Using Quartz debug to take high res screenshots?

I have version 10.7.5 and can't change the UI resolution. Anyone know what do to?

Hi, yes I know that but since I was the Quartz debug is in the developer tools is I didnt know where else to go, I have heard from someone else though and apparently its not possible to take high res screenshots in later versions. Thanks for your help though.

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Quartz Debug (Developer Tool)

I downloaded and tried to use Quartz Debug, a developer tool (not actually included in Xtools: I downloaded it as a stand-alone).
My goal was to improve screen resolution on screenshots (for use in KeyNote). It seems to have corrupted my system (not sure: did a clean reinstall eventually). Has anyone had experience iwth this program? Is it safe or unsafe to use? (I assume it modifies the system: I thought it would only do a temporary modification).
It could be that you need to download XTools first then run the program (it never responded correctly for me).
And it could be that I should be in the Developer Forum, but I don't have permission to post in the appropriate group.
Many thanks. JIP

The developer's tools are on your Tiger DVD, you don't need to download them unless you want to download the update to the most recent version. The Quartz Debug tool is not part of CHUD.

Off-line Beta SP back to Online High Res???

I've been told that only in AVID can you capture from BETA SP and offline, then go back ONLINE using reference files to a high res. output. Can this be done in Final Cut Pro? If so, how?

The option for "Create Offline" is like an Avid decompose. It will create a new sequence and new clips, permitting you to recapture the media at your new higher res.

Macbook Pro 15" high-res 1440 x 900 setting using SwitchResX

Hi,
I have Macbook Pro wiht15" high-res display. But I seems I can set the 1440x900 resolution by default option. There is only 1440x852... thouth I can't understand it.
Anyway, someone seems to enable 1440 x 900 resolution with SwitchResX. I also tried to do it. But I can't make it because I have no information the timing parameter. So Is there someone have the information for 1440x900 resolution?
Thanks in advance!

Hi,
I have Macbook Pro wiht15" high-res display. But I seems I can set the 1440x900 resolution by default option. There is only 1440x852... thouth I can't understand it.
Anyway, someone seems to enable 1440 x 900 resolution with SwitchResX. I also tried to do it. But I can't make it because I have no information the timing parameter. So Is there someone have the information for 1440x900 resolution?
Thanks in advance!

How to I get high res thumbnail images?

Just discovered once I've imported images into my library Aperture 3.2.2 (running under 10.7.3) doesn't render high res thumbnail images (when the Browser Thumbnail Resize slider is set to the far right/maximum), even though my "Previews" preference settings are as follows:
"Use embedded JPEG from camera when possible" is unchecked
"Don't Limit" for Photo Preview is selected
Photo Preview quality set to 10
Deleting and regenerating thumbnails doesn't solve the issue. However, if I delete the photo from the referenced library, then reimport the image, the browser thumbnail image renders sharp. The low res thumbnail is at left; high res thumbnail (after re-import) is at right. Both thumbnails images are sharp when the Browser Thumbnail Resize slider is positioned in the middle. Photos render sharp in the Viewer, regardless.
Going back through my images, it seems Aperture stopped providing a sharp thumbnail image since around July 2010. Other than updating Aperture, my workflow or supported camera hasn't changed. Couldn't find a reference to this issue in the User Manual. Am I missing something a setting somewhere?
Thanks,
Eric

Its unclear if the command Generate Thumbnails actually does anything if the thumbs already exist and as there isn;t a Delete Thumbnails command like there is a Delete preview command there are only two ways to force a new thumb to be generated.
One is to import the image again and two is to delete the Thumbnail folder in the Aperture library. I don;t know for sure if this will fix you problem but as I said it is the only way to force the generation of the thumbs.
If you try this make sure you have a good working backup of the library. Nothing here will normally cause data loss but it is always a good idea before messing with the library.
Quit Aperture, Highlight the library in the Finder and right click, Select show package contents. One fo the folders you'll see is Thumbnails, delete it. Open Aperture.
Also be aware that the regeneration of the thumbs will take some time. Depending on the size of the library it could be an all day affair. Aperture is usable while this is going on but it will be slower.

How do you change an iphoto size to 300DPI high res for exporting

How do you change an iphoto to 300 DPI high res for exporting to email?

Short answer: the dpi is set when you decide what size you're printing at.
Long Answer: Dpi means nothing in the digital world of your computer. There are no "inches" to have "dots per..." Size is measured in pixels. That's the same on your camera. It doesn't take 10 x 8 or 6 x 4 shots. It takes shots measured in megapixels. For instance 4,000 x 3,000 is a 12 megapixel camera.
Using that example, that shot from that camera has 12 million pixels. So that's how many "Dots" there are. To decide the ratio of dots per inch, you now need to decide the "inches" part. And that's printing. Print at 10 x 8 and the dpi will be 4,000/10 or about 400 dpi. At 6 x 4 then it's 4,000/6 or 660 dpi. Work the other way: Print at 300 dpi and the resulting image will be about 13 inches on the longer side.
So, your photo as a fixed number of pixels. Changing the dimensions of the print will vary the dpi, changing the dpi will vary the dimensions of the print.
For more see http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/mythdpi.html
To export: File -> Export.
Regards
TD
Regards
TD

Is there any way to get a glass cover for my high res anti glare display?

This may sound silly but I wasn't expecting the high res anti glare macbook pro to not have a glass cover over it. to many this might not be an issue, but I need to be able to use a digital drawing pen over top the surface of my monitor. My previous macbook was the first of the unibodies from 2008 and that works fine. But I guess I should have gone with the hi res glossy. So are there any solid screen protectors available or am I going to have to see about returning this computer. :|

jkrell wrote:
This may sound silly but I wasn't expecting the high res anti glare macbook pro to not have a glass cover over it. to many this might not be an issue, but I need to be able to use a digital drawing pen over top the surface of my monitor. My previous macbook was the first of the unibodies from 2008 and that works fine. But I guess I should have gone with the hi res glossy. So are there any solid screen protectors available or am I going to have to see about returning this computer. :|
Why don't you instead just use a piece of rounded edge glass in the rare times when your doing that?
Your one of the very few that has to actually draw on their screen, most use a drawing pad Walcom tablet, iPad or import a scan or image into Adobe Illustrator rather than hold their hand up to the screen for hours.
Don't you know you can command shift 3 or 4 to snapshot a image of anything on the screen? SnapZ Pro X will record video?
Seems to me your doing things the wrong way.
The anti-glare MacBook Pro is awesome when you take it to various places and can still see the screen and can't adust the enviroment to suit.

Editing low-res proxy, then applying changes to high-res

Hello
I'm developing one continuous image for a large wall that will be seen from about 1-2 feet viewing distance. It has to be about 100 dpi.
My image is currently 21,600 x 8100 pixels at 8 bits CMYK. It may get bigger. I don't have to do much manipulation, but a lot of it is using brushes and the smudge tool.
2 issues:
1) I have a 12-core Mac Pro with 24GB RAM. The smudge tool is sloooooow when working on this image (like one smudge at max brush size takes 15-20 seconds to take effect).
2) IS there a "warp mesh" tool that I can use in place of the smudge tool?
Is there a way for me to edit a lower-resolution version of this image, then apply the changes I made to the high-res version? then I can use the smudge and brush tools and finessé my work without the machine bogging down, and the imagery will look correct. I'm looking for a way to use these tools more in real time while working with this big image.

This appears to be the solution (at least, it is for me). I can apply my changes to the low-resolution proxy by saving the mesh and then applying that same mesh to the high-resolution image. The large brush sizes (in comparison to the image resolution) that I am afforded in the low-res version are brought across to the high-res because the changes are not applied as brush strokes, but rather as alterations to an overall mesh. the changes to the mesh are what is transferred when I export and import.
Applying the mesh is pretty slow, and it requires a few tweaks at the high-res level, but it gets me 95% of the way there. I think this is workable.
To recap - here are the steps:
1) I make a low-resolution version of the image (like 1200px wide)
2) I make my edits to the image using Liquify
3) before committing the Liquify changes, I "Save Mesh" in the Liquify tool
4) I open my high-resolution image
5) I use liquify, but I do not use any brushes, but in stead load my saved mesh from the low-res
6) profit.
thanks for the help folks!
--------------S

I have added photos to a portfolio website I'm building and a lot of them look VERY grainy when you click on them. They are nice clean large files and can print bat high res way over 16" x 20" so whats happened to them in iWeb?

I have added photos to a portfolio website I'm building and a lot of them look VERY grainy when you click on them. They are nice clean large files and can print bat high res way over 16" x 20" so whats happened to them in iWeb?

When you are dealing with websites, image file size is a trade off between quality and download speed. There's not a lot of point to having high quality images if they take too long to download in the browser.
Nowadays we also have to consider the device that the end user is viewing the images on. An image that is optimized for viewing on a large screen is total overkill and unsuitable for those using mobile devices.
Really we should be supplying different versions of media files for different devices using @media rules in the stylesheet but this is rather outside of the scope of iWeb. If you use the built in image optimizer and the iWeb Photo template with slideshow, the application will optimize the images according to the way in which you set this function in preferences and the slideshow size will be automatically reduced for those viewing it on smaller screens.
If you want to give your viewers the opportunity to view large, high quality images, you can supply them as a download.

I have a new MBP with high-res display, and the color seems washed out compared to my old MBP. Is this normal?

Putting the two laptops side by side, blacks on my old machine look dark grey on the new one. I also have 24" and 27" cinema displays, and the new high res laptop display looks washed out in comparison.
I have tried to recalibrate the screen color settings, but this doesn't seem to make much difference.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
David.

Yes, the gamma settings are the same on all 4 displays (my two laptops and the two displays).
After a little experimentation, I think that it's down to the brightness of the high resolution display. It would seem that it is slightly dimmer than the low-res one on my other 15" MBP, so I think that Apple have set the default colour profile to be slightly washed out to compensate. If I use the same profile on the high-res MBP screen as on the low-res MBP screen, then the colour is much better.
The cinema displays are a lot better than the laptop displays, but I was expecting the new high-res display to be as good as the old low-res one - especially as I paid a lot more money for it!
Ah well! I think I might take it into the store and just check that it is the norm for this...
Thanks for your help.

Making High Res YouTube videos from Keynote

Using the "export" function, how can I make high-resolution videos to take advantate of YouTube's better resolution functionality? I'm baffled by all the options and settings and don't know which setting to use to be able to upload the right video format to YouTube so it will play in High-Res.

Use the Custom format with Fixed Timing on the transitions. Set the video codec to be H.264, 30 fps, and make the size 640 x 480. Use AAC for the audio at 44.1 kHz and 128 kbps stereo. This should look very good in the new higher-rez option.

Confused between best/high-res export from FCP

Oh the pain of making stuff up as you go along!! I need to say that since what I am about to ask may sound incredibly amature, but then again, that's what I am.
I use FCP6, and usually send my timeline straight to Compressor and choosing "DVD:Best Quality 90 minutes." Now being the amature I am, I just went for the option with the "Best" in it. My videos look great, but now I am getting a question from a client asking if their dvd will be in High Res? This made me carefully inspect my settings in FCP which are as follows:
Frame Size: 1920 x 1080 (HDTV 1080i (16:9))
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square
Field Dom: Upper (Odd)
Editing Timebase: 29.97
QuickTime Video Settings
Compressor: Apple ProRes 422 (HQ)
Video Processing
Reder 10-bit material in high precision YUV
Motion filtering Quality: Best
So I want to make sure that I am providing High Res. I realize that HD is not DVD and therefore my DVD's are SD. But I want to make sure that I am giving the best under my program'(s) ability. So I've search the chat rooms and have found that some people say to export timelines via QuickTime as with Current settings and that will provide the best. However, I have heard also that I should use Compressor for this. The problem is that I realy, truly don't know which settings to choose from if I go with Compressor based on my Timeline's settings.
Finally, the really stupid part of my question(s); Is High Res considered HD, or just the highest possible with SD, or simply Blue-Ray?
And there you have it. Thank you so much in advance.
Crayton

Hey Shane, thank you for your response.
I have some follow up questions for you;
1. Do you recommend exporting my timeline as a QuickTime and then simply sending that to authoring, or QT then to Compressor or Compressor only?
2. My authoring software is DVDSP. Under the preferences, I always and obviously have it check for SD. Should I change it to HD? This is a weird question I know since there is no HD for DVD, but it confuses me further since why does this option exist in DVDSP? If I did use this option, would it make my DVD un-watchable? (if that is even a word
3. Finaly question and soon to be an issue that I am going to be faced with. I have been filming for a client for a year now and I've filmed it all in HD. They now want me to begin to prepare the videos to be broadcast on TV. The station they have been working with has told them to tell their "video guy" (me I guess) to make sure that the end result or output be in HD. I have to put together 28min and 30 sec segments each week once the show begins. Again, I've filmed, captured and edited in HD, but how do I get them their segments? And should I also export them as QuickTime Self Contained? If I did the QT, doesn't that simply take your timeline files and make them into one viewable file but not compressing them thereby leaving it in the HD format it was edited in?
Crap sorry, I decieved you.......I made it look like there was only 3 questions...........sorry:)
Thanks again man,
Crayton
ps forgive my spelling and grammar

Network Status Internal Modem not set up to Fax on PB G4 High Res

What do I need to do to set up the Internal Modem to Fax. I connect to the internet only using Airport & cable ethernet. In System Preferences > Network > Show > Network Status Airport is on top of list. Internal Modem is the only other item shown; It says Internal Modem is not set-up. I do understand that it is impossible to send a fax via Airport. But what does setting up the modem mean since I do not have or use a Dial-up internet connection. Configure button takes me to PPP, TCP/IP, Proxies, and Modem. Under the modem button I have chosen Apple Internal 56k Modem v.92 this is the only option I can choose. What can I do. I have both the Fax status and Modem status in the menu bar both stay at idle while tring to send a fax. Can anyone help?
Thanks Axlan
PowerBook G4 15' High Res Mac OS X (10.4.5) RAM 2GB, HD 100GB (7200rpm)

Sooo, what happens if you goto...
http://localhost:631/jobs
In your Browser?
I'm not certain, but I think AJ trashes those spool files.
Might have a look here...
http://safari.oreilly.com/0321335473/ch12lev1sec8

High Res/ Anti-glare display vs. New Retina

I bought (via Apple Hong Kong) my beefed-up 15" MPB with the High Resolution/ Anti Glare display last November and the quailty is outstanding.
Considering the display quality only has anyone compared the two side by side? If so, I would be curious to hear your opinions and thoughts.
Regards,
P.s I should also mention that I am an American living and working in Sai Gon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) Vietnam and although Apple products do make it here the lag time is several months, hence the inabiltiy to see for myself.

jkrell wrote:
This may sound silly but I wasn't expecting the high res anti glare macbook pro to not have a glass cover over it. to many this might not be an issue, but I need to be able to use a digital drawing pen over top the surface of my monitor. My previous macbook was the first of the unibodies from 2008 and that works fine. But I guess I should have gone with the hi res glossy. So are there any solid screen protectors available or am I going to have to see about returning this computer. :|
Why don't you instead just use a piece of rounded edge glass in the rare times when your doing that?
Your one of the very few that has to actually draw on their screen, most use a drawing pad Walcom tablet, iPad or import a scan or image into Adobe Illustrator rather than hold their hand up to the screen for hours.
Don't you know you can command shift 3 or 4 to snapshot a image of anything on the screen? SnapZ Pro X will record video?
Seems to me your doing things the wrong way.
The anti-glare MacBook Pro is awesome when you take it to various places and can still see the screen and can't adust the enviroment to suit.

Make a high res photo smaller, while keeping it high res

How can I take a high res photo into AE, size it down and keep it high res? I have to make a video where I have mutliple headshots close together.

Resolution is the number of pixels. When you scale down an image in After Effects AE cannot cram more pixels in physical space. Let me explain. I'm going to use whole numbers so the calculations are easier.
If yhour image is 3000 pixels wide and you put it in a 1500 pixel wide AE comp then AE will crop the image to 1500 pixels wide. You will only see half of the image. You can move the image around because the pixels in the image outside of AE that are not in the Composition Canvas are not lost, they are just not visible in the composition because they are cropped.
If you want to see the entire image you must scale the image down to 50%. The original 3000 pixels now become 1500 and you can see the entire image. Did you follow that? Inside the composition your image is not still 3000 pixels, it is only 1500 pixles. Half of the information in the image is thrown away. After Effects uses some complex math to try and maintain as much of the detail as it can but half of the information is lost. Your image, inside the composition is now half the resolution of the original.
If your design requires you to see the entire image without any cropping then it does no good to import an image that is 3000 or even 2000 pixels wide. Photoshop, and a bunch of other image editing applications, can do a much better job of scaling down an image that After Effects so if you want the image to have the best appearance then you should scale the image down to the composition width in something like Photoshop before you bring it into your project. AE will perform better, the image will look better, and all will be well with the world.
The second scenario in a design may be that you wanto to do a push in on an image to reveal only 1/4 of the original photo. In that case, if you started with a 3000 pixel wide photo in a 1500 pixel composition you would need to scale the image to 200% to crop the image to 1/4 of the original area. This time, After Effects will have to double the number of pixels in your image. This results in a loss of apparent detail. You would be better of importing an image that was 6000 pixels wide to start with. Here again, if the original is only 3000 pixels then there are better solutions for scaling up the image and restoring the apparent detail than AE. Photoshop does a better job and there are 3rd party solutions that can do even better.
I hope this helps you understand resolution. One more thing, PPI has nothing do do with resolution. PPI only controls the size of the image when it is printed. Here are two examples. Download them and check out the PPI in Photoshop. Both are exactly the same resolution. Drag them in to a word processing app which respects print size (ppi). You'll learn something.
Enjoy...

Using Quartz debug to take high res screenshots?

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