Very odd battery issue

I am having an issue with my phone where it tells me my battery is dead when it's really not
I could have say 40%~50% of battery life, take my phone out of my pocket, press the home button... Nothing, then go to hold down the power button and get the dead battery screen (the screen that shows the battery and blinking red line with the USB plug below it), issue is, the battery isn't really dead, when I plug it in, it springs to life right away, displaying it's actual battery percentage, and it works fine if I unplug it right after it boots, proving the battery isn't dead
Sometimes when I try booting it again, I can get it running again without plugging it in, this doesn't always happen though
Any reason why I would be getting the dead battery screen when my battery isn't dead?
I am updated to the latest iOS, so I know that is not the issue
I have an iPhone 5 if that matters

Try restoring the iOS, as described here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414
I would recommend you NOT restore from backup when finished, rather just sync your content back to the phone.

Similar Messages

I have a 4s runing 6.1.1 every 5minutes it promp me network lost and i have very bad battery issues lit draine so fast what should i do

I have a 4s runing 6.1.1 every 5minutes it promp me network lost and i have very bad battery issues lit draine so fast what should i do?

What have you figured out? Anything? What you show just shows a pretty quiet system except for firefox having a bunch of tabs open. You've got some page ins and outs so you maybe your'e hitting your HD with swap files more than what you think?
I think something like coconut battery app or something like it will tell you the charge cycles on the battery. How many do you have?
Lastly, are you using any extensions like ad blocker, or click to flash?

Very odd Airport issue airport has a mind of its own...

Ok so hopefully I have gotten your attention. As of 3 days ago my Macbook Pro (which has always connected to the internet through my Airport Extreme with the signal boosted by an Airport Express) so I am online reading email when I attempt to open a new page and my internet dies. I look at my other computer (Macbook not pro) sitting next to me and it is connected to the network just fine. So I go to connect to the internet again and I can see my network and yet every time I try to connect I get a message saying "error couldnt connect" or something similar to that. Then I went to make sure my settings werent changed and they weren't. So I ran a diagnostic to make sure that nothing was wrong settings-wise. And when I get to the step where I need to choose the network I want to connect to it asks for my password (been using same one for years) and I input it and it tells me the password is incorrect. Then I try it again, and again im told the password is incorrect, no caps are on im spelling it right, basically I am faultless. Then after a number of restarts and frustrated hours, out of nowhere it connects again.
So then two nights ago I am online I pick up my laptop from my bed and walk to the room next door and start to use my computer in the next room to show a friend something. I walk back into my room with the laptop and 8 minutes later the same internet issue occurs again. I try everything, the password isnt accepted anymore and then a couple of hours later it works.
So then tonight I am writing a paper and the same stupid thing happens again. This time after 3 restarts I get back online but it is still very very frustrating and I have no clue what is wrong
If anyone has any advice PLEASE im all ears

Welcome to the discussions!
The fact that things improved a bit with Interference Robustness is probably a major clue that you are experiencing wireless interference issues at your new location.
The most common cause of interference problems in a home are cordless phones, which typically operate at the same frequency as wireless networks. You need to power off the phones and their base stations / cradles for a few hours to see if you notice any improvement in the performance of your wireless network. If you do, you need to try different positions for the phones.
Please post back on your findings to take the next possible steps in identifying the probable interference issue there.

Very Odd Performance Issues

When I start up my iMac, Safari and other Apple apps that access the Internet work fine. But after a few minutes of use Safari stops loading new web pages, Mail can't receive mail, I can't connect to iTunes and I can't connect to the App Store. HOWEVER, Skype and FaceTime work fine. The only fix is to restart the computer and then I only have things working for a couple of minutes before the problem reoccurs. I have run a virus scanner which found no problem.
any idea what might be causing this bizarre behavior? Thanks in advance.

Identifying the third party system modifications that may be responsible for the behavior you describe is a process of elimination, but if you don't know where to start EtreCheck can help with that:
Apple Support Communities contributor etresoft wrote a very useful app to quickly gather certain system information that may help point to a cause of this problem. Read about it here. It contains a link to download EtreCheck. Do not download it from anywhere else (such as may be found by following the results of an Internet search).
Run EtreCheck after starting your Mac normally (not in Safe Mode). It will take a moment to run as it collects its data.
Copy and paste its output in a reply. Use its "Copy report to clipboard" button.
Do not be concerned about anything that says "Problem" or “failed” or anything else that may appear in red. Those attention-getters don't necessarily indicate anything wrong.
EtreCheck was designed to remove any personal information (such as your computer's name and serial numbers) but if you see anything that looks like an email address or any other personal information that should not be divulged to others, please delete or obscure that information when you post the reply.
When you are finished with EtreCheck, quit the program. It occupies very little space, and you can keep it or drag it to the Trash as you wish.

Very odd internet issues.

I just bought a 21.5" refurbed iMac. Worked great for a week and now for the past week or so, I cannot stay connected to either Firefox or Safari for more than 2 minutes before the browser starts "Looking up" the website and then it completely disconnects. I go into the network diagnostics while this is happening and I see that Internet and Server have orange dots next to them, then after a little while those dots turn red along with ISP's dot. I called my ISP yesterday and they said that everything on their end is good. I believe them because, I had been playing WoW and Warhammer Online since I got the computer and have played for up to three hours at a time, and I never had any disconnects or lag form the games at all. I even connected to WoW while my browser's connection was tanking to see if I could connect and I did just fine with no lag or disconnects. I even pinged some websites while this was going on and that worked as normal. Probably the oddest thing of all this, is that if I go straight from my cable modem to my computer I get absolutely no internet at all. I can only go through my router to get connected. I did call Apple about this and the only thing they came up with was for me to delete these com.apple.safari, and com.apple.mozilla files, but that didn't work. So, now I'm at a loss of what to do. I've restored my router back to factory settings and downloaded an update for it, played with IP addresses and DNS addresses and nothing is working out. With each day that passes the connection times to my browsers get less and less. My router is a Netgear WGR614 v.5 btw. This all seems to happen when I just go wireless with the iMac also. If there's anybody out there that can help it would be greatly appreciated.
TLDR: Internet browsers don't stay connected to internet, but I can play online games, and ping websites with no issues. Modem straight to computer does not work, have to go through router to connect. Called ISP and called Apple, but no solutions have helped.

Based on which device is configured to negotiate the internet connection with his ISP this is to be expected. For example, if his router were programmed to negotiate through the modem and establish the external IP and also negotiate with all the devices on his LAN and assign the internal IPs, then his Mac is only configured to get its internal IP from the router.
So, if he removes the router from the setup, then he would need to reconfigure the Mac to now negotiate directly with his ISP for its internet connection.
He does not mention having done any of that in his post. So an explanation of how the home LAN is setup and each device configured would be helpful in understanding what may be going wrong.
Dah•veed

Very odd HDD issues on X38 Plat.

Hey Guys, I just upgraded to an X38 Platinum, specs:
XP Prof. 32bit
X38 Platinum, BIOS 1.1
Q6600 Core2 Quad, 2.4ghz stock : CoolIT Eliminator
Aenon DDR3 2GB
VisionTek 3870
X-Fi XtremeMusic
PC Power & Cooling 750 Silencer Quad (Single rail 12v design)
WD 74GB Raptor
WD 500GB Caviar
So, here's a basic summary of what happens. I put all of my old stuff on the 500gb drive and reformatted the raptor so that I could hold on to my music etc. Now when I try to move things back, I can't. It copies fine, but cut/pasting gets no response from the operating system. An icon might show up in the destination folder, but it is a corrupted file and can't be accessed.
I can access each drive, and write to each drive.
When I turn on the computer, it takes a few trips through the boot cycle before it finally gets into windows. usually at the ATA stage (right after post) it says "No Hard Disk Detected!" and goes back to the logo.
This kind of funny HDD behavior has been happening since I put in the new mobo. When I was reinstalling windows, for example, it hit a few places where it just got stuck and wasn't doing any HDD activity at all during set up, and I had to restart to get it to going.
The Raptor, which has the OS on it, is in the first SATA slot, and the Caviar in the second. There is a CD/DVD drive in the 4th...
I'm truly stumped on this one, I have no idea what it could be! As always, any help is appreciated
Sorry for my ineloquence, I've been awake for far too long the past two days.
Thanks again,
ivy

Quote from: ivybat on 07-February-08, 11:56:41
So far, none! :thumbsup:
Well, the original problem is that I can't cut and paste across drives, only copy then delete... and I still can't do that. It doesn't make any sense!
"So far, none! :thumbsup:"
Nice , well the tips are suppose to help with BSOD(not with other problem.)
"Well, the original problem is that I can't cut and paste across drives, only copy then delete... and I still can't do that. It doesn't make any sense!"
That looks like permission problem.
Have you tried to log-in with administrator account and retest?

Battery issue (6-cells) with my X220

Hi,
For few weeks now, I have been experiencing a very frustrating battery issue with my X220.
Usually I put my laptop in hibernation while there is still a good battery capacity (70-80%) at night (or before going to work).
On the next day, when restarting the laptop, both Power manager and the windows gauge are indicating close to the same percentage as just before it was stopped the night before.
Then after a random time, ranging from few minutes to a hour or so, windows will notify me that the battery is at a critical level of charge (6%) while just before both Power manager and windows indicator were showing something like 60% remaining.
At that point windows shows 6% while power manager still shows the previous level of charge (let say 60%). After few minutes, Power manager indicator goes all to 6% and then the PC hibernates.
I think that my issue appeared after I updated Power manager, I reinstalled it including its driver with no luck...
I am now performing a battery reset to see if it helps.
I read several other posts regarding similar issues on the lenovo forums, it was suggested that some battery cells might been faulty and that a battery swap might solve the problem. However, as far as I read, it seems that people who performed a battery swap were still experiencing the issue.
I wanted to know if there were any know fix for this battery issue or at least what steps I should be taking to investigate/debug this issue?
Thanks in advance for your help
Solved!
Go to Solution.

To get the obvious out of the way, when your battery life suddenly drops off, are you watching YouTube or surfing Flash-heavy web sites?
Yeah, a sudden drop-off in indicated battery life sounds like a driver issue, so I dunno...maybe you could try rolling back the battery driver or Power Manager. (There's a way to roll back the driver via Windows Device Manager, right? Just make sure you don't uninstall the driver through Windows; there should be a button to click for "roll back driver.") I suggest making regular full-system-image backups of your X220 while you're working on the drivers. With my old x100e, I got myself into trouble after uninstalling AMD Catalyst Controller, and it just refused to reinstall.
Do you think like...a battery calibration would work? Go into Power Manager, Advanced, then Global Settings. Go to the battery low/critical section and click the box that says "do nothing" for when low and critical are reached. Power Manager will force the computer to run, even though the battery will broadcast a 0% level remaining. (And just to be safe, run the calibration with everything closed, use Power Manager to set the CPU to "low," and set a video looping in WMP or something like that, at brightness 11 of 15.) It's not too healthy for the battery (to deep discharge), but if you get 3-6 hours in that test, it'll be safe to say the problem's in the software, either something hogging CPU power or a driver issue.
I've done it a bunch of times, but in my experience it doesn't change much. I've only ever gotten 7-10 minutes of runtime while the battery says it's at 0%. The laptop will just wink out when it's done, no hibernation.
Try it if you haven't yet.

Very Low Battery / Resetting issue - lets make Apple fix this!!!

There appears to be a lot of posts within the last few weeks about the "Please wait, very low battery" message and constant resets EVEN ON A FULL BATTERY. I too have begun to experience this problem. I can only think that there is some kind of bug that has been introduced with the latest firmware and itunes combo. Can anyone that it experiencing this issue, PLEASE put your experiences in a reply to this thread. As an addition to my post below, I have also heard that using the prior version to the latest Itunes in conjunction with the latest may also be the root of this problem. I have been using two itunes, the latest at home and a slightly older one at work. Can anyone shed anymore light on this possibility?
This is from a reply post I made earlier tonight:
I noticed my ipod 5th gen 60 gig was strangely in the red on battery life, so I connected it to my macbook pro and answered a few emails. I then noticed out of the corner of my eye that the ipod resetting. Weird! I had never seen it do this while attached to the computer. So, I went back into itunes and it said something about not disconnecting the device physically - some how the pod had reset and disconnected itself. So, I re-attached it, and moments later, it reset again. Instead of attaching to the computer, I attached the pod to a wall powered usb charger (non-official). After a few minutes, the pod said it was fully charged (weird), so I disconnected it. I thought I should check to see if it was playing music ok and started playing a song. It seemed ok, so I skimmed through a few tracks. Soon the ipod reset itself and started to continuously reset as if in a loop. After several reset attempts (menu and select) I was presented with a "Please wait, very low battery" message screen...
Hmmmm. I thought I should attach it to the wall charger and leave it to re-charge, thinking that the battery must be just plain out of juice. I got past the very low battery message and into the menu with a reset. Strangely, the battery showed as being fully charged... Disconnecting the pod and playing several songs again, the unit reset and showed the low battery message... Leaving the pod attached to the wall charger, even though it said it was fully charged, didn't remedy the problem. More resets when playing a song or two.
Initially I thought that it was a faulty battery. But, before I jumped to conclusions, I googled the above message. This showed me that this is a reasonably common issue with several possible causes. Some of the suggestions to remedy the issue included:
* Reset the ipod - nope, same problem
* Restore the ipod - did this first up... No go
* Put the unit into disk mode attach and restore - nope
* Drain the battery completely and then re-charge on wall charger - nope
* Open the unit, disconnect the battery, and re-attach - I really thought this would work, but nope.
* Disconnect unit, insert wall powered usb, start unit to reset it - nope
* Buy a new battery - NOPE, same thing keeps happening even with a FRESH battery!!!
* Put the unit into diagnostic mode and then charge... This kind of worked in the fact that it actually charged the new battery...
It appears to me that the battery status is all out of whack. The OS seems to think that the battery is completely full, and hence, doesn't take a charge. Equally, even though it says there is a full charge, after the unit plays one or two tracks (requiring a few harddrive seeks I suppose) it will exclaim that there is no battery remaining, reset loop and eventually enter "very low battery" mode. It does the latter even if the battery is new and appears to have been charged (via the diag screen).
So, where to from here... Well not entirely sure, but I reckon that what I have to do is drain the fully charged battery WHILE the unit is active. Perhaps then, it will re-calibrate its internal battery meter... Right now, I have been able to put the pod into disk mode and it is actually showing a battery icon WITHOUT the fully charged symbol (the little plug icon). It also shows a slight depletion in battery remaining. My hope is that this depletion will get bigger over the next few days and, if it does, it may right the funny loop-like state it is in.
Has anyone got ANY other ideas as to how to fix this problem. As a side note, I updated the pod to firmware 1.3 recently. I am considering a restore using an older firmware. Where can I track down 1.2? Can I press the option key and click restore to choose an alternative restore image from the 1.3 already in itunes?
Any suggestions/help is EXTREMELY welcome as I am almost about to give up...

I think my problem actually might be the same ... the other day it was full battery one minute, and the next it was saying "Please connect to power,low battery". I wasn't near a power source, so i just left it. Then it started making this funny whirling sound and the screen went silvery blank, so i figured it was the hard drive crashing. I hooked it up to the computer overnight and the next day I could at least get the apple on the screen to show up and the computer would recognize it somewhat. When it's hooked up to the computer it goes from the apple screen, to please wait, very low battery, to the regular screen with a fully charged battery sign, to the "do not disconnect" screen with the battery charging.. When the "do not disconnect" screen appears, sometimes the computer recognizes it. But when it comes up it first says that an unknown error (-124)has occured and the ipod cannot be synced. And then it says the disk cannot be read or written to. After I press okay again, the screen goes to the apple and back to the please wait very low battery screen... and then in tunes it says the ipod cannot be synced because the required folder cannot be found. Then it comes up again and says iTunes cannot read the contents of the iPod. Go to the Summary tab in iPod preferences and click Restore to restore this iPod to factory settings. Now I would try to do that, but I don't have a summary tab in the preferences, if the preference tab they refer to is under the edit section. For the couple of seconds the my ipod settings appear on the screen, the files on it aren't even the same as before. It says I only have 7.78GB of only songs on my 30GB. Not only do I have more than 7.78 GB of songs normally on my ipod, I have videos and games that also should appear. Everytime it reconnects however, the GB go down? Now its at 6.07GB
It also makes this beeping sound randomly. Sometimes it when the ipod goes into the very low battery screen, but sometimes it beeps during the apple screen, or sometimes during the do not disconnect screen.
The most frustuating thing for me is that about mid-March I sent my iPod away to get a new battery before my warrantee was up. I got it back the first week of April, good turn around period, but instead of getting my old ipod back, I got a refurbished one. Now this is happening to it, and my warantee is already up. I know it can't be the battery that's wrong with it, there may be something wrong with it, but I'm sure they know better than to give me an ipod with a dead ipod.
Now it's coming up as 5.77 GB . . .
When it first happened, I was hoping that I could simply hook it up to the computer and click the restore button. This is impossible however because I can never get to the restore button before the computer unrecognizes my ipod.

Powerbook AC/battery issue

Hi there
wondered if anyone could give advice to this issue. I recently acquired a used Powerbook G4 Aluminum 15" widescreen which I bought knowing it had a dead battery which I'm due to replace, however as I have to leave it plugged in with the ac adapter in the interim I have noticed that there is a low level crackling/squealing emitting from the speakers even during sleep mode - its only noticeable when its quiet and stops when I unplug from the wall but I wondered if this was something to be concerned about? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
regards
Troy

air97 wrote:
I have the 1 Ghz version. and the battery says that the battery is at 75%. very odd.
OK, that's the same as mine. The total capacity number is bizarre, though. The 75 percent on the battery sounds right, as that corresponds to what your reported mAh remaining would be compared to what my System Profiler says about maximum capacity.
Why it's stopping the charge at the point it is is a mystery, but it may simply be a calibration problem. I would recommend again the tactic of running the thing all the way down to sleep or warning, then letting it completely recharge. Apple says at page 9 of this manual (http://manuals.info.apple.com/enUS/PowerBookG415inch1GHz-867MHzGettingStarted.PDF) that this only need to be done once, but I have found that is not exactly true.
Anyway, it's worth a try. As a final thing to try, a power manager reset might be in order, though I have found that really is a last resort thing on the TiBook.

A very odd OS problem

I've encountered a very odd problem with a computer at work. It's a G4 733 mhz, running os 9.1.0, and at my insistence, my boss has agreed to let me install os X, but only on an external drive. Right now this thing has all kinds of weird going on. First off, it never remembers the startup disk, it always starts up with a question mark for a minute before finding the internal os 9.1 disk. (This is an old problem, not a result of my attempt to install os x.) It starts up off the tiger disk fine, but it won't recognize the firewire disk as the start up disk. (In OS 9's startup disk control panel it will see the the folder, and it lets you select it, but it always reverts to the internal drive with OS 9 on restart. Same thing when selecting it with the startup disk options from the OS X Install Disk.) To make things weirder, holding down option on startup lets me see the CD System folder, and the OS 9 System folder, but not the firewire drive. I hooked the same drive up to my laptop, and booted up off the drive fine. I tried giving the PRAM a zap just for fun , and then it didn't see anything till I started up off the CD and told it to startup in OS 9. My mind is boggled, anyone have any idea what this is a symptem of?

Hi, Geoff -
OS 9.1 can be used as Classic with OSX, although OS 9.2.x provides better compatibility in that mode.
However, the original OS 9.1 installs (whether from a CD or the result of a download update) have an issue - the version of Startup Disk control panel that comes with OS 9.1 and earlier can not recognize OSX as a viable Boot OS, hence will not make it available for selection. The solution for that is to update the OS to 9.2.x, or at least update just that control panel. There is a specific download available for just the control panel -
Startup Disk 9.2.1 Document and Software
There may be another problem. You stated -
I hooked the same drive up to my laptop, and booted up off the drive fine.
That would indicate that the install of the OS on the firewire drive may have been done when it was connected to the laptop. If that was the case, it may not be suitable to boot a different model, such as your G4/733.
Most OS installs are specific to the hardware of the machine whose boot OS is running the installer. There is a way to do a universal (boot any Mac) install of OS 9.x, but I don't know if there is a way to do that with OSX.
To make things weirder, holding down option on startup lets me see the CD System folder, and the OS 9 System folder, but not the firewire drive.
Booting up using Startup Manager (which is what appears when you hold down the Option key during boot) will display only those OS's valid for that particular machine, and only one OS per volume (volume = an unpartitioned drive or disk, or the partition of a partitioned drive or disk).
Sometimes Startup Manager does not 'see' all bootable volumes immediately; clicking the Rescan button (the round arrow) will make it recheck all buses for a bootable volume.
First off, it never remembers the startup disk, it always starts up with a question mark for a minute before finding the internal os 9.1 disk.
This could be indicative of a weak or dead internal battery. Since your G4/733 is running a version of OS 9.1 it must be a Digital Audio model (the G4/733 QuickSilver models originally came with OS 9.2, and can not use any version of OS 9.1); this means it is about 5 years old now, which is about all that can be expected from an internal battery even if the Mac is left connected to live power when it is shut down.
When the battery is too weak or dead the Mac will not remember PRAM settings between boots or restarts, and may have difficulty booting to some drives (particularly to external ones).
Suggest you replace that battery - you can get one at places like Radio Shack for about US$15, cheaper on-line.

Ios 7.1 = no Wifi on iPhone 4s very low battery runtime... HELP!!!

ios 7.1 = no Wifi on iPhone 4s + very low battery runtime... HELP!!!

Welcome, sorry to hear your news, there are numerous threads on this issue. Try the trouble shooting on the other threads, I do not recommend sticking it in the freezer or heating with a hair dryer though,
If it's within warranty and trouble shooting doesn't work, get it. Ack to apple ASAP and get it replaced.
Many others are in the same position, who also have a 4s
Good luck

Semi-Scientific Test on iPhone 4S Battery Issue w/two iPhone 4Ss

All,
My wife and I ordered identical 16 GB iPhone 4Ss. They were set up the same way. From the very start, I could tell that her battery was outperforming mine.
After a day of turning off and on various settings, from Location Services, to Siri, to iTunes settings, etc. I still noticed a huge gap in stand-by performance. I was losing 1% per 10 minutes, her phone was not.
Today, we had similiar usage with similar network characteristics (WiFi, decent 3G coverage) starting from a full charge (100%). After 8 hours, her phone still had 52% remaining. Mine died on the way home from work.
So tonight, I performed a test. I plugged both phones up and allowed them to fully charge to 100%. While plugged up, I ensured each setting on the phone were identical, including the number of Exchange accounts, brightness level, etc. At 9pm CDT, I unplugged them. My phone took a long time to get from 99% to 100%, her phone didn't. Mine also went to 99% upon unplug, her's didn't.
Neither phone was used at all, stayed completely in stand-by mode. At 10:15pm CDT, ...her phone remains at 100%. Mine is now at 92%. That's roughly 1% every 10 minutes on my phone, same thing I saw earlier in the day.
I think this, for me at least, confirms the diverse results folks are seeing. Some folks are seeing major battery issues, some are seeing better battery life over other iOS devices. It just so happens in our house, we have one of each. Why would two identical phones behave so differently? I've exahusted all possible options on my phone, including the recently posted attempt at deleting e-mail accounts and resetting network settings.
Does Apple recommend that I do a restore on my phone? I am trying to do so, but I am having issues re-downloading iOS 5. If I still see the same battery drain, I believe I will take this into the Genius bar.
I do believe it's time that Apple address this battery issue. I for one, based on experience, believe it's real, and could be a manufacturing defect. I don't know how else to explain two identical phones having vastly different stand-by results if my restore fails to fix the issue.

After spending 2 days troubleshooting I have found my battery drain culprit. When I turn my wifi on it coninuously disconnects and reconnects to my network. This was draining my battery about 1% every 4 minutes. I went through all the turn this stuff off, reset network settings, setup phone as new, helped some but still had the issue. This morning I set mine and my wife's up the same, she went to work and was playing music on the way in. Still had 100% after 40 minutes. I was at home with wifi on and dropped to 90%.
I charged my battery back up, turned wifi off and now after an hour still have 100%. This is with siri on, icloud on, notifications on, etc.
Can anyone else confirn this is an issue for them. I am trying to determine if it is hardware or software related.
Thanks

Iphone4s - iMessage, Call & battery issues

I cannont receive text or picture messages via imesssage every once in a while, it never appears to be an issue when i receive from OTHER phones on other networks. I am able to send the messages though. and this issue is not consistent. it happens every now and then.
While i was testing this, i also noticed that when i send an iMessage the receiver is seeing my email Id instead of my phone number. I donno how frequent it is, but i noticed it once.
also, whenever someone calls me i get the call very late, i.e. just when the caller is about to reach my voicemail or disconnect. I have tested this by dialing my phone from a number of other phone including iPhone 4 & 4S from At&t
coming to the battery issues, i ALWAYS have my time zone off(i put my clock 10 min ahead), so i dont see the issue others are facing. But once in a a while i can see the battery dropping from 80% to dead within an hour or two without any usage. I got my iPhone 4s on day 1 and this happened about 4-5 times till now. Everytime i saw this happening, i would terminate all the background apps but that dosent stop the battery from draining.
I went to the apple store yesterday to have it diagnosed and they sent me away telling that I need to make an appointment.
Is anyone else facing the same issues?
Please share the solution if anyone was able to get around these issues.

Hi,
I had battery issues with my iphone5 ever since I updated to the latest IOS. My battery was draining really fast and my phone was really warm. What I did to solve this problem was: Go into Settings>Mail>Fetch New Data>Push,and make sure you switch push off. In that same section make sure that fetch is set as manually. This means that you have to check your emails when you want to - instead of the notifications going off every minute draining your battery.
I hope this helps anyone with the same issue.

IPhone battery issue - exchange calendar sync the primary suspect

I previously posted about very poor battery life and how a full re-install and reset seemed to fix the issue. The battery life was great for a week or so then I tried to go from my calendar on .me to my calendar on exchange. Then the issues re-appeared.
I am 99.9% sure that calendar sync via exchange is the issue. I am not sure if it's a funky server setting that my company has or what. It seems to work fine for others in the company however my e-mail account at work is relatively old compared to theirs. I am also on a Mac using Entourage. I made sure push was turned off and only fetch every hour. Still the same issue.
Again there is no battery drain when synching via iCal/.me. This kind of defeats the purpose of push calendar for me because I need to synch Entourage with iCal then iCal with .me. This means I need to be on my company network to sync. So the only time my calendar syncs is when I have my laptop on the company network.
The reason I'm writing is in hopes that someone from apple reads this and posts a fix. The CPU gets noticeably hot when exchange calendar sync is on so I know something is up. If you have any more info on this please let me know. I am also going to try the apple store tomorrow. Maybe it's a defective phone BUT since it works for everything except Exchange cal sync I am thinking it is some server/client polling issue.

I KNOW THIS IS lONG, BUT PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO READ IT.
OK - After about 5 hours of troubleshooting I have FIGURED out why my battery was lasting only 3.5 hours. I hope this helps.
1. completely wiped the phone away and brought it back with push disabled. EVERYTHING FINE
2. I enabled push waited 1 hour. EVERYTHING FINE
3. I enabled mail push syncing. EVERYTHING FINE
4. I enabled contacts push syncing. EVERYTHING FINE
5. I enabled calendar and BAM battery starting spinning in overdrive. The calendar was the issue.
6. I disabled push and to my surprise it did not get better, only after a reboot did the batter return to normal. OK - so I have narrowed it down to the calendar.
7. I am using Outlook 2007 with Exchange 2003.
8. I took a bold step and archived my entire calendar to a pst file so it left nothing in the calendar.
9. Again to my surprise the battery started draining immediately when i enabled the calendar again. On a hunch I checked the properties of the calendar and it said there was a few kb left. I could not do anything to find these.
10. I logged into Outlook web access (http://exchangeservername/exchange - if enabled) and did a search on the calendar and it found two orphan calendar entires. I deleted them.
11. I enabled calendar syncing again and it went perfect. I then copied back all of my calendar entires from the archive pst to the calendar and luckily no problem.
The push service must have not known how to process these two entires and was just chocking on it. For the last two weeks I have been getting 12-14 hours from a charge with 3-5 hours of use. Farb better then the 3.5 hours with no usage. I hope this helps!!

A suggestion for those with battery issues:

When I first got my iPhone, I had the same battery issues many people here are talking about, in fact I posted about it myself. Its fixed. Very fixed, and Im very happy with my battery life. Here is what I did.
First, do not charge it using your USB connection. At least not always. Why? I dont know. I did the first few days, and couldnt get a full charge even tho system wasnt going to sleep. I started using the wall charger, and got longer battery life, but still not great. One night, I forwarded the phone to my home phone in case I got a call, and shut the phone down completely, and put it on charge. In the morning, I woke up to a 100% charged, fully glowing battery icon. The battery lasted all day with no issues. Every night after that, I just charged it on the wall charger, but did NOT shut it down to see what happened. I am still waking up every morning to a 100% fully charged battery. The battery life seems to get better daily now.
Today, I ran wifi for about 5 hours because I forgot to shut it off. This was after going to the pool and listening to the iPod on the phone for about 2 hours. And using the phone normally throughout the day, checking mail, sms, etc. Really a full day of work, and my battery is still over 50% full. I purposely didnt connect it to anything during the day for a recharge, not the USB or wall charger.
Good luck, hope this helps. Id be interested to know if it does.

Here's my non-scientific experiment.
After surprising battery drain for the first 10 days or so with not much usage, I completely drained the battery yesterday until the phone shut off.
I plugged into AC charge and was worried when it didn't seem to even begin charging.
I plugged into USB, assuming it needed to charge enough to at least complete a sync.
I left it on USB until about 5-10% charge, then switched it to AC. At about 50% I needed to use it, so I did but sparingly, and put it back on charge, all the while keeping Mail on manual and WiFi off.
I took it off once more to get it home from the office, then plugged into AC.
I left that charging overnight.
I never actually got the "glow", but did get the plug icon showing full charge in the status bar.
After about 2 1/2 hours this morning, the status has not moved off of 100% (but with little usage as before).
This is definitely an improvement already though. Hope this helps.

Very odd battery issue

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