UPS for mac

I have an imac.
I live in India and I need to buy a UPS for my mac.
Which one is reccomended??
Will the connection between the UPS and Mac be via USB??
If so where will the power cord provided by Apple be connected??

If you check your other post listed below, you will find helpful information by Jolly Giant on what UPS would work fine with your mac.
Personally, I have an APC UPS connected to my mac. It is an older model and has no USB connection which has worked fine for me. Please take note of the input voltages - as I am not sure what India uses - 220V or 110V.
Here is the other link to your other post:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2783519&tstart=0
Rick

Similar Messages

Best Back-up UPS for MAC Pro?

What is the best back-up battery system to provide UPS and to allow my computer to shut down before the battery runs out? UPS modesl with Parachute worked in the past but I've seen reviews that they are not compatible with Lion.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks.
JPB

Lion has some built in support. I switched from APC RS to CyberPower Sinewave, both 1500VA.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Compatible-1500VA-Tower/dp/B00429N 19W/
It works to protect modem and router, my RS1500 would cause interference and poor connection at best with high ping MS.
http://pondini.org has a Mac tip page
Sugar site is not up.
This had a ton of input
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?p=11677938

How do i get rid of the pop ups that are constantly popping up on my mac. Everytime i search for anything on google an ad for mac keeper comes up and every time i access Netflix another stream of ads pop up... Do i have a virus HELPPPPPP

How do i get rid of the pop ups that are constantly popping up on my mac. Everytime i search for anything on google an ad for mac keeper comes up and every time i access Netflix another stream of ads pop up... Do i have a virus HELPPPPPP

You may have installed the "VSearch" trojan, perhaps under a different name. Remove it as follows.
Malware is constantly changing to get around the defenses against it. The instructions in this comment are valid as of now, as far as I know. They won't necessarily be valid in the future. Anyone finding this comment a few days or more after it was posted should look for more recent discussions or start a new one.
Back up all data before proceeding.
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/LaunchAgents/com.vsearch.agent.plist
Right-click or control-click the line and select
          Services ▹ Reveal in Finder (or just Reveal)
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item named "com.vsearch.agent.plist" selected. Drag the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator login password.
Repeat with each of these lines:
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.daemon.plist
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.helper.plist
/Library/LaunchDaemons/Jack.plist
Restart the computer and empty the Trash. Then delete the following items in the same way:
/Library/Application Support/VSearch
/Library/PrivilegedHelperTools/Jack
/System/Library/Frameworks/VSearch.framework
~/Library/Internet Plug-Ins/ConduitNPAPIPlugin.plugin
Some of these items may be absent, in which case you'll get a message that the file can't be found. Skip that item and go on to the next one.
From the Safari menu bar, select
          Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Extensions
Uninstall any extensions you don't know you need, including any that have the word "Spigot," "Trovi," or "Conduit" in the description. If in doubt, uninstall all extensions. Do the equivalent for the Firefox and Chrome browsers, if you use either of those.
Reset the home page and default search engine in all the browsers, if it was changed.
This trojan is distributed on illegal websites that traffic in pirated content. If you, or anyone else who uses the computer, visit such sites and follow prompts to install software, you can expect much worse to happen in the future.
You may be wondering why you didn't get a warning from Gatekeeper about installing software from an unknown developer, as you should have. The reason is that this Internet criminal has a codesigning certificate issued by Apple, which causes Gatekeeper to give the installer a pass. Apple could revoke the certificate, but as of this writing, has not done so, even though it's aware of the problem. This failure of oversight has compromised both Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. You can't rely on Gatekeeper alone to protect you from harmful software.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
          Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.

My Safari browser is not working well. Junk pages keep poping in and key pages for me appear intoxicated by alien pop ups preventing me navigate that page. Updated last Safari version and problem prevailed. Tried downloading Safari for Mac OS X Mavericks.

My Safari browser is not working well. Junk pages keep popping up and key pages, for me, appear intoxicated by alien pop ups preventing me navigate that page.
I updated to latest Safari version (7.0.4) but the problem persists.
I tried downloading a new version of Safari for Mac OS X Mavericks but couldn't find it available.
Thanks for your help.

The pop ups are malware. It's not necessary to reinstall Safari.
Help here ..
The Safe Mac » Adware Removal Guide
The Safe Mac » Genieo
The Safe Mac » Mac Malware Guide
Just so you are aware, on a Mac running Mavericks, the only way to reinstal Safari to to restore OS X using OS X Recovery

UPS for Power Mac DualCore 2.3 ???

Hello All,
Can anyone recommend a good UPS for a Power Mac DualCore 2.3. I guess something like APC, etc...
Thanks!

Hi,
I have a Quad and it runs MUCH quieter than my previous original G5 Dual Processor. It uses the liquid cooling. However, both models make alot of noise when the DVD drive runs. Other than that, the Quad is very quiet.
I got an APC Back-UPS RS 1500VA Model# BR1500.
Overkill, but not a problem. I have the Quad, three Apple LCD's external drives, etc. The APC is silent; just when you test it (if you want to) by unplugging the power cord, so it runs on its battery, then a fan kicks in. But when plugged back into the wall, its back to totally silent. It weighs alot but once you set it up on the floor it's not an issue. It stands vertically and has a base. The software has a Mac version, but it doesn't do much. The OSX Tiger Energy Saver control Panel actually has a very good UPS section with alot of controls; the APC is connected to the Mac via a USB cord, and the control panel sees it to let you do the setup.
hope this helps...

I have a mac osx 10.411G4 powre pc and recently I down loaded excel for mac 2004 the problem that iam having is that the two other programs i downloaded one program it says unable to read the dictionary of the application of the extension because it is no

I have a mac osx 10.411 power pc and recently i downloaded excel for mac 2004 so that i could download some program that only would work if i have excel for mac but what happen was it went to script and said that unable to read the dictionary of the application of the extension because it is not scriptable and the second pop up said the document autorun,inf could not open script editor can not open files in script editor app can any one help me how do i get these program working thank you norro460

good afternoon Limnos i think i didnt give the right info I didnt download well in a way i did i bought a copy of microsoft excel for mac 2004 i loaded on to my mac then i went and down loaded some software that said i needed to have excel you see my mac is osx 10.4,11 power pc G4 and that is were i had the problem now the excell loaded allright but the the other programs did not the pop ups say it is not scriptable or can not read dictionary if you can help m,e iam not great with computers but i along

Clear space (old backups) WD My Passport for Mac HD

Hi,
I have purchased an external hard disk WD My Passport for Mac in order to backup my MacBook Air regularly (with time machine) and store films and pictures to save space from my mac.
I have just realised that I have several old backups from my MacBook air stored in the hard drive which are taking quite a lot of space. I have tried deleting the old backups manually (I only need the last one, why would I need a backup from January?), however, the folder disappears but the space doesn't clear up, I'm guessing it's not possible to fully delete back ups this way.
I have read that it's possible deleting those old backups connecting the hard drive to a Windows PC but I do not have one (or any of my family or friends for that matter), surely there has to be a simpler way to clear up space from the hard drive, right? I have read to save the backup and files on my computer and then delete everything through disk utility, but I don't have enough space to keep the old backup and all the media I have stored on my HD in my mac (or another HD) in order to delete everything. Besides, it just sounds stupid, I should be able to delete old back ups easily.
Thanks in advance!
Marta

Hi MadameMarta,
If you backed up your computer onto that external hard drive using Time Machine, then you will want to see the information in the following article to help you address this issue:
OS X Mavericks: Remove a backed-up item from your backup disk
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14221
You can move, copy, or delete the Backups.backupdb folder on your Time Machine backup disk as you would other folders. You can also delete folders within the Backups.backupdb folder. You can’t delete individual items inside the dated folders.
Important: Do not use Terminal or any app other than the Finder to move, copy, or remove items from the Backups.backupdb folder.
Thanks for using the Apple Support Communities!
Cheers,
Braden

Is snow lepoard 10.6.8 compatiable with aol desktop for mac?

I updated my aol desktop for mac to the 1.7.763 version and Im running snow leopard 10.6.8 on my imac.Im now haveing all kinds of issues useing the aol desktop for mac.Mail wont open and sometimes it does, web pages dont load, freeze ups in the mail part of aol. I s any one else haveing this issue? Some tec from aol told me its not comptiable. I could not find anywhere it says it isnt.I tried resetting Safari and it worked for awhile than started to act up again.I dont see why I should have to upgrade to mountain lion to have to be able to use the aol desktop.Im quite happy with snow leopard and Ive seen some bad reviews with mountain lion. Are there any fixes or Im wondering if apple is going to resolve this.Very frustrateing. Thanks for any ones time. Darlene
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Yes it will work. The iPad Air 2 is the latest and most up to date iPad and you can sync it with Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
Apple ID (required for some features)
Internet access9
Syncing with iTunes on a Mac or PC requires:
Mac: OS X v10.6.8 or later
PC: Windows 8; Windows 7; Windows Vista; or Windows XP Home or Professional with Service Pack 3 or later
iTunes (free download from www.itunes.com/download)
https://www.apple.com/ipad-air-2/specs/

Word 2011 for Mac Did Not Save My Work despite many save presses. Why?

I have been working on a document all week on word 2011 for Mac.
I initially saved the document and named it. It is still there in the directory folder I originally created it in.
I pressed the save icon every 20 minutes when working on my word document, saved it before bed, saved it when I woke up etc. Hundreds of save presses in over 100 hours of work in the past 10 days.
I also had auto recovery saving enabled to save every 10 minutes, this is still enabled.
Additionally I have time machine set up where it had been backing my whole drive after every few hours to a time capsule. I thought I had my backup protocols covered!
Today while editing and moving a text box within the word document, the whole word doc crashed with an error message saying “that it had encountered a problem and needed to close”.
I was expecting a recovered document to open back up as has occurred many times in the past when Word automatically reboots after a crash. However when the recovered document opened every piece of work had vanished except for the title page and a few words.
I thought no sweat I will go back and get a time machine copy as I had a weeks worth of back ups.
Upon going back to every back up from the last week, all my back up copy versions of the document in time machine is just the title page as well, even though I had been saving this all week and the documents was 50 pages long.
It appears that despite me hitting save, the document has not saved any of my work all week except for the first time I created the file; is this possible?
I cannot find a copy of the document in the Microsoft auto recovery, it does not reappear in it original form when I reopen Word.
I cannot find another copy in trash or on time capsule/time machine in the completed format that I had been saving it in.
I can find the file with the original file name, where I originally saved it but all the work has vanished even though the crash occurred when I was simply moving a text box to sit under a table. (IE I did not delete everything and then press save.
Things I noticed into the lead up the crash:
I tried to email to another email account last night as an attachment from word as a third back up and it would not send as an attachment, where this is usually an easy way to send a document as a safety back up.
I tried to “save as” and give it another name before the crash to experiment with different formatting and called it test test test test but it did not show up in the folder when I hit the “save as” button. Any subsequent search with SPOTLIGHT does not show any file by this name test test test test, even though I am 120% positive that I did save the file correctly in two different places on my computer. Hence again the file would not save even though I did all the normal steps of saving.
Why was the file not saving when I have been pushing the SAVE button? Was the file corrupted?
What has gone wrong and does anyone know where to look for the missing work? I have exhausted every option I know over the last few hours. Thanks for considering!
A very dejected Digger Boyle.
These links take you to MAC Forum where others appear to have had this problem but can’t find a solution to my issue.
https://discussions.apple.com/message/20358862#20358862
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3676037?start=0&tstart=0

Bootup holding CMD+r, or the Option/alt key to boot from the Restore partition & use Disk Utility from there to Repair the Disk, then Repair Permissions.
Any change?

BB Link not for Mac OS X 10.6.8

Dear all,
I am a mac user and never had problems with older BB devices like BB Bold. Now, buying the 10 I need the BB Link software.
Problem: My Mac is 3 years old and after running a software update, I am using Mac OS X 10.6.8 but the BB Link software doesn't work for MAC before 10.7.
Anybody knows how to fix this? Don't want to buy a new mac just to get all my contacts from the former desktop software (in use for the BB Bold).
Thanks from Palma de Mallorca

Hi,
As you may find below, the printer is no longer supported on Mac OS X 10.6:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01856359&tmp_track_link=ot_faqs/top_issues/en_u...
Although it is not officially supported you may try the 3rd party HPIJS print drivers.
Be sure to install any of the 3 required downloads prior following the printer setup instructions:
http://www.linuxfoundation.org/collaborate/workgroups/openprinting/macosx/hpijs
Shlomi
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos thumb up in the post.
If my post resolve your problem please mark it as an Accepted Solution

Which is the best antivirus and spyware for Mac?

Good morning,
Because of schoolwork and extracurricular activities, I am constantly sending and receiving e-mails and messages to and from PCs and other Apple devices, like IPads. Two years ago I purchased a 120,12GB MacBook Air and, until a few months ago, it went perfectly well.
I am not sure what happened, but lately, every time I go online, whatever I click -whether it is a random letter in a website, or a blank space in a page, anything- an advert appears or a new -unwanted- tab opens with publicity and such, the kind of additional tabs that open when you are watching movies online in a random website, but this time, it is happening with every website (even the Apple site) and almost constantly. I suspect it is something I downloaded or maybe something I received from an infected PC that I got a virus or problem from.
I tried using the MacKeeper software, but it is not working for me (?). Also I tried blocking pop-ups (I use Google Chrome), Java Script, automatic downloads, complements and everything I could when going online, but it has not gotten better over the last 9 months. My parents also recommended me a very good technician, who I personally know and has solved many of my previous problems, but he could not help me, in this situation.
For that reason, I have been considering either purchasing a good antivirus for my Mac or a new Mac and an antivirus for it, to prevent future problems like this one.
Either way, the question is the same,
Which is the best antivirus and spyware software for Mac?
Thank you so much for your attention.

Please get rid of MacKeeper, as it and most other such junk software will do more harm than good.
Please review the options below to determine which method is best to remove the Adware installed on your computer.
The Easy, safe, effective method:
http://www.adwaremedic.com/index.php
If you are comfortable doing manual file removals use the somewhat more difficult method:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203987
Also read the articles below to be more prepared for the next time there is an issue on your computer.
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-7471
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-8071
http://www.thesafemac.com/tech-support-scam-pop-ups/

HT3275 I've 1.85TB empty space on my time Machine, but it only backs up to the beginning of the previous month. it should have weekly back-ups for every month before that. Any ideas why it deletes stuff older than a month?

I've 1.85TB empty space on my Time Machine, but it only retains back-ups to the beginning of the previous month. I should be able to access weekly back-ups for every month before that until the disk is full. Any ideas why it deletes stuff older than a month?
Thanks, Rigby.

If you are using Ethernet to connect your Mac to the Time Capsule, are you allowing at least 2-3 minutes for Time Machine to fully load when you open the application to see your backups?
If you are using wireless to connect, you may need to allow 8-10 minutes or longer for everything to fully load, depending on the speed of your wireless connection.
If you see only white time "bars" on the timeline at the right of the screen, you are seeing temporary backups. Permanent backups are displayed with purple "bars".

Best storage set-ups for large Libraries?

Let's say "large Library" means 500 GB and/or 500,000 Images, and above.
What set-ups for storage, on a Mac maximized with RAM, will provide the best Aperture performance? The best bang-for-the-buck? Assume Thunderbolt is available. I don't know much about hardware: RAID, hybrid drives, etc.
What sensible considerations should one make for backup and data-redundancy?
How can I determine if the storage media is a bottleneck in the performance of Aperture on my system?
I run most libraries off of external USB-3 drives mounted (sometimes directly, often via powered USB-3 hubs) to my
MacBook Pro
Retina, 15-inch, Early 2013
Processor 2.7 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 1024 MB
System Drive APPLE SSD SD512E
This works well for small and medium-size Libraries, but for large Libraries, I'm spending costly time waiting for the system to catch up.
Some of that, demonstrably, comes when I run a three-monitor set-up. (But this provides some welcome advantages to me.)
Additionally, some back-ups and database repairs now take 12 hr. or longer.
Thanks.

Thanks William,
I kept my c. 2011 MPB and use it for making back-ups, which is done automatically after I leave for the day. My early-2013 MPB is so much faster (and has such a higher-resolution screen) that I don't use the older computer at all.
William Lloyd wrote:
Probably the fastest storage you can get is the La Cie "little big disk" which is a pair of 512 GB SSDs with a Thunderbolt 2 connection. The issue is, only the newest Mac Pro, and the newest retina MacBook Pros, have Thunderbolt 2 right now.
OWC tech explained to me that TBolt2 allows 2x the throughput, but that the drives have to be able to provide it. TBolt1 should provide 1,000 MB/s (do I have the units correct?), which is faster than most drives can provide. So the bottleneck, for me, isn't likely to be the port, but rather the drives. USB-3 can move 500 MB/s, which is still faster than -- afaict -- what my WD Passport drives can provide.
As I currently see it, I need faster throughput, and I need to either trim my large Libraries or find a way to manage them so that the regularly used files are more speedily available.
Regarding faster throughput, an external SSD comes to mind.
The problem, for me, is that the large Libraries are close to 1TB (with Previews). While I don't expect them to grow (the data acquisition phase is, for now, done), it would be short-sighted to assume they won't. That brings up the second consideration, which is how to best use spanned drives that contain an Aperture Library.
As I see it (with my limited understanding of hardware), what I really want is _a lot more RAM_, or, barring that, a huge SSD scratch disk. I have 200 GB free on my system drive, which is an Apple-supplied SSD, but it doesn't seen to be used as effectively as I'd like.
WD is now selling a new portable TBolt SSD, the "My Passport Pro", available with 4 GB of storage, and with a throughput of 230 MB/s. My current largest Library is on WB Passport drives, whose throughput is not faster than 480 Mb/s (Max) (I assume BITS, not BYTES, so 40 MB/s). That's a huge difference, while still only 1/4 of the speed possible with TBolt1, and 1/8 the throughput possible with TBolt2 (which my early-2013 MBP does not have, afaict).
These are the questions I am trying to answer:
- How can I measure my current throughput?
- Can I determine the bottleneck in my use of large Libraries in Aperture?
- Will new storage give me faster performance?
- Which storage will give me the best "bang-for-my-bucks"? (The La Cie "little big disk" seems to have it's bang limited by my computer, which greatly lowers its quotient value.)
In short: how can I get 900-1000 MB/s throughput on my machine, and is there any way to set up my Library so that, even though it is close to 1 TB, I can use a smaller very fast drive for the most read/written files?
--Kirby.

What size UPS for the 5K iMac?

Frequent power cuts here - only a few minutes long - need a UPS to allow me time to power down properly. What's the power requirements of the 5K iMac (looking to buy one before New Year) and need a suitable UPS for safety.

http://images.apple.com/environment/reports/docs/imac_27inch_oct2012.pdf
Almost any UPS will be suitable. I have the APC Back-UPS 750 which comfortably provides 35 to 40 minutes of operation for my 21" iMac plus its external backup disk drive, so it should meet your requirements.
You do not need to install any software. Just connect APC's supplied USB cable to your Mac. OS X already includes all the USB communication required for a UPS.
Consider Cyberpower UPSs also. I do not have one of theirs but they appear to be worthy competitors for APC. Don't be too concerned about "pure sine wave" products for computer equipment - it's unnecessary.

Is there any form of system cleanup for mac air

is there any form of system cleanup for mac air

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

UPS for mac

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