WAP200E and WAP200 as repeaters, external antennas, poor signal

I am having some weird things happen...
I have setup a WAP200E external w/o optional antenna and using (2) WAP200 internal units in separate buildings setup as repeaters. I have added a external
Yagi 10Dbi directional antenna to both repeaters with short cables and using the standard antenna for the internal wireless needs.
Both buildings are about 200' line of sight from the WAP200E with a angle of less then 45 degrees from the WAP200E,
I am getting a signal that continually jumps from 20% - 60% Channel keep changing etc... looks like a typically poor signal connection
I am able to access the internet from either repeater, but not reliably
Question 1: External Antenna....
I was going to install a similar external Yagi antenna on WAP200E but I was reading that the external antenna in turned on automatically when the WAP200E
senses a antenna. Cisco only certifies one particular antenna to connect to the WAP200E and that is the HGA9N which is a 9DBI omni directional antenna
I would much rather use a directional antenna, but I was reading that the WAP200E may not reconize any other antenna's, plus I cant find any way to determine if the WAP200E actually turns on the external antenna. Does anyone have any experience using the WAP200E with external antennas?
Question 2:
SSID's on repeaters
On the WAP200E and WAP200 units, It show that that repeaters can have unique SSID's I tested them using the same SSID as the A/P and also with unique SSID's Which approach would be the more reliable?
Question 3:
Freq Channels setting:
Typically I would set the channel to be fixed on all three units to keep them from hopping from channel to channel. Is my logic correct?
Is there any way to determine which channel is the best, beside trial and error?
Also, can I lock the speed to a slower setting to help improve reliability?
Question 4:
Bridging:
I was considering setting up one of the repeaters as a bridge can the WAP200E A/P handle communicating with a bridge and a repeater at the same time?
Does anyone have any experience using these as bridges? I see a few issues online regarding briging with these units
Wireless is tough enough, but flakey wireless product can make you wish had a wire
Firmware... 1.20 on the WAP200E A/P unit.. I guess I will try 1.20a but the blogs say it doesnt matter
Firmware on the WAP200 unit is unknown at the moment
Thanks in advance

Update...
After speaking with Linksys support staff, they informed me that the antenna jacks on the WAP200 are slightly different
One jack is TX & RX and the other jack is RX only...
It is not documented or labeled as such on the device.
The support person told me it was the right jack when facing the rear of the unit with the network jack facing you. but this is the way I
had it configured... so for giggles I swapped the antenna jacks and presto it works fine
Many thanks
Bob

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Usb wi fi external antenna

We live on a small (26') sailboat and are presently in a marina at Joe
Wheeler State Park in Alabama. Currently we are on the fringes of both
the verizon network and the marina wi fi. Very frustrating to sit on
the boat and not get either connection.
So. I am hunting for an antenna that I can mount outside and plug into the Verizon 760 and a
seperate one I can use for wi fi through USB. My mast is 34 ft. tall and the
spreaders are at about 20 ft. so would need about 20+ feet of wire. I
could mount them lower but it might get hung up in the sail.
Harry and Barbara
[email protected]

Hi Harry and Barbara,
With an external antenna (if at all applicable), signal loss in the antenna cable could be considerable.
A plain USB cable extension has its limitations, too:
http://www.usb.org/about/faq/ans5
Alternatively, for the Wi-Fi part, you could possibly experiment with a method where a properly positioned wireless Ethernet bridge (also known as a gaming adapter) is used. The device would have to be made weather-proof to begin with. With Ethernet and low-voltage power cables connected, the unit should be able to act as a remote transceiver, thus allowing you to gain access to the local Wi-Fi network.
Examples:
http://homestore.cisco.com/en-us/adapters/linksys-WET610N_stcVVproductId65221232 VVcatId543809VVviewprod.htm?icid=All-Linksys-Products-Bridges&src2=home_linksys_ bridge_all
http://www.netgear.com/home/products/wireless-adapters/high-performance/WNCE2001 .aspx
For the mobile broadband, a mobile broadband router (with support for the USB modem stick in question) could make it easier to find a position with better reception. It might even be possible to, somehow, connect the wireless Ethernet bridge to the router.
Example:
http://www.netgear.com/home/products/mobile-broadband/3g-mobile/MBRN3000.aspx
Jan

When I use a GSI external antenna for WiFi I first get a message that "Firefox is already running but not responding etc", and then Firefox crashes. Can anyone help please?

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Try Ubuntu support, I don't think your problem is with Firefox - it will use the connection that the Operating System "makes". I'm a real noob with Ubuntu myself, and don't think I can help you figure out the problem.
http://ubuntuforums.org/

Problem on Cisco AP 1240AG and External Antenna

Hi all :
I am setting and configure the Cisco AP 1240AG with 5GHz External Antenna extension. The whole product is called iWap. The problem now is that the wireless signal amplitude only can reach 3 bars instaed of ful 5 bars.
Please help below few questions I have for this setup and configuration :
1. What is the default or original frequency of antenna of Cisco AP1240AG? Can a 5GHz antenna work with the AP 1240AG whereby it is run with 802.11a and 802.11g?
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Many Thanks in advance and best regards,
tangsuan

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http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/wireless/ps5678/ps6521/prod_large_photo0900aecd8031d92d.jpg
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Nokia 3315 with cradle and external antenna(car an...

I have an old 3315 and I use it on a boat with an external antenna to get a better calling range.
My old 3315 is now having repair problems and I want to buy (on eBay) a more modern phone but still use the cradle and external antenna. A problem with the 3315 is that they are becoming uncommon and the ones that are available have been well used and often have tech problems now.
I see that the 3310 has a similar shape and no doubt the cradle fits it also. I have the antenna on a long piece of coax cable and pull it up the mast on the sailboat to improve the reception.
Can anyone give me some help with this? The more modern I go the more features I get (eg mp3 player,radio reception) however I still want to retain the existing external antenna setup as it is great for camping and boating to stay in touch.
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Peter

Also, what is the length of the cable, and what is the model No of the cradle?
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There's a couple things.
You could hook up a laptop at the receiving end and attach a directional antenna to the wireless card. Then use something like netstumbler to position everything where you want it.
I guess you could also use a laser pointer. Mount it on the top of the antenna in question, and target the receiving antenna. Obviously, have the minion you're using on the other side face AWAY from the laser pointer. ;)

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To answer my own query - I just spoke to someone at Smoothtalker and was informed that Smoothtalker will be releasing a charging cradle, with external antenna conttection, for the "Tour" in "about a month."
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Hi Everyone - I'm new to this, so please excuse me if my question is naive.
I have a fault with my airport extreme card, which I believe I've narrowed down to either the external antenna or the socket it plugs into on the rear panel. I know I can replace the antenna, but can anyone help with the rear antenna socket - is it possible to replace this and, if so, where could I get one from?
I would be most grateful for any advice.

It is possible to replace the antenna board. AppleComponents.com has the parts, but you'll need to be careful to select the correct computer. Your signature states that you have a dual 2.0, but there were three different 2.0 DP machines. The part is not common amongst all of the models.
The install is not the easiest either. It will require you to remove the upper processor and a few other components. If you remove a processor, you'll need to run the thermal recalibration routine from the service discs. This is true even if you reinstall the processor in the same socket. An Apple Authorized Service Provider will have this disc, or you can locate it yourself with enough searching.

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Cisco AIR-AP1242AG-E-K9.
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In the case of a Dish, yes, it would absolutely impact your throughput.
It would be better to put the dish on one port and disable the other port.
The dual ports are for diversity; in an inside environment, having two antennas a small distance apart reduces the effects of "multipath" and "nulls" ... multipath is when there are several images of the same transmission (from multiple reflections), nulls occur when you combine a series of waves (like a primary wave and a near reflection) and the combined waves, added together, result a greatly diminished signal (like a "plus" 35 meeting a "minus" 35 ... the result is a null, or no signal).
For point-to-point, or point-to-multipoint diversity is generally not desired or needed.
The way the antennas are used does not permit efficient operation for coverage of more than one specific area.
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Aironet 1260 and external Antenna

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You can't mix-and-match these two. AIR-ANT-24120 is a 12 dBi antenna. The 1260 will not support anything higher than 6 dBi because this model simply doesn't have enough power to do so.
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solution for connecting an external antenna
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Hello there, I'm hoping someone can help me with a little info. I have a very poor signal in my workshop, but I have an old Nokia 6310i which has an external aerial socket.
RS used to sell a short lead which converted the nokia port to a "standard" type connector.
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The intention is to put the aerial outside on a post, high up, I think you use 50ohm cable? Can anyone confirm this?
Then I can use a blue tooth ear piece to recieve calls. Well the the theory anyway. Any advice would be very welcome. Many thanks Baz

Couplers are very sensitive lo location.
Depending on the type of coupler there are "near field" couplers and so called "far field" couplers.
Most consumer couplers are near field as they are simpler and cheaper. They require that the antenna is almost touching the coupler. Also the orientation matters a lot, as the RF signal is polarized (trust me unless you are a telecom engineer you don't want to know).
Lastly couplers tend to have a significant loss of signal, the loss of signal could be greater than the gain the antenna provides, thus nullifying the effect of gain. But since the antenna can be located in a better place there are other benefits.
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Yagi antennas are highly directional so you have to be pointing exactly where the base station is in order to get any gain. The length of cable you use and the connectors is also very important, you can loose more signal in long cables with poor connectors that what you gain with the antenna.
If you need more specific information feel free to send me an IM.Message Edited by el_loco on 23-Aug-200705:29 PM
640K Should be enough for everybody
El_Loco Nokia Video Blog

External antenna connection

I have poor coverage at home (all networks), and am using a car kit antenna to boost the signal on my 6310i.
I want to upgrade to a Symbian 60 handset, probably Nokia N70, but as far as I can see, there is no external antenna connection point.
Is one of the pins in the POP Port a proper antenna connection? If not, can you suggest an alternative Symbian 60 model which has an external antenna connection point.
I read also about acoustic couplers, but never seen or used one. I wd be grateful for comments on their efficacy, I am doubtful whether an indirect connection will give me the boost I need.

The new pop port cradles do not have the same hard wired connection like on your 6310I, it uses a passive repeat system which transmits into the back of the phone, these are not as good as the old type but it mainly depends on what type of antenna you have on the car & where it is mounted.
Hope this helps
Danny b
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If my answers help you, give me a Kudos. Its like a pat on the back.

The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?

I have recently switched from a PC to a MacBook Pro.
I have a large number of documents and photographs on a multiterrabite external drive, backed up on a second multiterrabite external drive.
Both external drives are formatted for MacIntosh. This has been verified by agents at an Apple store and also at Best Buy in two different cities.
This is the problem:
The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?
Also, the MacBook Pro will not allow me to rename multiple documents or photographs. I can click-and-rename a single one, but this is impossibly time consuming. I can batch-rename in iPhoto, but when I transfer the photographs to the external drive, the rename does not transfer.
I’m reduced to using my wife’s Toshiba to cut-and-past, rename, and transfer documents. It works perfectly. Is there any way to do this on the MacBook Pro?
Thanks!
Roderick Guerry
[email protected]

Roderick Guerry wrote:
The MacBook Pro will not allow me to cut-and-paste to and from or to click-and-drag to the external drive. I can copy-and-paste, but then I must send the original to the trash, which doubles the time and effort. Is there any way to cut-and-paste?
No, this is a philosophical difference between Apple and Microsoft. Apple believes that it's dangerous to cut a file in case the user never pastes it; in that case the file is lost. Microsoft seems to not have this problem (if I remember Windows correctly) because they don't delete the originating file if it's cut but never pasted.
Even though Macs have a lot of keyboard shortcuts, philosophically Macs have traditionally been mouse-first. This applies to file copy operations. In your case, what a Mac user would do is open the source window, open the destination window (on your second drive), and then Command-drag the selected files from the source to destination window. This is because a normal drag would leave the originals behind, while adding the Command modifier key tells OS X that this is a Move, not a Copy, so don't leave the originals behind.
(In addition there are different rules for drag-copying within the same volume or between different volumes. If you drag between two folders on the same volume, the files are moved. If you drag between different volumes, the files are copied unless you hold down Command to delete the copies on the source volume.)
Roderick Guerry wrote:
Also, the MacBook Pro will not allow me to rename multiple documents or photographs. I can click-and-rename a single one, but this is impossibly time consuming. I can batch-rename in iPhoto, but when I transfer the photographs to the external drive, the rename does not transfer.
Two problems in this case. First, batch file renaming is not built into OS X unless you build something with Automator. However, there are many utilities that can do batch file renaming which you can find at macupdate.com or on the App Store. Since I work with media I often batch rename using one of the media managers I have lying around like Media Pro or Adobe Bridge (comes with Photoshop).
iPhoto is a database front end designed to shield the file system from the consumer and let them concentrate on creativity and sharing. As such it is often a poor choice for managing files directly. When you "transferred the photographs" chances are you moved the originals, not the ones iPhoto edited which are stored in a hidden folder.
Roderick Guerry wrote:
I’m reduced to using my wife’s Toshiba to cut-and-past, rename, and transfer documents. It works perfectly. Is there any way to do this on the MacBook Pro?
There will not be a way to do it exactly like Windows. As described above, there are ways to do it "the Mac way." If it is possible to remove judgment on which way is "better" you might find the Mac way to be acceptable, but of course sometimes we simply prefer what we're used to.

Can you use an external antenna with the 4G LTE Router with Voice?

I live in a black hole of cell service - very rural, in a valley surrounded by trees, no DSL, no cable, no other options except satellite internet which I did for 15 years and will never do again. My current data setup is a Pantech UML290 USB modem connected to a Cellphone-Mate full band outdoor Omni 3G/4G antenna on the roof. I just ordered an amplifier to boost the 4G LTE connection. The modem is plugged into a Cradlepoint MBR900 router, which then provides my home internet (way more than 10 devices, and mostly wired).
Is there a way to add the antenna and amplifier setup to the broadband router with voice so I can be assured of the signal? If so, could I then use this router to feed the Cradlepoint and continue using multiple wired devices?
I was set to order this router last night, but the CSR through chat told me that you cannot attach antenna to the router with voice - only to the one with data. This really doesn't make any sense to me, but she was firm about it. If I can attach, can I use the cables I have or will I need a different adapter?
There is so little information about this particular router. My current setup is doing fairly well, but I would love the option to drop my landline and increase signal strength for both voice and data. With no antenna, the modem gets around -125 db, and can't connect at all. With the antenna mounted on the roof, and routed through the Cradlepoint, I consistently get -85 db. 4G LTE speeds are around 15-19 Mb/s down and very inconsistent 2.5-4.0 Mb/s up. However, the 4G drops and resets multiple times a day, so I usually sacrifice the speed to get a more stable 4.5-5 Mb/s down and 0.5 Mb/s up through forced 3G.
Voice calls are spotty if received at all, and frequently drop immediately if there is any connection. And of course, the data limit has been a nightmare. I could potentially save some money by porting my landline to Verizon, but not if there is no way to boost the signals. The Omni antenna will boost all, but not sure if there's any way to route the existing antenna setup to feed both the voice and data sides, or if it would be enough to allow me to do this. This router also says it's 4G LTE only, but the specs on the antenna they sell say it boosts 3G for failover, so not sure if it will grab anything else. Any help or advice GREATLY appreciated! Thanks for reading through the whole thing.

No, not directly. You would need to transfer your data from your iPad to your Mac and then back it up to an external drive.
Pete

WAP200E and WAP200 as repeaters, external antennas, poor signal

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