USB power periodically cutting out

Recently I've been lossing power to usb for a second or two. iTunes will cut out via Soundsticks and mouse will freeze. There's no rhymn or reason to it yet, just randomly, except that when opening an application it inevitably happens.
I've read the discussions about people lossing usb power speratically, but I haven't seen any solutions. I've reset the PRAM and the problem still persists.
any ideas?

Hello! Normally a power interruption on a usb port will display a message that it has been disconnected from the system because of an overload condition such as a printer drawing too much power or too many non-powered devices attached such as a usb powered hard drive or a hub that's become faulty or a powered hub that has had it's power supply accidently disconnected or a hub that has failed. Tom

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Macbook help - power keeps cutting out for no reason - please help

my macbook will sometimes just randomly turn off even though i have full power or enough power to run.
if i try to turn it back on it will just go off again unless i let it 'rest' for a bit, maybe five minutes.
then it will just work again and i'll eventually enounter this problem again from an hour to two days later
at the moment it's annoying as the worst that has happened is my work not being saved (word recovers the document anyway) and this happening multiple times when i was trying to import a cd.
although just annoying, i fear it could lead to something worst.
please help

Since you are having random shutdowns, and you mention that you have to wait awhile to turn it back on, I suspect that the computer is overheating and shutting itself off. The computer is then waiting until it cools down enough to allow you to turn it back on.
This was a fairly common issue when the macbooks were first released. Apple released a firmware update that resolves this. The firmware update improves the computers internal monitoring system so that the fans kick on earlier and prevent your computer from getting to the point where it shuts down due to thermal issues.
As previous posters have already suggested, go to the apple icon in the upper left hand corner of your screen and select "software update." Install any firmware updates that appear. Please note that the firmware update may not appear in this list of updates if your operating system is not 10.4.6 or higher.

Sudden Power Cut Out on iMac G5

Hello team,
My iMac G5 (1st gen, 20") just did something odd -- while I was checking my e-mail, its power just cut out suddenly and the machine went dark. I was able to restart it just fine, but obviously something's amiss here. I checked to make sure the power strip I've got it plugged into wasn't loose (it wasn't) and that all the other connections were fine (they were), and now I'm turning to you for suggestions/ideas. This has happened once before a while back, but I didn't worry about it at first because that was the only time. However, now that it's done the exact same thing again, I figure it's time to do a bit of investigating. Might this be a symptom of the power issues that some first generation iMac G5s have experienced? Or perhaps something else? Thanks very much in advance for your input on this!
Electronically yours,
Erik
20" iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.3.8)

Yep, just one of the tricks the first generation iMac G5s like to pull. Mine did same thing before I finally had it replaced a year , and 5 major repairs after I got it. What was failing on mine when it turned itself off randomly was the Motherboard having been fried from extreme heat. ( So Applecare folks told me.)
The main prob with both the Rev A and B iMac G5s was and is that they generate more heat than they can dissapate. Its been corrected on Rev C and Intel iMacs since they COMPLETELY redid the internal placement of everything on them and even added a much needed vent right behind where the hard drive sits(Behind the arm) and next to where the fans can draw in more cool air from outside the machine. Anyway, what youre experiencing unfortuneatly isnt isolated for most of us ex or current Rev A iMac G5 owners. Very common and if youre able to , get out from under the computer if you can. They are highly flawed imo.The fact that they redid it so much tells me anyway that it was flawed. The Rev Cs are perfect and everything the A and Bs were not. Cool running, stable, quiet, and add all the extras like HD space, Vram, extra and faster ram, and the iSight, for me, made all the agrivated trips to the Apple store worth it. Even though it was and is over 50 miles from my home.
Good luck, let us know what you find out is happening. And seriously, do yourself a favour, if you can have it replaced.

Satellite A100-259 power cuts out

Hi,
I've had my A100-259 for 3 and half years, had no problems (apart from I knackered the battery a couple of years ago and have been using mains power since).
I switch it on get so far, and then the power just cuts out, and the LED lights go out as though there's no power running to it.
I unplug and leave it for a while, and then when I connect power to it, the lights come on and I can switch it on, but then it loses power again. I've removed the battery and tried, but still happens.
Any ideas/ solutions greatly appreciated : )

Hi
Well, for me it sounds like that its a hardware problem, Maybe the mainboard or something else.
Just one question: You are using original Toshiba AC/DC adaptor or another one?
In your case I would contact an authorized service provider. The technicians should check your notebook and tell you what is causing this. I think this would be the easiest way to repair the notebook.
Bye

ITunes Cuts Out Periodically When Using Airport Express

I have a new Airport Express (with current software) hooked up to my Bose Home Theater system. I am streaming iTunes the Stereo but it periodically cuts out. Apple Help had me reset my Extreme and 2x Expresses to Channel 6. Still cuts out periodically, but much less than before. Anyone else seen this and can offer what to do?
Thanks,

i just bought a brand new airport express from apple and hooked it up to my brand new speakers. it also started periodically cutting out. so i followed apple's advice and tried different channels on my router. i went from 1 to 11 and still had the same problem.
then i tried decreasing my security down to WEP 40-bit. still had the same problem.
then i tried moving the airport to the middle of the room, about 6 feet away from both router and macbook pro. still the same problem. btw - i was using an optical cable from airport to speakers.
then i removed all security from my belkin router - and it worked. in the end i sent it back to apple for a refund. there's no way i can have my router running without security.

Why is my HDMI-connected display cutting out periodically?

I have a Mac Mini hooked up to a 40" Phillips LCD LED 1080p television using an HDMI cable. This setup worked awesome for about six months, but it has started giving me problems this week. I never really used the television for anything besides as a display for the Mini until last week, when I plugged in a couple of different older video game consoles (N64 and a PS2) into the YPbPr ports and switched sources on the T.V. Not sure if this is related or not, but it seems like that's when I started having these probelms. From what I've read about HDMI handshaking, it makes sense that switching devices can mess with it?
Anyway, the visible problem is that periodically, the video AND audio will cut out and the display goes blue. Audio usually comes back a little before video does, and sometimes the Mini will try to play the audio in the interim.
It happens more often when I'm playing videos on Netflix, YouTube, etc., but it has happened when I'm just sitting on the Desktop, not doing a thing. It will sometimes not do it for up to an hour, and then it'll start doing it every five minutes so that you can't even watch video.
I've tried two different HDMI ports. Don't have another cable to try, but would rather not invest the money in a new, good one if that's not the problem. Any ideas?

Something to check first.
The Mac (all Macs) has an energy-save setting which will automatically power down the video connection if the Mac detects you have not used the mouse or keyboard for a defined period. This might be the cause. Similarly many TVs also have an energy saver setting, in the case of the TV it might trigger if you have not changed channel for a number of hours, or it might have an IR sensor to try and detect the heat of a human body. If it does not detect a person 'watching' it, it would then turn off.
In your case the former sounds more likely. Open System Preferences, then click on Energy-Saver and check the settings.
Note: If the Mac does disable the video output due to this setting, it will almost certainly result in sound being switched back to the built-in speaker instead of going via the HDMI.

My laptops QWERTY row of keys does not work for long periods at random intervals and only after pushing all the buttons on the row does it eventually turn back on and then will still cut out every now and again, anyone know how to solve this?

My laptops QWERTY row of keys does not work for long periods at random intervals and only after pushing all the buttons on the row does it eventually turn back on and then will still cut out every now and again, anyone know how to solve this? If not is there any way to actually get a genuis appointment lol to get one of them to have a look at the hardware on the keyboard?

Apple Support (formerly ExpressLane):
https://getsupport.apple.com/GetproductgroupList.do
https://getsupport.apple.com/GetSASO?SG=SG001&locale=en_US

Is there an automated way to cut out periods of no-activity from footage?

I've got a screen-cap from a training session that I did, and the first thing I want to do is cut out all the footage in which there is no action at all for more than 5 seconds- basically any time that I stopped showing something on-screen and switched to explaining things and making gestures etc. since it was an in-person training session. The total training was about 3 hours long, so doing it by hand is not looking fun.
I haven't found any tools yet to do this- someone suggested the Magnum edit detector for After Effects, but that I don't think is going to pick up on the different periods of no motion vs. motion, just when I change screens between apps and things like that.
Is there anything out there I should be looking at tools-wise?

There is another thread (different forum) where the poster wants to automatically cut any part of the training video when he is not speaking (cut all silence). I understand what he is getting at, but that seems to assume that he is NEVER doing any mouse activity unless he is talking. Just don't see how this will suit every situation, as nothing beats the human interaction of editing. I've seen enough of the "automated" photo montages that cut off people's heads when moving the image, or zooming in on body parts other than the face...just weird results a lot of the time.
I've done several training videos and certainly understand the desire to "tighten things up" as much as possible. What works quickly for me in Premiere is "Mark In, Mark Out, Extract". Use the mouse or keyboard shortcut keys. Extract removes the selected area and closes the gap. Don't know what would be much quicker other than the requested robotic app. I know that some software can identify "scene changes", but that is a drastic change in content versus "no activity" on the screen. With screen captures, there is so little activity to begin with, could be just a little mouse pointer moving a bit.
Anyway, when an app can edit the video for us, video editors will be out of business ;-)
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

USB Microphone cuts out all sound

I'm using Logic Express 8, with an MXL condenser microphone. At first everything worked fine. I could hear all the audio.
But now, when I plug in the microphone, it cuts off all sound. The computer is receiving an audio signal. Under preferences, USB Audio Codec is chosen.
I created an aggregate devise, but that didn't work. I chose the new aggregate devise in audio preferences. No luck.
Does anyone have a solution?
Thanks,
Michael

I do not have your exact computer model or sound driver, but I can tell you what I did that fixed my microphone issues almost instantly for my G780!
My microphone also cut out during voip calls (such as Skype, G+ hangouts, etc) but my audio when using any type of recording software was fine!
So apparently for my laptop, there was a bit of additional software that was installed called Smart Audio which is also by Coaxant.
If you have this program, this is probably what is causing all the sporadic quality changes.
What I did:
-Open Smart Audio (it's not actually an installed program, it is a setting so I just searched for it in the start menu)
-Go over to the VOIP tab on the bottom, and click on Voice Over IP to DISABLE the features.
-The icon for the setting should now be disabled, along with microphone noise reduction and acoustic echo cancellation.
These settings in smart audio were the ones making my microphone sound so horrible. As soon as I disabled it, people on the other side of the chat immediately noticed a dramatic increase in overall quality!
Hope this helps!
-Clark

Re: Creative Gigaworks T3 Power Cutting Out AS WELL!!!!!

This is a response to the same fault on the gigaworks T3 as mentioned in this post here : http://forums.creative.com/t5/Speaker-Systems/Creative-Gigaworks-5--G550W-Power-Cutting-Out/td-p/430593?
hi! I am from New Zealand. I?just purchased?a set of Creative Gigaworks T3 for just DAY(the first day)! and I am encounter the same kind of problem mentioned in this post/topic . it Shuts off by itself or (power cutting out) . most probably would be the overheating cut off problem as well , all symptoms are the same as described this this post!
I cannot believe this is happening to the whole line of Gigaworks subwoofered speaker systems. I also have the Gigaworks T40 SII and are working mint. but seems like the subwoofered ones are the ones with this overheating cut off problem!!!!!
Man I trusted Creative for its quality of its products as I have always been Ultra impressed for the Creative Cambridge FPS2000 which I had own for the last 10 years until the remote switch became faulty 2 years ago (volume fluctuates), but thats acceptable for so many years of use!! they were the best ones and love them!?
BUT? I dunno about these current line of Gigaworks systems. they all seem to be faulty with this problem
do you think I should get a replacement or just get a refund IF I CAN.
a replacement might do the same thing?
cheers !!
ken

here is an update of what happened to my faulty Creative Gigaworks T3 system.
I returned it the next day the shop opened back from new years which is the Jan 4th, 2010 . I told them about the problem I was having and also printed out the dicussion from this forum on the Gigaworks G550W http://forums.creative.com/t5/Speaker-Systems/Creative-Gigaworks-5--G550W-Power-Cutting-Out/td-p/430593 . which I told them was the very same problems as discussed here and seems to be like a common fault or design problem of the gigaworks (subwoofered) series from creative!!
I was treated in a very bad and unhelpful manner from the store. and straight up. there is no refund!. and they seem to think I was lying about all this and making it up trying to get a refund ?!!
wtf I came all the way back (50km retrurn) waste my valueable time waste gas to muck about na I don't think so!? but to them I was a lier which had nothing better to do. " they say , you say its faulty, but We don't know" and they said , if the supplier say can refund then we will definitly refund... or even we test it out have problem, the supplier will have to test it again to confirm if there is a problem then to see if they will repair or replace. of course I wanted a refund as this a design problem and will happen again shortly!!! I had no choice but to leave it there , so I left it there on the 4th. anyway I was treated the worse I've ever been treated for any purchase at a store
week later. TODAY the 12th Jan. I received a txt message saying " this is xp computer warehouse, just 2 let u know ur creative speakers has been returned from the distributor as no fault to be found, n its ready 4 pick up "
of course there was no fault if it was tested for 5 minutes!!!!!!!!!!!! its the overheating problem after being used for over 2 hours or so. but I'm sure they know about this hard,. how can they not know if its happening all the time. they just can't be bothered, they would of just said "ah f--- it!!"
So i'm going back on sunday 24th Jan to get a refund as they have failed to meet the Repair/Replace or refund policy, if nothing works out then the last thing (which I really do not wish to do) it to Disputes Tribunal at the courts , a bloody hassle and a waste of f----- time! seriously. if creative would just sort it out or even open and fix it I'd be a really happy customer!
but for things that are going now , its definitly not right!
think about it before buying your Creative Gigaworks T3, just sharing my personal experience here , and it ain't good!
I'll keep you updated on sundays results.
what a pain

Audio cutting out periodically

Just what the subject says. About a week ago I would unplug my external speakers from my Powerbook and the sound would not come out of the internal speakers. This could easily be fixed by plugging the headphone/speaker jack back in, and then taking it back out. The sound would come back.
Now the sound is cutting out periodically with and without headphones or speakers plugged in. This seems to happen randomly, whether I've been playing music or just using the computer without running any audio.
Any thoughts? I am thinking it's hardware problem, either the headphone jack itself or a short on the sound card. It's my understanding that the 'sound card' is on the motherboard and not easily replaceable, but we'll go there if we need to. Are there any easy fixes, or a way to test it to see what's wrong?
Message was edited by: gsgeorge
Message was edited by: gsgeorge

Hi gsgeorge
sounds a bit like a bad contact of the earphones-jack. I'd try to apply a tiny bit of electronic contact spray onto a plug, insert it into the socket and move it gently, if your lucky it might help.
Regards P

[Other 865 Series] 865GM2-LS - power cuts out immediately after turning on.

I wonder if anyone could help me, as I am a bit out of ideas. I've done a search on this forum, and though there are a few people similar problems, there does not seem to be an answer.
I have basically tried to build a PC from scratch for the first time (the specs are below) I'm pretty sure it is all connected up correctly, yet when I turn it on, the lights come on and the fan turns for a fraction of a second and then the power cuts out.
If I then attempt to turn it on again I get no power at all. If I disconnect/reconnect the power supply from the motherboard and try again I get the lights and fan again for a split second.
I have checked and double check the connections, reset the CMOS by moving the jumper as in the manual, and I am pretty much out of ideas. These are completely new components, no s/w on the HD at all etc. I've checked the pins for the ATX 20-Pin and ATX 12V and they seem OK. One thing I can think of is there is a power connecter next to the one for the CPU fan for the system fan. I do not have this connected to anything as the fan that comes with the case connects directly to the PSU. Do I need a system fan as well or is this an either or thing?
Motherboard:
P4 HT+ FSB800+M.ATX +Graphics+DualDDR400+LAN+S.ATA
MSI P/N:865GM2-LS
Processor:
Pentium 4 3.2GHz 478P 800MHz 0.09u 1Mb Cache
(Part No:BX80546PG3200E)
Memory:
Aries 1GB PC3200 DDR 400MHz DIMM Memory
(Part No: 1GBPC3200DDR)
Hard Drive:
DiamondMax 200GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache IDE HDD Maxtor
(Part No:6L200P0 )
Floppy:
Sony Internal FDD
No optical drives installed yet.
Case:
Midi Tower ATX PC Case & 350W PSU (Clear Side)
Aries P/N:ATX-9980
Include PSU (specs below)
MODEL: ATX-400
Max Output = 400W
Input
115VAC
10A Max
60Hz
230VAC
5A Max
50Hz
Output
+12V 18A max
+5V 40A max
+3.3V 28A max
-5V 0.5A max
-12V 0.5A max
+12V 18A max
+5V/SB 2.0A max

Quote from: blazing storm on 25-June-05, 18:26:54
My fault, wasn't thinking. I meant to type "try running the motherboard outside of the case".
You need to try a better PSU than your current one so the one from your old computer may be no good. Post its +3.3V +5V +12V rail amp values please.
Also try disconnecting all but the essential hardware need to run so unplug hard drive, floppy etc. The problem looks like the power supply to me so buy or borrow a decent one with 20-24A minimum on the +12V rail. If you need help finding a power supply just ask.
That would be very much appreciated, I've had a look around the usual web suppliers and they don't seem to want to provide that kind of information for their PSUs.
The old PSU doesn't seem to have the info printed on it, but it is quite old, so I suppose it's unlikely it's going to be much better than the new one.
Will try running it outside from the case. I take it this is in case the thing I have mounted it to is shorting it? If this is the case, is there a trick to ensuring against this?
Quote from: Blazer on 25-June-05, 10:56:22
make sure no OC settings are used and set DDR voltage to 2.60-2.70 to get sys stable and work down as needed.
How do I do this? Pretty sure I have no OC settings as I have left all jumpers alone apart from the CMOS one. How would I set the DDR voltage?

USB mouse skips and "cuts out"

Hi,
I'm having a very strange problem. I'm using an USB mouse from Microsoft (IntelliMouse Explorer).
Its an optical mouse with a wire connecting to the usb port of the macbook pro 17".
My MacBook Pro is the top of the line one.
The problem i'm experiencing is that quite often, the mouse "cuts out" and i'm moving it about but the arrow is "stuck". I then try to move the arrow with my finger on the trackpad and there is no problem. A few second later the mouse works again. This happens about avery thirty seconds and is very annoying.
I tried to buy another mouse from Logitech - a very expensive one. But...it also happens with this mouse.
So, it must be the mac.
It hasnt been happening all the time, but since i dont have the time to do a all new install of the operating system (i'm using the all new version), I am really not sure what to do about it at the moment, so i'm living with it...
Am i the only one who has experienced this?
Kind regards
Nitnellav
Message was edited by: Nitnellav
Message was edited by: Nitnellav
Message was edited by: Nitnellav

You are not the only one on this issue, either I am also experiencing this same issue. With every USB mouse I use. I have a wired logitech g5 mouse and the razr mamba. They both experience this "cut off" and "sticking" issue, that you explained. Its especially noticeable in games. I use OSX 10.6.1 and Windows 7 via bootcamp 3. I am running the latest MBP model 15 inch.

Sudden power cut out when battery is not fully depleted?

My MacBook Pro is misbehaving - when running on battery it will spontaneously cut out as if someone has yanked the battery out - no warning. Its doing this seemingly unrelated to how much power is left, and gives no warning messages at all. Any ideas?

Your battery may need calibration. (The battery may be empty before it is recognized as being empty.) Try this:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490

Internet stopped working, music cuts out through USB

Okay, I searched the forum and didnt find an answer so here's my problem:
first of all this iPod touch is only a couple months old, and ive only really used it in my car, and the internet at home when the computer is being used. The internet worked fine for a while, but a few days ago it showed full connection, but instead of connecting the internet page just stays blank and I cannot do anything until the ipod goes to sleep. I restarted it, and now I get an Error message: "Operation could not be completed (POSIX error 12- cannot allocate memory)"
What do I do to fix this? should I reset settings or restore?
Also, in my car i have to make the ipod play before i connect it or it can take any number of minutes before it plays a song or half then cuts out. It never used to do that and my old ipod works fine. same thing happens when i put it on my dock, I have to make it play first so it doesnt cut out though.
I hope this can be fixed, any help?
Message was edited by: iAcura

You should [Try this out|http://www.apple.com/support/ipodtouch/troubleshooting/ipodtouch>. I think just Restoring to latest firmware would help.
Darie

USB power periodically cutting out

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