Water Spilled on 2011 MacBook Pro

Hi all,
I need help as to what to do next and whether or not I have a chance at saving my laptop.
I had a thermos of hot-ish water with a tea bag on my desk next to my 2011 MacBook Pro. My Mac has a keyboard cover, and a hard plastic case on both parts of the laptop.
About 3 ounces of water spilled onto my computer on the left between the keyboard and screen. At contact, the screen went immediately black and within a couple seconds I dried up the water with paper towels. I also removed the cases and cover and dried up the few drops that had leaked through that.
Now my computer is in a cool dry place and I haven't attempted to turn it on at all. I've already made an Apple Store appointment but I want to hear from other users as to what I can do from home.
Thank you for your help!

Youre out of luck, considering the spill and immediate blackout, trying to "dry it out" is a lost cause.
Everyone likes the "dry it out and turn it on" ploy, but it doesnt work, after major damage, not a chance.
Make a service call to Apple for likely logic board replacement and otherwise.

Similar Messages

I spilled on my 2011 macbook pro, will not charge

I spilled hot chocolate on my 2011 macbook pro, and it only got along the bottom front left edge of the computer, and not into any ports or on my charger. Charger was plugged in at the time. Computer shut off a couple of minutes after, so I restarted it,and the fan was running very loudly. \the trackpad was a little bit messed up, so I did an SMP reset and the computer is now fine. However, my charger will not work. When plugged into the laptop, it doesn't charge and the light doesn't come on, though it has no visible damage. Is the problem with the laptop or charger? Could the computer have damaged he charger at the time of the spill? Could the hot chocolate have seeped into the seam on the bottom of my computer? It was only wet for about 15 seconds.

Normally, if electronic device suffers from the accident of liquid spill, you should shut down them and plug off power supply immediately to avoid possible electricity broken. In fact, it is not easy to detect visible damage by visual look. In regard to your example, i mean hot chocolate actually penetratres electronic component inside your computer and cause the fault for hardware system. What you need to do is remove the computer case and try to dry internal electrical circuit out. If this method doesn't work, you should bring to repair service. Good luck !

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

2011 Macbook Pro Overheating *VIDEO*

Well, I must say that I am really disappointed with the current 2011 Macbook pro lineup. This was my first Mac, I must say that I was really excited to finally own one. As I started using it, I noticed how hot the laptop was getting and how loud the fans were. While I was typing a simple E-mail, my palms were getting really hot and was a very uncomfortable feeling. I've been around friends who have own previous models and all have been very quiet and also fairly cool.
I started to get curious so I started reading the temps and it was a staggering 90c degrees! This was just while web browsing, having iTunes loaded and just doing normal day to day stuff. I immediately went online and did a Google search for "2011 Macbook Pro Overheating". I come to find out that it is a common problem. What was most disappointing to me was the fact that Apple is fully aware of this problem and has disabled Turbo Boost on the 13.3" Core i7 while running Bootcamp. So technically speaking, your better off buying the Core i5 model as it will run faster.
I decided to return the laptop, I feel it's deceiving to buy a product that really doesn't perform at it's full potential (It's like buying a Ferrari and only be able to go 60MPH). My batter life was also terrible, I was lucky if I got 3.5 hours under normal web browsing. I think this had a lot to do with the fact that the fan kept spinning at full speed every 2 minutes.
I hope this post doesn't come off as a flame, but rather constructive criticism on Apple's design to improve their products. I truly believe that Apple needs to redesign their Macbook Pro lineup to accept modern processors that run a lot hotter compared to when the Macbook Pro was first introduced. The fact that it has no ventilation in the bottom like every computer out there poses a huge problem with newer processors. I understand the aesthetics portion of the design, but I would much rather have a few small vent holes to keep the processor running cool and maintain a longer life for the hardware.
Lastly, before anyone say's that I got a "defective" one I want to say that this was my 2nd 2011 Macbook Pro as the first one was returned due to the same problems. Here is my video of my experience - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_azMBStJnY

I am having a similar problem. Bought MacBook Pro 17" 16 months ago and after about 9 months, routinely, daily, but no particular time I got a black screen suddenly.
(This is running Windows 7 all the time.)
So daily it has been doing this except for a 3 week visit to Europe ... weird. Yet while in Europe no change in usage. Software or hardware. Except that in US I have it plugged often into a bigger monitor. And sometimes have lid closed but not for the past month while being back.
Return to US and within 2 weeks, suddenly black screen of death anytime during the day, keyboard in use or not.
Called Apple finally yesterday ... they need to know if it happens under Apple IOS. No idea. So for 1 1/2 days ran Apple and did nothing! No black screen.
But what I have noticed is that when it does go black the bodyis HOT!!! Especially between the screen hinge and F keys to the left.
Today I did two more things ... installed gotomypc to see if when it goes black if the laptop is functional, just dead video. I will try to remote in when it goes "dead".
Also I put a load of coins on the laptop where it gets hot to absorb the heat and do they ever!
One thing ... the first time I ever saw this black screen symptom it RECOVERD after 3-4 seconds and gave off an error message like
“Display driver stopped responding and has recovered” error.
So based on researching this, it sounds like the video card needs replacing OR a driver update OR a bath in cold water?

SOLUTION: DOES MY 2011 MACBOOK PRO HAVE 3G OR 6G IN OPTICAL BAY FOR SSD? *ANSWER*

Hey guys, I just wanted to share the love and tell you I've finally spoken with Apple tech support (had to go through a handful of them to find the answer).. I have a [b][u]Late 2011 MacBook Pro (8,2) (MacBookPro8,2)[/b][/u], which was [B]*PURCHASED ON APRIL 4, 2012*[/B] and wanted to upgrade both the main HD and the optical bay/SuperDrive with Dual SSD's.. but saw so much conflicting info. on the internet about how some 2011 MacBook Pros only have 3G capabilities for the optical drive, where others (released later on) had 6G drive capabilities in BOTH the main drive and optical drive bay..
so now I'm probably sure you're asking yourself...
WHICH CONNECTOR DOES MY MACBOOK PRO SUPPORT FOR A [B]2ND SSD IN THE OPTICAL DRIVE/SUPERDRIVE BAY?[/B]
3G (SATA-II) OR 6G (SATA-III)
I literally had to call Apple a half a dozen times, spoke to 2 different managers, and then eventually got them to spill the beans.. The thing with Apple is that they beat around the bush big time when it comes to things like you personally replacing/upgrading components.. As soon as you bring up the connector for the optical bay, they start asking questions.. It eventually took me to 5th call to end up speaking with some chill dude who was able to pull up my "About My Mac" and interpret if I were part of the 2011-MacBook Pro releases which had the (6G main + 3G optical) or the group that had the (6G main + 6G optical).. Literally tried everywhere on the internet, but SO HAPPY to finally have a solid answer from Apple themselves..
[b]My specific MacBook Pro Model:[/b]
[u]MacBook Pro (8,2) - Late 2011 (purchased April 4, 2012) - 2.4GHz Intel Core i7 - 15"[/u]
[B][U]*SOLUTION*[/B][/U]
If you pull open your "About this Mac", click "More Info", and then "System Report", click on "SATA" on the left column, and then if your stats in those windows match the stats from the 2 screenshots I posted, then your Optical Drive Bay/SuperDrive is equipped and handle a 6G/SATA-III drive or SSD! I'm pretty sure that it doesn't matter at all what your "MacBookProX,x" number is, as long as you have #'s that match mine in those screenshots, you're good to go!
ENJOY!

Could you provide some rationale(s) behind it? As far as I know, the mid 2010 Macbook Pro, the HDD is running via the SATA interface at running at 3.0 Gb/s, which is SATA II, and the Super-drive and/or the Optical drive, which is also running via SATA II interface, so I would assume the performance (i.e. primarily in speed) would be similar if not the same by placing the SSD drive in either one of the two places.
Also, wouldn't it be better by placing the SSD in the optical so the OEM HDD could be kept in the original main bay since it has the shock-sensing feature there?

My 2011 macbook pro won't church or turn on connected to mains??

my 2011 macbook pro won't church or turn on connected to mains?? help

I went through the same issue with my 17" 2009 macbook pro. No luck. I even went to the extraordinary effort to crack open the case and remove battery and power up to make sure it was not a battery issue. [Well, you disconnect the cable, no need to physically remove the battery]
(Note, I verified this was safe because I found the official apple support manual and this was listed as one of the diagnostic steps to determine if the battery died). -- don't do this unless you know proper anti-static procedures and have the right tools for the job.
But point of this response is I do have good news. I took it to the apple store today, and the genius bar tech told me about a flat rate repair for $310.00. He said as long as I didn't damage anything like spilling a coke on it, then this flat rate price covers replacing logic board, battery, even both if need be. Heck, buying a replacement logic board, which is worst case scenario costs more than twice this amount.
P.S. there are also two hardware SMC reset pins (labeled SMC reset) on the motherboard, but I did not manually short them to force a hardware reset even though I saw a web hit explaining I should do this. Reason is that this was not mentioned in the apple service manual, and since I was going to the apple store anyway in hopes it was just a battery then I wasn't going to risk doing something that wasn't documented in the official support manual. So personally, I wouldn't try that unless you don't have the $310 for a sure thing repair.
Bottom line, I'm tickeled to death that Apple has a $310 all-inclusive deal. The 800 number for apple tech support person said the motherboard will cost around $800 and he wasn't aware of any special "deals".

How can I connect my Early 2011" Macbook Pro 13" inch, with a generic Mini Display Port to HDMI connector, to a LG 32LD340 LCD TV, using Mountain Lion 10.8.2?

I have an Early 2011" macbook pro 13 inch (core i5 2.3ghz 4gb ram 320hdd) with Mountain Lion 10.8.2, and I want to connect it via Mini DP to HDMI connector, and a HDMI cable to a LCD TV LG 32LD340. When I had Lion OS, I had no problems at all.

If you have an external drive equal to or larger than your internal HD, clone your internal to it with either Carbon Copy Cloner or Super Duper. Test the clone to make sure it's bootable. Then upgrade either one. Try it out first.

Hi i cannot change the brightness on my late 2011 macbook pro.

Hi i cannot change the brightness on my late 2011 macbook pro. It is stuck on the lowest level in which i can't view the screen without a flash light. Please i need help how to solve this. I was on my computer when i checked the back which it was really dusty, i tried unscrewing the bottom however some screws were too tight so i took it upon myself and got a rod and startedremoving the dust off the vents and i may have clicked something as i closed the lid on the macbook i could hear the sounds still from the film but the lid was closed as i opened it back up the brightness was on low but sounds were still playing. All the buttons work , all of the F keys, apart from the brightnes keys. I can shine a tourch on the screen and see the display but the brightness will not change but i can see when i click the brightness it says it changes. I have connected it to a spare tv i have via hdmi and i really need help as this is my primary computer and i need it for work when going away. Thank you

Try SMC and PRAM resets:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1379
Ciao.

How do I use my mid 2010 iMac as display with mid 2011 macbook pro?

I have a mid 2010 iMac and I want to use it as a display for my mid 2011 macbook pro.
The iMac has a mini display port and the macbook has a thunderbolt port.
Does anyone know if this is possible and what I need to make it possible?
Cheers!
-Sean

If the iMac is a 21-inch model, you need to use a product such as ScreenRecycler over a network.
If the iMac is a 27-inch model, click here and follow the instructions.
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I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro which has been running slow for a while. After looking at responses to similar problems I have downloaded and run EtreCheck and will post the output. Please can someone help me with what it all means.Thanks in advance

I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro which has been running slow for a while. After looking at responses to similar problems I have downloaded and run EtreCheck. Please can someone help me with what it all means.
Thanks in advance.
EtreCheck version: 1.9.15 (52)
Report generated 19 September 2014 08:07:14 GMT+8
Hardware Information: ?
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Early 2011) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
1 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Video Information: ?
Intel HD Graphics 3000 - VRAM: 384 MB
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ?
OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 0 days 0:4:29
Disk Information: ?
Hitachi HTS545032B9A302 disk0 : (320.07 GB)
S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 319.21 GB (147 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-898
USB Information: ?
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Thunderbolt Information: ?
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ?
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ?
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecDriverCore (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_4 (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_5 (5.2.4 - SDK 10.5) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.SeagateDriveIcons (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[loaded] com.sophos.kext.sav (9.1.55 - SDK 10.7) Support
[loaded] com.sophos.nke.swi (9.1.50 - SDK 10.8) Support
Launch Daemons: ?
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.autoupdate.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.configuration.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.intercheck.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.notification.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.scan.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.sxld.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.webd.plist Support
[running] com.trusteer.rooks.rooksd.plist Support
Launch Agents: ?
[loaded] com.divx.dms.agent.plist Support
[loaded] com.divx.update.agent.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.uiserver.plist Support
[running] com.trusteer.rapport.rapportd.plist Support
User Launch Agents: ?
[loaded] com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist Support
[running] com.amazon.music.plist Support
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist Support
[not loaded] jp.co.canon.Inkjet_Extended_Survey_Agent.plist Support
User Login Items: ?
iTunesHelper
TomTomHOMERunner
AdobeResourceSynchronizer
Dropbox
Internet Plug-ins: ?
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 15.0.0.152 - SDK 10.6 Support
DivX Web Player: Version: 3.2.1.977 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
Flash Player: Version: 15.0.0.152 - SDK 10.6 Support
EPPEX Plugin: Version: 10.0 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
OVSHelper: Version: 1.1 Support
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.4.4 - SDK 10.6 Support
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - SDK 10.7
Safari Extensions: ?
Ultimate
Audio Plug-ins: ?
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins: ?
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
3rd Party Preference Panes: ?
Flash Player Support
Perian Support
Trusteer Endpoint Protection Support
Time Machine: ?
Skip System Files: NO
Auto backup: YES
Volumes being backed up:
Macintosh HD: Disk size: 297.29 GB Disk used: 160.38 GB
Destinations:
Data [Network] (Last used)
Total size: 2 TB
Total number of backups: 99
Oldest backup: 2012-04-20 17:05:32 +0000
Last backup: 2014-09-18 23:49:25 +0000
Size of backup disk: Excellent
Backup size 2 TB > (Disk size 297.29 GB X 3)
Time Machine details may not be accurate.
All volumes being backed up may not be listed.
Top Processes by CPU: ?
      6% InterCheck
      5% iCalExternalSync
      3% WindowServer
      2% CalendarAgent
      2% SystemUIServer
Top Processes by Memory: ?
152 MB SophosScanD
147 MB InterCheck
106 MB SophosAntiVirus
66 MB Dropbox
57 MB com.apple.iTunesLibraryService
Virtual Memory Information: ?
161 MB Free RAM
1.55 GB Active RAM
1.41 GB Inactive RAM
902 MB Wired RAM
611 MB Page-ins
0 B Page-outs

Uninstall Trusteer software
http://www.trusteer.com/support/uninstalling-rapport-mac-os-x
Remove Sophos
https://discussions.apple.com/message/21069437#21069437

How to install W.7 on 2011 Macbook pro which doesn't come with bootcamp dvd?

how to install W.7 on 2011 Macbook pro which doesn't come with bootcamp dvd?

Use the Boot Camp Assistant in the /Applications/Utilities/ folder to put the Boot Camp drivers onto an optical disk or USB thumbdrive.
(80603)

LaCie Desktop Manager doesn't recognize LaCie RAID with my 2011 MacBook Pro

Hello,
I have a new MacBook Pro 17" but I am not able to use the LaCie Desktop Manager with the LaCie 4big Quadra Enterprise Class RAID. The drive is recognized by the finder via eSATA, FireWire, USB, but is not recognized by the LaCie Desktop Manager. This prevents me from encrypting the drive. The LaCie Desktop Manager could recognize the raid with my early 2008 MacBook Pro.
I'd like to know if anyone else is having the same problem with their 2011 MacBook Pro.
I have been communicating with LaCie support but he tells me that he can't check the same or similar configuration as mine.
Thanks,
Dennis

Looks like the cable is the same if you still have the 2010.
http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Pro-15-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Mid-201 0-Early-2011-SATA-SuperDrive-Cable/IF161-040

WIP: My adventures with 2011 MacBook Pro and Windows 8.1 including seconday HDD

So I've just lost about 3 days of my life trying to install Windows 8.1 (my preferred) operating system on a Late 2011 MacBook Pro.
I feel that I've learnt a lot and hopefully can share my experiences to speed a few of you along the process. This is my own experience please let me know if anything I have documented is not true and I will revise for completeness
What my initial goal was to have a dual HD set up with an SSD running both Mac OSX and Windows 8.1 (via Bootcamp) with a 2ndry HD in places of the optical (DVD) drive for shared storage.
I have tried all/some of the following:
Win 8.1 ISO from the MS site: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media
USB created using Rufus for Bios and EFI boot
DVD created using Windows 8.1 (can't remember how)
Yosemite USB created using: Create a bootable installer for OS X Mavericks or Yosemite - Apple Support
There are 2 main options when installing Windows:
Bios
EFI
Both have different pros and cons, which Im going to try and document here:
Bios
Full driver support via Bootcamp download
Slower (mainly boot time, not by much though)
Not quite as "native" as some may prefer
Limited number of partitions??
EFI
Fast
Native
Does not support video driver properly (no dual screen)
Audio does not work (says Failed to start device)
Here are some random facts I know
Windows DVD will only boot from optical drive when connected internally. If plugged in via external USB it stops at black screen with flashing cursor and doesnt progress
Using 5HT-2a's method on Redit (see below) and the EFI install, I get the Cx0000005 cannot find source media error and cannot install
Hacking the Bootcamp tool to create a Windows 8 ISO with all the drivers works (see link below) but when using it in EFI it crashes repeatedly during install so you never can complete the process (I think this is due to the video drivers) and therefore can't run Bootcamp assistant thus get proper trackpad support
Using lion10's method (below) for tweaking a standard Mac partitioned HD I was able to get past the cannot install Windows error ("windows cannot be installed to this disk. the selected disk is of the GPT partition style") and install Windows using EFI
Best guides/links I have found:
lion10's method:The ultimate way to install Windows 8.x in (U)EFI mode on Apple systems
5HT-2a's method: http://www.reddit.com/r/mac/comments/2fy3be/by_popular_demand_my_better_than_boo tcamp_guide/
skipsizemore's method: Can't install Windows 8 x64 on late 2013 MBP with1TB SSD
Bootcamp drivers 2 versions depending on Mac:
Older Macs: Boot Camp Support Software 5.1.5621
Newer Macs (most 2013+): Boot Camp Support Software 5.1.5640
Bootcamp Assistant Hack for USB creation on older Macs: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1680652There is an additional parameter required if you are using Yosemite during code signing (-deep I think, but cant remember)

What I ended up doing (so far)
I'm not 100% sure of the state of my disk when I got to where I ended up but I had previous completed the GDisk and DISKPART methods from 5HT-2a and lion10's methods. I was using a 128gb SSD
I then decided to start from the top (as I had previous installed Win 8.1 on the original HD using DVD)
So I ran the Yosemite installer (via USB) and used the partition tab in Disk Utility to repartition the disk into 2 partitions, 1 for OSX and 1 (ExFat/NTFS) for Windows
I then booted in Bios (Windows, not EFI) using the Windows 8.1 DVD using the DVD plugged in internally (wouldnt work using USB enclosure)
Installed Windows to the partition I created (probably the 4th one)
After Windows installed, ran the Bootcamp set up program
Reran Yosemite installer and installed Yosemite
Swapped out the optical drive for a larger HD (7200rpm) and formatted it with HFS+

Plugging 2011 Macbook pro into my HDMI TV

Hello all. I am about to buy a 2011 13" Macbook Pro. My first Mac. I have done some reading on the mini display port and it's computability with HDMI. From what I've read it is also known as DP++ and it passes the signal straight through as HDMI with the use of an adapter. However, the audio is only passed through if the PC supports HDMI signaling, which I believe the 2009 Macbooks didn't. I don't know if that's since changed on the new models. I have read that you have to use an adapter then plug that into a cable with DVI on one end and HDMI on the other and then use a "y" cable for the audio plugged into your amp for sound. I have seen on a Display Port web page, what looked like an adapter with display port one side and HDMI the other, does this exist as it seems better than the DVI to HDMI approach.
So in summary
1) What's the best way to connect my 2011 Macbook Pro to my HDMI TV ?
2) Can I get the audio to the TV through the Display Port without having to use a Y cable from the Macs audio out ?
Thanks

Does the MiniDisplay -> HDMI adapter work with the new MacBook Pro (early 2011) ?
This thread describes some problems: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2180106

Airplay mirroring on early 2011 macbook pro not mirroring

First, here's what I have:
Early 2011 macbook pro (identifier 8,3) with 2.2 Intel Core i7 processor connected over Wifi on 2.4 Ghz channel.
OSX 10.8 Mountain Lion
Apple TV 3 (fully up to date)
The stats I've read say airplay mirroring should work fine. I can connect both machines just fine. I can stream movies just fine. I can send music just fine. I just cannot mirror my desktop. I have the icons, a connection is made, but all that shows is a blank screen. I've adjusted the resolutions with no luck. I've shut down and rebooted both machines with no luck...
Any solutions or do I have to count my losses with Apple Airplay and spend more money on a 3rd party alternative (AirParrot)?

Hi eoinodonnell,
The problem was resolved, but I have the worst answer... it just started working, and has remained reliable since. I never found out exactly what fixed it, but I would try these things:
1) Try a factory reset on the Apple TV, and make sure your Macbook pro has all the latest updates.
2) Try to repair disk permissions (better to do it from disk utility from boot menu) and reboot your macbook.
3) Backup your files and do a fresh install of OSX.
I know I performed all these tasks, and possibly more, but something along the way did fix the problem.
I hope something here works! If so, please let me know what did it.

Water Spilled on 2011 MacBook Pro

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