Vinyl records to itunes via USB turntable

I have a Sony USB turntable which I am trying to use to convert some old albums of mine to songs playable on iTunes.
I have figured out a way to do it, but it seems awful tedious, as I have to record the songs as a track in Garageband, then save it and convert to an mp4, then import into my itunes library.
It works, but I must record one song at a time to keep them separate (if I record one side of an album, it records as one song).
I'm thinking there must be some Mac-compatible software out there that would simplify the process, and allow me to separate the tracks.
Also, does anyone have experience with this process as far as which settings to use?
Should I save the garageband track first as a garageband file, and if so, can I save at the compressed "small" size to save space on my HD, or will I sacrifice too much quality.
Again, I've been able to accomplish the task, but it seems a bit awkward and I could use some pointers.
I am running Snow Leopard on the G5 computer I am using with the USB turntable, but I also have a Macbook Pro running Lion if that would do a better job.
thanks

Take a look at: http://www.alpinesoft.co.uk/
Good reviews from: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=87289
There are others, google "OS X Viny Recording"
(I use a Windows program (the only time I boot into windows!) , so I can't comment)

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    This is a classic task for a computer. One I used to do frequently. I used the Amadeus application to record and, where necessary, edit the music. The application can filter the recorded tracks to eliminate clicks and hiss among other things. I then saved the files and imported them into iTunes. From there I could do anything that iTunes let's me do such as burn CDs, use the music in videos and of course copy them to an iPod, iPad or iPhone.

  • I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.

    I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac.  The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out.  How do I get them recognized.  The symbol states the songs were downloaded from iCloud.  I would like to get them to play so that I can make a playlist, and burn a CD.

    Try:
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  • What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

    What is the process for recording vinyl records into iTunes using the Sony USB Turntable?

  • Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

    I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
    I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
    (not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
    - have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
    -using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
    - So, will need iMic from Griffin
    -will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
    -Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
    Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
    connect turntable to iMac via iMic
    put record on the platter
    launch Audacity
    start the turntable
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    after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
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    (This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
    Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

    Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
    The short version of what needs to be done is this:
    * Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
    * Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
    * Clean the vinyl LP
    * Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
    * Record
    * Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
    * Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
    Here is the long version:
    *Hardware:
    I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
    If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
    I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
    * RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
    If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
    * Clean the vinyl LP:
    First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
    This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
    I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
    Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
    *Set up the Software:
    For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
    - Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
    If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
    Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
    - Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
    - Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
    - Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
    My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
    * Record:
    If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
    Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
    If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
    * Edit:
    If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
    The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
    "CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
    Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
    SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
    Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
    I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
    * Import into iTunes:
    After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
    Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
    Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
    To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
    If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
    Hope this helps.

  • While restoring iphone 4 8gb it is stuck at the connect to itunes via usb screen

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  • Converting vinyl records to iTunes

    Does anyone have any product or software reccomendations for converting old vinyl albums to store and use in iTunes?

    I know this an old thread, but I purchased a digital turntable to computer and have started to transfer my records to iTunes. The major problem i am having is this; I use a USB cable between the 2 pieces of equipment, but I cannot turn off my iSight microphone and all of the room noise and conversation is being recorded along with the record. the turntable has no provisions for a microphone so I know it's the iSight one. I have turned off this in everyway possible, but it still records all sound when transferring in iTunes. How is that possible?

  • Vinyl records to itunes

    I have a Sony USB turntable which I am trying to use to convert some old albums of mine to songs playable on iTunes.
    I have figured out a way to do it, but it seems awful tedious, as I have to record the songs as a track in Garageband, then save it and convert to an mp4, then import into my itunes library.
    It works, but I must record one song at a time to keep them separate (if I record one side of an album, it records as one song).
    I'm thinking there must be some Mac-compatible software out there that would simplify the process, and allow me to separate the tracks.
    Also, does anyone have experience with this process as far as which settings to use?
    Should I save the garageband track first as a garageband file, and if so, can I save at the compressed "small" size to save space on my HD, or will I sacrifice too much quality.
    Again, I've been able to accomplish the task, but it seems a bit awkward and I could use some pointers.
    I am running Snow Leopard on the G5 computer I am using with the USB turntable, but I also have a Macbook Pro running Lion if that would do a better job.
    thanks

    John61254 wrote:
     if I record one side of an album, it records as one song
    you can export sections:
    http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#exportsections
    (Let the page FULLY load. The link to your answer is at the top of your screen)
    John61254 wrote:
     can I save at the compressed "small" size to save space on my HD, or will I sacrifice too much quality.
    you would be double compressing your final product, so don't save the project as compressed

  • I am having problems syncing recently recorded songs to my iPod. I am using an ion program to record vinyl records to iTunes. The songs are in the iTune library and will play on the computer. When I try to sync they show up but do not play. help

    I am using an ion piece of equipment to record vinyl reccords to my iMac and in turn save them in iTunes. I have recorded many records this way and have never had a problem until yesterday. I recorded three songs from records to iTunes and was successful as they are on the song list and will play on the iMac. When I tried to sync them to my iPod they showed up on the menu but would not play. The iPod just skipped over the new guys. Am I doing something wrong or has my ion program flipped out? Any help would be appreciated by this old man. Thankyou

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    I am on a Windows 7 x64 home-built computer and I am pretty technically inclined, but this one problem has been bugging me for quite a while now.
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  • What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    What software do I need to get music from a vinyl record into ITunes

    When I used Audacity to digitize some of my LPs I would record the whole album, then trim the lead in, select and export the first track, delete that, then export the next track, and so on. You can zoom in and out to locate the track breaks. There is a snap to zero point option which should prevent clicks on track transitions. If you want to go deeper you can add fade in and out so you don't snap into the sound of the groove. (I was using a pretty ropey turntable). There are other tools that chop up audio but you should be able to do it all in Audacity reasonably quickly once you get your eye in. I'm sure there are tools that can chop audio at pre-specified points, or even calculate where those points should be, but they are unlikely to be free and probably still need a degree of supervision.
    tt2

  • I can't sync iphone with itunes via USB, Im using windows 8.1 system, after update7.0.6 itunes was not detect the iphone, pls help....

    can't sync itunes with iphone via USB, windows 8.1 system

    Right click on your device under Portable devices and click on Uninstall and when the uninstaller box pop ups select delete the driver and click OK. Now click on Scan for hardware changes on top of the page and see if you get apple mobile device support driver under USB Devices and if not then disconnect your device from the computer and try to connect it to a different USB port and check also open control panel and select Apple Mobile Device  Support from the List and Click on Repair and check. If still the device is not showing under USB then uninstall the following services from your computer.
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    Apple Software Update
    Apple Mobile Device Support (if unable to uninstall ignore and move to next)
    Bonjour
    Apple Application Support
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  • I disconnected my nano without ejecting (wasnt using itunes, via usb)

    I disconnected it when I had it connected via usb to charge, it was locked (the slide at the top) at the time, without itunes open, now its locked on with the do not disconnect thing on the screen and it wont respond to resetting procedures or anything at all, and when i try to reconnect it to the computer it comes up that it doesnt recognize the device
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    Greetings RavynKage,
    Welcome to the Apple Support Communities!
    From what i gather, it sounds like iTunes is becoming unresponsive now when you connect you iPod to it. If this is the case, I would recommend reading over and working through the information in the attached article. 
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  • HT1473 I have an EZ Vinyl/Tape Converter (MixMeister) to export vinyl records to iTunes. The computer downloads (records) the songs from the record, but when it is to be exported to iTunes, I get a window that says iTunes unable to export. (compatability?

    I have an EZ Vinyl/Tape Converter (MixMeister) to record vinly records to my computer; which then is supposed to automatically download to my iTunes program. But it does not. It records and stores (somewhere) in the computer, but when it is supposed to be exported into iTones, I get a window that says something about incompatability and/or "close other windows in iTunes; but there are no open windows and iTunes is closed. I followed all instructions to EZ Vinyl to the T, but no export/import to iTunes. What am I doing wrong? What do I need to do? THX!

    Tony, thanks so much. The message reads: "Unable to export to iTunes. Please make sure you close any active windows in iTunes. Would you like to try exporting again? [Yes] [No]"
    And of course I click on Yesl, but I keep getting the same window message. I read somewhere, that MixMeister is not compatible with Apple iTunes 10 series versions. The advice said to go to control panel; Programs; click on iTunes; click on Change; click on Repair. I tried that, but I still get the same window message. Then I read that I should contact the mixmeister support website, which will be my next step. But if you can provide any direction, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks again!
    Dan

  • HT201210 on my iPad I get an image of the USB connection and an arrow pointing to the itunes icon for a few seconds then it switches off.  connected  to itunes via USB get a message that itunes has detected an ipad in recovery mode must restore when i do

    When I havent got my ipad connected to a power supply I get an image on my ipad of the usb cable with an arrow pointing to a itunes icon and no matter what you try and do iyt stays on that for a few seconds and then switches off the ipad, connecting it through usb into itunes on my PC (XP) this image says on the screen but I get a message on itunes saying itunes has detected an ipad in recovery mode and mneeds to be restored - when I fire off the restore through itunes after a few minutes it comes back and says it cannot restore and give an error message 1603.  I have also repeated the process through my wife's laptop (Vista) and get the same situation -it is an 32GB Ipad 3 purchased last November -  any ideas ?

    Try and turn off iPad/iPod and proceed to step 3 of Recovery Mode.
    Recovery Mode
    1. Disconnect the USB cable from the device, but leave the other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
    2. Turn off the device: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for the device to turn off.
    3.While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to the device. The device should turn on.
    4. Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen. When this screen appears, release the Home button. iTunes should alert you that it has detected a device in recovery mode. Click OK, and then click Restore to restore the device.
    Note: Data will be lost. You may have to repeat the above many times.

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