What do u do if you have forgeten passcode and cant get into iphone, what do u do if you have forgeten passcode and cant get into iphone
can someone please help me it will be very much apperciated
Locked Out, Forgot Lock or Restrictions Passcode, or Need to Restore Your Device: Several Alternative Solutions
A
1. iOS- Forgotten passcode or device disabled after entering wrong passcode
2. iPhone, iPad, iPod touch: Wrong passcode results in red disabled screen
3. Restoring iPod touch after forgotten passcode
4. What to Do If You've Forgotten Your iPhone's Passcode
5. iOS- Understanding passcodes
6. iTunes 10 for Mac- Update and restore software on iPod, iPhone, or iPad
7. iOS - Unable to update or restore
Forgotten Restrictions Passcode Help
iPad,iPod,iPod Touch Recovery Mode
You will need to restore your device as New to remove a Restrictions passcode. Go through the normal process to restore your device, but when you see the options to restore as New or from a backup, be sure to choose New.
You can restore from a backup if you have one from BEFORE you set the restrictions passcode.
Also, see iTunes- Restoring iOS software.
Similar Messages
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My MAC runs very slow. Rainbow wheel every time i try to go somewhere. Im a complete MAC novice. Only really use it for iTunes and email. the odd document here and there. The odd spreadsheet. Was brought up on a PC. I would imagine my system is in mess. I think i downloaded that Mackeeper which i have just discovered was not a good idea. I found a thread about EtreCheck and it suggested i posted the report of my machine which i have done.I only have 2GB of space. Not sure how much i have left. My wife keeps putting photos on here like they are going out of fashion. Bought the machine in 2008 because everybody said you have a MAC. I've never really got to grips with it but at least it worked. Now it does not run very well at all. That spinning wheel is driving me mad. HELP please, never ever used a forum light this either so please go gentle on me. Cheers Paul
EtreCheck version: 1.9.15 (52)
Report generated 8 September 2014 09:09:26 BST
Hardware Information: ?
iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) (Verified)
iMac - model: iMac8,1
1 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU: 2 cores
2 GB RAM
Video Information: ?
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro - VRAM: 256 MB
iMac 1680 x 1050
System Software: ?
OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 0 days 0:31:45
Disk Information: ?
Hitachi HDP725032GLA380 disk0 : (320.07 GB)
S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 319.21 GB (117.84 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
USB Information: ?
Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Bose Corporation Bose USB Audio
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Gatekeeper: ?
Mac App Store and identified developers
Launch Daemons: ?
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[loaded] com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2.Agent.plist Support
[running] com.trusteer.rooks.rooksd.plist Support
[loaded] net.sourceforge.MonolingualHelper.plist Support
Launch Agents: ?
[running] com.trusteer.rapport.rapportd.plist Support
User Login Items: ?
iTunesHelper
Internet Plug-ins: ?
Google Earth Web Plug-in: Version: 5.1 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 3.2.0.16 - SDK 10.8 Support
OfficeLiveBrowserPlugin: Version: 12.3.6 Support
Silverlight: Version: 5.1.10411.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 14.0.0.145 - SDK 10.6 Support
AmazonMP3DownloaderPlugin101749: Version: AmazonMP3DownloaderPlugin 1.0.17 - SDK 10.4 Support
Flash Player: Version: 14.0.0.145 - SDK 10.6 Outdated! Update
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
eMusicRemote: Version: (null) Support
eMusic: Version: Unknown
Audio Plug-ins: ?
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins: ?
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
3rd Party Preference Panes: ?
Flash Player Support
Flip4Mac WMV Support
Trusteer Endpoint Protection Support
Time Machine: ?
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU: ?
2% iTunes
2% WindowServer
0% coreaudiod
0% fontd
0% rapportd
Top Processes by Memory: ?
178 MB Finder
133 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
109 MB iTunes
92 MB Safari
63 MB com.apple.quicklook.satellite
Virtual Memory Information: ?
24 MB Free RAM
821 MB Active RAM
807 MB Inactive RAM
291 MB Wired RAM
338 MB Page-ins
680 KB Page-outs1. This procedure is a diagnostic test. It changes nothing, for better or worse, and therefore will not, in itself, solve the problem. But with the aid of the test results, the solution may take a few minutes, instead of hours or days.
Don't be put off merely by the seeming complexity of these instructions. The process is much less complicated than the description. You do harder tasks with the computer all the time.
2. If you don't already have a current backup, back up all data before doing anything else. The backup is necessary on general principle, not because of anything in the test procedure. Backup is always a must, and when you're having any kind of trouble with the computer, you may be at higher than usual risk of losing data, whether you follow these instructions or not.
There are ways to back up a computer that isn't fully functional. Ask if you need guidance.
3. Below are instructions to run a UNIX shell script, a type of program. As I wrote above, it changes nothing. It doesn't send or receive any data on the network. All it does is to generate a human-readable report on the state of the computer. That report goes nowhere unless you choose to share it. If you prefer, you can read it yourself without disclosing the contents to me or anyone else.
You should be wondering whether you can believe me, and whether it's safe to run a program at the behest of a stranger. In general, no, it's not safe and I don't encourage it.
In this case, however, there are a couple of ways for you to decide whether the program is safe without having to trust me. First, you can read it. Unlike an application that you download and click to run, it's transparent, so anyone with the necessary skill can verify what it does.
You may not be able to understand the script yourself. But variations of the script have been posted on this website thousands of times over a period of years. The site is hosted by Apple, which does not allow it to be used to distribute harmful software. Any one of the millions of registered users could have read the script and raised the alarm if it was harmful. Then I would not be here now and you would not be reading this message.
Nevertheless, if you can't satisfy yourself that these instructions are safe, don't follow them. Ask for other options.
4. Here's a summary of what you need to do, if you choose to proceed:
☞ Copy a line of text in this window to the Clipboard.
☞ Paste into the window of another application.
☞ Wait for the test to run. It usually takes a few minutes.
☞ Paste the results, which will have been copied automatically, back into a reply on this page.
The sequence is: copy, paste, wait, paste again. You don't need to copy a second time. Details follow.
5. You may have started the computer in "safe" mode. Preferably, these steps should be taken in “normal” mode, under the conditions in which the problem is reproduced. If the system is now in safe mode and works well enough in normal mode to run the test, restart as usual. If you can only test in safe mode, do that.
6. If you have more than one user, and the one affected by the problem is not an administrator, then please run the test twice: once while logged in as the affected user, and once as an administrator. The results may be different. The user that is created automatically on a new computer when you start it for the first time is an administrator. If you can't log in as an administrator, test as the affected user. Most personal Macs have only one user, and in that case this section doesn’t apply. Don't log in as root.
7. The script is a single long line, all of which must be selected. You can accomplish this easily by triple-clicking anywhere in the line. The whole line will highlight, though you may not see all of it in the browser window, and you can then copy it. If you try to select the line by dragging across the part you can see, you won't get all of it.
Triple-click anywhere in the line of text below on this page to select it:
PATH=/usr/bin:/bin:/usr/sbin:/sbin:/usr/libexec;clear;cd;p=(Software Hardware Memory Diagnostics Power FireWire Thunderbolt USB Fonts SerialATA 4 1000 25 5120 KiB/s 1024 85 \\b%% 20480 1 MB/s 25000 ports ' com.clark.\* \*dropbox \*GoogleDr\* \*k.AutoCAD\* \*k.Maya\* vidinst\* ' DYLD_INSERT_LIBRARIES\ DYLD_LIBRARY_PATH -86 "` route -n get default|awk '/e:/{print $2}' `" 25 N\\/A down up 102400 25600 recvfrom sendto CFBundleIdentifier 25 25 25 1000 MB com.apple.AirPortBaseStationAgent 464843899 51 5120 files );N5=${#p[@]};p[N5]=` networksetup -listnetworkserviceorder|awk ' NR>1 { sub(/^\([0-9]+\) /,"");n=$0;getline;} $NF=="'${p[26]}')" { sub(/.$/,"",$NF);print n;exit;} ' `;f=('\n%s: %s\n' '\n%s\n\n%s\n' '\nRAM details\n%s\n' %s\ %s '%s\n-\t%s\n' );S0() { echo ' { q=$NF+0;$NF="";u=$(NF-1);$(NF-1)="";gsub(/^ +| +$/,"");if(q>='${p[$1]}') printf("%s (UID %s) is using %s '${p[$2]}'",$0,u,q);} ';};s=(' /^ *$|CSConfigDot/d;s/^ */ /;s/[-0-9A-Fa-f]{22,}/UUID/g;s/(ochat)\.[^.]+(\..+)/\1\2/;/Shared/!s/\/Users\/[^/]+/~/g ' ' s/^ +//;/de: S|[nst]:/p;' ' {sub(/^ +/,"")};/er:/;/y:/&&$2<'${p[10]} ' 1s/://;3,6d;/[my].+:/d;s/^ {4}//;H;${ g;s/\n$//;/s: [^EO]|x([^08]|02[^F]|8[^0])/p;} ' ' 5h;6{ H;g;/P/!p;} ' ' ($1~/^Cy/&&$3>'${p[11]}')||($1~/^Cond/&&$2!~/^N/) ' ' /:$/{ N;/:.+:/d;s/ *://;b0'$'\n'' };/^ *(V.+ [0N]|Man).+ /{ s/ 0x.... //;s/[()]//g;s/(.+: )(.+)/ (\2)/;H;};$b0'$'\n'' d;:0'$'\n'' x;s/\n\n//;/Apple[ ,]|Genesy|Intel|SMSC/d;s/\n.*//;/\)$/p;' ' s/^.*C/C/;H;${ g;/No th|pms/!p;} ' '/= [^GO]/p' '{$1=""};1' ' /Of/!{ s/^.+is |\.//g;p;} ' ' $0&&!/ / { n++;print;} END { if(n<200) print "com.apple.";} ' ' $3~/[0-9]:[0-9]{2}$/ { gsub(/:[0-9:a-f]{14}/,"");} { print|"tail -n'${p[12]}'";} ' ' NR==2&&$4<='${p[13]}' { print $4;} ' ' END { $2/=256;if($2>='${p[15]}') print int($2) } ' ' NR!=13{next};{sub(/[+-]$/,"",$NF)};'"`S0 21 22`" 'NR!=2{next}'"`S0 37 17`" ' NR!=5||$8!~/[RW]/{next};{ $(NF-1)=$1;$NF=int($NF/10000000);for(i=1;i<=3;i++){$i="";$(NF-1-i)="";};};'"`S0 19 20`" 's:^:/:p' '/\.kext\/(Contents\/)?Info\.plist$/p' 's/^.{52}(.+) <.+/\1/p' ' /Launch[AD].+\.plist$/ { n++;print;} END { print "'${p[41]}'";if(n<200) print "/System/";} ' '/\.xpc\/(Contents\/)?Info\.plist$/p' ' NR>1&&!/0x|\.[0-9]+$|com\.apple\.launchctl\.(Aqua|Background|System)$|'${p[41]}'/ { print $3;} ' ' /\.(framew|lproj)|\):/d;/plist:|:.+(Mach|scrip)/s/:[^:]+//p ' '/^root$/p' ' !/\/Contents\/.+\/Contents|Applic|Autom|Frameworks/&&/Lib.+\/Info.plist$/ { n++;print;} END { if(n<1100) print "/System/";} ' '/^\/usr\/lib\/.+dylib$/p' ' /Temp|emac/{next};/(etc|Preferences|Launch[AD].+)\// { sub(".(/private)?","");n++;print;} END { print "'${p[41]}'.plist\t'${p[42]}'";if(n<500) print "Launch";} ' ' /\/(Contents\/.+\/Contents|Frameworks)\/|\.wdgt\/.+\.([bw]|plu)/d;p;' 's/\/(Contents\/)?Info.plist$//;p' ' { gsub("^| |\n","\\|\\|kMDItem'${p[35]}'=");sub("^...."," ") };1 ' p '{print $3"\t"$1}' 's/\'$'\t''.+//p' 's/1/On/p' '/Prox.+: [^0]/p' '$2>'${p[43]}'{$2=$2-1;print}' ' BEGIN { i="'${p[26]}'";M1='${p[16]}';M2='${p[18]}';M3='${p[31]}';M4='${p[32]}';} !/^A/{next};/%/ { getline;if($5<M1) a="user "$2"%, system "$4"%";} /disk0/&&$4>M2 { b=$3" ops/s, "$4" blocks/s";} $2==i { if(c) { d=$3+$4+$5+$6;next;};if($4>M3||$6>M4) c=int($4/1024)" in, "int($6/1024)" out";} END { if(a) print "CPU: "a;if(b) print "I/O: "b;if(c) print "Net: "c" (KiB/s)";if(d) print "Net errors: "d" packets/s";} ' ' /r\[0\] /&&$NF!~/^1(0|72\.(1[6-9]|2[0-9]|3[0-1])|92\.168)\./ { print $NF;exit;} ' ' !/^T/ { printf "(static)";exit;} ' '/apsd|BKAg|OpenD/!s/:.+//p' ' (/k:/&&$3!~/(255\.){3}0/ )||(/v6:/&&$2!~/A/ ) ' ' $1~"lR"&&$2<='${p[25]}';$1~"li"&&$3!~"wpa2";' ' BEGIN { FS=":";p="uniq -c|sed -E '"'s/ +\\([0-9]+\\)\\(.+\\)/\\\2 x\\\1/;s/x1$//'"'";} { n=split($3,a,".");sub(/_2[01].+/,"",$3);print $2" "$3" "a[n]$1|p;b=b$1;} END { close(p) if(b) print("\n\t* Code injection");} ' ' NR!=4{next} {$NF/=10240} '"`S0 27 14`" ' END { if($3~/[0-9]/)print$3;} ' ' BEGIN { L='${p[36]}';} !/^[[:space:]]*(#.*)?$/ { l++;if(l<=L) f=f"\n "$0;} END { F=FILENAME;if(!F) exit;if(!f) f="\n [N/A]";"file -b "F|getline T;if(T!~/^(AS.+ (En.+ )?text$|(Bo|PO).+ sh.+ text ex)/) F=F" ("T")";printf("\nContents of %s\n%s\n",F,f);if(l>L) printf("\n ...and %s more line(s)\n",l-L);} ' ' /^ +[NP].+ =/h;/^( +D.+[{]|[}])/{ g;s/.+= //p;};' 's/0/Off/p' ' END{print NR} ' ' /id: N|te: Y/{i++} END{print i} ' ' / / { print "'"${p[28]}"'";exit;};1;' '/ en/!s/\.//p' ' NR!=13{next};{sub(/[+-M]$/,"",$NF)};'"`S0 39 40`" ' $10~/\(L/&&$9!~"localhost" { sub(/.+:/,"",$9);print $1": "$9;} ' '/^ +r/s/.+"(.+)".+/\1/p' 's/(.+\.wdgt)\/(Contents\/)?Info\.plist$/\1/p' 's/^.+\/(.+)\.wdgt$/\1/p' ' /l: /{ /DVD/d;s/.+: //;b0'$'\n'' };/s: /{ /V/d;s/^ */- /;H;};$b0'$'\n'' d;:0'$'\n'' x;/APPLE [^:]+$/d;p;' ' /^find: /d;p;' "`S0 44 45`" );c1=(system_profiler pmset\ -g nvram fdesetup find syslog df vm_stat sar ps sudo\ crontab sudo\ iotop top pkgutil 'PlistBuddy 2>&1 -c "Print' whoami cksum kextstat launchctl sudo\ launchctl crontab 'sudo defaults read' stat lsbom mdfind ' for i in ${p[24]};do ${c1[18]} ${c2[27]} $i;done;' defaults\ read scutil sudo\ dtrace sudo\ profiles sed\ -En awk /S*/*/P*/*/*/C*/*/airport networksetup mdutil sudo\ lsof test );c2=(com.apple.loginwindow\ LoginHook '" /L*/P*/loginw*' '" L*/P*/*loginit*' 'L*/Ca*/com.ap*.Saf*/E*/* -d 1 -name In*t -exec '"${c1[14]}"' :CFBundleDisplayName" {} \;|sort|uniq' '~ $TMPDIR.. \( -flags +sappnd,schg,uappnd,uchg -o ! -user $UID -o ! -perm -600 \)' '.??* -path .Trash -prune -o -type d -name *.app -print -prune' :${p[35]}\" :Label\" '{/,}L*/{Con,Pref}* -type f ! -size 0 -name *.plist -exec plutil -s {} \;' "-f'%N: %l' Desktop L*/Keyc*" therm sysload boot-args status " -F '\$Time \$Message' -k Sender kernel -k Message Req 'bad |Beac|caug|dead[^bl]|FAIL|fail|GPU |hfs: Ru|inval|jnl:|last value [1-9]|n Cause: -|NVDA\(|pagin|proc: t|Roamed|rror|ssert|Thrott|tim(ed? ?|ing )o|WARN' -k Message Rne 'Goog|ksadm|SMC:| VALI|xpma' -o -k Sender fseventsd -k Message Req 'SL' " '-du -n DEV -n EDEV 1 10' 'acrx -o comm,ruid,%cpu' '-t1 10 1' '-f -pfc /var/db/r*/com.apple.*.{BS,Bas,Es,J,OSXU,Rem,up}*.bom' '{/,}L*/Lo*/Diag* -type f -regex .\*[cgh] ! -name *ag \( -exec grep -lq "^Thread c" {} \; -exec printf \* \; -o -true \) -execdir stat -f:%Sc:%N -t%F {} \;|sort -t: -k2 |tail -n'${p[38]} '-L {/{S*/,},}L*/Lau* -type f' '-L /{S*/,}L*/StartupItems -type f -exec file {} +' '-L /S*/L*/{C*/Sec*A,E}* {/,}L*/{A*d,Ca*/*/Ex,Co{mpon,reM},Ex,Inter,iTu*/*P,Keyb,Mail/B,Pr*P,Qu*T,Scripti,Sec,Servi,Spo,Widg}* -path \\*s/Resources -prune -o -type f -name Info.plist' '/usr/lib -type f -name *.dylib' `awk "${s[31]}"<<<${p[23]}` "/e*/{auto,{cron,fs}tab,hosts,{[lp],sy}*.conf,pam.d/*,ssh{,d}_config,*.local} {,/usr/local}/etc/periodic/*/* /L*/P*{,/*}/com.a*.{Bo,sec*.ap}*t /S*/L*/Lau*/*t .launchd.conf" list getenv /Library/Preferences/com.apple.alf\ globalstate --proxy '-n get default' -I --dns -getdnsservers\ "${p[N5]}" -getinfo\ "${p[N5]}" -P -m\ / '' -n1 '-R -l1 -n1 -o prt -stats command,uid,prt' '--regexp --only-files --files com.apple.pkg.*|sort|uniq' -kl -l -s\ / '-R -l1 -n1 -o mem -stats command,uid,mem' '+c0 -i4TCP:0-1023' com.apple.dashboard\ layer-gadgets '-d /L*/Mana*/$USER&&echo On' '-app Safari WebKitDNSPrefetchingEnabled' "+c0 -l|awk '{print(\$1,\$3)}'|sort|uniq -c|sort -n|tail -1|awk '{print(\$2,\$3,\$1)}'" );N1=${#c2[@]};for j in {0..9};do c2[N1+j]=SP${p[j]}DataType;done;N2=${#c2[@]};for j in 0 1;do c2[N2+j]="-n ' syscall::'${p[33+j]}':return { @out[execname,uid]=sum(arg0) } tick-10sec { trunc(@out,1);exit(0);} '";done;l=(Restricted\ files Hidden\ apps 'Elapsed time (s)' POST Battery Safari\ extensions Bad\ plists 'High file counts' User Heat System\ load boot\ args FileVault Diagnostic\ reports Log 'Free space (MiB)' 'Swap (MiB)' Activity 'CPU per process' Login\ hook 'I/O per process' Mach\ ports kexts Daemons Agents launchd Startup\ items Admin\ access Root\ access Bundles dylibs Apps Font\ issues Inserted\ dylibs Firewall Proxies DNS TCP/IP Wi-Fi Profiles Root\ crontab User\ crontab 'Global login items' 'User login items' Spotlight Memory Listeners Widgets Parental\ Controls Prefetching SATA Descriptors );N3=${#l[@]};for i in 0 1 2;do l[N3+i]=${p[5+i]};done;N4=${#l[@]};for j in 0 1;do l[N4+j]="Current ${p[29+j]}stream data";done;A0() { id -G|grep -qw 80;v[1]=$?;((v[1]==0))&&sudo true;v[2]=$?;v[3]=`date +%s`;clear >&-;date '+Start time: %T %D%n';};for i in 0 1;do eval ' A'$((1+i))'() { v=` eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((3+i))'() { v=` while read i;do [[ "$i" ]]&&eval "${c1[$1]} ${c2[$2]}" \"$i\"|'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}";done<<<"${v[$4]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};A'$((5+i))'() { v=` while read i;do '${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$1]}" "$i";done<<<"${v[$2]}" `;[[ "$v" ]];};';done;A7(){ v=$((`date +%s`-v[3]));};B2(){ v[$1]="$v";};for i in 0 1;do eval ' B'$i'() { v=;((v['$((i+1))']==0))||{ v=No;false;};};B'$((3+i))'() { v[$2]=`'${c1[30+i]}' "${s[$3]}"<<<"${v[$1]}"`;} ';done;B5(){ v[$1]="${v[$1]}"$'\n'"${v[$2]}";};B6() { v=` paste -d: <(printf "${v[$1]}") <(printf "${v[$2]}")|awk -F: ' {printf("'"${f[$3]}"'",$1,$2)} ' `;};B7(){ v=`grep -Fv "${v[$1]}"<<<"$v"`;};C0(){ [[ "$v" ]]&&echo "$v";};C1() { [[ "$v" ]]&&printf "${f[$1]}" "${l[$2]}" "$v";};C2() { v=`echo $v`;[[ "$v" != 0 ]]&&C1 0 $1;};C3() { v=`sed -E "$s"<<<"$v"`&&C1 1 $1;};for i in 1 2;do for j in 0 2 3;do eval D$i$j'(){ A'$i' $1 $2 $3; C'$j' $4;};';done;done;{ A0;D20 0 $((N1+1)) 2;D10 0 $N1 1;B0;C2 27;B0&&! B1&&C2 28;D12 15 37 25 8;A1 0 $((N1+2)) 3;C0;D13 0 $((N1+3)) 4 3;D23 0 $((N1+4)) 5 4;D13 0 $((N1+9)) 59 50;for i in 0 1 2;do D13 0 $((N1+5+i)) 6 $((N3+i));done;D13 1 10 7 9;D13 1 11 8 10;D22 2 12 9 11;D12 3 13 10 12;D23 4 19 44 13;D23 5 14 12 14;D22 6 36 13 15;D22 7 37 14 16;D23 8 15 38 17;D22 9 16 16 18;B1&&{ D22 35 49 61 51;D22 11 17 17 20;for i in 0 1;do D22 28 $((N2+i)) 45 $((N4+i));done;};D22 12 44 54 45;D22 12 39 15 21;A1 13 40 18;B2 4;B3 4 0 19;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 5 11;A1 17 41 20;B7 5;C3 22;B4 4 6 21;A3 14 7 32 6;B4 0 7 11;B3 4 0 22;A3 14 6 32 0;B4 0 8 11;B5 7 8;B1&&{ A2 19 26 23;B7 7;C3 23;};A2 18 26 23;B7 7;C3 24;A2 4 20 21;B7 6;B2 9;A4 14 7 52 9;B2 10;B6 9 10 4;C3 25;D13 4 21 24 26;B4 4 12 26;B3 4 13 27;A1 4 22 29;B7 12;B2 14;A4 14 6 52 14;B2 15;B6 14 15 4;B3 0 0 30;C3 29;A1 4 23 27;B7 13;C3 30;D13 24 24 32 31;D13 25 37 32 33;A2 23 18 28;B2 16;A2 16 25 33;B7 16;B3 0 0 34;B2 21;A6 47 21&&C0;B1&&{ D13 21 0 32 19;D13 10 42 32 40;D22 29 35 46 39;};D13 14 1 48 42;D12 34 43 53 44;D22 0 $((N1+8)) 51 32;D13 4 8 41 6;D12 26 28 35 34;D13 27 29 36 35;A2 27 32 39&&{ B2 19;A2 33 33 40;B2 20;B6 19 20 3;};C2 36;D23 33 34 42 37;B1&&D23 35 45 55 46;D23 32 31 43 38;D12 36 47 32 48;D13 20 42 32 41;D13 14 2 48 43;D13 4 5 32 1;D13 4 3 60 5;D12 26 48 49 49;B3 4 22 57;A1 26 46 56;B7 22;B3 0 0 58;C3 47;D22 4 4 50 0;D23 22 9 37 7;A7;C2 2;} 2>/dev/null|pbcopy;exit 2>&-
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
8. Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Click anywhere in the Terminal window and paste by pressing command-V. The text you pasted should vanish immediately. If it doesn't, press the return key.
9. If you see an error message in the Terminal window such as "Syntax error" or "Event not found," enter
exec bash
and press return. Then paste the script again.
10. If you're logged in as an administrator, you'll be prompted for your login password. Nothing will be displayed when you type it. You will not see the usual dots in place of typed characters. Make sure caps lock is off. Type carefully and then press return. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you make three failed attempts to enter the password, the test will run anyway, but it will produce less information. In most cases, the difference is not important. If you don't know the password, or if you prefer not to enter it, press the key combination control-C or just press return three times at the password prompt. Again, the script will still run.
If you're not logged in as an administrator, you won't be prompted for a password. The test will still run. It just won't do anything that requires administrator privileges.
11. The test may take a few minutes to run, depending on how many files you have and the speed of the computer. A computer that's abnormally slow may take longer to run the test. While it's running, there will be nothing in the Terminal window and no indication of progress. Wait for the line
[Process completed]
to appear. If you don't see it within half an hour or so, the test probably won't complete in a reasonable time. In that case, close the Terminal window and report what happened. No harm will be done.
12. When the test is complete, quit Terminal. The results will have been copied to the Clipboard automatically. They are not shown in the Terminal window. Please don't copy anything from there. All you have to do is start a reply to this comment and then paste by pressing command-V again.
At the top of the results, there will be a line that begins with the words "Start time." If you don't see that, but instead see a mass of gibberish, you didn't wait for the "Process completed" message to appear in the Terminal window. Please wait for it and try again.
If any private information, such as your name or email address, appears in the results, anonymize it before posting. Usually that won't be necessary.
13. When you post the results, you might see an error message on the web page: "You have included content in your post that is not permitted," or "You are not authorized to post." That's a bug in the forum software. Please post the test results on Pastebin, then post a link here to the page you created.
14. This is a public forum, and others may give you advice based on the results of the test. They speak only for themselves, and I don't necessarily agree with them.
Copyright © 2014 by Linc Davis. As the sole author of this work, I reserve all rights to it except as provided in the Use Agreement for the Apple Support Communities website ("ASC"). Readers of ASC may copy it for their own personal use. Neither the whole nor any part may be redistributed. -
I have frequent instances of my Macbook Pro beeping 3 times and then I have to forcefully shut it down by pressing the power button. What is this all about? Please help. Thank you.
I saw this report being sent to Apple:
Interval Since Last Panic Report: 581719 sec
Panics Since Last Report: 10
Anonymous UUID: F4CF708D-D85C-4EC5-8047-4FC22C6B03AF
Fri Mar 7 13:00:14 2014
panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff80002d1208): Kernel trap at 0xffffff800020c590, type 14=page fault, registers:
CR0: 0x0000000080010033, CR2: 0x0000000000000000, CR3: 0x0000000007541000, CR4: 0x0000000000040660
RAX: 0xffffff8000000000, RBX: 0xffffff800d35a870, RCX: 0xffffff800cf55cd8, RDX: 0xffffff80008a8fcc
RSP: 0xffffff805e5f3d60, RBP: 0xffffff805e5f3da0, RSI: 0x000000001dcd6500, RDI: 0xffffff800d168778
R8: 0x0000000000000001, R9: 0xffffff805e5f3e88, R10: 0x0000000000000011, R11: 0x0000000000000000
R12: 0x0000000000000000, R13: 0xffffff800d168770, R14: 0xffffff800d168778, R15: 0x0000000000000000
RFL: 0x0000000000010082, RIP: 0xffffff800020c590, CS: 0x0000000000000008, SS: 0x0000000000000010
Error code: 0x0000000000000000
Backtrace (CPU 0), Frame : Return Address
0xffffff805e5f3a00 : 0xffffff8000204d15
0xffffff805e5f3b00 : 0xffffff80002d1208
0xffffff805e5f3c50 :
Model: MacBookPro8,1, BootROM MBP81.0047.B27, 2 processors, Intel Core i5, 2.3 GHz, 4 GB, SMC 1.68f99
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 3000, Intel HD Graphics 3000, Built-In, 384 MB
Memory Module: global_name
AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x14E4, 0xD6), Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 5.100.198.104.5)
Bluetooth: Version 2.4.5f3, 2 service, 12 devices, 1 incoming serial ports
Serial ATA Device: Hitachi HTS545032B9A302, 298.09 GB
Serial ATA Device: OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5970H
USB Device: FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in), 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8509, 0xfa200000 / 3
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfa100000 / 2
USB Device: BRCM2070 Hub, 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.), 0x4500, 0xfa110000 / 5
USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x821a, 0xfa113000 / 8
USB Device: Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x0245, 0xfa120000 / 4
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfd100000 / 2
USB Device: IR Receiver, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8242, 0xfd110000 / 3Hmm. The problem still may be the RAM - Apple buys the RAM it puts in its machines from third-party vendors (usually Hynix) so it could be a RAM problem.
There are a couple of things that you can do yourself before taking your machine into an Apple Store or an AASP... download and run an application named Rember that will run a RAM test for you - let it run for a couple of hours or even overnight. If it turns out that your RAM is faulty, Rember will let you know. If it is faulty, then you have a couple of options - replace the RAM yourself or (particularly if you're under warranty still) take the machine to an Apple Store or AASP and have them replace the RAM.
If Rember finds no fault with the RAM, then you'll need to take it into an Apple Store/AASP and get a free diagnosis on the machine. Three beeps do usually indicate faulty RAM, but if it tests good with Rember you likely have another problem - it could be something as simple as the RAM, somehow, not seated correctly or signs of another hardware problem.
Run Rember first... call back with results.
Good luck,
Clinton -
What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi. I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed. Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates. I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery. I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden. It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks -
Can anyone help me? Why does my ipad kick me out of FB? Sometimes to the 'settings' page and sometimes to the desk top? I would like to know why this happens and what I can check or change to make it stop. I have 50.8 GB of capacity available; it is version IOS 5.1.1; model MC497LL. It is WIFI and internet via AT&T? Can anyone give me some clues on what to do; or change in settings??? Thank you very much!
Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test. -
I have followed the directions - and have downloaded Find My Ipad from Apple Store onto my Ipad2 and enabled the Find My Ipad in the Cloud settings. Now what do I do? No where does it tell me! Not in the user guide, nor any of the help pages. I think I need to put the Find My Ipad in the Cloud - but does this mean in the dropbox? and if so, how do I do that? I tried to drop and drag but it would not do that. I would think I would need to have it on my PC Windows 7 but I cannot figure out how to download the software. Please help. Thank you.
Also, the iPad User Guide is in the bookmarks in Safari on your iPad. It contains the information you're looking for ad much more?
http://help.apple.com/ipad/5/interface/ -
I have had an iPad 3G for more than a year now. I did not get it with a SIM card, since I expected to use almost completely at home, where we have wireless internet. Eventually, I decided it would be handy to be able to take it on the road, and signed up for pre-paid Internet with KPN (national Dutch telecommunications company). That worked fine, until the last big iPad software update. Since then, whenever I try to make a connection outside the house, I get the following message…
Mobile Data Account
You have not signed up for a data plan.
Would you like to set up a new account?
If you don’t, you can do it later in Settings.
…with the options of ‘Later’ or ‘Now’ to press. If I press Now, I get a screen “Please wait while the page is loading – this should only take a few seconds to complete.” But it never does, the ball just keeps spinning and spinning and spinning….
To my mind, with pre-paid internet I should not HAVE to set up a Mobile Data Account in the first place. I’ve checked with KPN, and my account is completely in order. I’ve checked with the local Apple store, and the geniuses say they’ve never seen this. Can anyone help me?I updated to 3.6.4 and when I went to NetFlix to watch the next show of a series, it said
something like
Installation complete, restart your browser.
I restarted browser, same problem. Restarted comp. Same problem.
I updated Adobe Flash 10.1, still same problem.
But able to watch some vids on other sites, but full screen gave me the big blank white screen with audio only, had to click around in the dark ( so to speak) to find the minimize button.
I did a System Restore to before the Firefox and Adobe updates.
I then did not update Firefox as recommended and went to NetFlix and wellah, i can view the movies again.
And Full Screen is fine.
I then experimented and updated Firefox only, went to NetFlix and got same msg with no viewable shows.
So did a System Restore once more.
Staying at 3.6.3 for a while longer until I know I can watch my movies.
I don't own a TV, so this is my only form of an occasional escape.
I do hope this is figured out soon.
With what I have done, it seems to be Firefox, Not Flash.
Good Luck to us all. -
Hello everyone, like most people on this site, I am having difficulties understanding and fixing my Macbook Pro. About a month ago my computer screen went black, the computer was unresponsive, and it started making a beeping noise. I restarted the computer, and it seemed to have fixed itself. 6 days ago, I put my laptop into it's case with some papers, went home (about 30 min. after putting laptop into case), and opened my bag. My computer's fans were on, the computer was really hot, and when I opened the computer, the screen was black and unresponsive. I turned it off, let it cool down, turned it back on, started to stream a video on Hulu, and about ten minutes after, the screen went black again and the computer was unresponsive. Now everytime I turn it on after about ten to fifteen minutes the screen will go black, the computer will become unresponsive, and I have to shut it off. The weird thing though is that everytime I restart my computer, when I reopen my account, my computer acts as if nothing has happened, and everything I had opened or unsaved is still there without autosave saving the documents.The screen also goes black and the computer becomes unresposive when I move the computer around. I get a lot of pop-up ads and other crap on my computer when I am on the internet. I don't know if one of those pop-up websites might have given me a virus or may be the cause of this problem. I don't now what is wrong with my computer or how to fix it, but if anyone has any advice, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!!!!!!! Thank you very much!!!
-- Sincerely, A very confused, scared, and hopless Macbok OwnerTo get rid of "pop-up ads and other crap on my computer when I am on the internet", click on Safari in the Menu bar, and select Preferences. Next select Extensions. Delete all of them. Restart Safari.
The first step in addressing the black screen is an SMC reset.
Shut down the computer.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time.
Release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
Press the power button to turn on the computer.
Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.
Excerpt from
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht39 -
I am trying to use siri, Siri keeps saying( SORRY SOMETHINGS GONE WRONG CAN YOU TRY AGAIN)
I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL NAMES AND NUMBERS IN MY CONTACTS.
What am I doing wrong or how can I correct it.Siri Fix
Turn OFF Siri
Reset Network Settings
Turn ON Siri
Done
Steps:
Tap Settings App>General>Siri>Turn OFF
General>Reset, near bottom>Reset Network Settings
Tap Settings App>General>Siri>Turn ON
Done -
"you do not have appropriate access privileges" - WHAT??
I did something to corrupt the operating system on my MAC G5. I had some things I really didn't want to loose on the main hard drive specifically - my iCAL, my iWeb, and my email. I had some other things on the desktop also.
A friend helped me to recover the system. Their suggestion was to copy all my main USER files onto an external drive, reformat the MAC Hard drive and then copy the USER file over to the machine again using the same short name I did before and setting that account to be an Admin.
I did that and now when I try to write to the internal hard drives I get the message "you do not have appropriate access privileges" or file error access denied. But I can write to any of the external hard drives.
I cannot figure out how to fix this. I deleted the USER/USER NAME (my old one)/Library/Keychain/login/login key and that didn't solve the problem.
Could it be that I need to reseat the internal hard drive??? or do I need to do something under keychain for the main computer and not the two user files I have in there now??
I was trying to do something really simple like copy a jpg file someone sent me to the internal HD and it wouldn't let me.
I appreciate your help. Every time I have posted a question, someone has helped and I really appreciate it. I searched the database for a similar problem but couldn't find it.If you still have the User folder you copied to the external, instead of dragging it back which I think is causing problems with permissions, how about reinstall your OS using the Install disks on the internal, and then from their respective applications import just those particulars you wanted to keep.
For example if you dragged back the file com.apple.Mail.plist back to its home location in ~/Library/Preferences your Mail should connect as before. Then, in Mail you can then import your externally copied Mailboxes.
That's how I would have gone about it if it was a case of scavenging what I could of a corrupted boot drive. Maybe you can still do it this way.
Dragging a (User) folder onto an OS won't satisfy the OS that this is a valid user, rather just a confusing thing to deal with. I know it seems a simple thing to do but the OS just doesn't get it. It prefers having the User account set up in itself, and then it knows about it.
Message was edited by: roam -
i tried to install the recent itunes update and this kept popping up...what the heck does that mean? please help! Service-apple mobile device failed to start. verify that you have sufficient privileges to start system services
Hey I finally got an older vesion of itunes to work!!! 10.7 x64 for windows 7
After uninstalling all apple products even quicktime
I had to delete everything from (program files, and program files x64, program data,)
And all downloads from apple, and I went in to search deleted other stuff from apple, and itunes
But definently not my itunes library and Playlist
Down loaded 10.7 x64 for windows 7, but checked (do not start when done)
Then I emptied my recycling bin and restarted my PC
I ran geek tech tool box same as reg cure pro, also PC Tools registry cleaner, and CC Cleaner
Then I emptied my recycling bin and restarted my PC
And wallah... It finally works, and I Love the older version anyways.
Easier to download and transfer music!!!!! -
I am trying to open iTunes on my mac. But a box pops up saying "The folder iTunes is on a locked disk or you do not have write permissions for this folder". Anyone know what that means? I've had my computer 2 years and its never had a problem opening it
I've already right-clicked on the application, clicked "get info", and changed it so all people listed in the "Sharing & Permissions" section have the "read & write" privilage.
The error message is referring to your iTunes library, not your iTunes application.
You need to check and fix the permissions of the iTunes folder in your iTunes library. This is by default located in your "Music" folder.
Select the folder Music > iTunes in the Finder, right click on it or Ctrl Click and click "Get Info". At the bottom of the contextual window thatwill pop up, disclose the Sharing and Permissions brick, change your status from Read only to Read & Write. You may need to click the padlock icon to make changes. -
I have replied to you three times now without reply. I DID NOT authorise a payment of £9.99 for NowTV. What is the solution to getting my money refunded. I think you assume I will go away after being Ignored. No I will not go away. I find now that you have DISABLED MY APPLE ID. Is this a punishment you use to anyone who takes up a stand against charges being made unauthorised on their account?. Please tell me why you have disabled my account. When will my account be restored? If not when will you refund ALL my purchases made to APPLE/ITUNES? I can then move on to another brand and hopefully better customer service. After reading articles regarding APPLE ID DISABLED it appears common practice from your company to DISABLE anyone's account if they question unknown charges. Please reply with your intentions regarding the unauthorised payment and the DISABLING of my account.
David Forrester.
Sent from my iPad
On 18 Mar 2014, at 09:20, iTunes Store <[email protected]> wrote:
Follow-Up: 319042795
Hello again,
I wanted to send a quick note to see if you are still experiencing any difficulties with the iTunes Store. Resolving your issue is important to me, so please don't hesitate to reply if you need any further assistance.
Sincerely,
iTunes Store Customer Support
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/ww/
Dear David,
Welcome to iTunes Store Customer support.
I understand that you have been charged an additional 9.99 GBP for a purchase that not authorized. I know how eager you are to know more about this purchase and I am happy to look into this for you.
David, the purchase worth 9.99 GBP was for a day pass from "NOW TV for Apple TV." To review your iTunes Store account's purchase history, please follow the steps in this article:
iTunes Store & Mac App Store: Seeing your purchase history and order numbers
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2727
Please reply to this email and let me know if this purchase was unauthorized.
Thank you for being an iTunes Store customer. Have a great day!
Sincerely,
iTunes Store Customer Support
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/ww/
Lang_Country: en_gb
User Storefront: UK
Concern Type: Problem Not Listed
Web Order #:
Content Title: NOW TV Day Pass
Provider Name: BSkyB
Track IDs: []
Purchase Date : 2014-03-16 12:33:48 Etc/GMT
Purchase Device : Apple TV
Comments : I am being charged for what is listed plus another _9.99 for Apple TV pass. Did not authorise this _9.99 charge and not sure what it is exactly.
<Personal Information Edited by Host>This is a user-supported board. You are not addressing Apple here. Nor is it a good idea to post your private information to a public forum. You should edit your post immediately.
Unfortunately no one here can access your support history. You must respond to the emails directly. -
XPERIA Z -What kind of service/SUPPORT standards do you have? Is there any at all?
Hi guys. Hello sony mobile people. My name is Isaiah and I'm from Manila, Philippines. I am a solid sony fan boy for morethan 10 years now (mobile phones). Or maybe was a solid sony fan boy. Not until yesterday happened. 12/17/2013.
I heavily supported sony mobile products back when it was still sony ericsson. From the K-models, to vivaz, and up until to the xperia. I even strongly recommend it to my friends and family and keep persuading them to switch to a sony mobile device because of its outstanding design, features, and solid build quality. And I'm always excited when there is a new model or flagship mobile device to be released by sony. Correct me if I'm wrong but the engineers I guess were hurrying up to put out this new waterproof mobile devices out there without carefully checking, testing, and making sure that your phones are absolutely what they say they are.
I'm a chef. I work in the kitchen. Some Eight years ago I was working in the kitchen with my newly acquired sony phone, the k700i to be exact. I was very proud of it for it was my very first coloured phone with camera. I kept it inside the chest pocket of my Chef's jacket when suddenly I reached out on an Ice Chest full of cold water, and as i leaned to reach out for a bucket of ice, my unconcious mind forgot about the law of gravity. So the phone eventually and immediately slipped outside my pocket and went directly inside of the ice chest and fully submerged in very cold water. It was turned on and on standby mode. No matter how fast I reacted to retrieve it from the ice cold water it was already too late. By the moment I had it the screen was fully black. No power button could even wake it up. Long story short, the phone died right then and there. It wasnt waterproof and it was totally my fault. I took some time for me to move on for that was a very expensive device back then. It was such a loss.
After that incident I kept on wishing that one day sony would make a device which is waterproof or something that would be able to withstand the heat, the chaos, the wet, the dirty, and the sticky environment of the kitchen. Years have passed and now I have my own restaurant. Cooking even more, staying even more longer inside the kitchen. One of my very favorites was the Xperia Arc S. I bought two, one white and one black. My friends thought it was weird and stupid of me to get two units of the same brand and model. I say it was the obsession to have nice things that lead me to have both, it made me happy. And finally Sony releases the Xperia Z.
It was the ultimate dream come true.
I bought two units in an instant. One for me and one for my fiancee who also works in the kitchen.
We loved it. And everything about it. It suited our lifestyle perfectly. Great photos, internet connectivity, water proof, great size, and extremely good looking.
Not until her phone started to charge in a funny manner. The phone just wont charge 100% it would stop at around 54% and never reach anything beyond it. We didnt mind for as long as we had hopes it would go back to normal.
Then after a week. It wouldnt charge anymore until the battery went 0%. It died.
Then charging it was useless. It wont charge at all. We left it on the charger for 30 minutes. An hour. Three hours. Still nothing. We tried all trouble shooting provided by the sony website. Still nothing.
I checked for the pink and red discoloration indicators on all ports. The one on top with the earphone jack was pink. And we never even went to a pool or submerged it under water. The last time it got wet was due to wiping it clean using a wetwipes.
and all ports were always closed properly. The only time we open it is when we charge it. So it is a total mystery to us how the water got in. Could it be the defect came from the plug of the port itself? Probably. Or our unit was poorly made.
I went to the sony mobile center here in our country to have them fix it and check it. It seems like the problem of my phone was hardware according to them. And they suggest that I just purchase a new unit because there is no way to fix our unit anymore.
Oh my god. This phone aint even half a year old and they want me to buy a new one just because fixing it would amount to the price of a new one. As if its that easy to buy a new one. I feel like I have been scammed big time. The phone doesnt even have bumps or scrathces at all because of protective casings and it just died like that. Like it had a heart attack and can no longer be revived.
The customer support really surprised me. It was as if they were very used to answering it that way because maybe I wasn't the first one to have that kind of problem. And by the way I bought my fiancee a Xperia Z Ultra the day the xperia z died. Im planning to surprise her with it for christmas. But I just got depressed with this incident. I mean I am making Sony Mobile rich because I keep buying your products and in return when I, the customer, needs help or reasoning, repair, or any positive promises from you this is what I get. You tell me to just buy another one. Because youre too proud to tell in my face that your product is not defective at all and the fault is mine. And you wouldn't do anything about it.
You see, the trust that I had with your company for a very long time took years to build. My loyalty to the brand is just so solid.
And it took just one defective model to ruin it. One reasonless suggestion of go ahead and just buy another one as if it costs less than a dollar. Warranty? What for? You wont even listen to your cutomers around the world. More like buy at your own risk, or buy our products because you are filthy rich and when a defective one catches you just buy another one coz money dont cost a thing. So to the engineers. Don't say that it is waterproof if it really aint. have you really even tried testing it on all different scenarios? Really? I just hope the Z ultra I purchased wont die as well. If it does. I'll start telling and suggesting everyone in my community to beware of your products. You can't even fix your own ceations properly and in a humanely manner. It is not as if my phone blew up.
You know what is more annoying is the fact that important information, pictures, files, videos, and numbers can never be retrieved on that xperia z. And that is the priceless part. And i am surprised that you guys can't really do anything about it. Xperia is experience right? I guess its true what they say. Experience Zzzzz.... it will now be sleeping forever.
Word of advice. Please. Learn how to take care of your customers. Especially the loyal ones. They are one of the major reasons why other people are switching to your brand. When left unsatisfied, they can also do otherwise. Thank you for wasting my money. make believe. sure
Solved!
Go to Solution.Yes I cannot deny the fact that errors and flaws are always present in such mobile devices due to extremely large or volume productions. But then again. We are paying customers who expect nothing but seamless service and performance that is why we pay premium for something premium. From what I see this warranties are not guarantees at all. We pay a lot so we expect a lot. We deserve respect. The company could at least hire a real mobile technician, as if they can't afford to hire one.
We can consider but only to a certain point. But matters like this wherein priceless information is lost, unretrievable, and more important information stored on the phone memory they could at least be more dependable in giving back to you.
From what I have read form other complains regarding this similar topic, Xperia Care is not doing anything at all, instead they answer like robots with the same messages and solutions that don't even work at all. And they said they have admins here who monitors everything all the time. To answer our queries. But I guess my plead is a good example of the kind of actions they are trying to do, they are doing nothing at all. They should name this place Xperia Don't Care or maybe they just forgot to place the Don't part.
This is hard earned money that I used to buy their products, blood, sweat, and sleepless working nights just to buy their products. By the looks of it they are treating their products as a disposable one. Something that would not last for half or one fourth of a lifetime. This kind of dissapointment that I have will keep on growing and other customers dissapointment will grow stroger as well. In due time it will lead to the failure of the whole brand of the mobile giant. This company does not understand that it will only take a spark to set the whole angry and unsatisfied customers on fire towards the brand name.
They keep claiming stuff, it feels like they are just scamming the customers of their hard earned money to buy something defective and disposable. Let us see on how they could cope up with social media, exposing how damaging their products are and how they treat their customers when a defective item comes up. -
I backed up my old core 2 duo imac and and was trying to transfer files to my new 2011 imac and when i go to oppen a folder from what i transferred it says "The folder “Music” can’t be opened because you don’t have permission to see its contents". Why cant i access the files from my old mac? I tried the time machine and that isnt working either. I have files that I need to use on my new mac, all my old programs and such. I thought they said it was easy to get your files from one mac to another. Please help.
Your account names are probably different on the two Macs. If you know the UNIX command line, open a terminal window and run:
$ id
You should see a line that starts with something like this:
uid=501(your_user_id_here)
now check the owner of the folder you copied over:
$ ls -ld Music
drwx------+ 8 some_user_id_here staff 272 May 14 16:08 Music
Do the IDs match? If not, you could change the ownership. Say your id is "johnsmith"
$ chown -R johnsmith Music
Now try and access it with iTunes.
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