driver.AppleIntelPIIXATA          2.5.1
com.apple.driver.AppleFWOHCI          4.7.1
com.apple.BootCache          31
com.apple.AppleFSCompression.AppleFSCompressionTypeZlib          1.0.0d1
com.apple.driver.AppleEFINVRAM          1.4.0
com.apple.iokit.IOAHCIBlockStorage          1.6.3
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBHub          4.1.7
com.apple.driver.AppleAHCIPort          2.1.5
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBEHCI          4.1.8
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBUHCI          4.1.5
com.apple.driver.AppleRTC          1.3.1
com.apple.driver.AppleHPET          1.5
com.apple.driver.AppleSmartBatteryManager          160.0.0
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIButtons          1.3.5
com.apple.driver.AppleSMBIOS          1.6
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIEC          1.3.5
com.apple.driver.AppleAPIC          1.4
com.apple.driver.AppleIntelCPUPowerManagementClient          105.13.0
com.apple.security.sandbox          1
com.apple.security.quarantine          0
com.apple.nke.applicationfirewall          2.1.11
com.apple.driver.AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement          105.13.0
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileReadCounterAction          17
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileTimestampAction          10
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileThreadInfoAction          14
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileRegisterStateAction          10
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileKEventAction          10
com.apple.driver.AppleProfileCallstackAction          20
com.apple.iokit.IOSurface          74.2
com.apple.iokit.IOBluetoothSerialManager          2.4.0f1
com.apple.iokit.IOSerialFamily          10.0.3
com.apple.driver.DspFuncLib          1.9.9f12
com.apple.iokit.IOAudioFamily          1.8.0fc1
com.apple.kext.OSvKernDSPLib          1.3
com.apple.iokit.IOFireWireIP          2.0.3
com.apple.iokit.AppleProfileFamily          41
com.apple.driver.AppleHDAController          1.9.9f12
com.apple.iokit.IOHDAFamily          1.9.9f12
com.apple.iokit.IO80211Family          314.1.1
com.apple.iokit.IONetworkingFamily          1.10
com.apple.driver.AppleSMC          3.1.0d3
com.apple.driver.IOPlatformPluginFamily          4.5.0d5
com.apple.iokit.IONDRVSupport          2.2
com.apple.iokit.IOGraphicsFamily          2.2
com.apple.driver.CSRUSBBluetoothHCIController          2.4.0f1
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBBluetoothHCIController          2.4.0f1
com.apple.iokit.IOBluetoothFamily          2.4.0f1
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBHIDDriver          4.1.5
com.apple.iokit.IOSCSIMultimediaCommandsDevice          2.6.5
com.apple.iokit.IOBDStorageFamily          1.6
com.apple.iokit.IODVDStorageFamily          1.6
com.apple.iokit.IOCDStorageFamily          1.6
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBMergeNub          4.1.8
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBComposite          3.9.0
com.apple.iokit.IOATAPIProtocolTransport          2.5.1
com.apple.iokit.IOSCSIArchitectureModelFamily          2.6.5
com.apple.iokit.IOATAFamily          2.5.1
com.apple.iokit.IOFireWireFamily          4.2.6
com.apple.driver.XsanFilter          402.1
com.apple.driver.AppleEFIRuntime          1.4.0
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBUserClient          4.1.5
com.apple.iokit.IOAHCIFamily          2.0.4
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBFamily          4.1.8
com.apple.iokit.IOHIDFamily          1.6.5
com.apple.iokit.IOSMBusFamily          1.1
com.apple.security.TMSafetyNet          6
com.apple.kext.AppleMatch          1.0.0d1
com.apple.driver.DiskImages          289
com.apple.iokit.IOStorageFamily          1.6.2
com.apple.driver.AppleACPIPlatform          1.3.5
com.apple.iokit.IOPCIFamily          2.6
com.apple.iokit.IOACPIFamily          1.3.0
Model: MacBook2,1, BootROM MB21.00A5.B07, 2 processors, Intel Core 2 Duo, 2.16 GHz, 4 GB, SMC 1.17f0
Graphics: Intel GMA 950, GMA 950, Built-In, spdisplays_integrated_vram
Memory Module: global_name
AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x168C, 0x87), Atheros 5416: 2.1.14.5
Bluetooth: Version 2.4.0f1, 2 service, 19 devices, 1 incoming serial ports
Network Service: AirPort, AirPort, en1
Serial ATA Device: FUJITSU MHW2120BH, 111.79 GB
Parallel ATA Device: MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-857E
USB Device: Built-in iSight, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8501, 0xfd400000
USB Device: Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x021a, 0x1d200000
USB Device: IR Receiver, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8240, 0x5d200000
USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8205, 0x7d100000

Definitely not. I've got a 2007 MacBook, and even with the extended warranty that coverage expired a year ago.
If you're concnered about cost, you could always call and ask. In my experience, the people at the Genius Bar (and Apple Store in general) are happy to provide assistance free of charge. If you have to replace a part, system, etc. you'll certainly need to cover that, but they should talk to you about costs and get your consent before doing any work on your machine.

How to remove unwanted audio using audio effects?

The audio effects in question: http://help.adobe.com/en_US/premierepro/cs/using/WS1c9bc5c2e465a58a91cf0b1038518aef7-7d80a .html
I've been meaning to learn how to do this for a while so I thought I'd get started.
I want to learn how to clean up my audio. I don't have very professional audio gear, I'm using a Rode videomic pro on a canon 60D so the quality isn't the best but it's ok for now. There is a lot I want to learn but right now there are 2 things on my mind:
1. I have a deadcat wind muff on my rode but still when the wind hits it I get this unwanted wind sound on my soundtrack. I know there has to be a way to remove or reduce this somehow using the audio effects.
2. Slight white noise over my audio. I know this is a result of recording directly from my camera but there has to be a way to reduce the white noise in order to get clearer audio. I've seen people recording right out of their camera and they have way better results than me.

I know there has to be a way to remove [wind noise]
There is. It's called ADR.
there has to be a way to reduce the white noise
There is. Better equipment.
Sorry but, I think you may be expecting to much of your post production tools.

What network audio sounds systems (e.g. Sonos) are recommended to work well with Macs?

I'm looking to replace my audiophile stereo system with a network audio system at home. Had NAD components with English Epos hand-made speakers that sounded great, but very immobile. I need speakers in each room of the house that can be networked, but which sound good. Can anyone recommend a good system? I've heard that Sonos doesn't play iTunes and doesn't sound very good anyway compared to more high-end wired systems.
Have a MacBook Pro and a MacBook Air with Time Capsule router and Airport Express unit. All music on iTunes.

1) How does Final Cut Pro 6 handle native HDV?
Just like FC5.... no worries
2) Is it beneficial to convert to Pro Res 422
Just like the Cineform codec you will benefit from an all i-frame codec when working with titles and graphics. I wouldn't recommend capturing native then converting to ProRez as this will take an extremely long time. Many have found editing native up until the compositing then dropping the sequence into a ProRez timeline to render. I prefer to uncompress the HDV with hardware into a capture card and transcode on capture in real time. Depending on the flavor of HDV and the equipment you use you can probably find a method for this. I shoot run & gun field work on to tape, then with the deck I can export via HDMI and together with another product from Convergent Design it is converted to HD-SDI in the a Kona LHe into FC. The benefit for me is the all digital decompression from 1440x1080 4:2:0 to a 1920x1080 4:2:2 uncompressed HD-SDI signal to use anyway I need to. As to which level of PR I can't comment but I have used the lower level and it looks great. As to raid setup I can recommend www.maxupgrades.com to help you add two - four more drives internally for unbelievable speed and expanded storage space you will want. The owner (Syed) will give you all the support you need to take advantage of the Mac Pro capabilities for a low cost high performance raid solution. Sounds like you have a great setup in mind, you may want to look into the Kona LHe capture card for capturing and monitoring and a Convergent Design product like the HD-Connect SI or MI depending on the deck you are using. If you need broadcast quality monitoring look into the Matrox MXO.
Good Luck
Z1

No audio since system upgrade

I have no audio out since doing the system upgrade.
Can anyone help?
I've tried taking the battery out and putting it back in.
Alex

Hi Alex,
A little more info on your Mac might help.Please go to "My Settings" on this page at the upper right ➦
On your  menu choose "About this Mac" and fill in : Version, Model, Processor and Memory.
Since you did say battery I'll assume a laptop. Have you tried a PRAM reset or SMC reset?
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1431?viewlocale=en_US
-mj

NO Audio in System Preferences

I accidentally deleted the audio icon under the system preferences and the audio plist under library settings. I was trying to get rid of an astound audio plugin i downloaded from mac.com that always pops up and tells me to buy the software even after the trial was done. What do I have to do to reinstall the my audio? Right now I cannot hear or cant use the built in mic because I have no audio options.
Thanks!!!

Hi Moor,
Try looking in HD/System/Library/PreferencePanes.
Is the Sound.prefPane still there?
Edit: If it is still there, double clicking on it should bring up that pane and perhaps re-situate it back in System Preferences.
Message was edited by: Samsara

IMac suddenly has no audio except system audio.

Very odd.
I have no audio for movies, music, youtube etc, but I have system audio sounds like mail, trash emptying and those kinds of things.
I have tried rebooting and double checking connections.
It's almost like some driver or file has disappeared.
I do have an up to date Time Machine, so if anyone could tell me what to restore I'll try that.
Thanks!
Korky

OK, I've now got the audio device back on Device Manager, by updating the BIOS - it detected the hardware change.
It's listed as Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus.
It finds the driver from Windows Update but won't install the driver, though. It fails before completing.
When I try and update the driver I get a similar error - saying that there is an I/O error.
Does anyone know how I fix this?
The tech support guy I spoke to suggested I go straight to doing a reinstall of Windows. Any softer/less painful options likely to work?

Unwanted Audio on Menu

On my menu (started from +Light Index+ template) I have 6 buttons and each has a video frame as an asset with motion turned off. Simulation reveals that the audio for button 4 plays and I don't want it to. It is not the only button that has audio, but the only one that plays during the menu.
The asset is set to the video, I've checked the tabs for each button to seek some unwanted setting, and I can't find anything that looks unwanted. I checked each Chapter marker to seek unwanted, nothing I can see.
Then I tried removing the asset from the button - sound stayed.
I quit program, reopened file - unwanted sound still heard in simulation. None of the other video audio is playing. All video runs quite nicely. Each button is an individual video clip and I want it to return to the menu after playing - all that works just great. Only the one audio clip is unwanted.
What did I do wrong? Thanks for any help.

Click somewhere on a blank part of the menu (where there are no buttons). Check the inspector in the audio section at the bottom. Remove any audio in that window. That's the only thing I could imagine.

Unwanted audio on system

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