Using UK power supply internationally

Hi,
I have a recent (jan 2010) MBP from the UK. I will need to use this machine in Brazil, I'm wondering if I need a full step-down transformer or just a power adapter?
Any advice or experiences would be appreciated.

I've used mine all over the world and it's just fine - It'll work 110 thru 240v with just the appropriate adapter.
The only thing I would add though is that if you depend on your laptop for your trip - photos/work etc. then take a spare power supply.
I've had two pop on me when I've been in less accessible areas with poorer quality of power. Just to be clear before I get hit by the Apple boys I'm sure the issue was with local power quality rather than the units themselves.

Similar Messages

  • Can I use the power supply of 4507R into 4507R+E?

    Can I use the power supply of 4507R into 4507R+E?
    I have two old 4507R with 1300W power supply，now I want to upgrade to 4507R+E，Can I use the power supply of 4507R into 4507R+E?

    According to this Q&A you can:
    Q.    Can I use the existing Cisco Catalyst 4500 power supplies in the E-Series chassis?
    A.     Yes.
    Link:
    http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/products/collateral/switches/catalyst-4500-series-switches/prod_qas0900aecd806d8b06.html
    HTH

  • Using ThinkPad Power Supply

    I have an S10 (and really like it a lot). The input states 20v 2.0A. I have a mess of power supplies lying around for TP R51 which output 16v 4.5A. Would it be ill-advised to use said power supply?
    Thanks.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Hi, not only have the S10e, ive own an TP X32 too , i try the psu it works  16V x 4,5 72W , 20V x 2A 40W
    ...when you accidently change the psu plugs...it cant be damaged your S10 is the quintessence...
     takes only the power that S10 needs...not what psu possible gaves output.....
    Greets KalvinKlein
    Message Edited by KalvinKlein on 02-27-2009 10:23 PM
    Thinkies 2x X200s/X301 8GB 256GB SSD @ Win 7 64
    Ideas Centre A520 ,Yoga 2 256GB SSD,Yoga 2 tablet @ Win 8.1

  • Imac G5, Can I use a power supply from a G4 Q-silver (rewired connector)?

    I've got a G5 Imac with a blown PS, and I'm thinking of modifying a G4 Quicksilver power supply for use as the power source for a 20" Imac G5. Yeah, I know it sounds a bit weird, but hey, I was given this Imac G5 (1st Gen. 1.8GHz) for free. It's missing the back cover, and the PS is shot. So if I blow it up it no major loss. It's a project!
    I have determined that the original PS is shot and needs to be replaced. I don't really want to drop $140 for a replacement PS, as I would also have purchase the back cover for another $40 + shipping. Go figure, right? It appears that most of those power suppies tend to fail early, anyway.
    During my checks of the Imac internals, I also noted that during the "power on" tests, using the old power supply, I would get the second indicator light on the motherboard to flash for just a moment. According to Apple, this indicates that the motherboard is probably good, and that the power supply is bad as it's only providing a momentary voltage spike during the start up faze, before the power drains from the PS. Then it quits. So I thought, is it possible to use the QS power supply, only modifying (rewire) the main 22 pin connector voltages so they match the Imac's pinout? Both connectors are 22 pin and most of the pinout voltages match up the same. There would appear to be only two major connectors that would need to be rewired. So can I use a modified QS power supply to power my Imac?
    A couple of extra notes about this Imac:
    1) There is no back or stand with this Imac, it just the main guts. So I would need to build a suitable enclosure to maintain proper air flow, and use the QS power supply outside the Imac. That wouldn't appear to be a big problem.
    2) My biggest concern is this. The QS power supply uses 28v for the start circuits, versus 24v for the G5 Imac PS. Would this make a significant difference, and if so, why? I'm assuming it will, but it an area I'm unsure of with the Imac. Any thoughts or experiance in this area here would be greatly appreciated.
    3) Hey, if worse comes to worse, I can always purchase the extra parts and rebuild the Imac for around $200-$300 US, and it would still be a deal (at least I think so). However, at present this is just a pet project, and if it goes south (doesn't work), it's not like I'm out some major $$$$.
    Thanks in advance!

    I have no idea whether your ideas would work, but go to xlr8yourmac.com for some ideas. If you decide to purchase parts, try [http://www.synaptech.com/catalog> and also look at [http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php] for tips.
    Let us know what you end up doing,

  • HP Pavilion dv6-1355dx not turning on using AC power supply.

    1. Product Name and Number:
        VM222UA#ABA "HP Pavilion dv6-1355dx"
    2. Operating System installed (if applicable):
         Windows 7 64bit
    3. Error message (if any):
         Dose not turn-on  on AC power or charge the battery
    4. Any changes made to your system before the issue occurred:
        None
    Summary of the poroblem:
    Facts:
    1) The laptop works perfectly fine using the battery.
    2) The battery dose not charge using the AC adapter that came with the laptop.
    3) The battery dose not charge when the laptop is turned on or off.
    4) No chaging light turns on when pluged into AC.
    5) When the battery is pluged into the battery slot on the laptop, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns off.
    6)The very second I remove the battery from the computer, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns back on!
    7) With the battery removed and the AC power supply pluged into the laptop, the laptop won't turn on, and the white AC power led on the dc jack remains on.
    Tests done:
    1) Used another adapter with the laptop, but had the same problem.
    2) Used different battery, but had the same problem.
    Interesting fact:
    When the battery is completly drained out, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns on, but I still cannot turn on the laptop on AC power supply.
    Note:
    I Have a multimeter that I want to use to test the power supply and charging circuit on the motherboard, but I don't have a schamatics of the mother board, so I am stuck.
    Any suggestions from the HP community would be appriciated. Thanks.

    The laptop has a modular DC jack that plugs into the motherboard with a cable and does not require soldering. The first thing to try is a replacement of that jack. Here is the Service Manual:
    Manual
    You need this part:
    Power connector cable 533465-001
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Power-Jack-w-CABLE-HP-PAVILION-DV6-1355DX-DV6-1030US-/140598729337?pt=Lap...
    $7 on eBay, shipped.

  • Want references for using ATX power supply with MDD.

    There are references all over the place to adapting an ATX power supply for a MDD/FW800. But it would be nice to have links to as many useful ones as possible in one thread -- this one -- without too much superfluous verbiage.
    Please post links with brief descriptive comments or, if you have some hard information that's not easily linked to, please post it as concisely as possible. Hopefully, the resulting thread will be useful to many people, and not just to me.

    Watch these great YouTube videos
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xICg592xJTg
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7RDGy34tjU&feature=fvw
    Look at these links.
    http://efeion.blogspot.com/2007/12/power-supply-fun-part-2.html
    http://www.applefritter.com/node/23857
     Cheers, Tom

  • Can I use the power supply from a 1.83GHz CD mini with a new 2.53GHz mini?

    Because I'm too lazy to remove the old power supply, I just want to swap out my old mini for my new one.

    I did this for a month, for the same reason as you. Both power supplies are are 110 watts -- although you can double-check that, if you like.
    Eventually I did make the change, I guess because I didn't want to put "new wine in old skins".

  • Should i stop using this power supply??

    ok i know that i asked toooo much about my pc but forgive me i am sorry
    i searched for new Power suplly but the best is only 400 watt (+12---15a)
    so. should i use my one tell get an other or stop tell buy new one . is there any danger on my pc from using this week psu
    thanks
    my pc spec:
    pro:p4 3.2 1mb cash fsb 800
    board: Msi 865 PE NEO2 P SERIES
    VGA : HERCULES RADEON 8500
    SOUND : CREATIVE LIVE
    POWER SUPLY : 300W
    +3.3V 12A
    +12V 12A
    -12V 0.5A
    +5V 22A
    -5V 0.5A

    Let me repeat this one last time.
    You current PSU is too weak with only 300watts to spare and only 12A on +12v for a Prescott system. That's not the end. I've told you that a minimum of 18A ~ 20A is needed for any Prescott system and still you choose this 400watts with only 15A. This 15A on +12v PSU will not help out much nor long enough even if it can struggle for a few months, period at times.
    Get something like Antec 430watts TruePower or Enermax 465watts or above PSU that has met the requirements of a Power Hunger Prescott.
    Right now you situation is like trying to ask a person who's already starving from hunger to take 1 piece of bread per day and later told him that he can have a cup of water to go with the bread which isn't enough to kill the hunger as he needs more than what is provided.

  • Use of power supply in Europe

    My wife is going to Italy soon and wants to take her LifeDrive along.  She's gotten a standard 220-110 Vt transformer.  Will this work or will the 50-60 hz frequency difference mess up her Palm if she tries to charge without a frequency converter?
    Post relates to: LifeDrive

    I would suggest getting one of our travel chargers or at least looking up the specs for them. This will tell you in your converter works within the same range. 
    Post relates to: None

  • Can I use power supply from iPad for iPod

    Can I use the power supply from my iPad to charge my wife's iPod?

    Yes. That shouldn't be a problem.
    B-rock

  • Can i use HP 90 watt power supply in place of my 120 watt?

    I have an HP Elitebook 6930p, that uses a 120 watt power supply.  It's output is 18.5 volts and 6.5 Amps.
    I have another power supply that I want to use when I take my laptop home.  It is from a different HP laptop computer and is only a 90 watt power supply.  It's output is 19 volts and 4.74 Amps.  Can I use this power supply to run my laptop?  Thank you for your help.  Al

    i have hp pavillion dv6t-7000 quad edition and it has 120 watts 19.5 volts but unfortunately the charger is not working anymore,ive tried my gfs dell charger which is 90 watts 19.5 volts...its workinng on my laptop but if you play games like nba 2k13 it will gonna be so laggy or very slow....i bought 120 watts 18.5 volts smart ac adapter on amazon and its working on my laptop also but im still experiencing laggness a little bit...but its better than the 90 watts 19.5 volts of my gf...maybe that her charger makes my laptop get a lil bit slower and laggy....now im planning to reformat my laptop to put it back to its normal speed again...

  • Power supply dead? Can I get at the Hard drive?

    I recently had a storm which blew one of my external firewire drives (it goes on but won't mount) and when I tried using my older G4 (Quicksilver, with OS10.3.9, and Classic) to boot up in OS9 and try my Norton Utilities, the G4 froze. It did it several times. I eventually pulled the power cord. When I plugged it back it, there was a spark (at the plug in point on the G4, not the wall outlet. Since then, it won't power up.
    I tried booting it up in firewire disk mode and using my Intel MacPro, but no dice.
    I did a search and have seen discussion on what sounds like my same problem. I hold the power button and the light goes on, but goes right off as soon as I let go.
    I tried pressing the PMU; I saw a lot of discussion about the CUDA button but it seems these are one and the same thing. I removed the small battery and tried to get a replacement but have not succeeded as yet. Though I don't think that's the problem. It might be the power supply.
    Anyway, here's my question: can I use the power supply and/or battery from an even older Mac, a PPC 8600?
    And, whether or not that works, can I yank the hard drive from my G4, along with a second internal drive I put in (slave) in order to get data of it? (I'll give up trying to fix the G$ itself if I can just get my files off it.
    *While I'm at it, can I take apart the external firewire drive that won't mount, and get at the files on that in some way. I tried Data Rescue ll but the drive still would not mount so that was useless.
    Any help on any of these will be greatly appreciated. (Yes, I do have a nice big powerful UPS but the G4 and the external were no plugged in to it).
    Thanks
    noodle--head grrum...PY

    Hi-
    To recover your hard drives and data (including the external) get yourself a housing, and insert a drive, and move data to a different computer.
    You'll want a firewire external housing with the Oxford chipset. I can recommend any of the FW or FW combo housings by OWC on the following page:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/add-ons-and-hubs/enclosure-kits
    You will need a QS power supply-others won't work.
    If you end up wanting a power supply for the QS, check eBay, or the following:
    http://www.mac-resource.com/store.php?item=6612513.PART
    http://hardcoremac.stores.yahoo.net/pog4quposu34.html
    As for the battery, as long as it is the same 3.6v and form factor, any will do:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
    The Radio Shack P/N is 23-026.
    G4AGP(450)Sawtooth, 2ghz PowerLogix, 2gbRAM, 300gbSATA+160gbATA, ATI Radeon 9800   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   Pioneer DVR-109, ExtHD 160gb x2, 23"Cinema Display, Ratoc USB2.0, Nikon Coolscan

  • Choosing the Right Power Supply

    First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
    If you want to know more, read on...
    Choosing The Right Power Supply
    If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
    (As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
    The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
    Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
    Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
    For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
    I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
    But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
    So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
    K7N2G-ILSR
    Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
    AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
    2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
    MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
    ATI Radeon 9600
    120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
    30GB Quantum IDE
    TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
    BTC DVD-ROM Drive
    Artec CD-R/W
    Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
    I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc.  Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
    Not yet.
    I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
    Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
    Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
    However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
    I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
    Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
    The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
    So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
    Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
    You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

  • Where can I buy a replacement power supply (model VP-09500018-000) for my 1st generation Time Capsule?

    My 1st Time Capsule no longer powers on!  It was making noises for a while before it would no longer keep power / turn on!   I have taken the time capsule apart and could easily replace the power supply if I knew where to buy it   Can anyone lead me in the right direction?
    Thank you!

    Apple do not supply it as a part.
    You can repair the existing supply.
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/apple-time-capsule-repair-type2
    Plenty of people sell the caps set on ebay. Cheaper if you have a good electronics store handy but they need to be top quality low esr capacitors.
    Substitute a different kind of power supply.
    I definitely believe in using external power supply for this job. This is my own website so disclaimer. 
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/time-capsule-power-supply-repair-kits
    Or some original type are available on ebay. Just search for "Time Capsule power supply"
    Or look at what a whole second hand TC will cost you.. a Gen3 or Gen4 can be a better proposition than repairing a dead Gen1.
    You can also do a half repair.. By that I mean you only need one voltage to run the TC.. a single 5v 3A power supply plugged into the TC board socket or soldered directly in.. will give you an airport extreme Gen2 for $10. Plug the hard drive in by USB.. or use a bit of careful hacking and use a SATA cable to the post on the board and use a 2TB or even 3TB esata case.
    You can also still buy a Cisco dual voltage supply on ebay.. but the wiring of it is a bit rough.
    https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair/cisco-adp-30rb-4pin-molex

  • Power Supply for 20" g5 iMac

    I have a first gen 20" G5 iMac, but it needs a power supply. Can I use a power supply from a first gen 17" model. I actually have one of those available. Thanks.

    Hey Bennett,
    Well power wise the two supplies are very similar.
    The 20":
    +3.3 V 4A
    +5.1 V 9.8A
    +12.0 V 6.5A
    +24.0 V or +20.0Vs 0.4A
    +5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
    The 17":
    +3.3 V 3.1A
    +5.1 V 9.6A
    +12.0 V 9.2A
    +24.0 Vsb 0.33A
    +5.1 Vsb 1.5 A
    However in terms of an exact replacement, physically the differences between the two is the placement of the AC inlet socket. In the 20" it's near the right edge. In the 17" it's ~ 1" to the Left. So the locking tab indent and the socket are in the wrong place.
    I think the pinouts are identical so you should be able to electrically test the 20" but you'll never get the back on without major mods.
    I'd refer to Jim's site:
    http://jimwarholic.com/2008/11/apple-imac-g5-power-supply-issues-and.php
    He's very responsive and knowledgeable about these power supplies and you could ask him about the swap.
    There are also ATX hacks to replace the 20" supply (there are many links and pics on Jim's site) and I've done that and have used the hacked ATX supplies to verify that I have a PSU problem. I've never gotten the sleep function to work properly tho'.
    Richard
    Message was edited by: spudnuty

Maybe you are looking for