What format should I convert my itunes library to?

I'm not sure if this is the right place but oh well. I have an itunes library of 12,455 songs. I just realized that I had been using a sample rate of 48 kHz, instead of the usual 44.1kHZ. So I'm going to try to convert my music again but I'm confused on which file format to go for (aac or mp3), I hear aac is better than mp3. I'm looking for something that can play on most equipment and still sound good without being huge in filesize. I figure if I'm going to be ripping my music again than I might as well choose something that sounds good. Only problem is that I have all my music backed up on an old hard drive in 320 kbps mp3 so I'm wondering if its a good idea to use aac after all being that the source material is in mp3 format. What do people recommend I should do?

mp3 is more global, so if you decide against using itunes in the future, you wouldn't have to convert anything again.

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What format should I use to archive camcorder videos.

I've seen many different variations of my question on the forums, but nothing answering all my questions. So, here goes.
I have a minidv camcorder and I've been ripping the video to dv files using imovie hd 6. I then put together the clips that should be together and tell imovie to convert those clips into one. My question is the format. I have been using dv, but for an hour minidv tape, it's over 10 gig. I then copy these dv files to my external drive and back them up with mozy.
My question is what format "should" I be archiving them to? I plan on keeping them forever of course. And there might be a day that I go to mess with them, maybe add some effects. I'm no video editor, but I'm finding that the mac has such awesome (and easy for a beginner) tools that I actually want to mess with video.
There are so many formats, but I don't want to lose quality to save hd space. If I were to convert them to mov or mpeg4, would the quality be as good. What about size, would the size be much different?
Sorry for the large post. I'm a little lost when it comes to this stuff, but I'm trying to learn.
Thanks.

Cool, thanks. I had a feeling at least one person was going to say that, but I wanted to make sure. With the price of external hard drive's dropping like they are, and mozy being so cheap, might as well use the space and keep the quality.
Thanks again...

What do i do once my itunes library is too big to fit on one drive?

I have a 1 tb drive and I can upgrade it even to a 3 tb drive but eventually i am going to fill that one too. What are my options once my itunes Library fills my HDD. I use this library to syn to multiple computers and apple tv units throughout my house.
Any suggestions?
Alan

connect the external to your Mac and make sure it is properly formatted
go iTunes > preferences > advanced and point iTunes media folder location to the external
on the same tab, ensure the copy to ... when adding option is checkmarked and ok out
select (highlight) the content you want to move in iTunes, right-click (or ctrl-click), and choose consolidate files from the pop-up menu
repeat as necessary pointing iTunes media folder location to other drives/locations.
when the moving's done, you can delete the original files to make room on your boot drive.

What format should Full Screen DV be imported into for editing?

I have a rather lengthy program recorded in Full Screen DV. What format should it be converted to for editing on a macbook pro? A format that has the best quality when rendered but not so taking on the computer when editing.
I need: Frame rate, file format, pixel size, etc...
Thanks

... program recorded in Full Screen DV. What format should it be converted to for editing on a macbook pro?
The video needs to be QuickTime/Apple DV codec (Apple DV-PAL if you are in Europe, Apple DV-NTSC if you are in North America).
If your video is already in that format, there is no conversion necessary or desireable.
The alternative would be QuickTime/Apple Intermediate Codec but if your material is already DV the conversion will cause loss of quality.

What format should I burn video files in, so I could import it to final cut

I need to burn video files on a DVD and then upload those files into the final cut pro.
What format should I use when I burn those files on the DVD?

Ideally, you should stick with DV -it's already a highly compressed format to begin with and even then it comes in at 13GB per hour. Compressing even further and then converting back to DV to use the files in FCP will have a visible impact on quality.
A dual layer DVD can hold around 8 GB. They could burn the discs using Toast 9 or 10 which can split larger files across multiple discs.
If you have lots more, perhaps it would be better to invest in an external laptop drive and put the files on that. There are models that are powered via the FireWire bus, so that would also get around the fact that different voltages are used abroad.

My laptop had some work done on it and now my iTunes library is gone. My Nano 4 has all of my music on it and I want to sync what I have back into my iTune library. Anyone know how?

My laptop had some work done on it and now my iTunes library is gone. My Nano 4 has all of my music on it and I want to sync what I have back into my iTune library. Anyone know how?

If you purchased all of the songs through itunes store, please follow these steps:
1. Open up Itunes and Click on Itunes Store
2. Once you're in the Itunes Store look to right side of the screen and you should see the word "purchased". Click purchased and you'll be sent to a purchase screen.
3. Click on "All Songs" and then it will show all the songs you've downloaded. From there you just hit the button that looks like a cloud with an arrow on it, and it will download all the songs all over again.
If you didn't purchase them through Itunes, then you'll have to download software that will strip the songs from your iPod onto your computer. And here is a guide about how to copy iPod music. Hope it helps. Feel free to email me if you need further help.

I want to format my hard drive so i can have files bigger than 4GB what format should I use?

I have a new hard drive that I want to format so it will work with both mac and PC (windows) but I have files that are bigger than 4GB, what format should I use?
It needs to work with both PC and mac because I need to go between two computers etc

If both of these computers are connect to the same router, both are in your home or place of work (Both are in the same location), it is very easy to Network them so you don't have to use DropBox or the external drive to share files between them.
MickAUS2012 wrote:
yea thanks for that, i have drop box so i use that for some of my smaller files. Im just new to the mac so this is all a learning experince thanks for all your help everyone!

If I want to keep the quality of the original captured footage(from the tapes),what format should I?

I captured canon hv20 by firewire to my computer with adobe premiere elements 11. After capture, I have cutted clip three times. Then I want to export my computer because of I watch on my 46 inches full hd lcd television. If I want to keep the quality of the original captured footage (from the tapes), what format should I? I choosen mpeg 1440x1080i 24, it alerts error. Or i chosee avchd 1920x1080p, then it is too larger than captured scenes. I think it is 20000MB but captured scened (without cut) only 11.2 gb. Please help me. Thanks very much.

YCLCS
File size and Bitrate and Quality are interrelated. From what I have read, the bitrate for your HDV footage from the PAL Canon HV20 camcorder should be about 25 Mbps (megabits per second). If you did a HDV data capture firewire into Premiere Elements, you should MPEG2.mpg file on the Timeline.
When you did your export
Publish+Share
Computer
MPEG
using Presets = MPEG2 1440 x 1080i25, did you make any changes in the settings under the Advanced Button/Video Tab of the preset?
When you look at the settings in the Export Settings dialog for the MPEG 1440 x 1080i25 preset, you will see the default bitrate settings
Minimum = 18 Mbps
Target = 25 Mbps
Maximum = 30 Mbps
The program's export bitrate may be higher than that of your source media, resulting in the increased file size. You can check out the bitrate, using the properties readout from a free program such a MediaInfo
http://mediainfo.sourceforge.net/en
You could experiment with different bitrate, trying to maintain the quality as you decrease the maximum bitrate from 30 Mbps downward to reduce the file size.
The file extension of your export should be .m2t, .mpg. So, your export is MPEG2.m2t. I find that that type of file will playback in Windows Media Player, but not QuickTime (latest version). This particular export would be the closest to the source media properties.
But, right now I would try to perfect the MPEG2 1440 x 1080i25, experimenting with the bitrate to bring the file size into line with the source file and still maintain video quality. The AVCHD.mp4 suggested by Ann Bens is a prime candidate quality wise. If size becomes a factor, you might want to explore a 1920 x 1080i25 or 1440 x 1080i25 Windows Media Video 9.wmv file which we can discuss in more detail depending on how things are going.
Please review the above and then let us know how we can help.
Thanks.
ATR

I would like to format the external hard disk. I would like to use it in Mac as well as in Windows. What format should I do, connect to Macbook Pro? MS-DOS (FAT) or ExFAT ?

I would like to format the external hard disk. I need to use it in Mac as well as in Windows. What format should I do, connect to Macbook Pro? MS-DOS (FAT) or ExFAT ?

success1975 wrote:
Thanks
1) In 'ExFAT' format, is there a limitation on the file size?
Not one that will matter.
2) Is 'MAC OS Extended' format, only for MAC computers?
Yes, only for Mac
3) What are those (a) journaled (b) Encrypted & (c) Case-sensitive? or when to use those?
Again, only for Mac.

What format should my external audio drive be?

Sorry if this has been answered many times before, but I couldn't get a concise answer in my search.
What format should my external audio drive be?
Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
Mac OS Extended
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive, Journaled)
Mac OS Extended (Case-sensitive)
Thanks.

Mac OS Extended (Journaling off)
pancenter-

What format should AutoCAD be saved in to open in Adobe Illustrator for editing colors?

What format should AutoCAD be saved in to open in Adobe Illustrator for editing colors?

DWG 2010. Depending on the version of ACAD and AI, the results may vary...
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TS1702 What to do when you get "iTunes library app not installed on iPhone; app could not be found"

What to do when you get "iTunes library app not installed on iPhone; app could not be found". None of the Apple suggestions fix the problem. For example, with Animoto, one of the problem apps, I have removed it, reinstalled it, and still get the eoor message.

Of course.
First of all, this started when an external drive i was using died on me. I have no doubt that these apps indeed are off my system. I figure between the apps I've bought for myself and my kid, I have about 150 apps.
Now. The issue.
When I sync my iPad with iTunes on my desktop, it goes through normally until it gets to the apps. When that happens, it get an error box that reads "Some of the apps in your iTunes library were not installed on the iPad because one or more errors occurred. For a list of appps that could not be installed, click on the triangle below."
Then I get a list of apps.
(Added note to any iTunes developers out there: The titles of the apps in this list do not always match the titles of the apps in the App Store. For example, one was called "MuseumGame" on my iPad. It's called "Museum of Thieves" on the App Store. I started out with a list of 60 apps. It was a major pain to track them all down. It would be nice to have everything the same so I can use the App Store search more effectively.)
Anyway, moving on....
The error message stops my sync until I dismiss it. That, honestly, is what makes this whole thing annoying enough to seek out an answer. I can't let my iPad start syncing and walk out of the room. Yeah. I know. First World problems.
Once I dismiss the error, the sync continues and all is well.
I did the following to try to fix the problem. Mostly, I did a lot of searches:
My list of purchased apps on my iPad both using the search box and by going to every page
Searched the main App Store on my iPad using the search field. When that didn't work, I used wider searches and just scanned the page(s) for the little cloud icon that showed I had purchased the app.
I got on my desktop iTunes and searched the apps from there (without a lot of hope, but trying to be complete)
At that point, I came to the conclusion that a small number of the apps are no longer available on the App Store.
Fine. I didn't want them anyway.
I got into iTunes and went to the Apps page. None of the errant apps showed up there. I searched the iTunes help files. Nothing. I crossed my fingers, said a little prayer to the search engine gods, and tried Google. I found some things that sort of matched but they basically boiled down to "re-download the app from the App Store" or "Restore your iPad".
So I spent a couple of hours restoring my iPad. I got the error message again. I hit Google again and came up with this thread. It was as close to my problem as I found.
I think that brings us up to date.
My fundamental problem is that I seem to have found a scenario where if you have to restore apps (because, perhaps, your external drive died) and some of the apps are no longer available for download, there is an error generated that can not be permanently dismissed.
Did I miss anything important?

What format should I import CDs on???

Hellllllooo
I have just started to get into audio quality, and all that sort of stuff...
I would like to know what format I should import CDs to my itunes library on, as i have just purchased a pair of high end Sennheiser headphones, and i do not want to waste the quality of the headphones with cheap, rubbish sounding music.
I currently use AAC with Itunes Plus (128kbps mono/ 256kbps stereo, 44.100kHz, VBR) and was wondering if this would get the full potential out of the headphones. I will just be using the music for home listening but i am quite picky about music quality.
Should i change these import settings? If so, then what should i change them to?
Please help, Thanks!
P.S What are 'Channels' and what do they do? There are 2, 'Stereo' and 'Mono'...? Help again please!!!

I currently use AAC with Itunes Plus (128kbps mono/ 256kbps stereo, 44.100kHz, VBR) and was wondering if this would get the full potential out of the headphones. I will just be using the music for home listening but i am quite picky about music quality.
Should i change these import settings? If so, then what should i change them to?
Most users, who are not so demanding about audio quality, use MP3/256 or AAC/256.
Since you are "picky" about quality and are using good quality gear, you should consider a lossless format, of which iTunes Supports three: WAV, AIFF, and Apple Lossless. Apple Lossless is the most compact of the three, so is the best choice as long as you don't plan to use your music on non-Apple players.
P.S What are 'Channels' and what do they do? There are 2, 'Stereo' and 'Mono'...? Help again please!!!
If you are importing from audio CDs, you are using 2-channel stereo. If you switch it to mono you will lose all the stereo separation.

What is purpose of having an iTunes Library when I already have purchased apps?

I am new to the Apple ecosystem, so please pardon my ignorance here. I am using iTunes on Windows desktop, but I have the same problem on my Mac laptop.
I have some apps purchases that show up when I am in iTunes and select Purchased or Apps.
But when I select the option of My iPhone Apps at the middle top of the screen, or select My iPad Apps, the list of apps is empty. Yet, I clearly have purchasesd some, because they show up under "Purchased."
And when I run the Apps app in my iPhone, it shows the purchased items that are NOT on my iPhone but are ready for downloading to my iPhone.
So, this is making me wonder: What is the purpose of having an iTunes Library for storage or syncing, when I could use the Purchased list?
Am I misunderstanding the reason for having the Library?
thanks

So, it sounds like I should move them to the iTunes Library for both my iPhone and my iPad. I found that if I click the app, it appears in the library. Among the apps that I have purchased, there are some apps that I don't want anymore. So I assume that I should NOT click (i.e. move) those to the Library, right?

What Framerate Should I Convert to?

I shot a feature with the Canon 5D Mark 2. Most of it was shot before the firmware update, so most of the footage is at 30 fps, but some is at 29.97. The film will eventually be converted to 24 fps for the film look. The release will be DVD, and possibly a film transfer. Should I convert to 24 fps now, or should I convert everything to 29.97, or to 30? Should it be 23.976? Should I wait until after I edit to convert to 24? Lost, would appreciate some advice.

OK, here's why you shouldn't edit at 24 (=23.98).
You can change the 30fps footage to 29.97 by simply conforming the frame rate of the clip, as others have pointed out--in other words, slowing it down by .1%. Each frame will remain exactly as it was recorded, it will just be played for 1/29.97 of a second instead of 1/30.
As others have pointed out, this will require you to slow down any synched audio by .1% as well. But there will be no quality hit to your footage. Yes, it will have to be compressed to ProRes, but that's it.
However, if you use Compressor to change the frame rate to 23.98, it can't simply drop one out of every five frames, and it can't just play each frame for 1/23.98 of a second, because that will be noticeable. It will have to invent frames that don't currently exist, and this will involve a significant quality hit. Things may look soft; the motion may look funky.
I guess what I'm saying is that, let's be honest, doing a film transfer from 30p is not going to look good. Doing a film transfer from video is already a big quality hit, and changing the frame rate is going to make that worse. If you really wanted to keep 35mm as a viable option, you should have shot film or at least an HD format that allows for 24p.
That's not to say you don't have lots of distribution options. But you shouldn't compromise the quality of your 30p master, which could be used for TV or DVD distribution, in favor of a potential 35mm transfer that (a) probably won't happen and (b) will not look good if it does.

What format should I convert my itunes library to?

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