User damaged MS-7407 motherboard

I recently allowed a potential customer to use a Hetis G31 (MS-7407 Version 1.0) at a trade show to drive a digital sign.
Someone apparently dropped it and there is a dent in the cover and chassis on the left side near the small cooling fan.
There was apparently some damage done to the SATA interface, because I can not get the system to recognize an SATA drive in either SATA1 or SATA2. I know the drive is good and I also tried a couple of different cables. A standard IDE drive will boot fine and the system seems otherwise fine.
My customer is asking how much it would cost to replace the motherboard.
When I went thru tech support w/ that question, I was given an RMA to return the whole system.
Since this is not a defective product, rather a damaged one, I did not return it.
Is it possible to acquire a replacement motherboard and how much would it cost?
Thanks,
Michael Joyce
email removed to protect user from spam
phone # removed to protect user's privacy.

We're users here. You really need to contact MSI to see what it would cost. Most likely, you will need to just send it in as an RMA.
>>How to contact MSI.<<

Similar Messages

Mystery of cracked screen - user damage!

Has anyone else discovered their macbook pro screen cracked for no apparent reason? I have mine less then 2 months, treat it with respect, have never dropped/bumped, applied pressure or slammed the lid. I bought it in Dubai through an authorised apple dealer who have deemed the damage to be user damage so no cover. I paid £2,500 new only to now have to pay £500 for repair. I am utterly dismayed at this outcome...surely this has to be a manufacture default. I cant even see the crack and thought it was a hardware problem but I stand corrected.

- Apple will exchange it for a refurbished one it for this price:
Apple - Support - iPod - Repair pricing
- You can Google and find a thrid-party place in the UK
- You can fix it yourself. Here are instructions. Google for the parts.
iPod Touch Repair - iFixit
I doubt the slowness is due to the pdrop. I suspect a restore will cure that.

Is there any hope for a water damaged ipad mini?

I accidentally spilled some water over my ipad mini. I think the water got into the ipad thru the earphone jack. If spent about two weeks trying to dry it out.
The excess moisture that was inside the screen has disappeared (after head and rice and all that sort of thing) but it will not switch on.
If I connect to the power, I can hear the audible beep that happens when you plug it in. If I leave it for a while, I can randomly hear Siri saying something like 'Siri cannot operate'(not too sure - I've always been too far away) and 'please connect to Internet'
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there may not be unfortunately.
The water itself doesn't damage the device, but the short circuits the water causes does the damage. Anecdotally, people have reported success drying their device out, but usually the key is to rice it and leave it until it's totally dry. And avoid any power that may cause those short circuits. Since you've turned it on and such what damage there was to do is probably already done.
Just guessing, from what you;'re saying, the wifi part and the backlight/screen light seems to be damaged even though part of the operating system works (since siri can tell you she needs the internet)
You may be to the point of hoping Apple can grant you an out of warranty replacement (they don't have to when it's user damage) or looking for a new device.

I have a iphone 4 can and its severly damaged can i goto the apple store and they give me a replacement even if i didnt buy it there?

i have a iphone 4 can and its severly damaged can i goto the apple store and they give me a replacement even if i didnt buy it there?

You can see about purchasing an out of warranty replacement if it qualifies. They certainly will not give you a replacement, since it is more than likely user damage.

My iPhone 5 just fell on the floor from a water tumbler. The height mayb like 2 -3 feet. i'm just curious to know if i have to worry about any kind of internal damage. It had a moshi cover on when it fell but it fell on the side of the screen so just

My iPhone 5 just fell on the floor from a water tumbler. The height mayb like 2 -3 feet. i'm just curious to know if i have to worry about any kind of internal damage. It had a moshi cover on when it fell but it fell on the side of the screen so just worried about the microphone or the front camera. Someone please reply if i should go to Apple and give the phone for a hardware check.

The only choice you have is accept it as it is or pay for a replacement
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IPhone 5 damaged?

My iPhone 5 was thrown to the ground and on the corner of impact it's wonky and un-even. The screen and other side is 100% fine it seems. What should I do? Should I take the iPhone to the apple store and see what they say? I am expecting to pay for this. My iPhone was only bought a month or 2 ago.

You have at least 2 choices:
You can use your phone as it is and do nothing
You can bring your phone to Apple and pay $229 for an out of warranty replacement as your user damage as voided your warranty (you will pay $49 for the same replacement if you have already purchased AppleCare+)

I dropped my phone in water does apple cover water damage?

Do some places like apple stores do the swap and trade and give you a new device?

Nobody's warranty covers user damage. Apple will replace your drowned phone with an "out of warranty replacement", but will require money, happily only a fraction of the full retail price.

My iPhone4 is broken and my phone company won't cover the damage. I am a student and I can't afford a new one..Will apple send me a new one?

My iPhone4 is broken and my phone company won't cover the damage. I am a student and I can't afford a new one..Will apple send me a new one?

No, you don't get a new iPhone simply because you cannot afford to replace it.
What do you mean it's "broken"? Is it physically broken? If so, warranty does not cover user damage.

How did you damage/break your headphone ja

The problems with the headphone jack seem to be a frequent issue for Zen Micro owners. Is this a question of build quality or simply defecti've units?
Those owners, who have experienced issues with the Zen Micro?s headphone jack, do you mind providing information on the following:
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- Do you use the standard Creative cradle case?
- Do you keep the unit in your pants pocket?
2) What headphones do you use?
- Do you use the standard Creative headphones?
- Do you use headphones with a 90-degree (L) plug? (As per diagram)
..........|||============= Wire to ear pieces
|......Creative.........|
3) Was damage to your headphone jack down to user damage (ie you broke it accidentally) or standard use (ie normal daily use)?
4) Did issues occur immediately or overtime?
I can see how wearing the unit on your waist can be an issue, as when you sit or bend, your body places pressure on the jack. I know the current standard headphones are a straight-plug, most likely so they are a neater fit for the headphone remote. However I think a 90-degree plug would reduce potential dramas ? one reason is the socket is shorter, and is less susceptible to damage when pressure is placed on it (as it simply will turn).

There has been no damage to the phone. I have tried four different head phones. When it started all i had to do was twist the head phone and the phone would lose connection. When that happens on the LG it completely stops playing music, turns the display screen on, and sometimes changed settings while in my pocket. I used compressed air to try to clean it and a paper clip. Shortly after it completely stopped working unless i held it in place which of course is horribly annoying. I use my phone with its million features and apps to basically make phone calls, text, flash light, and you guessed it, listen to music. Without music i have , literally, little use for this phone. Trying to contact customer service has been extraordinarily frustrating. I called the store i bought the phone and told the girl working that from what i read online, this phone suffers from this problem a lot. To me that means the manufacturer is selling faulty product that will knowingly break. And of all things, the head phone Jack? They've been around for how many years now? The girl working agreed with me that they break often and told me to remove the battery and put it back in. On a phone that doesn't allow you to remove the battery. Then she gives me a number i call that then tells me to get some other phone to call a different number which is not what i need. I need information on how to fixed or have it replaced. I had purchased insurance but when my card maxed the insurance plan was cancelled. I've had it for over a year so the warranty is gone. Now I have a phone that doesn't do the one thing i like it to do While employees admit to me they break often over the very problem i presented. Very frustrating to buy a phone, which by the way is really a great phone, that can no longer do what my 20 year old CD player can still do, connect to the headphone jack.

Motherboard MSI MS-6380 ATX (Via K7T266A Pro2)

In the user manual of my motherboard (MSI MS-6380 ATX (Via K7T266A Pro2)), I can read that supports socket-A (socket-462) AMD processor from 800Mhz up to 1800+ Mhz processor. I would like to upgrade my processor. Does anyone have an idea if this Motherboard will support the CPU AMD Sempron 2400+. This processor has a FSB of 266Mhz (what is supported by the motherboard) and the same socket (socket-462) ? Maybe a upgrade of the bios will make that possible ?
Thanks in advance,

The Sempron CPU's are 333FSB, and cannot be used on that board. There is an Athlon XP2400+ that uses a 266FSB, and these can be used on some versions of the K7T266Pro by doing a modifaction. See here
Without the modifaction, a Palamino core CPU is the highest supported CPU (Athlon XP 1800+ and lower)

Damaged new MBP?

Ik just received my new MBP today, and when I opened it, I immediately saw something that looks like some kind of damage, but I'm not entirely sure...
The metal just above the ESC key is bent and goes up about a milimeter.
I would like to post a photo, but I don't know how to do that here...
Can anybody with a MBP see if theirs has something that looks like a miniate skiing ramp on the top-left part of the metal plate?
Kind regards,
Allart van Holten

YOu can call up apple and they can either replace your computer or your Topcase.
That is if you can convince them that this is not "user damage".

Dropped My Laptop - Which Tests Should I Run To Assure It's Fine?

Unfortunately I placed my one + a half year old 15" MacBook Pro laptop on a new tilted notebook cooler (that has no grip), & sat them both on my computer chair while in use. To my recollection I only had the YouTube homepage open without any video playing, and Dropbox was downloading some small photo files to my laptop intermittently (that I was uploading from my iPhone at the time). I walked away and it suddenly all fell from a height of 2 feet. When I looked they were both sitting on the floor. The screen was in the same position I had it in (so it likely didn't land display first), & the notebook cooler was sitting to the left of it still connected via USB. I'm not sure that the soft notebook cooler broke it's fall (see attached photo), but it's crazy how it all landed flat as of it were being placed side by side on a table. The usb cord from the cooler didn't even yank itself out at all. My room is carpeted, but nonetheless I freaked out because it's a fairly new MacBook Pro, with a brand new 750GB Western Digital Black series 7200rpm sata hard drive (that I had just installed a couple months ago). The hard drive is obviously of importance to me since it carries a lot of my recent project/work files.
Luckily I have the original internal hard drive that initially came with my system. It contains all of the files I would have had a couple months back in working order. It's now in an external USB enclosure, because I had used Carbon Copy Cloner to migrate/backup an exact image of everything (data & OS) from my original drive, to my newer Western Digital hard drive - prior to installing it 2 months ago.
The first thing I did was inspect my laptop on the outside. I can tell you that surprising as it is there is absolutely no damage clear to the human eye that I can see on the exterior body. From what I've heard the MacBook Pro shell is actually made out of a solid piece of aluminum. The hinge when you move the screen still feels the same as it did before too. I have quite the computer skills background, so I opened the case up just to give it a glace over with my magnifying glasses headset and a flashlight. I looked at the motherboard over and over for about an hour to double, and triple check that there was no damage to the motherboard (ie: cracks, broken solder, bent usb port that was in use during the fall, etc). From what I saw there was absolutely no damage to the important parts of the laptop. I had opened up the case before, and it looked pretty much the same... The only thing I noticed damaged, were the 3 screw holes that hold the laptop battery in place (one is under a black leftside sticker). Such a minor crack on each of the plastic screw holes (on the plastic battery body, not the aluminum laptop case). They were very minor cracks yet still in place, you'd have to look closely to see them. Now I can't remember well, but I think the last time I opened the case months ago they may have already been like that. & I may have just left it as they were. If so the damage could have been caused by over screwing at the factory. I'm not sure, but if not the fall may have caused it. So I took the battery out and super glued the screw holes back to the battery body properly (see attached photo). I could not, and would not disassemble the MacBook Pro motherboard, & other device pieces for a more thorough check over a 2 foot fall. I just don't think it's warranted to do so, being that everything else on the underside seems to be fine to the naked eye. I guess it would be going overboard...
A quick factoid:
Apparently my MacBook Pro has a feature called SMS (Sudden Motion Sensor). The Sudden Motion Sensor is designed to detect unusually strong vibrations, sudden changes in position, and accelerated movement. If the sensor detects any of these, it instantly parks the hard drive heads to help reduce the risk of damage to the hard drive in case of impact. When the SMS senses that the computer's position is once again stable, it unlocks the hard drive heads and returns to normal operation. In general, SMS protection does not change hard disk performance with regular operation.
Also my new internal Western Digital Black series hard drive specifically states on their website to having "Rock-solid Mechanical Architecture." With enhanced reliability features help protect the drive and the data stored on it. As well as "NoTouch Ramp Load technology" - The recording head never touches the disk media ensuring significantly less wear to the recording head and media as well as better drive protection in transit. Although I don't know if these Western Digital features apply to normal operating hdd use while powered on, or just when you have your laptop powered off (eg: parked head position when shutdown).
I called Western Digital since the hard drive has a 5 year warranty (unheard of). & I asked them if they had any software to diagnose the drive beyond Disk Utility's simple "SMART" status info in Mountain Lion's Mac OS X 10 (which showed up okay by the way). Anyways Western Digital does have software to do a thorough SMART test, and surface scan checking for Windows (which I have used before on my other pcs in the past). But they don't have one for Mac, and he suggested I take the hard drive out, then pop it in a pc to scan it. But I'm not even sure a pc would recognize the disk being that it's formatted differently in comparison to the pc standard of NTFS. I believe he said to reformat it as NTFS, but that would defeat the purpose of a faster scanning method, and leaving it as is.
So now what I'd like to do is use a program I found called "TechTool Pro 7." I'll install it to the original hard drive that came with my MacBook Pro (that's now in my external usb enclosure), and use it to run every possible scan on my MackBook Pro to make sure everything that appears to be okay - actually is. But most importantly to run a thorough SMART test, and surface scan on the newer internal hard drive that experienced the fall. Since TechTook Pro 7 does have the ability to do so on any drive. Ya, believe it or not newer Mac's don't have a surface scan feature in the OS. Remember the external usb hard drive is an exact 1:1 image of my working MacBook Pro a couple months back. So I should be able to boot off it, and install the program onto it. Of course I'd be turning off my Wi-Fi during TechTool Pro 7 use, to avoid any unrelated software updates from other programs while scanning.
I need to run a surface scan on this drive asap, and I will. I'd appreciate it if you guys would give me general things I should do to test all of my laptops hardware to determine if everything is alright or not. Let me know what type of things I should use to test all of the internal laptops hardware. Let me know what to look for... & how I should go about using my laptop for the next month or so. I will probably be doing tests on it every two weeks just to make sure it's okay until Spring hits. If everything is fine then, well it should be good for the long term - and have survived the impact well enough.
Thank You Apple Forum Users & Happy New Year
P.s.
If anybody knows what type of drop tolerance a hard drive can take (and survive) while in use let me know. Also I did come up with a couple of things on Google that supposedly can help. One is Apple Diagnostics, and the second is called Apple Hardware Test. If you Google them they'll come up, but I have no idea if these are for desktop style Mac's only or laptops too since they don't mention the word laptop. See here for a quicker view:
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11342

in the future, buy this, this is what the Pros use:
for drops, accidents, spills, loss, or theft, purchase a TYPE of insurance called "inland marine insurance"
roughly $30 per year for a device(s) with 0 deductible, used same for over 20 years, same insurance the pros use on their portable devices.
very cheap, very useful insurance, most people dont know about same.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inland_marine_insurance

Macbook Air or Macbook Pro

Yes, I know you hear this question a million times a day but I think it's different per person. Here's some information about me: Firstly, I am comparing the 13" MBA (128gb) model with the 13" MBP model but I did have a question regarding the 11" MBA that I will get to in a moment.
I plan on starting college this Fall so portability is a small factor, where obviously the Air has the edge. However, I don't see a major difference with the pro.
I understand the importance of a solid state drive and starting up quickly will also play a small role. Again, I know the Air has the edge here but are the start up times on a pro really that bad?
I play video games. Mainly World of Warcraft, and I don't require maximum settings.
Heat is an issue, I don't like my legs getting hot an uncomfortable while I'm trying to relax and browse the web
I am decent with Photoshop and Illustrator however I doubt I will ever be using them too avidly, but the possibility is there.
I mostly use the internet for social networking, but I do also watch quite a bit of TV and I am looking in to signing up for Netflix.
My friend has a MBP that has lasted over 6 years (Phenominal for a laptop IMO) can I expect the same life span with the MBA?
Should I look in to purchasing the insurance with either of the variants, or should I expect a reliable machine for a while. (Note that I am not computer illiterate and I can solve simple problems on my own.
Is upgrading to the i7 on a MPA worth the money?
I stream most of my music off of the internet through services such as Grooveshark, so space isn't much of an issue but some programs will be there (Like WoW which takes up 30+GB) Is an external drive a reliable solution to this problem? Any reccomendations on portable HDD's?
Price is something to consider, but lightly.
Important final note: I have an 8 core rig sitting at home to do anything that requires a lot of memory/power. This will mostly be for daily use around the house when I'm not in my room locked away and when I get to college for writing papers.
Regarding the 11" MBA I was just wondering of the 128gb model of it is much different from the 13" does the .1 GHz clock speed really make any difference? I'm also trying to avoid the whole "Netbook" feel, netbooks feel flimsy and cheap and I simply don't want to spend this kind of money on something that isn't going to make me feel like I have a reliable machine. Also I see it's upgradable to 256gb SDD, which I don't see as being worth it in the long run if I have a relable external.
I know, wall of text but I am seriously torn between which of these 3 laptops I should get with my iPhone
One final question, does Apple offer a cloud service for MBA/P I could use in place of an external HDD?

Ill try to go through these, one by one, since I have owned BOTH the Air and the Pro and am quite familiar with both laptops.
1. I am in college. I MUCH prefer the Air to the Pro for its portability. The Air is TWO POUNDS lighter than the Pro. This may not seem like much to you, but when you have your computer AND a bunch of books, notebooks, pens, calculator, markers, and other things in your bag, two pounds is a WORLD of difference. When the Pro was in my backpack, I could tell it was there. I LITERALLY cannot tell the difference of the weight of my bag when my Air is in it and when it is not. Portability? Air wins HANDS DOWN.
2. Huge difference in speed of startup. Although it may not bother you either way. My Air starts in about 17 seconds. My Pro started in about 45. This is complete startup, from power button push to usuable desktop. You REALLY notice the speed difference when opening and closing apps and programs though. The SSD drive makes a world of difference. You CAN however, upgrade the Pro drive to an SSD, and get the same performance as long as you get a good SSD drive. The Air also shuts down in about 3 seconds. The Pro is about 15-20.
3. For WoW, the Air will suffice, but the computer will get FAIRLY hot while playing. The graphics are integrated in the i5 processor. The computer gets noticably warm when doing things like watching movies and such. You shouldnt have a problem actually PLAYING the game though, as the graphics on the Air and the Pro are essentially the same. The SSD drive makes a world of difference here as well. Load times are absurdly low.
4. The Air rarely gets more than warm. Just browsing the web wont heat it up at all. Same with the Pro. The only time I have EVER heard the fan on either is when I am watching full screen video on something such as Netflix, and even then, its barely audible. It shouldnt be a problem for you, unless you use the computer on a bed or something. You really need to have it on a flat surface when youre using it. Or your legs, as long as its not completely covered on the bottom, you should be fine. BOTH computers will behave similarly.
5. Photoshop and Illustrator will run fine. I wouldnt plan on doing HUGE projects with it, since the Air is limited to the 4GB of RAM. The Pro can take up to 16GB of RAM I believe, even though the specs only say up to 8GB. I could be off on this, but I really remember reading about people installing 16GB in their Pros and it recognizing all of it.
6. Netflix runs great on BOTH computers. I have had not ONE issue with it on my Air. Netflix depends more on the quality of your internet connection. I have FiOS here at home, so I never have any problems. The network at school is pretty crappy, but I have never had any problems streaming there either, on EITHER computer.
7. I would expect ANY Apple laptop to outlast virtually ANY Windows computer. I have had excellent experiences with ALL my Apple laptops. Any MINOR problems that i HAVE had, have been taken care of by Apple without issues. I would expect the lifetime of the Air to be superb as well.
8. The extended Apple Care is EXCELLENT. If you have the extra money for it, then you should purchase it. While the laptops are built far better than a Windows computer in general, things DO happen. If and when things go wrong, it can get expensive REALLY fast. A new motherboard would likely cost nearly the same as a new Air, and the Pro isnt much better in that respect. If you can afford it, buy it just for the peace of mind. It DOES NOT cover user damage however.
9. NO.
10. I would definitely look into an external HDD for putting WoW on. It would be better than hogging up 1/4 of your HDD space internally. You could also store movies and music, etc on the drive for when you are away from a WiFi spot.
11. The Air and the Pro cost NEARLY the same amount of money. Especially if you decide you want an SSD drive in the Pro.
12. Either computer will serve you extremely well in this use case.
As far as the 11 inch Air, I also had thought of purchasing the 11 inch. I went with the 13 inch Air for a couple reasons. The 11 inch Air, configured with 4GB of RAM and the 128GB SSD, was ONLY $100 LESS than the 13 inch Air. The clock speed PROBABLY wont make much of a difference. But the way I see it, if you are going to spend THAT much money for the 11 inch Air, why not spend $100 more and get the faster proc, the bigger/higher resolution screen, and the SD card reader? The 11 inch Air is nice, but the upgraded one just isnt worth the extra money, when you can get the better 13 inch version, for just a bit more. The extra screen real estate is REALLY nice to have, especially if you are going to be watching movies and such. The 13 only weighs .5 lbs MORE than the 11. You wont even be able to tell the difference.
Apple doesnt really have Cloud for Mac yet, but its supposed to be coming in the next OS, Mountain Lion. Hope this helps.

Advice for maintaining laptop condition

I currently own a MSI GE60-2OE002 which has encountered two cases where the motherboard had to be replaced. The first involved the laptop not powering on at all and the second involved the power button blinking blue and orange with the fan working, but the screen remained black. I've had to RMA it twice which was a pain to do. As these two cases happened over a year apart I assume that I wasn't unlucky to get a bad motherboard replacement. How could I prevent this sort of damage to the motherboard from occuring? Any advice on how to better take care of this laptop would be appreciated.

Just take care of your laptop. That's really the best advice.
As far as the problems, I'll be honest, there has been a large number of users with issues with the GE and GS series of laptops. I cannot comment on what the underlying problems are, but I will say that I'm not surprised you ended up having issues. For whatever reason, the newer GE and GS laptops with the i7 4700 series CPU seem to have issues with a larger number of users than with the previous i7 3600 series CPU's.
Did you make a bad purchase? No, if you're happy with the laptop and it's performance, ultimately that is what matters. And keep in mind that MSI is NOT Dell/HP or even Asus, they do not charge a premium for their laptops. Because of that fact alone (ie you're getting a high performance laptop for cheaper than other companies), I would understand that you may not get the same HIGH QUALITY (that's sort of a joke given Dell/HP/Asus's record though).

Graphics Card Hell

Trying to replace the original graphics card "AMD Radeon™ HD 6670 Graphics" with a new replacement "PNY - GeForce GT 610 2GB DDR3". When I boot up with this new card, I get the HP startup blue screen (says press ESC for startup menu). This screen is all I ever see. I tried pressing ESC and that did not do anything. I waited an hour and the screen NEVER changed.
This computer has more than enough power and this is a fairly simple card (no power input and smaller).
I also tried a larger card (EVGA - GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB GDDR5) before this but returned it (thankfully Best Buy let me return) because I thought the PSU was not good enough, but maybe I was hitting the same issue I am hitting with this smaller simpler card.
The only reason I am want to change out the graphics card is because the current card's fan is making a irritating loud noise almost constantly now. The noise has been occurring for years but only happened every now and then in the past.
I just need a card to handle 2 24 inch monitors. I do not play intense games.
Right now I am starting to think I may have to purchase a new computer to get rid of the irrating noise. This would be ridiculous for a 3 year old computer.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Some more details ...
PSU: DPS-600WB A
CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600 processor [3.4GHz, 8MB Shared Cache]
Memory: 10GB DDR3-1333MHz SDRAM [3 DIMMs]
Also I added Samsung SSD 850 EVO 2.5" SATA III 250GB as my C: drive.
In addition, I have 2 external hard drives and a printer.

You are welcome. Thank you for the additional information.
Since your computer was released prior to the mid-October, 2012 date, it has the standard BIOS. This is the reason that the GTX 750ti wouldn't work. It requires UEFI in the motherboard.
I suggest installing the GT 610 and clearing the CMOS:
caution:
Do not change any jumper setting while the computer is on. Damage to the motherboard can result.
This motherboard has a jumper to clear the Real Time Clock (RTC) RAM in CMOS.
Turn OFF the computer and unplug the power cord.
Move the jumper to clear for 5 to 10 secs, then move the jumper back to default.
Plug the power cord and turn ON the computer.
On the next startup, enter BIOS setup to re-enter user settings.
This may solve your problem.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
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**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
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User damaged MS-7407 motherboard

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