Viewing images full frame in iBooks

How do I enable images I have inserted in iBook Author so that when double tapped they go to full frame when viewing?
When I preview on my iPad, and double tap the image nothing happens.

Tom,
I only have PE 3 so there may be some differences in 6. Perhaps someone will correct me if I'm wrong. You need to change the "Canvas" size.
Open the picture in Editor. Click on Image/Resize/Canvas size.
Leave the Anchor centered. Set the Height to the same as the Width. Select Black for the Canvas extension color. Click OK.
Bob

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Ratings disappear on browser and viewer in full frame view

My ratings disppeared completely. I got them back in browser mode (pressed u) but not in full frame. How do I get them back in full frame as well?

Press "y"
Pulldown menu/view/metadata display/...
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How to view images full size and then import selected ones to macbook

I want to view my images stored on external drive full size and download selected to MacBook pro

Use a photo viewer like Preview (this has nothing to do with iPhoto)
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Creative Cloud full frame image viewing

Is there a way to set a "default" to vertically center a "full frame" image when viewing it in MyFiles?
Currently it defaults to "top" position, which is not very pleasing when presenting widescreen 1:1.85 images.
Thank you.
(Chrome on Win 7)

Hi Claridgep,
I don't think there is an option for centering images vertically when viewed full screen. I tested on a Mac in Safari and in Firefox and saw the same behavior. This would be a good feature request/idea.
http://forums.adobe.com/community/creative_cloud_touch_apps/create-idea!input.jspa?contain er=4670&containerType=14
-Dave

Why doesn't the "View image info" show how many frames are in animated gifs?

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I'm not too sure what I did but it works now.

Image quality in Viewer vs Full Screen

I've seen lots of discussions about this in earlier version (pre 1.5x), but they seem to be backward from what I'm seeing. I have an extremely noticable difference in image quality in the viewer vs full screen. At first, I just thought my images weren't any good. Then, I brought the same raw files up in Photoshop and they were pretty good. I looked in Aperture in Full Screen mode, and it was close or equivalent to Photoshop.
Is anybody else seeing the image be downright bad (looks horribly out of focus) in the viewer but good in full screen? I'm not talking about the thumbnails.
I'm using an iMac G5 20". I know that my video card is probably underpowered for this, but that should only affect speed (which is mostly tolerable).
iMac G5 20 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

I think I read in the manual that Aperture uses a different type of on-screen sharpening for windowed, full screen, and show master. Probably trying to speed it up in windowed by using a cheaper method.
They all should look the same when viewed at 100%.
And for what it's worth, I think Aperture does a lot better job than most programs when viewed at odd sizes. I don't have much to compare it to, but iPhoto and Adobe Elements look awful in comparison.

Full Frame Images/Borders

I am using Photoshop Elements 6.0. I've shot an image which is horizontal, and am an trying to get the image to be full frame (square). I need to have the entire image shown so I know this needs to have a border on the top and bottom of the image. My image background is black so the border needs to be black to blend in; similar to a letter box format on a Cinemascope ratio move. Can someone please help me understand how I can get this border so that I can make a rectangular image look square? Ultimately this image will be posted to a website that requires only square images.

Tom,
I only have PE 3 so there may be some differences in 6. Perhaps someone will correct me if I'm wrong. You need to change the "Canvas" size.
Open the picture in Editor. Click on Image/Resize/Canvas size.
Leave the Anchor centered. Set the Height to the same as the Width. Select Black for the Canvas extension color. Click OK.
Bob

Since upgrading to the new firefox, pictures on facebook do not load automatically. I have to click on the frame and select view image in order to see the photos. Do you have a solution to make the photos autoload?

Since upgrading to the new firefox, pictures on facebook do not load automatically. I have to click on the frame and select view image in order to see the photos. Do you have a solution to make the photos autoload?

https://support.mozilla.com/en-US/questions/891839

T3i sensor size vs. full frame and how does that effect lens measurements?

I am new to both photography and the T3i camera. I have been reading Jeff Revell's book "Canon EOS Rebel T3i / 600D: From Snapshots to Great Shots". In chapter two he talks about "Lenses and Focal Lengths". In discussing wide-angle lenses he says
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
Latter he discusses normal lenses and says
"The normal lens for full-frame and 35mm cameras is the 50mm lens, but for the T3i it is more in the neighborhood of a 35mm lens."
I understand that there is a 1 / 1.6 ratio between the T3i and a Full Frame camera. In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
--Jesse
P.S. I could not find a publisher’s forum for this book or I would have asked the question there.

Jesse-T3i wrote:
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
The fast answers are:
When he mentions the 35mm as the basis for determining what's "wide" he is referring to the APS-C crop-frame size sensor.
There is no nomenclature to indicate if you are "full frame" vs. "crop frame" on a lens because all lenses are reported in true focal lengths. There is a nomenclature to indicate if the lens was designed to only project an image circle onto the sensor which is large enough for "crop frame" ... which is what the "EF-S" lens is. If the lens is for "full frame" (which also works on all crop-frame) then it will have the designation "EF" for most lenses, but Canon also has a few specialty lenses such as the "TS-E" (tilt shift) and "MP-E" (macro photo) lenses which also provide full-frame sensor coverage. Incidentally... this is just Canon's way of tagging a lens... Nikon uses the terms "FX" and "DX" (for full frame and crop frame respectively). Everyone has their own tag. Just remember that focal lengths reported are true (well... there's a TINY bit of round-off allowed) and ignore the sensor size.
Here's the background which may help you understand why this is.
The "normal" focal length is based on the human eye, and to understand it, it's easier to think in terms of "angle of view" rather than "focal length."
If you sit and stare straight ahead without moving your eyes or head to "look around", there is an area of vision that the average person can see (and it does vary), but the "angle of view" for that area is about 40 degrees (horizontally). Of course our vision doesn't present our brain with a nice little rectangular image... it fades and is irregular, but it's generally accepted that the angle of view covers about 40 degrees.
The LENS that provides 40 degree angle of view coverage on a "full frame" camera turns out to be a 50mm lens. Images taken with such a lens will seem neither stretched out nor compressed... they'll seem "normal" to your brain. Also, if you can see an object without having to look around to take in the view, then your camera can "see" it with that lens.
A "full frame" camera is one which has a sensor size which is approximately the same as a single frame of 35mm film. The dimensions are roughly 36mm x 24mm.
There are many different crop frame sizes, but for DSLR cameras, the most popular (by far) is the APS-C size. This means the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame for the "Advanced Photo System - Classic" film. You can think of this as being roughly 21mm x 14mm (although it varies by a just a few millimeters -- on your camera it's really 22.3 x 14.9mm).
If you were to use a movie projector and movie screen and you projected an image so that it fit perfectly on a 12' x 8' screen and called that "full frame", then a "crop frame" would be derived by shriking the movie screen down to about 8' wide by about 5-1/3' tall but (and here's the key) without doing ANYTHING to the movie projector. Essentially that means you're projecting an image intended to fit ona 12x8' screen... but the real screen is smaller. What happens to the part of the image that doesn't fit on the screen? It just spills off the sides and is lost. That is EXACTLY what happens inside a crop-frame camera.
Canon EOS "EF" lenses are designed to project an image large enough to fill a full-frame sensor ... so when used on a crop-frame camera some of that image just spills off the sides. This means that if your lens was providing a 40 degree angle of view (measured horizontally) then the crop-frame is only capturing the 26 degrees in the middle of it. If you want a 40 degree angle of view again... you'll need to change lenses.
And this is where your author suggests a 35mm lens is "normal" for a camera with an APS-C body. The math actually works out in the neighborhood of a 31mm lens, but nobody actually makes a 31mm lens... and a 35mm focal length (commonly available) is pretty close. Also 28mm lenses are commonly available and are ALSO pretty close. It's my personal opinion that 28mm is probably a bit more normal than 35mm, but that's because as an avid amateur astronomer, I am fairly used to looking through Plossl design eyepieces which provide a 50 degree apparent angle of view and my eye actually can see the edges of the frame, but if I go a bit wider... I can no longer see the edges of the field without "looking around" (regardless... 40 degrees seems to be the established norm and THAT is the value that everything is based on.)
For purposes of buying lenses, the focal lengths are NOT converted or adjusted in any way. For example, Canon makes "EF-S" lenses designed specifically to work with their crop-frame bodies. So when the kit lens that comes with the camera says it is a zoom with an 18-55mm focal length range... it really is 18-55mm regardless of sensor size. (Canon isn't multiplying or dividing focal lengths and putting a different value on the box just because it's intended for a crop-sensor camera.)
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Did you know Firefox 4 does not support full frame option in iPlayer or similar?

Both at home & work - using Mac OS 10.5 & 10.6 Firefox 4 will not allow me to view full frame video stream such as BBC iPlayer, 4OD, ITV Player, TVCatchup ....etc, etc.
I have now switched to using Safari & Chrome (which work perfectly) but in the interest of your 'going forward' I thought you'd like to know of this glitch.
All the best

I have Firefox 5.0.1 and the coupon printer I'm trying to use is supported by ActiveX. It appears that 5.0.1 is not compatible with ActiveX. Can you tell me how I can access this installation to print my coupons with Firefox, please? Thanks!

What do I do to view images on CS5-64 when it will not open them?

The program will not open images, either directly or from Bridge. Using Win 7 on a Dell PC.

Strange, after rebooting, both Ph CS5 and Bridge are working again. Thanks for getting with me.
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 23:30:38 -0700
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: What do I do to view images on CS5-64 when it will not open them?
    Re: What do I do to view images on CS5-64 when it will not open them?
    created by Mylenium in Photoshop for Beginners - View the full discussion
What exactly? What image files? Do you get any error messages/ warnings? Provide more info.
Mylenium
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Time to upgrade to Full Frame

Team,  I currenlty own a 70D and a T3i with a bunch of EF-s lenses. My question is wether to upgrade to a couple of L lenses or upgrade to a full frame camera. Ideally I love to have a Mark III but a 6D is more realistic.   My budget is about $3500 I do real estate photography with some portrait side gigs on the side, no weddings or big projects.  Will it make sense to keep my 70D with some prime lenses for portrait photograpy? or go full frame is there much of a difference if i used a 70-200 2.8L lens on a 70D then a 6D?  your help and expertise is greatly appreciated.

Unless you want to get into really high end real estate photography, I'd suggest you stick with your 70D for now and start gradually changing your lens line-up, with a goal to build a system that will eventually allow you to add a full frame camera to use alongside the crop sensor camera. There are advantages and limitations with both sensor formats. I use both crop sensor and full frame cameras (a pair of 7D and a 5DII in my case, right now). I prefer the crop camera for sports/action and anything requiring longer telephoto lenses. And I like the full frame for landscape, architecture, portraiture and sometimes for macro work. One of the reasons I choose the full frame for portraiture is control over depth of field. Now, DoF is governed by lens focal length, working distance and lens aperture.... it doesn't actually change due to different sensor formats. However, in order to frame a subject the same way with a full frame camera, it's either necessary to use a longer focal length or move closer to the subject, or a little of both. Changing either distance or focal length will tend to render shallower depth of field. Conversely, full frame cameras can use smaller apertures before diffraction becomes an issue, so a FF also has some advantage for macro work or for landscape/architecture where great DoF is often wanted.  In generaly, there's a bit less lens selection for FF, though it's still quite extensive in the Canon system. This is because a FF camera can only use EF lenses, while your crop sensor 70D and my 7Ds can use both EF-S/crop-only and EF/full-frame-capable lenses. Also in general lenses for FF cameras will be larger, heavier and more expensive. It's most noticeable with telephotos, of course, but to some extent is true even with wide angle. IMO, on 70D a 70-200mm is a bit long for a lot of portraiture work. My most prefered lenses for portraits with a crop sensor camera are 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 24-70/2.8. On full frame, my most frequently used portrait lenses are 85/1.8, 135/2, 70-200/4 and 70-200/2.8. Sure, there are times that wider and longer lenses can be useful for certain types of portraits. But these are what I use most often and feel are the most basic or "traditional" focal lengths for the purpose. Short telephotos generally render the most ideal perspective for portraits. Also, I mostly shoot candid portraits, not posed. Because that often means working with less than desirable backgrounds, I prefer larger aperture lenses that allow me the option to blur down distractions behind (and sometimes in front of) the subject. If shooting in studio or more posed at a planned location, with more control over the background and other elements, it would be different and large aperture lenses would be less necessary. Real estate photography work often calls for a wide angle and a lot of depth of field. With your crop camera, the EF-S 10-18mm you've got probably sees a lot of use. If you were shooting full frame, you'd probably want EF 16-35/2.8 or EF 16-35/4... or EF 11-24/2.8 (but that would use up most of your budget and not leave room to buy a camera to use it on). Tilt shift lenses such as the TS-E 17/4 and TS-E 24/3.5 II are also top choices for architectural photography. Compare size, weight and prices. Also, if you use filters a lot, some require larger (16-35/2.8 II uses 82mm) and the TS-E 17/4 and EF 11-24/2.8 both have stongly convex front elements that won't allow standard screw-in filters to be used at all. There aren't many truly wide lenses for crop cameras that are also FF compatible. The EF 11-24/2.8 is one of very few. The EF 14/2.8 II is another. So, to use the crop camera for wide angle shots, you'll probably want to keep at least one or two EF-S/crop only lenses. The EF-S 10-22mm is an older lens than the EF-S 10-18mm, but is a little better built and with more edge-to-edge image sharpness... it's one of the best ultrawides made by anyone... but costs about 2X as much. If it were me, I'd prefer the Canon EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS USM over the Sigma 17-70... but once again this is a "crop only" lens. For dual format purpose, one of the 16-35mm or the EF 17-40/4 might replace it better and be able to serve on both camera formats. I use a little longer 24-70 and 28-135 as my "walk around" or mid-range zooms.    6D is a nice camera and, compared to 70D, would be desirable for very large prints or for low light/high ISO shooting situations. That's because full frame images need less magnification for enlargement and use bigger pixel sites that capture more fine detail, both of which allow for bigger prints. Not that you'd notice much difference with 13x19 or smaller prints. And certainly you wouldn't be able to tell any difference at Internet resolutions if a lot of your stuff ends up on websites. Because the FF camera's 20MP sensor is so much less crowded than the 20MP crop sensor, there is less heat and less cross talk, making for cleaning or less noise in very high ISO images. The difference would be most noticealbe at ISO 1600 and above.   The 70D has a more sophisticated and versatile AF system, except that the 6D's can still manage to focus in one or two stops lower light (center point only). 70D has 19-point AF that's similar to original 7D, active matrix focus screen, and zone focus in addition to the all points/auto and single point/manual focus patterns offered by all Canon DSLRs. The 6D only offers the last to focus patterns, doesn't have zone, and it has a fixed (but interchangeable with a few types) focus screen. 70D's active matrix focus screen makes possible the camera's "grid on demand" feature that can be turned on or off via the menu, and which can be quite handy when shooting architecture inside or out. With 6D you can get similar grid in the viewfinder, but to do so would need need to swap out with a separately sold, accessory "D" type focus screen. In 70D all nineteen AF points are the more sensitive dual axis/cross type, with the center one enhanced for f2.8 and faster lenses. 6D's eleven AF points have only one dual axis/cross type... the center point... while all the others are single axis type. Either camera's AF system is probably more than adequate for what you say you shoot primarily. If you were shooting sports/action/wildlife/birds, the 70D's AF system would likely be more ideal, though... so I'd rate it as more versatile. The 6D's would be a better choice for low light work, though. 70D also has articulated LCD screen and built-in flash, while 6D has neither of those features. The 70D and 6D share batteries, chargers, memory and have mostly similar control layouts, always nice when using two different cameras interchangeably for various purposes. So, if it were me, I'd probably keep shooting with the 70D and work on lens upgrades first, then add the FF camera later. But that's just me. Your needs might be different and call for another approach. ***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

Is there a way to view image numbers in iPad photos, either of images taken with the iPad or of images copied into Photo (or camera roll) on the iPad?

Is there a way to view image numbers (metadata) on the iPad Photo app, distinguishing those taken with the internal camera from those downloaded from external camera or copied from an email?

sberman: My iMac is running iTunes 11.0.2 already. As well, the Photos tab in the iTunes window shows that "Sync Photos from" is un-checked. And in the box to the right of it is the greyed-out empty folder that I previously synced to in order to remove photos from the Camera Roll.
Ralph9430: I did a reset (Home + Sleep) earlier when I was trying everything I could think of. I have also re-synced a couple of times. No luck.
Thanks anyway. I was hoping someone out there would tell me they've experienced the same problems (non-functioning DELETE button, and persistent data in Photo Library), even if they haven't found a solution. Then I could assume it's a iOS 6 bug. All I can think of to do next is a full iPad restore.

Elements 8 - How to view images by scrolling thru folder of file names?

After taking a large batch of pictures, I want to place them in a folder and rapidly view the full images one at a time to select which to keep and which to discard. IN PE-8 how can I display two panes - one pane containing the image file names contained in a folder and the other pane which displays the image of the file name selected? Using the arrow keys, I want to move through image file names one at a time while displaying the image associated with the file name in the other pane.

One method of accepting or rejecting is to use star ratings.
Select the first image and press F12 to view full screen. Press the 5 key to add five stars.
Press the right keyboard arrow to move to the next image and star or move on.
When you have finished the batch you can filter by the star rating.

Has anyone experienced this problem: I am editing in FCP 7.0.3 on a Mac 10.6.8 - I have a clip in the browser that is full frame and matched the other clips but when I drop it in the time line it becomes a fully zoomed in version of itself

has anyone experienced this problem: I am editing in FCP 7.0.3 on a Mac 10.6.8 - I have a clip in the browser that is full frame and fine and it matches the other clips in my bins but when I drop it into the time line it becomes a fully zoomed in version of itself and I can only see a small portion of the image. What's going on? I've noticed this has happened in the past randomly with other clips and it's driving me cray cray! Any help appreciated greatly and thanks in advance for taking the time

In the FCP Browser, click on the source clip that is showing up sized incorrectly to select it. Once it is selected, type Command + 9 to see the item properties for the clip. Either report those properties here, or take a screen shot of the item properties and post the screen shot here.
Next, click anywhere in your sequence timeline and then type Command + 0 {zero} to see your sequence settings. Either report those settings or take a screen shot of the sequence settings and post that screen shot here.
MtD

Viewing images full frame in iBooks

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