What 2T external HD should I buy for my macbook pro for photos, videos and music storage?

Hello friends!!
What 2T external HD should I buy for my macbook pro for photo, music and videos storage?
Thank U!!

My personal preference is for the OW, http://www.macsales.com Mercury Elite Pro quad-interface drive...have four of them of the 2 TB size and they are very good performers. The quad-interface allows you a choice of ways to connect, eSata, Firewire 800/400, USB which is very convenient. OWC is a Mac specialist so everything has been tested and guaranteed to be Mac compatible.

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What kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups etc

what kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups and storage

Hi, i have a Mercury Elite-AL Pro from OWC, www.otherworldcomputung.com
this is the one;
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MEAQ7S1TB32M/
have had this for over two years, moved around a lot with the drive, ( to date ) no problems, they have good after sales support; give them a call if you need info.
There are a lot of drives out there as others here will let you know, there are good NAME drives but they also fail, POPULAR drives also fail, select the one you are happy with for your system and how you plan to use.
i suggest if $ is not a problem get a big drive you will find someting to put on it and is better.
hope this helps.

Where can i buy original memory for my macbook pro 13inc mid 2012 and how much is this ?

Where can i buy original memory for my macbook pro 13inc mid 2012 and how much is this ?

"Memory sold by the Apple Online Store is guaranteed to be compatible with your Macintosh."
http://store.apple.com/us/mac/mac-accessories/memory
Other than Apple there are only two vendors with which I have personal experience and can recommend: Crucial and OWC. People have reported problems with many other brands, yet Crucial and OWC's prices are as good as any you are likely to find.
Go to Crucial and download the little app that examines your system and recommends RAM upgrade options.
Their prices are good but don't have to buy memory from them - determine what you need and buy it from Crucial or OWC / MacSales. You'd be paying Apple a lot more than either one of them, and you don't have to.

Should I Buy the 17" Macbook Pro

Hi
Should i buy the 17" Macbook Pro now or should i wait to there have been some reviews of it, or until after August when apple is expected to upgrade to the new 64Bit processors.
Thanks in advance

I have written a thread on the problems with the 17"
Please look at it and be willing to accept that all or none may effect you
After looking at the whole picture I decided to go ahead and buy a 17"
Within a week there will be a better picture of how widespread the problems are, you may wish to wait till this point to see.
I would Not wait for merom
1) I feel the wait is going to be longer than expected
2) benefits of merom:
64 bit: it will be a year or more past introduction for most programs to get to 64bit
800 FSB: probably be the thing people will notice the most
4GB maximum ram: 2gb sticks will be outrageously expensive for quite some time, so not a factor unless you are willing to dish out the dough.
3) given the wattage of merom heat may be a big problem
Overall I think the benefits of merom will be felt in years not months for most consumers. I am picking up the current 17" to serve me for a few years and then sell on ebay and upgrade to 64 bit.
I hope this information helps you.
Kalel

Should I buy the Retina MacBook Pro 13" 2.6 GHz now or wait?

Should I buy the Retina MacBook Pro 13" 2.6 GHz now or wait?
Are there any widespread problems with it?

buy it today, Apple has black Friday sales
Apple Store
Apple's online Black Friday sale continues until tonight with gift cards ranging from $50-$150 depending on model.
- iPad Air: $75 gift card
- iPad mini: $50 gift card on non-Retina models, no gift card on Retina models
- iPad 2: $50 gift card
- iPod touch: $50 gift card
- iPod nano: $25 gift card
- MacBook Air: $150 gift card
- MacBook Pro: $150 gift card for both Retina and non-Retina models
- iMac: $150 gift card
- Apple TV: $25 gift card
- AirPort Extreme and Time Capsule: $50 gift card

What adapter do i need for my macbook pro for a presentation

what adapter do i need for my macbook pro for a presentation

What model/Year MBP do you have and what are you connecting it to?
Ciao.

I want to talk to someone to be able to buy an apple macbook pro from a store and want to know if in stock

I want to talk to someone from a local Apple store to be able to buy an apple macbook pro from a store and want to know if in stock before I make a long journey in. How do I do that? It seems Apple is very unfriendly? please help

Just look up the store you want to go to and give them a call
http://www.apple.com/uk/retail/
Also, looking at the Dispatch & Deliver section - http://store.apple.com/uk/help/shipping_delivery
it looks like UK stores simply do not offer the option of ordering online and picking up at your local store.
Note that in the US web site, the equivalent page has a Personal Pickup section, which simply appears to not be an option in the UK?

Should I buy a new Macbook Pro 13 inch or Macbook Air 13 inch?

Hi,
I was wondering if I should buy the new Macbook pro 13 inch, or keep my old 2010 1.4 C2D Macbook Air. I am not satisfied with the tiny 64GB SSD that my current Macbook Air has, because just a few weeks after I had done a clean reinstall of OSX Lion, the whole disk almost filled up. The one thing I do like about the Macbook Air, however is the speed of the SSD. Its really quick, and it boots in under 20 seconds. The Air didn't have many performance issues (other than overheating like crazy after playing a few graphics-intensive games).
If I were to buy a new Mac, my price range would be from $1200-$1500. I plan to use Garageband/iMovie frequently for making Youtube videos/school projects, and store a large music library. I also plan to do some moderate gaming and run Windows 7 in Bootcamp/Parallels. I don't plan to take it around much, but I don't want to have to weigh down my backpack in case I have to. My two options now would be the new Macbook Pro 13 inch or the new Macbook Air 13 inch. Could anyone give me a suggestion of which computer to buy?
Thanks!

I went through this same thing when I purchased my first Mac 3 days ago, also between the 13 inch MBA and MBP. I ended up deicding with the 13inch MBP, here's why:
1. More hard drive space, yes it may not be an SSD but more space is more space. I have also heard about people taking out the disc drive and adding an SSD in its place, so there would be an option.
2. The disc drive, I rarely do use it but just in case it's there and easier than carrying around an external.
3. Upgradability, I plan on keeping this Mac for a while because I spent so much on it. On a MBP I can upgrade the internal parts such as the hard drive and RAM. On a MBA everything is soldered together so what you buy is what you stick with.
4. Ethernet port, this is one that could be gotten around by an adapter but I still took it into consideration. Not everywhere has wifi yet including my work where every computer is hard wired.
5. Bootcamp, as well I plan to run Windows 7 on mine and Windows 7 takes a good amount of space so this is another spot where the larger hard drive of the MBP comes in handy. You could always have an external hard drive and run Windows 7 off of that on an Air but then you would have to have it always plugged in when you wanted to run Windows 7.
About me, I am a student so I had a lot to think about and read a lot of reviews online before I decided on my MBP but I am glad I decided on this over an Air. It may be a few pounds heavier also but in the long run for me I think the Pro will be better, I do plan on adding more RAM in the future as software becomes more memory intensive. With you're pricerange being 1200-1500 the 13inch MBP with the i7 processor may be one to look at. From Apple with their student discount, if you are one, you get $100 of plus a $100 giftcard. At BestBuy (where I got mine) the price of the i7 13inch MBP is 1,424.99 and if you're a student you get $100 off but no giftcard. I got the i5 13inch MBP because I don't need an i7.
In the end it all comes down to what works for you, but I hope I was able to help you some.

Should i buy the 13" macbook pro?

I am a college student and am looking to upgrade from my mac mini to a more portable and powerful mac. I have £1000 to spend.... for now and i obviously want a macbook of some kind to upgrade to. I will be using it for word documents, itunes ect but also the biggy- Adobe CS6 for my media. So... do i buy the base macbook pro, the 13" macbook air or wait and see if they bring out a retina 13" which would give me time to save a bit for it. I have no use for a larger screen and the CD drive is relitively unneccisary but I do wish for something future proof! that will run things like cs6 smoothly... I am aware the macbook air has the smaller processor but it also has the ssd making it faster hence my uncertainty. Any ideas what to do? I would see no use for buying the retina if the other macbooks could run with ease using such software and would keep that kind of speed for a bit through my education.

I would wait a week and see what features the new one will have.
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/10/15/more-claims-of-13-inch-retina-macbook-pro-co ming-at-next-weeks-media-event/

Where in NYC can I buy a new Macbook Pro 2011 unibody trackpad and the tools i need to replace it myself?

I am going to NYC in a week and I'm wondering if there is a store where I can buy a new trackpad for my Macbook Pro 2011 unibody. I would also like to buy the tools i need to replace it myself. I can't find anything when I search the interwebz.

The problem is that when the machine is closed, it goes to sleep, and in sleep mode, all that goes on is that a bare trickle of power is used to keep the contents of RAM alive. Networking is definitely not active while asleep.
Now, regarding ds store's solution, that's a fairly bad idea. If the machine is just sitting at your desk, you don't need to close it, or if you feel a need to close it you can use Kappy's solution. (Although, it should be noted that apps like InsomniaX and Caffeine do not, as far as I know, keep a machine awake when the lid is shut.) If you're worried about passersby seeing your screen, just activate the screen saver instead. You could even require a password to dismiss the screen saver for added security.
On the other hand, if the machine is being transported, keeping the lid open and the machine running is not a good idea. The sudden motion sensor ought to protect your hard drive against damage caused by moving the machine around... if it's working properly, and I'd rather not depend on an "if" to prevent hardware damage to the machine. Plus, if it's in a bag and you've forced it to stay running, it could overheat due to lack of ventillation.
So, long story short: if you're transporting it, close it and deal with logging back in to the network, and if it's on your desk, don't bother closing it.

I've been using firefox for my macbook pro for the last three years but lately when it starts up, I hear a strange piano chord play. Have others experienced it?

Only recently has Firefox for my macbook pro been acting strange when starting up. I will hear a piano chord play only once when the tabs are loading. Over the past two-three weeks on daily usage, this has happened three times. I'm just concerned my macbook has a virus/bug or if this can be resolved with changing a preference/setting in Firefox. I don't believe this is a problem with my computer itself and I have checked the notification alert sounds and none are the piano chords I'm hearing. I am currently using two add-ons: Tabs-mix plus and FVD Speed Dial if that helps.

Does it happen when you start up in Safe Mode?
'''Try Firefox Safe Mode''' to see if the problem goes away. [[Troubleshoot Firefox issues using Safe Mode|Firefox Safe Mode]] is a troubleshooting mode that temporarily turns off hardware acceleration, resets some settings, and disables add-ons (extensions and themes).
'''If Firefox is open,''' you can restart in Firefox Safe Mode from the Help menu:
* Click the menu button [[Image:New Fx Menu]], click Help [[Image:Help-29]] and select ''Restart with Add-ons Disabled''.
'''If Firefox is not running,''' you can start Firefox in Safe Mode as follows:
* On Windows: Hold the '''Shift''' key when you open the Firefox desktop or Start menu shortcut.
* On Mac: Hold the '''option''' key while starting Firefox.
* On Linux: Quit Firefox, go to your Terminal and run ''firefox -safe-mode'' <br>(you may need to specify the Firefox installation path e.g. /usr/lib/firefox)
When the Firefox Safe Mode window appears, select "Start in Safe Mode".
;[[Image:SafeMode-Fx35]]
'''''If the issue is not present in Firefox Safe Mode''''', your problem is probably caused by an extension, theme, or hardware acceleration. Please follow the steps in the [[Troubleshoot extensions, themes and hardware acceleration issues to solve common Firefox problems]] article to find the cause.
''To exit Firefox Safe Mode, just close Firefox and wait a few seconds before opening Firefox for normal use again.''
When you figure out what's causing your issues, please let us know. It might help others with the same problem.

What upgrades should I get for my MacBook pro for video editing?, What upgrades should I get for my MacBook pro for video editing?

Hi,
i am a student and I will use my MacBook pro to edit my movies, I will go to a film school and I think the preview of my previous works has to be professionally done. But I don't know what upgrades should I get to make the editing smooth, and have enough storage.

as an hobbyist on a shoestring budget, but with the head in the sky, based on my own experience:
8GB Ram is ok, 16GB is nice
most important, aside 'skills': …
<voice of Steve Balmer> ext HDD, ext HDD, ext HDD, ext HDD!!!
I'm handling here 4k material on a MacMini, which doesn't even have a dedicated GPU. In Multicam.
Distribute your materials on several hard drives, make a plan first, before editing, what & where, you get instantly messy and lost without a plan.
What mentioned before: back ups! I'm not shy using a 99€ Raid0 (=two 2.5" drives + Disk Utility's feature, to create 'software raids' ) - Raid0 are NoGo for pros, 'cause it doubles the chance to 'crash' - no prob for me, having my backups - inconvenient to reload everything - but I'm no News Room
For professional 'look' care for the other stuff :
tripod with 'fluid head', lights, more lights, ND filters set, ext. microphone(s) at last a shotgun and a lav, ext audio recorder (I'm abusing my ol' iPhone4 and a tiny box called iRig, which offer XLR connector), did I mention lights? , a good bag and a waterproof, lockable aluminium box, soft boxes for light, maybe a shoulder rig (starting at 80€), 200sq ft of some green cloth for green screening (if your school doesn't offer a 'studio') FCPX does marvel with even really bad lighted green screens, those handy foldable 'brighteners'/reflectors, to bounce light ('Rembrandt lightning') … finally tons of odds and ends, starting with gaffer tape, ending with SDcards ...
And DO things, try things, play with your stuff, make experiments just for the trash bin!
Enjoy your film school (I'm envy… )

Buying a new Macbook Pro for music recording, should I upgrade the RAM or Processor?

As the title states, I'm looking into buying a new Macbook (15 inch) for music recording. Should I upgrade the processor or the RAM memory?

Purchase it with the faster CPU. RAM may be increased later via third party chips at much lower cost if and when required.
Ciao.

Do I need additional anti-virus protection for my Macbook Pro for everyday us than what is already on the laptop when you buy it?

I just purchased my Macbook Pro so it is brand new and I will only use my laptop for everyday use at college. So do I need extra protection for it and if I do what do you recomend.

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav— nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to catch some terrible disease every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have a false sense of safety. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then also feel free to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Should I buy the new MacBook Pro 17 right now or wait for longer?

I've seen a lot of people complaining issues of the new MBP 17. I just don't know it's the right time to buy one or wait for onther months. I am scared that if I ordered one online, and can't return it.....

In my opinion not doing custom if you can afford it is a mistake. The only drawback is yes you cannot return it, but if your that unsure about it, do what i did. i went to an apple store and played with it. The only unsure thing i had was if i would like the operating system over windows.
Also posted questions here. The downside of not least getting a higher processor is that it requires replacing sooner. Rather spend a few extra now and be able to use it an extra year or so. i speak from expierence of not upgrading and seeing my 3000 dollar sony blue ray i bought 3 years ago become an expensive blue ray player because i didnt upgrade my processor from a 2.0 to 2.5 back then. If i did it still be a decent computer but alot of games now require over the 2.0 to even run at low specs.
But i buy for the computer to least last me 3 years, maybe you replace sooner. Again this is only my opinion. and for what its worth ANY computer you buy if you go to the forums of that computer you will see complaints and problems about it. Just Apple is a big name and this is a new release so the news people still have this computer in thier radar.

What 2T external HD should I buy for my macbook pro for photos, videos and music storage?

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