Using iDVD 3, what is the best set up for faster encoding?

Hi all. I just upgraded my G4 to 1Ghz and 1.25g ram. Got a new SuperDrive and wanting to crack out some DVDs. I noticed that the encoding process is the slowest ever. What (if anything other than buying a new mac) can I do to increase encoding process? Or can it be sped up. I did use MacSweeper on my HD and made sure that it has at least 20G available.
Thanks for your help.
Leo

FINALLY! I found out what was wrong with my system. I needed to download the Patchburn to get my system to recognize the DVD burner. I think I actually saw this somewhere, but the good folks at Other World Computing mentioned this to me. Anyway, let the burning begin! Thanks for your help.
Leo

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What is the best, set up for beginers?

What is the best set up ,for most , older people?

What Adobe program are you asking about?
Also, what is your operating system (Windows, Mac OS, ...)?

What is the best set up for video editing?

What is the best computer? The best software? The best external storage? The best ram? 3D editing? Everything!!!!!!
Running full HD and 720p at 60 fps videos. Clips ranging from a few seconds to 10-30 minutes.
Cost isn't an issue.
What is the best set up, not the most excessive. If it doesn't need to be there or it isn't greatly needed I would like to know. This is looking at the production aspects, not the camera and such. What is the best plug in for slow motion? Pros and Cons of the set up?
I would greatly appriciate everyones input in this. Thank you so much.

That is a hard question to answer.. Nothing is best for everyone... However if i am to generalize it I would put it this way.. If you want to cut everything from a short promos to hollywood pictures..
A high end windows pc (only cause mac pro hasn't been updated in ages)
Avid Media Composer with Nitrus DX
Two monitors
Broadcast monitor
HD Deck
pimping 5.1 speakers
A good mixer
You are looking at over 70,000 or 80,000, could even approach even more.. HD decks run atleast 15k.
If price is not an issue then there you go....
However this is not realistic for most people nor best solution by no means... I run a macbook pro with Avid (as primary) Final Cut 7, Final Cut X (for practice, didn't have to use it for a job yet), and Premiere (just in case)
I am a final cut child who grew up on it and love it however everything I am doing in last few years is on AVID...
Have a second monitor..
I am very portable and rest of the gear I usually get where ever I work at.. I am looking into getting a good broadcast monitor connected with AJA thunderbolt..
Like I said this is very open question, there is no (BEST) it all depends what you will be doing.. If you get AVID (which can do everything, however is cluncky as **** and counter intuitive) but you are only cutting wedding videos and short format stuff, it would be an overkill galore.. Just get FCP X in that case... Simple,easy, one app...
Be more specific and you will get clearer answers..

What Is The Best Setting To Use To Import Music?Please Help.

Hi, All
I have got an 80GB Apple Video iPod And I am still trying to figure out how to work it as I am new to using iPods.
What is the best setting to use to import CD Music and Music from the Internet to iTunes?? as I would like to listen to the highest quality there is on iTunes and my 80GB Apple Video iPod.
The settings are: ACC Encoder, AIFF Encoder, Apple Lossless Encoder, MP3 Encoder, WAV Encoder. If you have not got them to hand.
Many Thanks For Reading This And Replying To It, Much Appreciated!!
I Hope You All Have a VERY Merry New Year!!
Kind Regards, Rocky Robin

There really is no BEST setting. The "best" setting is the one that sounds the best to you.
Having said that, you also asked what setting provides the highest quality audio. In that case, you need to use a lossless format, such as AIFF, WAV, or Apple Lossless. MP3 and AAC are both compressed formats, and will not provide as good of an audio quality as a lossless format.
My personal preference would be Apple Lossless, but any of the lossless formats will produce an almost identical quality to the CD track.
Keep in mind, the files will be quite large.

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

It is now confirmed that iWeb, and iDVD, has been discontinued by Apple. This is evidenced by the fact that new Macs are shipping with iLife 11 installed but without iWeb and iDVD.
On June 30, 2012 MobileMe will be shutdown. However, iWeb will still continue to work but without the following:
Features No Longer Available Once MobileMe is Discontinued:
◼ Password protection
◼ Blog and photo comments
◼ Blog search
◼ Hit counter
◼ MobileMe Gallery
All of these features can be replaced with 3rd party options.
I found that if I published my site to a folder on my hard drive and then uploaded with a 3rd party FTP client subscriptions to slideshows and the RSS feed were broken. If I published directly from iWeb to the FPT server those two features continued to work correctly.
There's another problem and that's with iWeb's popup slideshows. Once the MMe servers are no longer online the popup slideshow buttons will not display their images.
Click to view full size
However, Roddy McKay and I have figured out a way to modify existing sites with those slideshows and iWeb itself so that those images will display as expected once MobileMe servers are gone. How to is described in this tutorial: #26 - How to Modify iWeb So Popup Slideshows Will Work After MobileMe is Discontinued.
It now appears that the iLife suite of applications offered on disc is now a discontinued product and the remaining supported iApps will only be available thru the App Store from now on. However, the iLife 11 boxed version that is still available at the online Apple Store (Store button at the top of the page) and those still on the shelves of retailers will include iWeb and iDVD. Those two apps were listed in small, gray text on the iLife 11 box that I bought.
Personally, if I didn't already have a copy I would purchase one to have it for reinstallation purposes if ever needed.
This might be of some interest to you at this time: Life After MobileMe.
OT

What is the best setting for export movie in widescreen format?

Please tell me what is the best setting for exporting movie in Widescreen format?

Like in After effect we use "NTSC D1 Widescreen Square Pixel".,
Carefully examine the codec and pixel dimensions of that output file. That's certainly easy for an experienced VFX person like yourself.
Then carefully look over the presets in FCP to find the same attibutes. You can also use the online help system for FCP and search for "D1"
However, your question remains unanswerable because we don't know how you're getting to the monitor. What are you playing back you AE sequences on that displays them on your LCD? You're assuming we know what you're doing and, I assure you, we do not.
bogiesan

What's the best set up with AppleTV and Mac Mini with 2TB external HD?

Hi
I have an Apple TV and 2TB external HD connected to my Mac Mini.
I want to stream through my Mac Mini and I want all my media stored in my external HD.
What's the best setting so that I sync only one way to my external HD the contents of my Apple TV? I don't want anything except unwatched media on my Apple TV.
I'm fairly new to Mac world and Apple TV, as far as I read iTunes and Apple TV sync both ways,how do I achieve a one way sync to my Mac Mini with external HD?
Many thanks

ali akidil wrote:
Ok that makes it clear, sorry I used wrong terminology,it should have been transfer rather than sync.
You don't want to stop transfers of purchased content. See This User Tip
While on the subject a friend of mine told me that the streaming videos doesn't work well,it kinda freezes and stops but the music stream is fine. Is that true or his set up is wrong?
It's not necessarily his configuration set up that's wrong, it's probably that he has a poor network by virtue of too great a distance or interference from other networks or other household equipment.

What is the best set hard drive set up on an iMac for video editing?

what is the best set hard drive set up on an iMac for video editing? i only have one internal 2tb hard drive.

CIANCIO.mov wrote:
so is it best to edit directly off your LaCie fire wire drive, or off the internal HD and store on the external?
The second.
Which one is faster to edit with?
The internal will operate faster but editing uses both the Final Cut Application (on the internal), and the external which is used to store and access the video that you have shot and on which is stored the Capture Caches, and which also stores and accesses the various other caches such as Video Render, Waveform etc.
Does a faster hard drive decrease rendering time?
I think it must, but I have never timed it.
whats Faster, having another internal drive or a thunderbolt or firewire 800 external drive?
I think that a second internal drive would be faster than an external Firewire drive. However, a Thunderbolt drive is said to be very fast, but I do not know whether it would be faster than a conventional internal drive. This question would best be asked of the Final Cut Discussion Groups because thay might have experience.
i would love some specs, and input on different drive setups for an imac with a single 2TB Hard dirve.
Again, the discussion groups would be the best place to answer this.
enyone. thanks,
Rendering long sections of video in the Final Cut software does take a long time, especially when it is imported from another source, such as a .mov, and when something simple like a transition is inserted or even moved or altered, or a filter is applied, rendering must be carried out in that area to see the effect properly. So you are on the right lines in thinking about how to speed it up.

HT4818 What is the best Partition size for a windows 7 Home Premium. I'm trying to install Windows using Boot camp

What is the best Partition size for a windows 7 Home Premium. I'm trying to install Windows using Boot camp

Go into your system preferences and click the startup disk icon then select your Mac HD.

What is the best file converter for Panasonic HC-X900M camcorder for use on Final Cut Pro X?

What is the best file converter for Panasonic HC-X900M Camcorder Mts files for use with Final Cut Pro?

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If you get the latest update for fcpx, it will handle video shot in 60P. That is 10.0.4
Here is what Apple says it supports, and one version of the 900 seems to be supported.
I think the Apple site is a little behind its own software update, as one advantage of the new update is that it handles 60P.
Maybe I am missing something, but I wonder what would happen if you get the latest update for fcpx, and try your card again. I did find that fcpx now supports my sony dslr at 60P.
Here is a thread with one person saying they can now use their 900.
Hugh

What is the best DVD Creator for a Mac Book Pro to replace iDVD?

What is the Best DVD Creator for a Mac Book Pro to replace iDVD? Have Maverick OS.

I have already looked at other threads in this forum, so 'I venture forth' to ask my question here:
I have a 44 minute carefully edited iMovie with several chapter markers. I dimly recollect that when you 'dump' the entire movie into iDVD (my version is 7.1) it should detect the markers and create buttons to link to specific scenes. Well, the 'dumping' process obviously doesn't work.
How do you get iDVD to recognize the markers and ceate buttons to link?
I can create with iDVD a DVD that will play the movie in its entirety. This is not suitable for my purposes. I need access via a menu to specific scenes.
Thank you,
Klaus

What is the best security package for an imac using yosimity

What is the best security package for an imac using Yosimity

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best workflow procedure for importing DV SP 16x9 footage into FCP7 and then exporting the best quality 16x9 to standard DVD so that it looks great (or at least good) on a 50" Samsung LCD TV ?????? Please help! anybody?? Thanks!

We are using a Sony HDV-Z7U camera for acquisition. We recently recorded an event using the camera's non HD capabilities. We set the camera to record "DV SP" 16x9 settings on both Mini-DV tape and CF card.
To import the DV SP footage into FCP7 we chose the "DV NTSC anamorphic" setting in the log and transfer settings window. After a successful transfer from the CF card (the CF card held approximately 83 minutes) we checked the size of the file and found it to be 16 Gigs! Why so big? An 83 miniDV tape shot in SD should easily fit on a standard 4.7 gig MPEG2 DVD.
We need to burn DVDs of this show - we sent it to compressor and got horrible quality.
What is the best setting to use in FCP7's log and transfer settings window to import DV SP 16x9 standard def. footage and what is the best method for exporting for outputting this footage to DVD that preserves the original quality of the DV SP footage?? Anyone? Many thanks

> Why so big? An 83 miniDV tape shot in SD should easily fit on a standard 4.7 gig MPEG2 DVD.
No it doesn't. DV is 13GB per hour.
In any case, a Video DVD uses the MPEG 2 codec, not DV.
>What is the best setting to use in FCP7's log and transfer settings window to import DV SP 16x9 standard def.
DV NTSC anamorphic.
>what is the best method for exporting for outputting this footage to DVD...
Use the Compressor DVD preset "Best Quality 90 mins".
>...that preserves the original quality of the DV SP footage?
Not going to happen, you are compressing by a factor of 1:4. Shooting as HDV would have given you better quality material to start with. DV is at the bottom end of the scale.

What is the best compression choice for importing audio?

Hi
What is the best setting for importing audio into itunes?
thnx

There is no "best", it depends on what is important to you.
If you want the same fidelity as the CD use AIFF, but this will result in very large files and reduce the number of songs you can put on your iPod.
If you want more songs on your iPod use 128 AAC. I wouldn't go any smaller for music.
If you want a compromise try Apple Lossless. Keep in mind if you have a Shuffle that Apple Lossless files won't work on that device.

What is the best air printer for the iPad 3

What is the best air printer for iPad 3?

I don't have a home office - nor do I have any experience in printers the way some reviewers do. When it comes to printing, all I care is that it actually prints and doesn't jam.
Printers are so inexpensive these days and my old printer was a great Cannon that did it's job - cost about 80 bucks when I purchased. Then I bought an iPad and tried ALL the free printing apps - and even paid for an app that swore it would work with any printer. NOPE.
So, when this printer came up to test - I jumped on it! WOW. Not only is it so easy to set up, even I can do it (didn't even need the disk). It prints anywhere from my iPad and my iPhone. I also love the double sided printing and never realized how much double siding printing I actually do. It's great for long recipes. The photo aspect of it is sharp and clear. I LOVE The scanner and though I rarely use a fax - it's nice to know it's available so I don't have to drive to my local media store. For the price - it's amazing.
It's also super fast compared to my Cannon and super quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091DPYDU

Using iDVD 3, what is the best set up for faster encoding?

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