Using layers to combine color photo over lined paper - color loss

I'm trying to do a guest book design for my mom's wedding. I have a photo that I want to combine over lined paper (created w/ Word and scanned. Saved as PDF). I was going to change the opacity of the photo to make it lighter while also bringing in the lines of the image below. I renamed the photo so it was no longer background, selected it, copied and pasted over my white, lined image and the color photo then became a grainy black and white. Alternatively, I could have put the photo over a white background and changed the opacity to lighten it and then drawn lines on the image but this did not work as the lines did not come out uniform. Would really appreciate help!!! I have a couple of PSE books but am still stuck. I'm using PSE 12.
Thanks!

Assuming your lined image is black lines on white background, place the lined image above the picture in the Layers Palette. Change the Opacity of the lined image to Multiply. The lines will appear and the picture unchanged.
This is an old version of PSE so my Layers Palette will look different from yours, but the result should be the same.
Is this what you are trying to do?

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Photoshop elements 12 using layers to edit a photo

I am having trouble figuring out how to use layers to edit digital photographs. Based on the online tutorials I've viewed, I'm under the impression that in order to edit parts of a photograph without affecting the original background image, I am supposed to create a layer for each set of edits I want to make and then merge these layers together to form a complete edited image with all the touch ups I want to make. I am also under the impression that any edits I make to the layers I create should not be showing up in the original background image, otherwise I have no way of comparing the original to the edited parts of the image to see if everything looks the way I want. Is there any way to make edits to image layers without these changes showing up in the original image and if so, how do I do it? Thanks ahead of time for your help.
Anthony

I suggest you select Help> Key Concepts and read up on Layers.
The simplest way to preserve your original image is to either save a copy and work on that, or duplicate the background layer and work on the duplicate plus other layers you stack on top. Then the quickest way to view original v edited is to Alt-Click on the eye symbol of the background layer - this will turn off all the other layers. Alt-Click the eye again to turn them all back on.
Cheers,
Neale
Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children
If this post or another user's post resolves the original issue, please mark the posts as correct and/or helpful accordingly. This helps other users with similar trouble get answers to their questions quicker. Thanks.

How can i combine a b/w photo with a color photo? [was: Photoshop 5.5]

How can i combine a b/w photo with a color photo?

Edit the color document. Then Copy, or Place or Paste in the Grayscale image and mask the BW to create a composit.

Can layers be used to further edit a photo in Elements after editing in LR? [was:Tacoma Grandma]

Is there a way to use layers to further edit a photo in Elements after editing in Lightroom?

The "Edit In" option of Lightroom is the usual way. This creates a new image that PS / Elements can work with. The starting image and the new image (showing the results of your editing, once those are saved) both then appear in Lightroom.
Exporting does not pair up LR and Elements (or other image editing program) in quite the same easy and transparent way.
As to the Layers query: probably the most usual format chosen for external editing is TIFF, but PSD is also used. Both preserve any layers intact when saved (unlike JPG) allowing returning to a layered file for further editing in the future. These editing files include a further fullsize preview, if layered (this is unnecessary for a flattened file, in which case LR can just read that Background layer directly).
The preview is a losslessly compressed full colour bitmap, updated at each time of saving, representing the then-current combined appearance of the "layer stack" as seen within Elements.
Lightroom cannot understand about whatever pixel and adjustment layers, layer interactions and effects etc the file may contain - but it doesn't need to, because it can look at the "compatibility" preview instead.
RP

I have manipulated a photo using layers etc and then flattened it and saved it under a new name. When I use 'Preview' (mac) to view the finished photo it doesn't look right. It's as the layers have not flattened correctly. When viewed in Elements 12 it

I have manipulated a photo using layers etc and then flattened it and saved it under a new name. When I use 'Preview' (mac) to view the finished photo it doesn't look right. It's as the layers have not flattened correctly. When viewed in Elements 12 it looks OK. The photo looks incorrect in other software such as photo books.
Looking at the same photo before flattening, what is being shown is only the top layer.
How do I correct this?

STEVEN1A wrote:
I have manipulated a photo using layers etc and then flattened it and saved it under a new name. When I use 'Preview' (mac) to view the finished photo it doesn't look right. It's as the layers have not flattened correctly. When viewed in Elements 12 it looks OK. The photo looks incorrect in other software such as photo books.
Looking at the same photo before flattening, what is being shown is only the top layer.
How do I correct this?
The top layer is indeed the one that is visible, unless there is/are area(s) of translucency on that layer, so that you can visualize a portion of the subjacent layer.
the finished photo it doesn't look right. It's as the layers have not flattened correctly.
Are your settings targeted to have the printer manage colors, or, to have PSE manage colors?

I am unable to print color photos from i photo using a Brother Printer

I am unable to print color photos from i photo using a Brother MFC-6490CW all in one. The photos appear to be in grayscale. I have checked the printer settings, but for some reason I am not able to access the color management on my printer from printer set up. It only gives me the standard option. I have spent hours checking Bother's website and Apple's and I am not able to come up with a valid answer. I know that the color print works. If I print something from the internet of from outlook it will print in color. I know all of my cartridges are in working order, I have cleaned the print head on my Brother, but I am still not able to print photos in color!!!
What puzzles me the most is why I am unable to really access the color management menu on my printer? It just does not come up. I have the option from paper handling to print photos, but this has nothing to do with the quality. I have also tried printing the photo from an Adobe PDF file and I still have the same problem. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thank you.

In the Print dialogue box click on the little triangle to the right of the name of the printer. That will expand the dialogue box.

Book Module Lightroom 4 -- can I use a color picker to pick a color from a photo to use as the backg

I am trying to match a background color for a page in a Blurb book using the Lightroom 4 Book Module. Is there any way I can use the color picker to pick a color from the photo to use as the color for the background and as the type color? I see the color box for these situations, but the color picker only seems to work with the color array that pops up and doesn't go to the photo. Any suggestions? Am I overlooking something very obvious?

It works for me.
The usual Lightroom way: click the eyedropper onto the color palette first, then hold and drag to your photo to sample color.

I am trying to print a color photo on my MacBook Pro from iPhoto (not using Photoshop) using Epson 2200 printer, and everything I do in the Color Matching and Print Settings results in a photo with a pink cast to it. What am I doing wrong?

I am trying to print a color photo on my MacBook Pro from iPhoto (not using Photoshop) using Epson 2200 printer, and everything I do in the Color Matching and Print Settings results in a photo with a pink cast to it. What am I doing wrong?

Have you checked the ink cartridges and made sure the nozzles are clear? Are you able to print from outside of iPhoto with the correct color?
Try the following: make temporary copy of the library and do the following:
1 - delete the iPhoto preference file, com.apple.iPhoto.plist, that resides in your
User/Home()/Library/ Preferences folder.
2 - delete iPhoto's cache file, Cache.db, that is located in your
User/Home()/Library/Caches/com.apple.iPhoto folder.
3 - launch iPhoto and try again.
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OT

TS3697 Many of my photos over 3,000 pixels will not sync. I'm using latest updated iTunes and iOS.

Several of my large file size photos (over 3,000 pixel width) will mot sync, or sync but show different photos. Using latest updated iOS and iTunes software.
After several calls, finally had sr. Tech support advise that there is a bug. I have Windows 7 64 bit.
When will this be fixed?

Close your iTunes,
Go to command Prompt -
(Win 7/Vista) - START/ALL PROGRAMS/ACCESSORIES, right mouse click "Command Prompt", choose "Run as Administrator".
(Win XP SP2 n above) - START/ALL PROGRAMS/ACCESSORIES/Command Prompt
In the "Command Prompt" screen, type in
netsh winsock reset
Hit "ENTER" key
Restart your computer.
If you do get a prompt after restart windows to remap LSP, just click NO.
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iTunes 10.5 for Windows: May see performance issues and blank iTunes Store
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4123?viewlocale=en_US

I have been using Lightroom 4.4 successfully for over 2 years. Just tried to import some new photos after a vacation and the application crashes when I click "import" every time. Tried restarting computer. Version says it is up to date.

I have been using Lightroom 4.4 successfully for over 2 years. Just tried to import some new photos after a vacation and the application crashes when I click "import" every time. Tried restarting computer. Version says it is up to date.
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Thanks for the response. The application was crashing. A Windows message was displayed showing "Lightroom.exe has stopped working", "Windows can check online for a solution the problem.". Etc.
I just launched Lightroom to check the exact message for this reply - and the Import worked. It had failed dozens of times before.

Does Photoshop Elements 11 allow you to use layers to edit and/or merge photos?

I'm looking into purchasing my first photoshop product. I have used Photoshop CC twice and loved what I was able to do with it; however, I don't want to spend approximately $700 when I'm just beginning. People have asked me to do portraits for them similiar to one I did of my children, but it requires merging and editing the pictures with layers. I know Photoshop Lightroom does not have the ability to use layers. Can anyone help me? Thank you.

Thank you very much. I've just gotten into photograpny within the past 1 1/2 years. I've used Picasa , but I've outgrown it. Again, thank you very much for your help.

How to overlay color image over a grayscale image without IMAQ?

I would like to display a color image over a grayscale image; I would like the color image look translucent. How would I do this without using IMAQ functions? I am currently displaying my grayscale image using Intensity Graph.

> I would like to display a color image over a grayscale image; I would
> like the color image look translucent. How would I do this without
> using IMAQ functions? I am currently displaying my grayscale image
> using Intensity Graph.
Transparency and overlays are really just arithmetic on the images. It
is either done by the windowing system or by you. At the moment you
can't set transparency on LV controls. You can set it on LV floating
windows on some OSes, but then you will need to have the windows lined up.
A more direct approach is to lighten or darken the color image elements
based upon whether they will display over white, black, or a shade of
gray. If the images don't have the same size pixels, this will have a
first step of resampling th
e images so they do. Then combine the pixels
using the transparency you were going to apply to the color and the
shade of gray beneath it. I'm being vague here because there are lots
of physical models for combining colors.
If I look in my paint program I see about fifteen, so this is where you
get to make a choice and decide if black behind a red pixel is black, or
dark red. It all depends on whether these are two transparent
images(acetate sheets) backlit, or is it a transparency over a
nontransmitting media like paper. Anyway, if you can be more specific
about what you want, none of this is hard, typically just scaling the
int32s, adding, and some sort of normalization.
Greg McKaskle

Does anyone know how the cutout filter works and is there a way of achieving the same effect without using filters to get more control over final look?

does anyone know how the cutout filter works and is there a way of achieving the same effect without using filters to get more control over final look?

Several ways to get similar results. Image > Adjustments > Posturize with low values similar to what you'd use n Cutout. This is the most flexible way I can think of as you keep the image in RGB mode with layers intact. A more radical approach would be to reduce bit depth using Indexed Colour. You'll need to experiment with settings, try changing Forced to Primaries, and Matte to Foreground Color. There's no going back from this route, although you can change the mode back to RGB to re-enable layers, adjustment layers etc.
A nice thing about the Filter gallery filters is that you can change the layer to a Smart object with all the control that gives you.
Now if only this forum could filter out bizarre content.

Does duplicating layers from an 8-bit PSD reduce the color depth of a new 16-bit edit?

I have been using several versions of Photoshop over the years starting with CS3, then CS6, and finally CC. Through 2012, all my RAW files were converted using 16-bit color depth in ACR. However, in examining my files recently, I noticed all were in 8-bit color-depth, which likely happened once I upgraded to CS6 and ACR left 8-bit as the default. As such, I now have hundreds of images that I wanted to edit in 16-bits that have been converted to 8-bit starting with my ACR export. The files are all RAWs from cameras like the Canon 5D, 5D Mark III, Olympus OMD EM5, and Sony RX100.
I have 8-bit PSDs of my edits of these files which contains multiple layers. I use features from the Nik and Topaz collections for noise reduction, contrast enhancement, black and white conversion, and sharpening. I also use layered Photoshop features like Selective Color. I want to know if I can simply duplicate the layers from the 8-bit PSD files onto a new 16-bit RAW converted background layer rather than re-edit each and every file. There would be no change in the crop of other reasons why the layers would not match up, but I am concerned that duplicating those layers might throw away the benefit of moving to 16-bit since they were created in an 8-bit color-depth.
As a test, I looked at a few files where I had pushed the shadows and colors to an extent and duplicated the layers from an 8-bit conversion to a 16-bit conversion and could see no difference. I am not sure if this is because Photoshop has become very good at reducing color-depth without a perceptible difference or if I am throwing away information in moving the layers.
I work off of a fairly modern computer and a top-end Eizo CG276 self-calibrating monitor and good video card. I am extremely sensitive to color and shade changes as well.
Thanks for any help, I am a bit stressed at the thought of re-editing hundreds of files from step 1, but it is important to me that I not throw away color information and it is better I start re-editing now rather than years from now.
Ketan

While raw file contain a 8Bit jpeg previews image in some color space. The RAW sensor data is not a color image and has no color space and the bit dept of pixels depend on the manufacturing. Most sensor produce one value for each pixel 10 to 14 bit seems to be common. Sensors only measure the light intensity not color. If front of each pixel sensor is a color filter which lets Red or Green or Blue light be measured for intensity.
A RAW converter can convert your sensors RAW data into a color RGB image in any color work-space in 8 or 16 bit color depth. No Adobe update went around and scanning your computer looking for 16bit color depth images and convert all of them to 8bit color. Your ACR workflow settings may have been change from 16 bit color to 8 bit color by you or set to 8bit by some update or script used. So you current ACR work-flow setting may be converint tou raw datya into 8bit RGB images. As long as you have you raw files you can reprocess these to produce 16Bit color RGB Image by makinf the proper ACR work-flow settings. You can also change your 8bit image to 16 bit image mode. However this will not recover any color quality lost or posterization that has set in.. It will give you a bit more latitude using Photoshop filters which may help you not get banding posterization.

Black and White photo with splash of color

I just bought photoshop elements yesterday. I'm completely new to this and I want to know how to make a photo turn b/w, but keep a point of color,ex: a red hair bow but everything else b/w.

Another way is to create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer over your photo. (It's one of the choices that is found on your layer's pallet under the black and white icon.) This will create an adjustment that can be masked.
Double click the adjustment layer with "Master" selected and move the saturation slider to -100. Once this is done you can use the paint brush to paint back color. (Black hides the adjustment; white reveals the adjustment; shades of gray provide a partial adjustment.)
I think the mask option is preferable to using the eraser because you can easily go back and refine the image if you make a mistake. It also gives you the opportunity to change your mind without having to start from scratch. Another advantage is that your image will have a smaller file size.
You can also use filters that work in gray scale on the mask. One useful one is Gaussian Blur. I like to paint my selection edges with a hard edged brush then soften (feather) the edges with the Gaussian filter. The Maximum and Minimum filters are useful if you need to expand or contract the mask edge a little.
If you want to have more control over the black and white adjustment, use the pull down menu in the Hue/Saturation adjustment dialog to select each color; reduce each of the colors to -100 Saturation; then go back and adjust the "lightness" slider of each color to taste.
HTH,
Terri

Using layers to combine color photo over lined paper - color loss

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