What are the little Black spots on a DVD-R (RW)?

I am starting to notice a number of very small black spots appearing under the clear plastic layer of my burned discs. They are mostly located on my DVD-RW discs, but I am spotting them on some of my DVD-R discs too. I don't seem to see it on any of my burned CD-R or CD-RW discs. I am using only Sony DVD-R and Sony DVD-RW discs and seeing these annoying spots.
It also seems that some of the DVD-RW discs that have a lot of this spotting are having problems transfering files/documents from these discs. Many times the disc files are completely useless.
The DVD discs I am refering to have only been burned for about 4 years now, and the DVD-RW's maybe reburned four -six times each at best (less in most cases). The DVD's have been stored in their jewel cases (vertically) on bookcase shelves, in a normal house setting for their entire life.
I am concerned that burning any type of disc (mostly DVD or DVD-RW's) are no longer considered SAFE for even a short limited time, more less the 100 year period most manufacturers say is their lifetime.
I have important graphic files that are being un-recoverable due to these bad discs.
Is this something the entire DVD/CD burning community should be talking more and more about? I see very little discussion, on google, of what is causing this black spotting on burned DVD's.
Any discussions would be appreciated here.
800 mhz eMac/Superdrive Mac OS X (10.2.x) LaCie External Hard Drive, 1 GB RAM

am sorry to tell you that you have just expierianced the problem caused by the use of BAD MEDIA.
As pointed out in the other post counterfit and poor quality media has been a problem for some.
I suggest 2 things. Be very picky about the media you buy, and where you buy it from. I also opt to buy media in the individual jewel cases because there much better quality.
I use this as a guide.
http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm
I also personally opt to use DVD-R Media if for no other reason it is the most widely recognised and used on both computers and players. And be aware that the speed of the media you purchase can also be a problem. read the packaging and make sure you select media that your burner is capable of using.
Some of the newest media that is 16X will burn at 1X 2X 4X 8X and 16X. But, be sure to read and make sure, Not all of them do.
Don
One last tip, You really only need to post this one time in the area that covers your computer.

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This question was solved.
View Solution.

I spotted your request when it was 1st posted, but I haven't experienced the 'phenomenon' myself so I've been waiting for someone who had, to post a fix — possibly saving you from some troubleshooting steps...
If you've already found a solution, updating your original post might help steer others to that solution in the future. On the other hand, we can proceed to trying a few things to narrow-down what's causing that "stupid black" blight on your tablet's screen:
Right-off, regardless of the cause — just shutting-down then restarting your tablet may correct the issue; if the bar persists after that, you might check via Task Manager to identify a likely suspect under Startup items. Your description suggests a battery gadget or an app which uses the built-in microphone displaying the mic's sensitivity setting — possibly Skype or other 'social media' software.
Please update this thread with your current status re. this issue...

What are the little red squares on the lower left hand corner of a movieclip in the actions panel?

What do the little red squares on the lower left hand corner of the movieclips in the actions panel mean? [Fig. 1]
I'm working off this template in Flash CS3, that's using ActionScript 2.0 actually.
I don't know whether or not that means anything in regards to the above inquire?
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Fig.1

OK, I think I might have figured this out.
First. You guys keep insisting it's the Movie Explorer. It is not. It is the Actions Panel. You can see for yourself. Option+F9 opens the Actions Panel. Option+F3 opens the 'Explorer Window'. They are similar in appearance but they're not the same thing. They're just not.
Second. I believe that the red dots on the movieclips, and also buttons, indicates when there is actionscript directly on the movieclip and/or button, as oppose to actionscript written on a frame within a movie clip and/or button.
You really have to pay special attention to the top of the Actions Panel right next to where it says 'Actions' there's a dash '–' and then it says either 'Frame', 'Movie Clip', or 'Button'. This indicates exactly where you're about to write script to, or where you're reading the script from, so it's important to pay attention to this.
That left side pane, in the Actions Panel, is divided by 'Scene' and by 'Symbol Definition(s)' and it's confusing because it's possible to have a symbol appear more than once depening on where the actionscript is located (i.e. on a frame or on the movie clip or button itself).
For example if you have script on a FRAME within movie clip A, it'll appear in the SYMBOL DEFINITION(S) pane, without a red box, but if you were to write script on movie clip A itself, it would still not have the red box on it in the SYMBOL DEFINITION(S) pane, BUT it would appear again as movie clip A in the SCENE pane, and this time it would appear with the red box next to it, casue it now has actionscript directly on the movie clip itself. Wow, how confusing is that ha.
Keep in mind that if you made a movie clip B, within movie clip A, and if you placed actionscripts directly on movie clip B, NOT on a frame, then movie clip B would get a red box and appear UNDER movie clip A, within the SYMBOL DEFINITION(S) pane, NOT the SCENE pane. Ha.
If you wrote script on a FRAME within movie clip B it would appear in the SYMBOL DEFINITION(S) again, yes a second time, twice, but WITHOUT a red box. Confused yet? ha.
I don't know why Flash decided to do it this way. But it starts to make sense when you're actually viewing it, when it's in front of you. I think this is just for actionscript 2.0 (and for actionscript 1.0 presumably), but I don't think this is the case for ActionScript 3.0, because in as3 it's all instance name based, and targeting based, so there's no such thing as writing script directly onto a symbol of any kind, button, movie clip or otherwise.
But yeah, that's it in a nutshell.
Thanks for trying to help anyway.

What are the best settings to make a DVD?

Hi!!!
I want to make a DVD. I am using Adobe Premiere Pro CS4. My video uses a image (i havent chosen the width x height yet because i do not know what is the best for picture quality on DVD, any advice?). I also use text which is made by clicking on Add Titles in Premiere Pro. Also i have a mp3 which plays throughout. (There is actually no moving video, just an image still, and the text I add which changes every few seconds)
My question is: For optimal picture and sound quality on DVD, what are the best settings to begin the project with? (i.e. PAL? HD?, etc). Second question is: For optimal picture and sound quality on DVD, what settings should i have when exporting? (i.e. Format: MPEG2? MPEG2-DVD? H.264? ect, Preset: 1440 x 1080i? PAL DV High Quality? etc)
Note: after exporting the file, i will send the master to a DVD duplicating company who will put the file onto DVD for me.
Many, many thanks!

To give you just a bit more background, for DVD-Video (well, if it's burned, it's officially DVD-ROM, but you get the picture), the Transcoding will be done to MPEG-2. For the best Audio, I would stick with PCM/WAV, which will be slightly larger, but with better fidelity. Note that with BD, you have some other choices, but fewer for DVD-Video. Also, even though MPEG Audio was optional in PAL-land, it is falling out of favor. The two choices are DD AC3 (a flavor of MPEG), and PCM/WAV, which will give you the best Audio.
With Adobe Dynamic Link, you do not need to be too concerned with the Transcoding yet. In Encore, you can choose the parameters for the Transcoding, or leave it set to Automatic and Encore will calculate the space on the disc, and come up with a very good Transcode setting. If you decide that you want to do those settings yourself, please spend some time on the Internet reading about "bit-budgeting." There are also 3rd party Transcoders, that some feel are superior to those used in the Adobe products. There are several recommendations in this forum. Again, you will want to study bit-budgeting first.
Good luck,
Hunt

What are the little filling circles when you click on a mailbox

in regards to .mac via mail application, what is the the circle that fills up like a pie being cut backwards when you click a mailbox??

You're welcome.
Everynow and then, I goto close out Mail, and the screen goes away,
but the dock icon and menubar still stay active...for a bit or so, then
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The answer is yes.
Depending on your settings for automatically deleting messages from an account's Junk or Trash mailbox, activity will occur.
Launch the Activity Viewer - at the menu bar go to Window and select Activity Viewer.
When quitting Mail, any activity should be shown in the Activity Viewer.

What are the best asset formats to optimise DVD quality?

Hi Guys
Some of my clients have been complaining about the DVD quality they received from me, and I wondered to myself how can I improve in future.
I just want to confirm if these are the best formats for each asset:
1) Video - AVI format (as opposed to MPEG2)? The major irritation I find about AVI is that it eats up lots of disc space, and it takes a lot of time as far as transcoding in encore is concerned.
2) Photos - TIFF format (as opposed to JPEG)? Same story as above regarding disc space.
3) Audio - AIFF format (as opposed to MP3)? Same space problem as the first 2. Furthermore, my major annoyance with WAV files is that you have to know which version of WAV files are the best quality.
Now, I do not what TVs most of my past and future clients own, i.e. a normal 4:3 TV like mine or the 16:9 plasma ones (although the trend these days seem to be LCD TVs). What is the best aspect ratio to use that will work on most TVs?
Also, I use a Sony 30g HDD video camera to record events. I like it since these is no hassle about carrying tapes or DVDs around. But, the problem with the camera is that MPEG2 is the "highest quality" it can record events; my still camera can take jpeg's as the highest quality. And the photos on the DVD look - most of the time - OK in terms of quality. It's only in my last DVD that I built that I saw some of the photos having some sort of problem in the slideshow (something like a water effect on the blazers and shirts of some of the audience - definitely unwanted).
To edit my assets, I use:
1) Power director 6 (for my video). I know you are going to say I should use Premiere Pro. I'm still reading the manual for PPro2 and Ppro doesn't have SVRT like PD6 does.
2) Photoshop elements or Fireworks (for my photos). Photoshop CS2 looks very complex for me at the moment - will learn later.
3) Adobe Audition (for my audio).
All I want is to have the highest quality possible. What's the best advice?
Thanks for all your help guys.

Since you raised the question of Hi8 versus DV tape formats, here are a few thoughts intended partly for you and partly for those who (unlike you) may be planning to get their first camcorder and are wondering about the different formats available.
Hi8 is a second-generation analog format that was marketed starting about 1988 to permit better resolution than the original VHS and Video8 camcorder formats. It was superseded about 1995 by the digital video, or DV, format.
Hi8 produced video of decent quality and was a good capture medium for material that was going to be distributed on VHS or SVHS tape. But the quality of DV is better, and DV has enormous advantages for editing and distribution. In particular, DV has absolutely no "generation loss" when transferring from tape to computer, from tape to tape, or from computer to tape, and it permits sophisticated editing using any one of many "nonlinear editing" applications that are available on PC's or Macs. Once you have edited your video using one of these applications, you may proceed to "author" your DVD's (i.e. add menus, etc.) and they will be of surprisingly high quality.
In mentioning Hi8 you may actually have been thinking of the Digital8 format. This is a format developed by Sony as a bridge between the older Video8/Hi8 world and the DV world. It is logically identical to DV but it uses the same physical tape as Hi8. This tape is now customarily labelled "Hi8/Digital8" to emphasize this fact. Hi8/Digital8 tape is less expensive and reportedly more robust than DV tape.
In principle Digital8 is just as good a format as DV. However, Digital8 has been targeted at a lower end of the market than DV, so even the best Digital8 camcorders may not have as good optics, as good sensors, or as many features as the better DV camcorders.
A few years ago, many people would recommend Digital8 as a very practical format for someone just getting started in video, since it was available at lower price points than DV, was identical in quality as regards format and perhaps better in value as regards camcorders, i.e. Digital8 camcorders were less expensive than DV camcorders of the same quality. Above all, Digital8 was ideal for someone who had previously used Video8 or Hi8, since the early Digital 8 camcorders would play back analog tapes and so could bridge the transition to digital. In fact, by buying or borrowing a second Digital8 camcorder, you could play back your analog tapes from one camcorder and record them as digital tapes using the other camcorder, forever after enjoying the advantages of the digital format.
At the present time, however, DV would be a much better choice than Digital8. Most (or all?) recent Digital8 camcorders have abandoned the ability to play back analog tapes. Only one or two manufacturers are making Digital8, and their offerings have dropped to a handful in recent years. This hardware will quite likely cease to be available in the near future, though the tapes will probably be marketed for years. When your present equipment wears out you would not want to be left with a library of family videos in an unsupported physical format.
In the last few years the DV format itself has been superseded by various high-definition formats, especially by HDV, a format that records to the same physical tapes as DV, at the same bitrates as DV, but, thanks to much greater compression, with twice the horizontal and more than twice the vertical resolution of DV.
Another format using even greater and more sophisticated compression, AVCHD, promises similar quality as HDV with even greater horizontal resolution, although the implementations of AVCHD available now are probably not as high in quality as the best HDV, and are certainly much harder to edit.
Despite the emergence of high-definition formats, there are good reasons for some people to prefer standard-definition DV at this time. One reason is cost. A good HDV camcorder -- the Canon HV20 is probably the best consumer model right now -- is likely to cost $1,000 or a bit more, while good DV models cost a few hundred. A second reason is low-light capability. The imaging chips for high-definition have many more pixels than the chips for DV. If the lenses are the same size, then these pixels must be crowded into a sensor about the same size as that of a DV camera, meaning that each pixel must be smaller and therefore less responsive to low-light conditions. So a good DV camera may be much better in low light than even the best high-definition camcorder of the same size.
Camcorders are now available that record direct to DVD (NOT advisable as John Smith said: the DVD medium is not robust for long-term storage and the necessary MPEG2 compression robs your source video of the quality it would have on tape and is much harder to edit).
Camcorders are also available that record directly to hard disk. Depending on the implementation, and your handiness with computers, thes might be just right FOR SOME USES. In particular they permit much more rapid turnaround between shooting and editing, so they might be right for something that is needed quickly but where archiving is not important (for example, shots of a football team at practice). But (as you have undoubtedly discovered with your 30gig Sony) you must download the material from camera to hard drive when the camera fills up, and this is not as easy as putting in a new tape. Also, the file may not be stored on disk in the relatively uncompressed, and easily edited, DV format. Finally, no hard drive is as safe a storage medium as a tape. With a hard drive and especially with a DVD, you risk losing everything to a crash or scratch; with a tape, you risk at most losing a few frames to a dropout caused by imperfections in the media.
Only you can balance all these factors knowing the type of things you will be shooting, how you will view or share your videos, and what you plan to do with them in the future. Note that DV can be edited together with HDV by many editing programs, though either the quality or the size on screen or both will be noticeably different. Also note that the high-definition formats are all in the widescreen 16:9 aspect ratio, like the newer TV's, while DV was originally 4:3 and may be available in 16:9 but with the additional width achieved by stretching the same number of pixels and possibly by using a smaller fraction of the imaging chip.
I would recommend that you search for articles and forums about camcorders to learn what is available. There is a lot of information out there. As for me, I would certainly not recommend Hi8, or even Digital8, at this time. Choose DV if you have a pressing reason for it, such as cost or the need to get good images in low light; otherwise make yourself more future proof with HDV or AVCHD. They will produce high-quality DVD's when "downconverted" when capturing them into the computer or when exporting them from the nonlinear editor or authoring program (experiment to find which method is best). Unless you are using AVCHD, which is not a tape-based format, stick with tape (for now) if you are concerned with long-term storage.
Best wishes!

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What are the little plastic pieces that come with iPod Touch used for?

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What are the differences between White iPhone 4/4S to iPhone 4/4S Black?

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Google is your friend for searching for such information.
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IPhone 3G - thinking of getting one but... what are the potential issues?

I'm thinking of getting an iPhone 3G because:
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2. I like the iPhone browser and the ability to use apps and a lot of other aspects of the iPhone.
3. I live in Japan, and switching from my AU cell phone to the iPhone is actually a bargain here. There is no money down, and the payment plans start at like $25/month to a max of about $68/month. So it's actually cheaper here than in the U.S. Even adding in the $10-$15 extra charge for 24 months until the phone itself is paid off, it's no more expensive than my current cell phone. And I can keep my current phone number.
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The only thing holding me back is this - every time (and I mean every single time with no exaggeration) that I have ever purchased an Apple portable device, including every single one of my many MacBooks and MacBook Pros over the years and the iPod nano 3G I bought last year, have had problems that needed immediate care and replacement or servicing and, in the case of the iPod 3G that awful "tilted LCD" problem that after 3 exchanges I had to have the consumer affairs office in Tokyo arrange with Apple for me to get a refund on.
I love the systems, I am using my MacBook Pro right now as I write this message (already been repaired twice and the trackpad is acting funny again - glad I have AppleCare), but I dread the mental stress of dealing with getting my new out-of-the-box Apple products fixed. I feel they have quality checking problems with certain of the product lines.
I just know that there is going to be something really annoyingly wrong with the iPhone 3G as soon as I turn it on - like obviously dead pixels, or a tilted LCD like with the iPod nano 3G, or some weird color discolorations, or something loose and jiggly like with my MBP battery cover or ... I don't know... something. It's just happened too often with me to not be wary.
So my question is this. If the Softbank store lets me turn on and check out the iPhone before buying it, what are the things I should look out for?
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Any suggestions would be welcome.
I would like to get an iPhone. I just want one with no problems out-of-the-box.
Thanks for any suggestions,
doug
Message was edited by: Doug Lerner2

{quote:title=Doug Lerner2 wrote:}
But if it is something more subtle like "the colors seem wrong" or "the screen is not set straight" it will take more arguing. And I can't stand arguing about stuff like that just to get a good phone.
So... What were the problems you had with your phone?
Well the only reason I got the IPhones was because it was a birthday gift,And the first phone I got was the 16G in white so when we got home My screen was jumping so I said okay maybe if I power my phone off and than cut it back on maybe it will started to work a little better,While it didn't I just made thing worse My screen was only jumping it wouldn't come back on after that,So I was so mad cause we had to drive a 138 miles to get my phone and than my cousin came over and she have the same phone I had just got.But her phone look like she had it for some years the white on the back of the phone had turned a off white.
So we had to drive other 138 miles there and back for me to get other phone and when I made it to the Apple store I didn't know you suppose to call and make appt before you come up there about your phone.So I'm standing up there telling them that I just came yesterday and drove a 138 miles here and back and I just had to turn around and do it again today.So they went on and seen me and ask me what was going on with my phone.So I told them as they can see it was not coming on no more.
So they exchange my IPhone and I didn't get the same color due to how my cousin white IPhone was looking like,So I got a black IPhone instead.
So the new phone I got was working so good and than about two weeks later my phone would blink on and off and it would freeze on you during call's are anything.So you already know what I had to do again I had to drive other 138 miles there and back and I was not happy about that at all.So this time before I went I made appt that morning to come and they told me to come around 200pm but for me to try to be there at least ten minutes early.So I made it there around 145pm they didn't get to me still around 315pm.So when they final call me to go talk to someone about what's going on with my phone.They ask me for my receipt and I let them know I didn't have it cause they didn't give it to me cause yale told me I didn't need it cause yale was going to send it to my email address.
So they went to try to look up my email address,That took them other 30 minutes to find it,But they finial found it in there system.So they went on and exchange my phone again with no problem at all.
So this phone I got was doing so good, I really thought my trouble was all over still I saw a black line running down my screen of my phone.So I had to get on the phone with apple again so I can make other appt for the 3rd time,So I can go up there and bring this phone so they can look at it,Cause I thought maybe I was seening something are it suppose to be on my phone and I didn't know,But to come to find out it didn't suppose to be on my phone so they had to replaces my phone for the 3rd time.
So I bent haveing this phone That I got now about 3 months now and I got to tell you I went through **** and back to get this phone and it's really doing good really love the phone so much I'm so glade that I didn't give up on this phone because I was haveing so much bad luck with getting a IPhone I was about to give up but I am so glade that I kept trying.It really is a great phone to have it have so much on this phone I love it.I just hope I don't have no more problem down the line cause I don't want to go through this again.
I feel were you are coming from cause I wouldn't want nobody to go through what I went through try to getting my phone.
But I'M telling you,it might be worth you going through this at the end..The TV on this phone is so unbelievable I'M telling you,you going to love it.Before I go to sleep at night I listen to my i pod on my IPhone and I love it that's how I go to sleep at night are I might watch a movie that I have on my phone at night.It's a great phone to have all the way around I give it a ten.
And other thing you said you don't like to arguing sometime you just have to do that.you and me have so much in common cause I don't like that my self,I feel like why should I have to raise my voices to get my point a cross that's just crazy to me.
So how long do yale have to exchange something were you stay.

What are the little Black spots on a DVD-R (RW)?

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