USB port burn-out?

I added a card a long time ago that has 4 more USB ports. All of the ports have been working fine, but then I tried plugging in a cheapo keyboard light into one of the ports. The light worked fine the first time, but then it wouldn't work again. I tried other devices in that port, but the port doesn't work with anything. So I tried the light in another port, and the same thing happened--at first the light worked, now it doesn't, and now nothing works in that port. The light is going in the trash, but what did I do to the ports? So far the other two ports on the card seem to work. Did I burn them out? Can I fix them?

Similar Messages

USB **** - Ports burning out devices!

I have an iMac G4 17" that I've owned for about 3 years.
In the last two weeks, I started experiencing this weird... THING... where the mouse would skip. Sometimes just a fraction of a second, the pointer would stop responding. At its worst times, it would literally be responding every other second (on/off/on/off) I thought it might have been a piece of conflicting software, because as I shut down programs, it seemed to go away.
Fast forward to this afternoon. It started happening hardcore, as it were. It would only work maybe 1 out of 5 seconds, then not at all. Plugged in another mouse, it was doing the same thing. So I swapped back to my Apple mouse, tried restarting, still doing the same thing. Then it happened. The keyboard stopped working as well. The mouse and keyboard, together, died. No lights on either. I tried plugging both into another computer, and they're completely dead. No functionality, no lights.
I conclude that my iMac USB port(s) burnt them out. I figure I have a problem with the ports, and I don't want to plug any other peripherals in for fear that they'll be killed as well.
Has anyone EVER seen anything like this before? Seriously. My iMac is totally useless right now. Completely. It's my main computer, and I figure given how much we spend on these things they should work for longer than 3 years.
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Jerrold

Hi Jerrold,
Before looking for a hardware issue with your iMac, you need to rule out a software/operating systems issue.
One way to do this is to "Archive and Install". This will give you a "fresh" operating system. Make sure you back up all your important suff first. Also, running a repair program such as Disk Warrior prior to Archive and Install won't hurt.If there are any drivers that are causing this, they will have been replaced.
While you are doing all this, the only peripherals you should have connected are a keyboard and a mouse (preferably both Apple if possible).
If you still have problems after this, then it's time to start looking closely at the hardware.
Cheers!
Karl

Blackberry 9860 usb port pulled out?

Does anyone else have a blackberry phone which the charger usb socket has just pulled out with the charge lead.
Can anyone tell me why this is not covered under warrenty as it is clearly a manufacurers fault.

never had a USB port pull out on any of my devices in past 4 years
maybe it was defective but usually they are soldered in really well
Click here to Backup the data on your BlackBerry Device! It's important, and FREE!
Click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved. To give thanks, click thumbs up
Click to search the Knowledge Base at BTSC and click to Read The Fabulous Manuals
BESAdmin's, please make a signature with your BES environment info.
SIM Free BlackBerry Unlocking FAQ
Follow me on Twitter @knottyrope
Want to thank me? Buy my KnottyRope App here
BES 12 and BES 5.0.4 with Exchange 2010 and SQL 2012 Hyper V

FireWire ports burned out -- what to do?

The FireWire ports on my 4 year-old iMac seem to have burned out. (Reboots with Mac phone support didn't help). So the problem now is that I can't download footage from my Sony handycam, which used to function beautifully with the FireWire. Mac customer service tells me that since the Firewire ports are connected to the logic board, I'd need a new logic board which would run about $800, and it seems crazy to put that much money into a nearly 5-year old computer. Grateful if anyone could suggest a workaround. (for example, would a firewire/USB hub work, or wouldn't that convert the Firewire signal?). My iMac is otherwise functioning fine and I can't buy a new computer just now, but I do need my videos...Thanks for your suggestions!

I think the only longterm solution that makes good sense is the replace the iMac with a new(er) Mac, at least after making sure the FW port is dead. Since you are in NY, you should be able to get to an Apple Store it some point. I suggest making a Genius Bar appointment & taking both the iMac & your camcorder with you. The genius should be able to verify that the port (& not the camcorder) is the problem & you should be able to test the camcorder with a Mac in the store. (Note that you will need a FW 400 to 800 cable for this. It may be worth discussing this in advance with the store personnel, especially if you have to travel any distance to the store.)
Even if you cannot afford a new Mac now, you will have verified the source of the problem & get a good idea of what 4+ years of hardware improvements would get you. This should help you decide what to spend money on now for workarounds vs. what to save your money for.

Firewire Ports burn out on 20" ACD

I have a 20" ACD and this now marks the second time in about a month that my firewire ports have just decided they didn't want to work anymore. Just three weeks after I got the monitor back from repair in it goes again, and Apple just to add insult to injury didn't send me a shipping label! I sure hope DHL has forms with them tomorrow...
Has anyone else had problems with their firewire ports on an ACD? The only firewire devices I have are a Griffin FireWave and a Canon Camcorder.

Ok I have to post the follow up story to this because it has a happy ending!
As stated in my earlier post the Firewire ports on the monitor had failed and I got a box from Apple w/o a shipping label. I called and they gave me all the info I needed and I was crossing my fingers that the DHL guy would have the paperwork...
The next day the DHL guy arrives .... WITH ANOTHER SHIPPING BOX!?!? Apple had sent out a new one with the correct shipping label so I just grabbed it and slapped it onto the other box and handed it back to the DHL guy, now I have a nice cinema display shipping box.
Apple repairs my monitor and I get it back in 2 days. Great turnaround except that when I get home I connect the display to the computer connect up my firewire devices and ... the firewire ports on the display are STILL broken! ARGH!
Now this is the THIRD time my ports have gone south on my display and I am really ****** off. Now here is why I think Apple is a top notch company that tries to make things right for their customers, I call Apple the next day and talk to tech support. They get an expert on the phone and the guy who apparently repaired my monitor the last time and they were positive the monitor left with working firewire. So they ask me what I was trying to use with it and I told them (A Griffin FireWave and a DV Camera) and they said that those were all good quality products and shouldn't be causing an issue with the display. So they sent me a BRAND NEW display! Now here's the cool part, I've had my display for less than 6 months but it was a refurbished unit. This new one isn't, it's brand new and so bright it almost hurts my eyes to look at it. The tech at Apple also suggested I buy a powered firewire hub (which I did) just in case the firewave or the camera was causing the ports to die.
Now would Dell, HP, or Gateway have replaced my monitor like that without a fight? Not likely, they would have insisted that one of my devices was burning out their display. They certainly wouldn't have replaced it with a whole new monitor like Apple did. Granted I did have AppleCare on the display but even without it I think Apple's support is (for the most part) better than ANYONE else out there period.

Usb ports going out

My usb ports keep randomly ejecting anything plugged into them. How do I replace/repair the usb ports in my Early 2008 MacBook Pro 15 inch? I have already gone to System Preferences and unchecked the option to sleep the hard disks when the unit goes to sleep.

As Dale says:
Permissions you can ignore on 10.5 and 10.6:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1448?viewlocale=en_US
Using 'should be -rw-r--r-- , they are lrw-r--r--' as an example, you will see the that the permissions are not changed, but the | indicates a different location. This is because an update to Leopard changed the location of a number of system components.

USB ports stop working after windows 7 installation via USB Boot camp

topend macbook pro retina 15 model purchased in Jan 2014 ,upto date.OS X 10.9.1
tried installing windows 7 ultimate through boot camp using USB. the installation is fine and smooth. windows 7 ultimate is properly installed but the point where you install the support software through USB all the USB ports die out just before logging in into windows. Also a red light on the headphone jack goes on. NO USB flash drive orUSB device is operational or in other words detected by the mac. Hence neither can I finish the support software installation which has all the necessary drivers nor connect to the internet . tried the SMC/NVRAM reset as instructed by the apple support but no change in the situation.
USB ports fully operational when boot in MAC os .
Another problem I face is when I try connect my iphone 4S to macbook pro via USB it keeps connecting and disconnecting and makes the charging sound repeatedly . The same iphone can connect to other laptops flawlessly.
please help .
Thanks

Since you just bought it, you may want to make a Genius Bar appointment and let them diagnose the issue. Use your warranty. Bring your phone and cable along too.

Help!! Ipod Video usb Port Not recognized !

Could anyone tell me what's going on with my ipod video 30g?
My friend borrowed my ipod for a file copy to his desktop, when I got it back and pluged it in the dock, the computer said: usb can't be recognized.
I am sure that the USB hub of my IBM is perfectly okay. And It is okay for the ipod to play music, photos and videos.
By the way, My friend's External Portable Hard drive also had the same problem after connecting to his desktop.
Have we got the Ipod usb port burned? Is there any way we can fix it?
Thank You!

Also see this:
Your Windows PC doesn't recognize IPod:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61711
It seems that many people are still getting the 'USB Device not Recognized' problem from time to time. Unfortunately there is no easy fix.
Firstly, it's recommended that you make sure every one of your motherboard drivers are completely up-to-date, but you probably already knew that.
In XP, after a USB port isn't used for a long while the USB driver built into the OS sets the OHCI controller to suspend. When you plug a device back in, it can sometimes fail to 'wake up' properly. This problem was supposedly fixed in SP1 but there is a related registry hack that may still be able to help.
Run regedt32.exe and navigate to;
HKEYLOCALMachine\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Usb
Create the Usb key if it doesn't already exist. Under this key, create a new DWORD value called DisableSelectiveSuspend and give it a value of 1. Then restart the PC.
A long shot perhaps, but I recall having similar problems with a USB hub built into my Microsoft keyboard and adding this key seemed to solve it. It wouldn't hurt in trying .
Alternatively, removing all entries relating to USB in Device Manager and all associated USB drivers will force XP into refreshing the USB driver stack.
Begin by unplugging all USB devices, then use Add/Remove Programs in Control Panel to uninstall any USB driver software. Next, boot up into safe mode and go to Device Manager. Once in device manager make sure 'Show hidden devices' is checked under the View menu. Uninstall all device entries in this order;
1. USB peripheral devices (printers etc.)
2. HID and/or Composite USB (Human Interface Devices) You're using PS/2 input devices so you may not have this entry.
3. USB Root Hub(s)
4. USB Host Controller(s) (Universal or Enhanced Host Controllers)
Then boot back into Windows (not safe mode) and it should populate the Root Hubs & Host controllers again. Proceed to plug your USB devices back in, starting with your powered hub. Be aware that most USB printers and scanners need to have their drivers installed first before you plug them in.
Hopefully some of this may be of help, let me know how you get on.

OT. Trouble with Cinema USB ports

Has anyone here had the USB ports go out on a Cinema display?
The ports are dead on my 20" monitor. It was erratic for several weeks, now dead. I always assumed these ports were just extensions of the USB line back to where it plugs into the Mac. Does anyone know if there is any USB electronics in the monitor itself?
Thanks,
Rich

The monitor still works. It's long out of warranty. I haven't the slightest idea how to open it up to check a circuit board. Special tool?
The only use I made of the monitor's ports was to drive a mechanical mouse. I hated the behavior of the Apple Bluetooth optical mouse that came with this Mac. Jerky and coarse.
Guess I'll just get a new Bluetooth mouse.

Can USB extension cable from nano burn out tower's USB port?

I recently plugged my 1GB nano into my Mac flatscreen's USB port and got a message that this port was too slow. I used it anyway but it did take a looong time to charge the nano. Normally I use the two ports in the screen to park a couple of dongles and since that port is slow for iPod purposes , I decided to buy an unpowered USB hub, 1 to 4 variety to run from the tower.
My G4 is in a closet with a not-so-accessible port on the back so I have a 6 foot extender cable coming from the tower which connects to the hub and from there I plug in my camera and keyboard - but so far not the nano. The guy at the store where I got the hub told me that an iPod nano recieving power from this settup might burn out the USB port in the back of my G4. So I haven't tested that! Anyone know if this is true or if it's just uniformed blather from a drugstore computer sales tech?

The "too slow" message you received has nothing to do with how long it takes to charge the Nano, it is telling you it will take longer to sync the Nano. If the port on the screen charged your Nano it didn't take any longer than any other port will.
A USB extension cable will not burn out the USB port on your computer.

Is it possible for an external device to burn out the USB port?

I think the available current of the USB port is 500 mA. If a USB device can work with a current of 500mA ~ 600mA, is it possible for it to burn out the USB port with 600mA current (larger than the safe 500mA) when connected? Or the port can never provide a current larger than 500mA?
Thank you.
P.S. The USB device I worry about is a pair of USB warm slipper (to be worn on feet in cold winter). Its label reads "5V / 2.5W", which should be safe. But I once connected it and a mouse to a USB hub, then to a single MBP USB port, and the mouse stopped working in a few seconds, and came back normal only after I switched it to another port. Now the slipper is connected to a port by itself, but I am just afraid that the USB slipper can go malfunctioning all of a sudden and drain a lot of current to burn the USB port.

...But I once connected it and a mouse to a USB hub, then to a single MBP USB port, and the mouse stopped working in a few seconds, and came back normal only after I switched it to another port....
Likely the hub is only barely able to handle the 500mA requirement. Many powered USB hubs have "cheap" power adapters and can't handle any high surge situations. Many devices like heating elements and motors have "surge currents" where the initial powering on of the device has a much larger current flow than during normal usage. Think of it like riding a bicycle. You have to push hard on the pedals to start off, but it's easier to pedal after the bike is moving.
...Now the slipper is connected to a port by itself...
If you mean the device is plugged into the Mac's USB port, then you should know that all Macs for the past few years provide more than the 500mA minimum for USB. Some other computers also provide higher power. But most USB hubs I've seen were limited to 500mA.
If you are plugged into the hub, not the Mac, then the power adapter for your hub may be barely adequate or possibly even defective.
...but I am just afraid that the USB slipper can go malfunctioning all of a sudden and drain a lot of current to burn the USB port.
IMHO, I would stop using the heater with any computer USB port. There is always the possibility that eventually something could short out in the heating element and cause a catestrophic surge through the USB port. The electronics in computers are quite delicate and I'd be paranoid about the device damaging my computer. (BTW, I have an electrical engineering background so I'm paranoid about power issues all the time anyway. ) Even if the heater is plugged into a hub, the surge current could damage the other devices plugged into the hub. While not as catastrophic as a dead computer, I'd still be irked to have to replace my mouse, digital camera, printer, webcam, etc.
Instead, I recommend plugging the heater into it's own "power adapter." One of those that give a USB port to charge a cellphone or whatever. Plug the power adapter into a power strip. Place the power strip in the floor next to the slippers. That way you can conviniently turn the strip on and off with your toes as you're putting on your slippers.

USB Ports on 3 month old Satellite C655-S5049 do not work-even after Recovery to "Out-of-Box" state

Hello - Hoping someone can help with another suggestion- it doesn't look good.
Both USB ports on my wife's 3 month old Satellite C655-S5049 are non-functional with any USB device. Flash drives, wireless mouse, and external hard drive (powered) that all work on all of my other computers, do not work in either of this laptop's USB ports.
This problem seems to have developed gradually, and became noticeable previously as non-responsiveness in the wireless mouse, which gradually became a concern, with the computer appearing to freeze or lock-up - probably because of the number of times the mouse was clicked on shortcuts and executables before something happened.
The ports are now completely "dead"- no recognition of anything inserted once the computer is up and running.
There appears to be a thermal component involved, since I was able to get the devices recognized and working for up to a minute when booting the computer with the devices in the ports after it had been off for several hours after I did the default state recovery. The flash drive and mouse were recognized, drivers loaded message, but they then went to "unplugged" before I could get the cursor moving. I was able to access the flash drive, since I did it as soon as the driver loaded, but then it disappeared ("un-plugged" itself in the driver loaded message box). I can also get them recognized from this COLD boot state when I immediately plug them in once Windows 7 (64) loads, but they quickly disappear. If I wait a few minutes before re-booting, they flash during the Windows boot, but drop-out before it completes. If I wait 3-4 hours to re-boot, they flash (are recognized) for about a minute (Windows completely loads), but then they drop out.
I tried all of the suggestions on this board (and others) before doing a Recovery to Factory Default state. I have tried it with the original version 1.20 Bios, and with the version 1.50 Bios update. All driver updates have been downloaded and installed. The laptop does occasionally lock-up at the Toshiba screen during boot, and is verrrry slow in some operations (2 hours to do the recovery discs). The only other noticeable problem (at this time) is an occasional drop-out of wireless (Atheros AR9285) connectivity, which I have been blaming on the router since it is sporadic and infrequent (not consistent with the thermal argument). These problems are all after the Factory Default State recovery operation, so my assumption is that they are hardware based.
Any suggestions for a solution? This is a standard spec Satellite C655-S5049 that I was considering adding another 2GB memory to, but now I am unsure of its' future. A laptop cooler that runs from a USB port seems counter-productive.
I am technically capable, so you can be much briefer in your response than I have been in trying to fully detail the problems. This isn't the NVidia chip, but it does bring back memories of laptops past.
Thanks for any help,
G

I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE SAME MODEL. I GOT THE SERVICE
MANUAL AND I'M THINKING TO OPEN IT AND SEE IF THERE'S SOME PHYSICAL BAD CONNECTION
INSIDE. BUT LIKE YOU SAID. IT'S ONLY THREE MONTHS OLD.!!! I DON'T WANT TO RUIN THE WARRANTEE.
BUT THIS IS VERY FRUSTATING. I WANDER IF TOSHIBA DOES THIS ON PURPUSE.!!! KEEP IN TOUCH AND
IF YOU NEED THE SERVICE MANUAL CONTACT ME AT [email protected]
THANK YOU.!!!!

I have a 2013 Buick Enclave with Pandora icon on the screen. I was told that to connect my iphone 5 with USB port and that worked. But as soon as I disconnected, Pandora went out on screen. Only works plugged in now. Should work without USB connected.

I have a 2013 Buick Enclave with Pandora and Stitcher on the nav screen. With my Samsung S3, Pandora automatically lit up and worked. with new iphone5, I was told I need to connect USB port to car and phone and start Pandora. That worked and the icon on screen lit up. but as soon as I removed the USB cord, Pandora and Stitcher greyed out and stopped working. I know it's supposed to work on the car's nav screen once I hardwire it (at least that's what I was told), but as soon as I disconnect, they stop working through the car. How can I install Pandora and Stitcher on my car WITHOUT having the usb cord attached? the idea is to be able to use the car's touch screen to control Pandora, but with the phone plugged into the USB port, I can only use the phone to control Pandora, which of course is dangerous when driving! And it worked correctly with the samsung, so I have to believe it can work with the iphone 5! Right? Thanks.

You cannot install the apps on the car.
The cars head unit is merely acting as an interface to the apps on the device.
If you want to use those apps in the car, plug the device in and leave it plugged in.

USB ports are not working and I can't figure out what to do!

My laptop is a HP Pavilion dv4-1225dx Entertainment Notebook. I've had it for almost three years now. It is running Windows Vista, the same it came with. The problem has only just recently started or was just discovered.
My problem is that the two USB ports in the side do nothing when something is plugged into them. The metal part of the USB devices gets hot but no lights come on the flashdrive and the camera doesn't act like it is plugged in at all. I've looked through Device Manager and it says they are working fine and the correct driver is installed already. There is also no older driver to rollback to. I've tried deleting them, disabling them, and everything that has been suggested online. I even flashed my BIOS from F.33 to F.55, whatever that means, and still nothing.
Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I am a filmmaker and desperatley need my USB ports. Any help would be appreciated greatly

USB ports must be enabled in order for them to work. If you disabled them it is possible that they still are disabled.
If that is the case, have you tried any of these? http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00820529&tmp_task=solveCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc...
By the way, even though Windows XP troubleshooting may not seem to apply to your situation, sometimes these sorts of errors and problems still happen in Windows Vista. It is rarer but it still happens. One Windows XP based solution can be found here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00035365&tmp_task=solveCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc...
Also, take a look at power management settings for your USB hub and/or USB ports. If they are enabled, try going to Computer Management, Device Manager, and then right click on the USB ports and select Properties. Following this, click the Power Management tab and uncheck the option "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" and click OK and exit out of Device Manager.
Odd as it seems, sometimes a restart is necessary for this to work completely.
Also, if you have tried removing the USB Hub drivers according to HP methods, you need to make sure that nothing is plugged into the Ports when you remove them. Often, a restart still is necessary even if some techs do not think to instruct you to do so. After a restart, allow the drivers to reinstall--all of them. Sometimes you still will need to restart your computer again afterward. This sometimes takes a few minutes. But, you must in any case make sure that nothing is plugged into the ports.
You may also want to check to see if your computer has specific drivers for your USB ports rather than the generic ones. If so, running the option for restoring drivers in HP Application Recovery will fix this. If they are there you will see the USB drivers listed.
On rare occasion, there is a problem with a device further down the tree than the USB ports and/or USB hubs themselves. These problems are most often fixed by removing the device that controls the USB Hub, such as the devices attached to the PCI Bus and connected to the USB. You will see where these are connected by changing the view to "Devices by Connection" rather than the "Devices by Type" option.
Let me know your status, please, after you have tried these options. If you have already tried them all out, let me know that, too and we can see if there is another option for you to try.

I've bought a new USB flash memory. I plugged it in the USB port then a message come out: Because a USB device was drawing too much power from your computer, one or more of your USB devices have been disabled.... Please help...

I don't know what to do. I plugged that USB in both ports but the same message came out. I charged my laptop and the same thing happened again. The surprising thing is that I tried plugging the USB in my cousins laptop (Macbook Pro) and it worked!!! but not with mine. The USB flash memory made by PNY. Please help...

There are two types of USB 2 devices - low power which consume 100 milliamperes or less from the USB bus and high power which consume up to 500 milliamperes. Your flash drive is probably a high power device and is overloading the USB bus of your computer. (Some notebooks can support only low power USB devices.)
I know that my MBP's USB ports support high power devices but I've come across reports that not all high power devices will work on the MBA and that might be the case for your flash drive. My guess is it has a large capacity? 32GB or more?

USB port burn-out?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for