What is a good slide and negative scanner?

Just a warning, I'll be posting this in multiple forums to get a good selection of opinions.
Hi, I need to buy a film and slide scanner. I like epson, but in my experience with these types of scanners, they can be sketchy in quality. Can you suggest a good slide and film scanner that you've used and that works well?
Thanks,
Stan

I've used a Nikon Super Coolscan 8000 before, with spectacular results -- great colours, good grain management, excellent infrared-detection dust and scratch removal, fantastic resolution and sharpness. My only complaint is that due to the curvature (concavity) of slide film, the focus was not equally sharp across the entire image. If focus is set to the centre, the edges and corners were a bit sharper. Anyway know of a scanner in the same price ballpark (circa $1500-$3500) that handles that aspect better? eg. glass sandwich to flatten the film or something?

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Scanning 35 mm slides and negatives

I would like to start a project of converting all of my many 35 mm slides and negatives to create DVDs, probably with FotoMagico2. I seek some advice as to the best scanner for this project. Two have been recommended to me, a Canon 8800F and an Epson V500. Both are around $200, which is an acceptable price, and both can more than one image at a time (a timesaver). Any advice as to which of these is better, or if there is an even better alternative? If so, I would appreciate it.

James Symons1 wrote:
. I seek some advice as to the best scanner for this project. Two have been recommended to me, a Canon 8800F and an Epson V500. Both are around $200, which is an acceptable price,
I have used an Epson SU 1640 and i am using an Epson V700 these days. I am verry satisfied with these products. As for filmscanners, i have used the low priced Minolta Dimage Dual Scan III in the past. It's performence was good but the quality delivered by V700 made it obsolete.
The V500 would be my choice based on the expereance i had with its big brother the V700 and the SU 1640 (witch is a mutch older model). I also recomend Silverfast software to get good quality scans out of dificult negatives or slides. The Silverfast SE version is often included with the scanner ( check this out for the V500). Silverfast offers trail versions on it's site and has special prises for upgrades and crossgrades. The SEplus version is my preference for a mariage between economy and performance. I have used it, with the SU1640, for some time before i upgraded to the V700 and Silverfast Ai. The only reason for this upgrade was that i continue to use medium format film beside my digital camera.
There is one last thing. Scanning 'many slides and negatives' with scanners and software in this product range is verry time consuming.

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Scanning Slides and Negatives: JPEG vs. TIFF - what do I really give up?

I am about to scan about 1,200 slides and color negatives and am trying to determine whether I should produce JPEGs or TIFFs. I did a test run and compared the quality of 4,000 dpi JPEG vs. TIFF and the image quality appeared similar - even when comparing print enlargements using a lupe. The file sizes differ dramatically -- so I am biased to produce JPEG, all other things equal. I understand that one major difference is that each time a JPEG is saved, some image degradation occurs since the compression is not 'lossless'.
A few questions regarding the drawback of using JPEGs as my 'masters' in Aperture:
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- Is there any adjustment that cannot be made within Aperture to a JPEG, that can be accomplished with a TIFF?
- Any other drawbacks that I should consider when using a JPEG as the 'master' for my images within Aperture (vs. TIFFs)?
Note that I am not concerned about drawbacks associated with functionality in other programs (Photoshop, etc.), just drawbacks associated with functionality in Aperture.
Thanks!

Since I am using Aperture, and a feature of Aperture is always maintaining the 'master' without change, do I not have some protection against image quality loss (i.e., beyond that which occurred during the initial scan)? Is there any adjustment that cannot be made within Aperture to a JPEG, that can be accomplished with a TIFF? Any other drawbacks that I should consider when using a JPEG as the 'master' for my images within Aperture (vs. TIFFs)?
Along the lines of Live Picture, which was the first colour correction software for ColorSync, and LinoColor which was the first colour capture software for ColorSync, Aperture constructs ICC colour matching sessions to show the colours different colour devices are capable of forming, and does not change the source pixels in the colour correction process.
Nonetheless, JPEG is a lossy model by definition. It works the way compression works in the CIELa*b colour model or in Kodak's colour model for PhotoCD, that is, by destroying information in the chroma channels and preserving information in the lightness channel. Using JPEG as archival master is not a good idea imho, at least not if changes are to be made to the archival master.
For archival masters, select a colour correction ICC colour space (a 'working space' in Adobe terminology) that is large enough to hold any colours you are capable of capturing, and large enough to hold any colours the innumerable colour devices you will be matching to are capable of forming. You can use the Apple ColorSync Utility to check gamuts.
You cannot reproduce a colour that you do not have in your source colour space, even if the colour device you are matching to is capable of forming that colour. For instance, don't use sRGB that is too small to form the colour of pure cyan on bright art paper in ISO 12647 offset printing. And you may want to use TIFF that can be compressed losslessly. Always embed the ICC profile for the colour space in which you capture/corrected the image. Otherwise, there is no definition of the colours your colourants should form on colour devices that need to have the colourants changed in order to form the colours you intended.
/hh

Scanning slides and negatives for iMovie

What dpi setting should I use to scan my 35mm color slides and b/w negatives that will be imported into iMovie? I may want to print some of the photos too, so should I use a higher dpi and will iMovie compress the image to what it needs? When completed in iMovie, I'll burn to dvd with iDVD.

Hi Rick - my (not very powerful) dedicated slide scanner just scans to 1800dpi, and they usually result in rather dark images that have to be 'pushed' a lot in Photoshop - then the results are very acceptable. While in Photoshop you can also remove dust and other blemishes (some of my old ones had tiny patches of mould, and a few scratches as well!). As others say, scan at highest dpi possible - this also allows for some KB zooming (which is very useful especially for pics taken in portrait-mode).
In a few cases with very dark slides, the scanning was not very successful, so I used my video camera aimed at a projector screen (keep the image small), which worked very well, even allowing for zooming and panning to be done.
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bint
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Hi there
I believe that an overhead projector typically assumes 1024x768. I use dual overheads at the church where I'm a media jockey and that's the size those use. I might imagine that's quite common as they were just installed last January.
However, Captivate tosses a wrinkle in the mix by adding another number of pixels to the height. This is done in order to make room for a playback control below the main part of the movie. Additionally, when you are using a browser to present the Captivate movie, you also need to account for the area reserved for the right scrollbar. Not only that, but again in a browser you also need to subtract pixels to account for the Menu bar, toolbars and Status bar.
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I HAVE MANY OLD SLIDES FROM MY FAMILY,WHAT IS A GOOD 35MM SLIDE SCANNER THAT CAN BE USE WITH MY MACBOOK PRO?

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Can anyone recommend a scanner or other device for old family slides that must converted in a digital format and saved in a DVD and external hard drive?
Thanks
Wandafromqc

Don't even think about scanning thousands of slides yourself. If you have 5000 family slides, it's overwhelmingly likely that just 500 of them will give a highly effective representation of the whole collection, and will include not only all of the best ones but many of the second-best ones too. Scanning them all, or even half of them, will consume your entire summer and would probably give you and your sibs a lot more pictures than any of you really wants to keep.
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Recommendations for film / negative scanner

I am planning on the (massive) project of scanning back slides and negatives into digital format. From research so far it looks like a Nikon scanner may work best as dedicated film scanner. Looks like flatbed scanners would not produce as good a quality - but maybe they would be okay for non-commercial family pictures that I'll be working with. Anyone with any recommendations? I would like to do the job only once (of course) and ideally have the ability for scanner to self-feed through the few images on each negative and not have to preview / rescan each image. Any help appreciated!
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Bob:
Just remember when you're finished with scanning the negatives and slides you'll have a nice door stop. I did that with a Polaroid Sprintscan LE. I did scan a lot of slides but it was useless when I finished. I just bought a Canon 8600F scanner that does slides and film strips. The newer flatbeds do a good job in scanning those items and will still be useful when you've run thru your slides and filmstrips.
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What is a good slide and negative scanner?

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