Usb short in PB Ti

I was just troubleshooting a powerbook Ti that refused to turn on at all. The culprit was a broken USB port where the middle plastic flap had fallen off and the pins were bent. The bent pin was making contact with the outer shell (ground?) of the port. I'm guessing there's something built in that detected the short and prevented the power from being turned on. Once I bent the pins so there was no contact, everything booted up as normal.
My question is, do I need to worry about long term damage from the short? Since it is mission critical, I'm wondering if I should consider replacing it even though it works. If I don't have to, I don't want to replace it.
thanks.

Hi, TN. I have no experience or knowledge that is helpful here. But as a practical matter, if the Powerbook still seems to do everything it needs to do now that you've sorted out the remains of the USB port, my inclination would be to wedge a little insulating material into that port to keep the warring factions separated, cover the port with sturdy tape so no one will mistakenly plug something into it it, and continue using the machine. If you can't get along without that port, or if the other USB port doesn't work either, and you need USB, then relegate the PB to some use in which USB isn't important, or replace it. You could replace its logic board to get working USB ports back in it, but I don't think I would do that in a mission-critical computer.

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Usb short now buzzing noise

Presario S5100NX
Hello, believe I caused a short and now there is a humming/buzzing noise coming from inside the pc. Accidentally touched the micro usb side of a cable to the usb hub, computer shutoff/crashed?, and when I turned it on, that buzzing noise began and monitor displayed the Compaq screen with F1 setup and F10 System recovery options. Both option do not respond. Switched keyboards and F1 & F10 still non responsive.
The noise comes from a small black cylinder, with AC-1205G and a plus symbol inside a circle on it's top side. It is located right next to the port that connects the power button and display lights to the board.
Need to know if there is a reset or a fuse. Is the board possible burnt or bad? Can I repair or will I need to take it to a service center?
Help.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

The AC-1205G device is a magnetic buzzer. Considering your venerable old PC (10 years now) has given you many years of great service, it seems an appropriate time to replace it. There is no fuse or reset on the motherboard.
It is highly unlikely that you will be able to find a replacement motherboard as they are no longer manufactured. The current value of the PC ( < $50.00), even in good working condition, is actually not enough to warrant investing any funds to have any work done on it.
Best regards,
erico
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

External HDD just won't fly on USB... (and other random rants)

Hi there Apple lovers and problem solvers!
I have an external drive that can connect via firewire AND usb 2.0. The drive runs fine on the firewire but whenever I plug it into the USB I immediately get the alert message "USB Over Current Notice, A USB device is currently drawing too much power. The hub it is attached to will be deactivated".
I am trying all sorts of things. I purchased an i-rocks USB hub that is self powered and still, no cigar.
If I were using the storage device just for backup, I would be happy going via firewire, but since I am using this device for faster realtime audio recording and movie making, I would like to run via USB 2.0. My understanding is that USB 2.0 generates faster test results than the Firewire 1394 and I would like to know for myself and not be limited to the Firewire.
I'm a bit dissapointed because I upgraded from my 17" powerbook to the 24" iMac as I was having USB issues thinking these same USB issues wouldn't haunt me in a desktop machine and yet here I am again, dealing with these same problems. Whats the problem? Why can a PC user plug in my drive into a USB and it fires up no problem? Why is my USB always inferior or lacking the guts to do the core stuff I need to do. I love apple, the interface is great... but I spend way too much time fiddling with the odd issue like USB circuits that can't handle the juice or commit to doing what they just can't achieve. Whats the solution here?
I'm on Leopard and I upgraded over the top of Tiger (which ppl tell me was a no no). Is there going to be a fix that will correct the apparent problems that are caused by upgrading to leopard from tiger instead of a clean install? Ever since the upgrade my USB shorts out... for example, when the CPU is a bit intensive, like flying between expose, widgets and an animating finder window, its like the USB shorts out and my mouse will flick around the screen... it makes me want to downgrade back to tiger. What do I do?????? Is there an update to fix this coming anytime soon?
Kind regards,
Robert Norris, Apple convert and previous apple preacher who has converted an army of pc users to apple. Please help me stay a happy customer.

Hi cosmicbdog
Humm..(just checking) I hope you don't have it connect FireWire AND USB at the same time? Have you tried a different USB cord perhaps that one has a short, or some other device is also drawing on the bus.
Have a look at "USB compared with FireWire" in the following article:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usb#USBcompared_withFireWire
Also have a look at this "USB Device Troubleshooting" article:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58033
I installed 10.5 over 10.4.11 with no issues what so ever, only lost a couple of small unsupported third party App's.
Have you run Disk Utility / Repair Disk Permissions sense upgrading? note: 10.5.. repair disk permissions hangs on less than a min. for a short time so be patient and let it finish.
http://kb.wisc.edu/helpdesk/page.php?id=3810
Dennis

T430 USB 3.0 Design Limitation

Today my new T430 showed up. How sad and frustrated am I that my Corsair Voyager GT Pro doesn't fit into the USB 3.0 ports?
Lenovo has made the classic mistake (again). The ports are recessed under the edge of the keyboard tray. I'll start looking for a USB to USB short dongle, but wow.. .what were they thinking? How many times do they need to learn this?
If you have any USB device that isn't the standard sized housing (the part behind the actual metal plug), odds are good it will NOT fit in the 3.0 ports. So, buy a different laptop.
If Lenovo reads this and you have any suggestions or an FRU for a USB to USB dongle, please post it.

jrainey wrote:
Today my new T430 showed up. How sad and frustrated am I that my Corsair Voyager GT Pro doesn't fit into the USB 3.0 ports?
(snip)
If you have any USB device that isn't the standard sized housing (the part behind the actual metal plug), odds are good it will NOT fit in the 3.0 ports.
You should be complaining to Corsair about their funky shockproof rubber case design on that model.... on the flush surface mounted USB ports on my desktop computer, the oversized Voyager GT Pro case obstructs the adjoining USB port!
Its not specifically a T430s (or even laptop) problem.
Cheers,
Bill
I don't work for Lenovo

Do I have a valid backup - or not?

I have been concerned that my backup clocks up the % completion until it gets to 'Contacts & Calendar' at around 65%, then says 'Backup complete'.
This might be explained by what I saw when I reinstalled BB Link, which was a reference to 'Where contacts/calendar are synced manually, they will be ignored during backup' or words to that effect. As I do sync contacts and calendar manually, is that why it seems to stop at 65%?
But is there any way of testing that I have a valid backup, ie verifying it?

SittingOn_TheMoon wrote:
If you look at both of my scans, it starts off with 'Known viruses: 572031'. I'm not sure as to what this means is my point. Is it just an indication of a common virus going around at this time or is it the virus that tried to infect my Mac?
That is just the number of viruses that are in the software's database.
I'm worried that it may be passed on with my USB (short for memory stick) to my pc which is run on windows.
Your Mac is not going to automatically copy any virus to your USB stick. You could do that manually, but that is the only way it would get there from the Mac.
From the PC side, however, any USB drive could potentially have viruses on it. Every couple of months, some piece of hardware comes shipped from the factory with Windows viruses preinstalled for your convenience.
Personally, I think it is absolutely ridiculous that we Mac users are expected to load up our Macs with antivirus software do that we can detect Windows viruses just in case we might inadvertently pass them on to some PC which would be vulnerable. That is the PC's problem, not mine.
If you need to use Windows for some specific tasks, fine, us it for them. Don't use it to surf the web, especially with Internet Explorer. Don't use it for e-mail, especially with Outlook. Don't connect any USB sticks to it.
On the Mac, those Javascript pop-ups and virus downloads are harmless. Just quit the browser (I guarantee Force Quit will do it) and delete the viruses. Firefox is starting to fray at the seams. It won't be long before it is gone by the wayside in favor of Chrome. I'll be sticking with Safari.

What the ****??? URGENT PLEASE- DO I HAVE A TROJAN/ VIRUS OR NOT???

Okay after i closed a fake uncloseable
windows'page warning of having been infected by shutting off my mac (the only way to shut down was by holding the power button), i verified my disk and it said it was ok. i proceeded by installing and scanning my usb and firefox with clamxav, and this is what came up:
(firefox)
---------- SCAN SUMMARY -----------
Known viruses: 572031
Engine version: 0.95.2
Scanned directories: 64
Scanned files: 393
Infected files: 0
Data scanned: 27.96 MB
Data read: 44.28 MB (ratio 0.63:1)
Time: 8.109 sec (0 m 8 s)
ClamXav v1.1.1 - ClamAV 0.95.2/9450/Wed Jun 10 23:41:08 2009 - ClamXav
No infected files were found.
(usb)
----------- SCAN SUMMARY -----------
Known viruses: 572031
Engine version: 0.95.2
Scanned directories: 77
Scanned files: 215
Infected files: 0
Data scanned: 55.76 MB
Data read: 165.55 MB (ratio 0.34:1)
Time: 8.199 sec (0 m 8 s)
ClamXav v1.1.1 - ClamAV 0.95.2/9450/Wed Jun 10 23:41:08 2009 - ClamXav
No infected files were found.
Does this mean i have that virus on my firefox and usb, and possibly my mac? because i'm scared of using my usb on my pc as i don't want to infect my pc.

SittingOn_TheMoon wrote:
If you look at both of my scans, it starts off with 'Known viruses: 572031'. I'm not sure as to what this means is my point. Is it just an indication of a common virus going around at this time or is it the virus that tried to infect my Mac?
That is just the number of viruses that are in the software's database.
I'm worried that it may be passed on with my USB (short for memory stick) to my pc which is run on windows.
Your Mac is not going to automatically copy any virus to your USB stick. You could do that manually, but that is the only way it would get there from the Mac.
From the PC side, however, any USB drive could potentially have viruses on it. Every couple of months, some piece of hardware comes shipped from the factory with Windows viruses preinstalled for your convenience.
Personally, I think it is absolutely ridiculous that we Mac users are expected to load up our Macs with antivirus software do that we can detect Windows viruses just in case we might inadvertently pass them on to some PC which would be vulnerable. That is the PC's problem, not mine.
If you need to use Windows for some specific tasks, fine, us it for them. Don't use it to surf the web, especially with Internet Explorer. Don't use it for e-mail, especially with Outlook. Don't connect any USB sticks to it.
On the Mac, those Javascript pop-ups and virus downloads are harmless. Just quit the browser (I guarantee Force Quit will do it) and delete the viruses. Firefox is starting to fray at the seams. It won't be long before it is gone by the wayside in favor of Chrome. I'll be sticking with Safari.

My Time Machine can't talk to Drobo anymore

I use a Drobo NAS as my primary fault tolerant Time Machine disk. After installing Lion, I can't get to any backups prior to the install. I'm able to connect, etc. but no access from Time Machine. Does anyone else run Drobo and Lion sucessfully?
This is an issue because my Address Book got wiped out during the Lion upgrade and Mobile Me made sure to wipe it out on my iPhone and iPad2 also. In recovery mode.

Just FYI, ISCSI does not work with Lion Server and I believe people are having problem with Lion Client also. Additionally I have had lock-ups with FW800 using Lion Server. Seems there are many people in the forums with the same problems. I am thinking of getting back to USB to see if even that works. Right now Lion Server with Drobo seems severely broken.
I have the following from Drobo Support.
Thank you for contacting Drobo Technical Support.
I am very sorry for the inconvenience.
Unfortunately the update to Lion has broken compatibility with iSCSI devices. Until we can get the Dashboard updated, or GlobalSan comes out with a Lion compatible iSCSI connection, I recommend switching to Firewire 800.
I know it is not actually an answer and FW800 has also had problems. I will be switching to USB shortly to see if that works. BTW this seems to be the case with or without Spotlight running.
Message was edited by: anguz

How to Use Home+End Key on new short usb apple keyboard on XP

How to Use Home+End Key on new short usb apple keyboard on XP
now i use macbook and new short apple keyboard.
it hasn't Home and End key. i try to use Fn + -> , Fn + <-
it cann't do that. How can i set the Fn + <- be Home key
and Fn + -> be End key like on my macbook keyboard
thank you for answer

Easy, no need to be harsh. I might not be a Level 9  Discussions user, but I’ve been an Apple Technician for more than a decade now. So believe me, I know what I’m talking about. Be it OS X Server or emptying the Trash. But even I come here from time to time to learn from others. Well, back to topic and being a little more specific:
The 'My Info' setting always belongs to the first iCloud account you add to an iOS device. In this account you create at least 1 contact, the one you will be using for 'My Info'. You then do the same on your other iOS device using NOT the same iCloud account, of course. You only need to enable contacts syncing in iCloud preferences for these primary accounts. From here on you can use differing 'My Info' on your 2 iOS devices without a problem.
But you may know that you can use more than one iCloud account at a time. Only the primary one will offer all iCloud options like Photostream. But what they all offer is contacts, calendars, etc. So if you intend (and I did) to share these 2 between your devices you can add them using a second iCloud account to both of your iOS devices. This makes it 3 accounts all in all. You could even go further and add another one just for 'Find my iPhone' if you like.
I would’ve used the built-in sharing of Calendar.app instead, but Contacts.app does not (yet) offer sharing contacts with others. That’s why I went with the third iCloud account as a secondary account to both iOS devices.
Apple of course recommends using just one Apple ID for everything to make it easier. But in some scenarios this just won’t cut it, which is even described in one of their support documents.
I hope that now you have an idea what I’ve done…
Good night
Björn
PS: It would be nice if people did not insist on being right. They too can sometimes learn something!

Keyboard malfunction and shorted USB port

Hey all, I've got a question regarding my Apple USB keyboard. Just last night, I spilled a few drops of coffee onto my keyboard. Honestly, it was just a few drops...most spilled onto the desk itself. Now, the three top row of keys on the numeric keypad don't work, along with the right SHIFT key. What gives? Is there something I can do to fix this problem?
Also, at the same time, I noticed that one of the three USB ports in the back of the iMac stopped working. And funny enough, it was NOT the usb port that the keyboard was plugged into. Is there a way to reactivate this USB port? Can spilling a few drops of liquid onto a keyboard be enough to short out the USB internal hub?
Thanks in advance!
David
iMac G5 2GHz Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1GB RAM, 160GB Hard Drive

Hello,
Inside the keyboard, there are two plastic sheets that have traces on them. When you press the key, it presses the two plastic sheets together at a specific point. This contact tells the computer which key you pressed.
If you get liquid in there, it can come between the two sheets, and prevent contact from being made. So, most likely, you need to open the keyboard and dry out the liquid between those two sheets (Using a clean and soft towel).
You can read more about how the keyboard is constructed and how to clean it in one of my previous answers here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2791931&#2791931
As for the problem of your USB port, you might try just turning the computer off and back on. If they get shorted (or have too much power drawn from them), then the computer will deactivate that port until you have restarted your computer. So, give that a try.
I hope this helps.
Let us know if you have other questions.
P.S., if you'd like, go ahead and click the "Helpful" or "Solved" buttons on any of the posts / replies above if you feel they were helpful or adequately answered your question.

Dv6 HDD failed short test, was able to factory restored to create USB MR but not working

HP Pavilion dv6-6c35dx (Refurbished)
Windows 7 Home Premium (64 bit)
Error: The system recovery discs do not support this computer.
You are not able to restore this system with these discs.
I have not upgraded any hard ware on the laptop,
One day my laptop did not started and only showed a black screen, after doing all tests from the HP Advance System Diagnostics. it showed that the HDD fail the Short DST (wich indicated that the HDD wasnt good anymore or it was about to die, wich I hoped it was this last explanation as I never created a revovery disc for this laptop.
"Hard Disk Test
Testing Drive: 1
HD SMART Check: Passed
HD Short DST: Failed
Failure ID: 60F0XF-0006MM-PXGK01-60V703
Product ID: A6Y53UAR#ABA
Hard Disk 1"
I did a factory restored to see if it can revived it and it worked so I was able to create a USB Recovery Media successfully.
Ordered a replacement HDD (actually the Seagate Hybrid 750 GB 7500 rpm SSD/HDD Momentus XT)
Once got the new HDD I installed it, booted the laptop from the USB Stick containing the Recovery Media, but got the error: "The system recovery discs do not support this computer.
You are not able to restore this system with these discs."
when visiting the HP support site, It tells me the following
"This error can occur due to the following conditions:
Using the wrong recovery discs, such as those that were created or ordered for another computer." (not my case)
"The configuration data on the motherboard or hard drive was not correctly configured at the factory when the computer was manufactured." (might be but will explain what I think about this one)
"The motherboard on your computer was replaced with a motherboard that is not the same replacement part. If so, you must install a new operating system or replace the motherboard with an original type." (same as 2nd explanation)
The first explanation is not my case because I did created the recovery media from the same laptop "Computer"
The 2nd and 3rd Might explained why I cannot use the USB Recovery Media, but I shouldnt had the same issue when doing the Factory Restore from the factory or refurbisher installed HDD? since it basically install all drives and software nedded for the laptop to work? ( I consider myself as an average computer user, not ignorant but and expert )

Hi:
Sometimes the recovery media doesn't work for one reason or another and there is no one size fits all answer.
As i see it you have two options:
1. Order a set of recovery disks from HP.
2. Make your own plain W7 installation media if you can read all 25 characters of the W7 product key on the bottom of your notebook.
Option 2 will normally give you a much peppier PC, free of bloatware, but you will not have any of the programs that came with your PC that you may want.
Or you can use option 2 to get your PC up and running until your set of HP disks arrive.
Here are the instructions to do that if you want.
Download the W7 Home Premium SP1 64 bit iso file from the link below and follow the instructions to use the Microsoft ISO to USB tool.
Make sure you get the whole file to download. Make a note of the advertised size and compare that with the actual file that downloaded. Sometimes it states the download was complete but the whole file isn't there.
Use the Windows 7 USB/DVD installation tool to compile the ISO file you download from Digital River. Link below. You need a 4 GB flash drive to use the USB method of compilation.
http://download.cnet.com/Windows-7-USB-DVD-Download-Tool/3000-18513_4-10972600.html
Use the 25 character product key on the PC to activate the installation.
The key will activate either a 32 or 64 bit installation.
Then go to the PC's support and driver page to install the drivers and available software you need.
Link to the W7 ISO file downloads is below.
http://forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/14709-Windows-7-Digital-River-direct-links-Multiple-Languag...

When I use Iphone 4 personal hotspot on USB, it works for a short time and then times out.

When I use Iphone 4 personal hotspot on USB, it works for a short time and then times out.
When pinging my iphone directly at 172.20.10.1, while I'm surfing and it times out, the ping shows nothing but "request timed out" .. Sometimes it "comes back" and sometimes I have to reboot my phone or disconnect the USB.. It's always done this and only on USB, it's very frustrating.
I have packet sniffed also, using Wireshark. When the "timeouts" happen, there's no more data coming from the Iphone. My PC continually sends ARP requests as well and don't get responses.
Have searched google endlessly and have gotten no where. This has been going on for several months and I'm just getting a bit fed up now.
        Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Apple Mobile Device Ethernet #3
        Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 42-A6-D9-94-82-9D
        Dhcp Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
        Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
        IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 172.20.10.2
        Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.240
        Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 172.20.10.1
        DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 172.20.10.1
        DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 172.16.206.215
                                            172.16.206.215
        Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:38:28 PM
        Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Sunday, August 21, 2011 7:24:04 PM

I guess if it were me I'd try hotter/longer, then never allow it to Sleep except for the Monitor, & set Processor to Highest Energy Saver>Options tab.
If you still want a G5, they've been getting cheaper on eBay & such, here's a 1.8 with bad PSU FOR $85+...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-PowerMac-G5-1-8-GHz-DP-Dual-Processor-Bad-PS-/1107 15492187#ht_794wt_1398
But the 2.3s were the most reliable G5s overall...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APPLE-POWERMAC-G5-2-3GHZ-DUAL-CORE-8GB-MEM-500GB-SATA-/3 80363233623
An hour left on this one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-PowerMac-G5-Dual-Core-2-3Ghz-2GB-250GB-Super-Leopa rd-A1177-/160680216830?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26 itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D380363233623%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4264672915595326464 #ht_6431wt_1165

Shorter USB cable for the Dinc 2

Looking for a shorter length USB cable than the one that came with the phone.
Does anyone know if they make a short length (less than 3') USB cable for the Dinc 2?
If so where could I get one?
Thanks again.

You have heard of 'Tethering' witch is only available on the iPhone but not in the US (thank you AT&T). That is only for using the iPhone to connect a computer to the internet. Sorry

USB Cable short length & Why earphone is white??

Yesterday i have purchased Xperia M2 Dual, and i am really disapointed to see USB cable length and White Colored Earphone, in Indian home generally we have switch board at 2 to 3 feet height from the floor level, and due to short length of the USB cable i am facing problem that where to fix cell phone while charging, i am using stool now and thats why its quite tuff to charge the cell phone, so why Sony's R&D team is not thinking this, Another problem i found about earphone, i think more then 80% people on the globe like to use Black colored electronic instrument same as me, and thats why i choose Black colored M2 Dual, then why Earphone is White?? how its looks, Black Cell phone and white earphone??? not so good color combination, Please sony think about this, i am really disapointed.

I don't want to antagonize you at all, but after reading your post, it seems that you want the product to be tailored to you. The length of the cable it's standard, there are longer micro USB cables available in the market, or extensions, as for the color of the headphones that vary per region, even phones in the same country could contain different items. But make sure to contact Sony directly as this is a user based forum. http://support.sonymobile.com/global-en/contactUs/

My USB cords all have shorts in them, will apple replace them

My USB cords both have shorts will apple replace them

If they are from Apple and there is no sign of abuse on them.

Z77a gd65 usb 3.0 electric short

Hello,
i bought this motherboard and about 5 days ago i had an error message in windows saying that there was a short in the usb ports behind the motherboard. Both my keyboard and mouse stopped working, with no power going through the usb's, and i'm afraid my mouse also drew it's last breath in the process.
I've tried the many different solutions found on this forums and a few found randomly on the internet, like reinstalling the drivers and everything, but the evidence points to the usb controller having drawn it's last breath, as mentioned before there is no power whatsoever going through.
The usb ports on the front on my tower work no problems though, but if i understood correctly, they're both usb 2.0.
I have no idea who to contact or what i could further do to try and fix this situation and could use some help. Any suggestion?
Thank you for your time and consideration.
Have a good one!
P.S. just saw the posting guidelines, will update with information as soon as i get back home. In the meantime, all suggestions are welcome.

Quote from: strange.ape on 14-January-15, 04:01:19
As far as the retailer, that motherboard was bought from NCIX in september of 2013, which makes it out of the reseller's responsability.
I see.
See this topic then: https://forum-en.msi.com/faq/article/contact-msi-support

Usb short in PB Ti

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