Vinyl records (yes)played thru computer

Ok, I have an HP media center m8013w running Vista Home Premium ,which does more than I have learned how to use at this point.
I have recently recovered some very (30+ year) old vinyl records that I owned in a previous life.
I have a good quality turntable to play them on and it has left and right audio input plugs. I have connectede to audio 2 L&R but can't find a player to get the sound out.
I want to be able to copy these to my hard drive for posterity and play them straight out, some may be in such bad shape that not worth copying.
First how do I get them just to play in order to edit and listen?
Second how do I get them to save to hard drive?
Anything will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Check your mixer settings (through the control panel likely) to make sure you don't have the audio input channel you are trying to use muted. If they aren't muted, then one would think that Windows Media Player or Winamp would have a source configuration in it's setup or preferences in order to hear the records. Also, what sound card are you using and have you checked their website for software/advice?
I too am looking to someday salvage some very old records left to me by my parents, and I honestly think that the best solution would be to buy one of the new USB turntables that come packaged with software to do exactly what we are trying to do. Less muss, less fuss, just have to save up the $$$$.
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Logic 8 plays thru spkrs, no MIDI devices will record or play thru - WHY?

I've installed Logic Studio on m MacBookPro. Everything seems to work.
When I plug in my ekeys 48 and Maudio mobile pre (with newest drivers) I can get sound out of Logic, but the keyboard will not play through and it will not record.
Ditto with the "Caps Lock" keyboard in the program.
All the devices show up fine in the Audio Midi Setup.
Garageband works just fine with all the devices, records, plays back, etc. Not Logic . It's not logical.
I've configured the audio devices as described in the "Aggregate Devices" link on the PRO help page: Here -- http://www.apple.com/pro/techniques/aggregateaudio/recording.html --
and it hasn't been updated to reflect the setup options in Logic 8 -- having never used Logic 7, I don't know how to transpose them.
Can anyone help me out here?

Hm. Odd problem, but I think you'll need to provide more info for people to effectively trouble shoot this for you.
Some things to try...
1) in Logic open a MIDI Activity window and see if it displays anything when you press the keys on your controller. If the answer's YES, then at least you know Midi's being received by Logic (and it's instruments), but the SOUND is just not getting to the speakers.
If the answer's NO, then it's a MIDI routing problem. Check that the MIDI input parameter (upper left in your arrange window) is set to the right MIDI source -- as in, does it name your keyboard or interface and the right channel? Mine, for instance, says "MOTU XT 1" (meaning, the input is coming from Port 1 of the Motu XT interface). If it said something else, like "US2400 3", then I'd know why there was no MIDI getting from my keyboard to the synths...
2) Can you run any of your synths (like the Native Instruments stuff for example) in stand alone mode? Does it get MIDI activity and make music alright?
3) If you have an instrument track setup in Logic, go into the Matrix editor and use the pen tool to enter some notes. Hit PLAY. Does sound come out from the instrument track? At least this might prove that the instrument channels are working, it's just that MIDI isn't getting to them...
4) try loading some Logic demo songs, or even Garage band songs into Logic (I think that works, never tried it) and see if they play alright.
That's all I can think of now. As others have said in your other thread, the "Logic Pro Help" forum is a good source of high quality technical advice.
Apple themselves are pretty much useless for Logic Pro help, unless you want to pay $199 to have an 'expert' tell you that they are 'aware of the bugs'.

Recording vinyl records to computer using the Imic

Has anyone used the IMIC to transfer vinyl records to their computer in order to convert the music to a CD? I have seen mixed reviews on the IMIC and would like to know what other people think. I also would like to know what else is needed to make this work. My stereo system has two AUX ports labeled "L" & "R". I purchased an audio Y-cable (1/8" Stereo Male to Dual RCA (Phono) Male but that alone does not work. If I plug that Y-cable into an IMIC and the IMIC into my computer and use Garageband to record should that work? Is the Final Vinyl a better software than Garageband?
I am a novice at this and need the easiest process to accomplish the conversion. Any input would be appreciated.

You stereo system's AUX ports are probably inputs, not outputs. Does it have TAPE OUT ports? They should work with your cable to the Mac's audio input. See if you get any signal in the "Input" tab of "Sound" system preference. Select "Line In" and adjust the input volume slider.
You can record with QuickTime Player using "New Audio Recording" from its "File" menu.
You only need the iMic if you want to go directly from the turntable to the computer without using your stereo system. In that case, you have to use the Final Vinyl software to handle the RIAA equalization.

Clear Instructions: import Vinyl records into iTunes

I have been researching for some weeks. Amazing,no succinct article or info on HOW to use a Mac and import music from Vinyl records into iTunes. ( Adam Engst, where is a Tidbits eBook when I need it?)
I think I have the gist but maybe you audiophiles can clarify for me?
(not sure what format to use when finally able to import the music file into iTunes)
- have ordered an AudioTechnica turntable
-using iMac G4...am I correct that it does not have a distinct "LINE IN"?
- So, will need iMic from Griffin
-will use Audacity (available free or lo cost with the iMic?
-Possibly use "ClickRepair" to rid of clicks and clacks in the music?
Clean the vinyl first (any suggestions what to use?)
connect turntable to iMac via iMic
put record on the platter
launch Audacity
start the turntable
tell Audacity to record into a non compressed format (so I can use ClickRepair).
after both software products have finished, import into iTunes?
As what? AiFF, Apple Lossless?
Any and all advice appreciated.
(This is birthday gift for hubby and I want to get it right !)
Message was edited by: Barbara Passman3

Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
The short version of what needs to be done is this:
* Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
* Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
* Clean the vinyl LP
* Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
* Record
* Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
* Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
Here is the long version:
*Hardware:
I suggest connecting your turntable to a stereo amplifier or pre-amplifier which has a "Phono" input. The (red and white) RCA plugs on the turntable would plug into the Phono jacks on the back of the amp. Then, use a stereo-RCA-to-1/8th-inch-minijack-cable (RadioShack) to connect a set of the amplifier's "Line Out" jacks to the Mac's audio "Line In" port.
If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
* RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
* Clean the vinyl LP:
First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
*Set up the Software:
For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
- Format - IF you have enough hard drive space, I would suggest you make the initial recording in 16 bit AIFF format at 44.1kHz. That is the standard format used by audio CDs, so this file type can be burned directly to CDs without conversion or compression. Every audio software application should be able to open an AIFF file.
If the AIFF files take up too much room on your hard drive, you can always convert them to MP3 or AAC, using your recording software or iTunes, but I suggest you first burn a copy of your AIFF recording to a CD, so you can go back to the original "master" recording in case you want to re-edit it later.
Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
- Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
- Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
- Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
* Record:
If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
If you are recording in the AIFF format, don't waste time naming albums, artists, and tracks in the recording software. That info is not encoded in the AIFF file, so when you move the file to iTunes you will have to rename everything again. Might work if you are recording in the MP3 format.
* Edit:
If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
"CD Spin Doctor" is somewhat useful, offering separate sliders for applying "De-click" De-crackle" and "De-hiss". The effect can quickly be previewed, and after you get the degree of adjustment you want, it can be applied to the whole file (works on AIFF, not MP3). My copy of CD Spin Doctor came with Toast Titanium 6, but I see it is now being sold on Roxio's site as a stand-alone application ($40 - http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/spindoctor/overview.html). Sadly, the improvement I've seen in LP noise has been less than miraculous.
Many reviewers say great things about SoundSoap2, but I was disappointed. It is the best noise reduction software I have tried, and also the most expensive ($129 - http://www.bias-inc.com/products/soundSoap2/), but I was unable to make much improvement in LP pops and scratches without also degrading the overall quality of the audio. It has a "Learn Noise" feature which is very cool - in theory. Find a groove to sample with pops (but no music) and SoundSoap2 will eliminate the same noise profile from the entire recording. There is another cool feature in which you can listen just to the "noise" which is to be removed - and there you will hear the learned "pop" also includes quite a bit of the music spectrum.
SoundSoap2 is pretty good at cleaning up hiss from tape recordings and wind noise from microphone recordings, but not so good for LPs.
Some editing software (like CD Spin Doctor and SoundSoap2) offer an "Exciter" or "Excitifier" effect which helps restore some of the brilliance and high end which is lost in noise reduction. This is one of the few effects which I've found to be useful, if used in moderation.
I haven't tried "ClickRepair" which I just learned about from this thread, but after reading the website (http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/) and Version Tracker, I'm hopeful that it will perform better than CD Spin Doctor and Soundsoap2. Thanks for the tip.
* Import into iTunes:
After I have the recording edited and cleaned, I import it into iTunes. At this stage I usually have AIFF files, one for each track on the LP. In iTunes, the album and tracks will have generic names (track 1, track 2, etc.), so I edit the Album name, track titles, genre, year, etc (File>Get info>Info tab); Select the whole album before "get info" to edit the Album, Artist, Genre and Year info, but select each track one-at-a-time to edit the Track titles.
Next, I burn one or two "master" copies of the edited recording as an audio CD form the AIFF files. Be aware that if you burn an audio CD, the album and track names you edited will appear only when you insert that CD back into the same Mac it was burned on - take it to another Mac or PC and all you will see are the Generic names (track 1, etc) - this is normal for an audio (AIFF) CD.
Because they take up so much room, I don't keep AIFF files on my hard drive - I use iTunes to convert them to MP3 files (Advanced>Convert Selection to MP3). You may want to use AAC or some other format, instead. Consider all possible future uses of your iTunes library (iPod vs non-Apple MP3 player, compatibility with the CD player in your car or home stereo, quality of your playback equipment, etc.)
To change the quality of the MP3 or AAC files imported to iTunes, go to: Preferenes>Advanced>Importing. (I use a Custom import setup of: High Quality (160kbps), Variable bit rate - a step up from the mor common 128kbps MP3.) Whatever settings you have selected here is what will be used when your AIFF files are converted to MP3. After converting the recording to MP3, I delete the AIFF file from iTunes (and my hard drive), but I keep my master (AIFF) CD in a safe, accessible location.
If I want a music mix to listen to in my car, or for a party, or for background music while I work, the MP3 files on my hard drive are fine. However, if I really want to listen to the music on quality playback equipment, I'll choose the CD I burned from the uncompressed (AIFF) file.
Hope this helps.

Audio recording/playback plays too fast, faster than Video

: Whenever I record sound from my computer, whether it's from my mic or just sounds playing on the computer, the recorded file always plays the audio faster than the video. I've checked the drivers and re-installed several times, even reformatted and it's still the same thing. I even played around with the hardware acceleration meter with trial and error and it end's up always the same.
What could be the problem?

Try turning off automatic exposure in the settings. And adjust some of the other settings (gamma, brightness, exposure) until you get a picture which you're happy with. And try that. In the UK, films are made at 24fps (frames per second) PAL format, and in America it's 30fps NTSC format. So yes, 30fps is as good as it gets! It's as good as TV and better than a lot of other webcams.

5G iPod playing thru laptop & music begins to drag/slow down....

my ipod is playing thru my laptop (work) and headsets. suddenly the songs have started to suddenly slow down then goes back to its normal speed. This is new - never happened before. I had to do the reset already. Worked fine yesterday.

Before this happens, I've not used the iPod speaker since I listen through blue tooth headphone. Maybe I've maxed the volume sometime when I watch movies on the iPod touch. And wait, I remember there was a video I watched and this video was basically full of distorted static sounds because it was recorded poorly (my iPod was at max volume when I started playing it and I stop it right away because its irritating). I think the lightning USB is also defective/damaged, because more weird things happens when it is plugged to the computer.
Does this thing covered by warranty? I think I have one-year warranty for this. I want to bring it to apple store

How can I get my (vinyl) record music into iTunes Match?

I have a rather large collection of music on CDs, Tapes, and records.
Now that iTunes Match exists I would like to include all of my music into my iTunes library.
There is no easy way (that I know of) to load anything except CDs into iTunes. So for the rest of the library one must either buy all the music again or buy equipment to play the music one time and convert it to a newer format.
My CD collection is mostly loaded and since 99.999% (virtually all) of that music is already in iTunes Match it is not uploaded to iTunes again, but it quickly becomes available to play on all my iTunes Authorized Devices.
With the exception of that 1 in ten thousand songs that I may have that iTunes does not have in the Match library there is no reason to import the music at all - other than to prove I have the actual CD's. (In any case I suppose I could have borrowed them for that anyway.)
However for CDs at least they can be imported - but for tapes and records I know of no direct way.
With something state-of-the-art like iTunes Match and my PC(s), iPhone(s) and iPad, why use stone-age-like means to prove ownership of outside-of-iTunes music?
Why not provide some other information to identify albums owned and have them available in iTunes Match without the 99.999% useless step of loading them?
In fact for most tape music it is no longer playable (to convert) as the rollers in the tape devices deteriorate and they no longer play.
Vinyl records play just fine, just not easily into a PC without purchase of expensive equipment that would be used only for the one-time load (which is really just for proof-of-ownership).
What a ridiculous waste of time, energy and funds for that 1 in 10,000 songs that may not yet exist in the iTunes Match library. Okay, as the music gets older it may even be 2 in 10,000 - but I doubt it.
I remember that each album (and 45 rpm single) has identifying information scratched into it (around the inside of the innermost track) - can that (or something else) suffice as proof of ownership to get the music into iTunes Match?
Please respond with ideas to quickly and easily get already-owned vinyl record music into an iTunes Match library.
I personally do not care if 1 (or 2) out of 10,000 of my songs gets lost because it is not in the iTunes Match library - couldn't be that good in that case anyway.
Thanks!!

I too have not figured out how to convert my vinyl collection to iTunes match. Here is what I have tried:
I record my vinyl records onto CD using a Sony RCD-W500C which makes a very high quality recording. I make sure the song lengths are the same as those from the same album at the iTunes store.
Then I import the CD into my iTunes music library. I have to enter the names of the tracks manually because Gracenote cannot identify the names of the songs. I do this while the music is in my iTunes music library and the CD has been ejected from my PC.
Then I try to get the iTunes Match, but it never works. I do, however, get the artwork from iTunes. iTunes then uploads my songs into the iCloud. When I download them back onto my PC and iPhone 4s, I get the identicle recording that I imported onto iTunes. I know this because I can hear the static and crackling of the vinyl. I don't necessarily mind that noise, but I figured if I paid for the iTunes Match I should get the AAC 256 bps music. After all it doesn't cost iTunes anything to give it to me. And there's no way I'm going to purchase all my vinyl records again. I have about 500 albums.
I do buy all my new music from iTunes because I think it is the best system available. I just think it could be so much better if they would let me download the highest quality recording of the music I own from them.
I have also tried the Sony Sound Forge Audio Studio which records my vinyl records into a music file on my PC. But that doesn't get the match either.
THERE HAS TO BE SOMEBODY OUT THERE THAT CAN TELL US WHAT ITUNES MATCH LOOKS AT IN OUR MUSIC UPLOADS THAT DETERMINES WHETHER THEY GIVE US THE MATCH!!!!!!
When you download a CD, there is some information embedded in the CD that iTunes matches. I don't believe there is any information embeded in the vinyl albums, but when I burn them onto a CD-maybe I could add the info onto the CD before trying to match it if I just knew what they looked for.
I would appreciate any help anyone can give me on this.

DVD Plays on computer drives, but not on dvd players

iDVD 06 - This is a new problem, just happened two days ago. Previous dvd's burned with idvd 06 work just fine on old and new dvd players. I always test them after burning. However this new project will only play on computer dvd drives (mac or pc) but not on my dvd players. The menu screen shows up, but when the play button is pushed it never starts. Disk is clean, re-burned dvd, re-exported the video and re-did the entire dvd, same issue. I have not changed any settings in iDVD 06.
Yes, I even re-installed idvd 06, but then somehow I lost some of my old themes (which happened to be the ones I wanted to use) I did back up my previous copy of idvd 06 which has my old plain themes that I love to use in the package, so I do have those. But if I bring them into the newley re-installed idvd 06, all the features do not work. Such as being able to change the type size on that paticular menu.
I am using Verbatim 8X DVD-R's and have successfully used these just the other day on another project! And those work just fine on an old and new dvd player!
I had to get these dvd's because my burner would not burn on the 16X DVD-R's that I recently bought.
DVD Burner information is:
SONY DVD RW DW-U10A:
Firmware Revision: A43h
Interconnect: ATAPI
Burn Support: Yes (Apple Shipped/Supported)
Cache: 0 KB
Reads DVD: Yes
CD-Write: -R, -RW
DVD-Write: -R, -RW
Burn Underrun Protection CD: Yes
Burn Underrun Protection DVD: Yes
Write Strategies: CD-TAO, CD-SAO, CD-Raw, DVD-DAO
Media: No
Computer information:
Machine Name: Power Mac G5
Machine Model: PowerMac7,2
CPU Type: PowerPC 970 (2.2)
Number Of CPUs: 1
CPU Speed: 1.8 GHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB
Memory: 1.5 GB
Bus Speed: 900 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 5.0.7f0
Any suggestions???
G-5 Mac OS X (10.4.9)

No rhyme or reason... but tried one more time after putting back my old copy of idvd 06 with my oldest themes in it, and I now have DVD's that will play on regular DVD players!
Now, if Apple could just get us a firmware update for the SONY DVD RW DW-U10A which came with my G-5 and then maybe we could all burn disks at the new 16X speed! Instead of limiting our possibilites.
Oh and yes, I did contact Sony about firmware updates. They informed me that this is really an OEM drive (whatever that is) and that Sony does not support it!

I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac. The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out. How do I get them recognized.

I used a usb turntable to import old vinyl records into iTunes. Then with the cloud and iTunes match I put them on another Mac. The songs come up in the music list but they are greyed out. How do I get them recognized. The symbol states the songs were downloaded from iCloud. I would like to get them to play so that I can make a playlist, and burn a CD.

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Unsync all music and resync
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.

Problem with vinyl recording

I specifically purchased the Soundblaster x-fi HD for vinyl recording to my computer. The problem is as the signal runs through the unit into my computer, i am unable to designate the different special effects available with this unit. I can record the record just fine but I was counting on being able to record vinyl and adding in the effects into the actual recorded file, but no matter what I do, i cannot get this to happen. Is it possible to do this with this particular unit, or if not, can you direct me to something that will? My email address is [email protected] Any info anybody can give me on this is deeply appreciated.

Jord, when I called it a "phenomenon" I did not mean to describe it as a bug or fault - you're right, it is a desireable feature of cycle recording.
As far as your question goes: Suppose you are recording track-by-track a song with two parts, an acoustic guitar and vocals, and the acoustic guitar part has an intricate eight-bar solo that needs to be redone. The advantage of using cycle recording and autodrop here is that you could define a cycle region giving you a two-bar intro (say) to the part you need to rerecord and a couple of bars of outro, making it easier to accomplish a musical phrasing. For example, say you're a vocalist trying to record a one-octave scale, and your pitch is off on the "fa-so." With cycle recording and autodrop, you could sing along with the "do-re-mi" and settle your pitch before rerecording the notes you flubbed, whereas (as I understand it) if you're just rerecording the "fa-so" in cycle mode, you won't get the "do-re-mi" as an intro after the first pass and would then just hope that you're nailing the notes you need to rerecord cold.
You can combine cycle recording with autodrop in Midi - why not in audio? It's a desireable feature in both.

Recording and playing sound input from mic simultaneously in iphone/ipad

I want to simultaneously record and play the sound from a mic in iphone. As thecricket commentory application.
Please provide me a solution for this.
Is this possible in iOs.

This probably isn't going to sound very helpful, for which I apologise in advance, but I'm afraid it's the truth...
The only way you stand any way of doing any of this is by using ASIO4ALL, which can aggregate different drivers from multiple devices. But I don't rate your chances too highly, I'm afraid - USB mics have long been the problem child of computer-based audio. On top of that, you are trying to get sounds in and out of a separate device at the same time - not only that, but it's a Creative Labs gamer's device and they are second only to USB mics in terms of the 'difficult' stakes - search this forum!
A much, much better way to attempt to do this would be to use a sensible ASIO external device with sufficient inputs, and a mic that plugs into it, not a USB one. That way you could route the inputs and outputs appropriately, and use the device's monitoring so that you could monitor what you need to. I wouldn't attempt to do anything like this any other way, I'm afraid. Another approach (which can be made to work well) is to use an external mixer to do most of the work - often it's easier to set up the monitoring on these. You can get mixers with the appropriate interface built-in, and they don't cost a fortune either. Mackie and Behringer make suitable devices.

IN SL can't get chime to play thru external speakers

In 10.5 all my computer's sounds were set to be played thru external speakers. Now I can't get the startup chime to do it as it only plays thru the INTERNAL.
Any reason?
rd

Older Macs could play the startup chime through external speakers plugged into the headphone socket; but from a few years back this changed and on modern Macs the chime always comes from the built-in speakers.

Vinyl Records - Remember those?

Yes, yes... I'm really that old that I have a collection of old vinyl records that I'd like to put on my ipod. The recorder I am using to burn them to CD creats the entire album as one long track. Naturally, I don't want the whole album as one long song on my ipod, so was wondering if there is an easy way to split the tracks of a single song on a CD to seperate tracks on my ipod. Your help would be appreciated!
Thanks

Try this nifty little program:
http://www.goldwave.com/
Before splitting into tracks, you'll want to normalize the volume to 90% and possibly do noise reduction for the clicks, pops and hiss. When you do start splitting, you mark the first area you want (for track 1) and save it, then hit delete to remove it. Then start from the beginning again and mark (and save) track 2, repeating for the entire album side. You can even use this program to do fadeouts and other fun stuff...

Recording/Copying vinyl records to a MacBookPro to CD

Being new to Mac and iTunes, is there a recommended method to copy older vinyl records to CD via my MacBook Pro? Is there a device that plugs into a turntable or tuner that converts the signal to digital that can then be copied to a CD?
I would appreciate any help and suggestions.
WM

I purchased an Ion usb turntable from Costco that comes with IZ vinyl converter/and Audacity. So far it works except I have not been able to hear the file once I play it from the iTunes library. The process was pretty easy and the price was $125 for the turntable which came with the conversion software belt drive turntable , and stylus. Any help as to why the files to do not have audio would help.
Joe

I want to record a vinyl record directly to my iPad from my USB turntable

I just bought a new turntable and I have many old vinyl records. Can I record these records directly to my iPad Air? The turntable has a USB output. I could the audio files into my computer but I prefer to do it directly to the iPad if possible.

If you want to try it, go for it. However videos are imported via the photos app and that only works for photos and videos that follow a very strict naming convention. The reason you get sound on a video is that it's all packaged as the .mp4, .m4v etc of the video file. The connection itself only sees photo and video files. It doesn't see documents and doesn't see audio files. Maybe there's an app out there that does.
one thing to bear in mind, in 2011 Apple changed the amount of power allocated to the port, and available to the camera connection kit (that's what you're seeing that has the USB in) so stuff that worked prior to that sometimes didn't work after.

Vinyl records (yes)played thru computer

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