What is the best cable to use to connect my MacBook Pro to my LG HD TV

What is the best cable to use to connect my MacBook Pro to my LG HD TV?

Read the tv user manual to see what they recommend.

Similar Messages

What is the best way to secure and harden a Macbook Pro against unwanted surveillance?

What is the best way to secure and harden a Macbook Pro against unwanted surveillance? Tor, VPN, Little Snitch, etc. This would be for that latest version of Mavericks.

djbabybokchoy wrote:
Nothing specific, just speaking in general. Ex-wives, governments, bad guys...anyone really. I'm just looking to make my Mac a bit more private and secure, especially when on public networks.
Governments and ex's will/may have recourse to the legal process (or in the case of the Gov they can choose to ignore the legal system if they feel like it) when they want to see something of yours, good luck hardening your Mac against that. The best way to avoid the possibility of snooping over public networks is to avoid them but if you can't then Kappy's suggestion will help.
Strong passwords (everywhere) and don't use the same password in multiple locations.
If you really want to secure your home wireless use Mac address connection authentication, do not allow unknown Mac addresses to connect. It's much stronger than a WPA password alone.

What is the best way to run Sage on a MacBook Pro?

What is the best way to run Sage on a MacBook Pro? I am a first time Apple user.

There's a lot of Sage out thete so fill us in with information. If it runs on Windows then you'll need to create a partition on your mbp using boot camp and install Windows. So what is Sage for you?

What is the best external hard drive to backup my MacBook Pro?

What is the best external hard drive to backup my MacBook Pro?

The best is a Hitachi. This is basically the ONLY thing the "HD gurus" agree on.
Toshiba is nearly neck and neck in 2.5" USB external HD to Hitachi.
Here are "best for the money"....at bottom is BEST external USB HD
best options for the price, and high quality HD:
Quality 1TB drives are $50 per TB on 3.5" or $65 per TB on 2.5"
Perfect 1TB for $68
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Portable-Hard-Drive/dp/B005J7YA3W/ref=sr_1_ 1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379452568&sr=8-1&keywords=1tb+toshiba
Nice 500gig for $50. ultraslim and perfect
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Portable-External-Drive/dp/B009F1CXI2/ref=s r_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1377642728&sr=1-1&keywords=toshiba+slim+500gb
2 Terabytes, 2.5" and only $129
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Basics-Portable-HDTB120XK3CA/dp/B00ARJD56K
updated "design" casing cousin $119
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Connect-Portable-HDTC720XK3C1/dp/B00CGUMS48 /ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379182740&sr=1-4&keywords=2tb+toshiba
*This one is the BEST external HD available that money can buy:
$75
HGST Touro Mobile 1TB USB 3.0 External Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Touro-Mobile-External-HTOLMX3NA10001ABB/dp/B0062FZ2WS /ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1379185002&sr=1-1&keywords=hitachi+extern a l+hard+drive
Most storage experts agree on the Hitachi 2.5"

What's the best way to transfer an old 15" MacBook Pro to a new MacBook?

Hello.
My client will be buying a new MacBook soon (don't know which model yet) from his university. We are currently researching and planning ahead to minimize problems and prepare. I noticed there are multiple ways to transfer data from his old 15" MacBook Pro to the new one. What's the best and fastest way?
We only need to (manually?) copy data (lots of documents, photographs/photos., etc.) and not the programs (better to start clean!). Also, will old Mac Office 2008 work in the latest Mac OS X version (assuming it comes with it or maybe 10.7.x) or will he need to buy a new one? He also uses an iPhone 4S and iPod Touch (music mostly).
Thank you in advance.

Kappy wrote:
How to use Migration Assistant to transfer files from another Mac
If you only need to transfer files then connect the two via Firewire cable and use Target Disk Mode to access the old computer's hard drive from which you can select and copy the data you need.
Office 2008 will work, but it would be better to upgrade it to Office 2011. If you want a seamless changeover with respect to the iDevices, then you need to transfer the entire /Home/Library/Music/iTunes/, /Home/Library/Music/iTunes Playlists/, /Home/Library/Music/imm Media/ folders to the /Music/ folder of the new computer. Also copy over the /Home/Library/Preferences/com.apple.itunes.plist file to the /Home/Library Preferences/ folder on the new computer.
Be sure you de-authorize the old computer: iTunes Store- About authorization and deauthorization. Be sure to do this before any of the above is done.
Firewire, we don't have any of those cables and devices unless the new MacBook comes with it? It's all USB(2). Can we use USB (yes, it is slower)? He use it for digital cameras, Time Machine backups in Mac OS X 10.5.8, etc.
OK, I will tell my client to get a new Office 2011 then to avoid the mess. Hmm, can't we just synchronize our iDevices with iTunes to copy back to the new MacBook's new HDD?

What's the best way to wipe clean a 2006 macbook pro?

I have a 2006 15-inch MacBook Pro, and I'm looking to wipe it clean to speed it up and use it as a bedroom media player (front row/itunes and netflix). What's the best way to wipe it clean and start over?
Also, any suggestions on a media player to use? I hear XBMC and Plex are great, but I don't want it to power another TV, I am going to use it as the "TV" and all controlled by the (old, included, white) Apple remote.
Thanks for any and all help. I'm relatively adept with mac's so it doesnt have to be super simple, but hopefully it doesnt require coding or anything.

Back up all your files to external media. If you don't want this computer to access your iTunes material then "deauthorize" the computer in iTunes. Create a new account on your Mac with admin rights. Delete your old Mac account. Run disk utility and erase unused space.
If you have an iPhone then use the Remote app rather than the Apple remote clicker.
The new ApplyTV has some very good media center features. While using AirPlay you can also stream music thru the AppleTV.
If you're running Lion you made need to upgrade the memory to reduce page swaps.

What is the best overhead projector for a new 13" MacBook Pro

What is the best overhead projector for a new retina display macbook pro?

The key issue you should be worried about is what's the best projector for the intended room/environment/audience you will be projecting from/to. The Mac is just a content provider and will always exceed the resolution capabilities of all projectors in the market so will have to downgrade its output to suit their reduced capabilities.
Only thing you may want to make sure is that the projector have digital HDMI input. That way you can plug the Retina in with just a cable and not need to purchase any intervening adapter dongle prone to failure or misplacement.

What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for a MacBook Pro?

I bought my MacBook Pro in April of 2011 and it's been running fine ever since then. I do not keep too many files on my laptop and have everything backed up on a 4TB external hard drive. I have programs that keep my MacBook running smoothly and as fast as possible by clearing out unnecessary files. Recently, my MacBook has become slow and I now normally have to click on a button at least three times before the page loads or refresh the page. Sometimes I even have to force quit Safari and restart from the beginning just to load a web page. Programs will quit unexpectedly and downloading something takes ten times longer. I fear there may be something wrong with my MacBook and it might have a virus or something. What is the best antivirus/malware software to download? I'm leaning towards Norton Antivirus for Mac or Intego Mac Internet Security. Could someone please help me?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What are the best Color "Display Settings" for both my Macbook Pro Retina and Thunderbolt Display??

I have recently purchased a Thunderbolt Display for my MBPr (early 2013) and was wondering what were the best settings for both to obtain an equal color and graphic appearance. I want to have them identical for working on graphics and illustrations.
Thanks

I have the same laptop. There's nothing you really need to do to optimise the system. Perhaps just install the cuda drivers.
It runs premiere like a dream.

What is the best display to replace a 15" matt MacBook Pro?

Hi everyone this is my first post. I have a dilemma that I need assistance with. I have plans on buying the new Mac Book Pro after two happy years with my current 2.33 GHZ *15" matt* version. However, as most of you will be aware I won't be able to buy a 15" matt version for the 2008/9 version.
I spoke to Apple sales and I was told that for the type of computing I do both the 15" matt and the 17" matt and gloss versions would not be suitable, which leaves me very confused and I really don't want to go back to a PC.
Here's some information on how I use my Mac and for what purpose - *maybe you can advise me on the best option*. I currently spend 10 or more hours each day on the Mac for work. 95% of this time is spent using Safari, Mail and iWork. The rest is spent using Dreamweaver and editing photographs. The issue is that I work from home literally with the Mac balanced on my lap whilst slumped in the couch (comfy!), this is where I'm told the *17" will be too large to use on my lap and is really meant to be used on a desk* and the *glossy screen will cause headaches* for this length of time. I rarely travel with my Mac just to the odd meeting once or twice a month.
What do you think is my best option:
A. Macbook Pro 15" Glossy
B. Macbook Pro 17" Glossy
C. Macbook Pro 17" Matt
D. Buy a PC
Please help me decide...Paul

I'm currently slouched in a glider in front of the fire using my 17" MBP on my lap with no problems. I have the matte hi-resolution display and I see no reason why you couldn't do the same. I absolutely love the real estate of the 17".
Apple salespeople will tell you that MBP's are notebook computers rather than laptop computers every time and that they don't recommend them for laptop use. The main thing is to be sure you don't block air circulation and exhaust so that it won't overheat. Some people use a flat lapboard or lap desk. I rest mine on my thighs and knees so that the vents are free and air circulates freely in the middle.
Many photographers feel that a laptop display is not as good for editing photos as a desktop display, but I don't know to what extent that would apply to the latest screen technology. I do know that my old iBook display was awful for even the most primitive of editing. The one I have now is more than adequate for what I do. A professional might prefer a desktop display, but you can always add a separate external display if you decide you need one. If you are happy with your old MBP and it would do what you needed, I think there is no reason not to go with a new MBP.
There are huge debates over matte vs. glossy. I think I would lean towards the matte, since you work 10 hrs/day, and that is what you know you can do comfortably. I have heard a bit more about eyestrain issues with the glossy display, and that might be something to consider. It would at least be worth visiting a store where you can spend some time with the glossy and see how you feel about it. In the end, it will come down to personal preference.
Good luck!

What is the best way to upgrade my Early 2009 Macbook Pro 17"?

My Macbook hasn't been working well and I'm worried about things getting worse when going to Yosemite. My system has some hardware problems (CD drive doesn't work, needs a new battery), but I'm looking to upgrade the whole system now. I'd like to up the RAM to 8GB, put in a new hard drive (solid state?), etc...
Here is my EtreCheck-- I am looking for advice about what needs to be done to get my system back up and working? Thanks!
Problem description:
slow processing, freezing, crashing
EtreCheck version: 2.2 (132)
Report generated 5/4/15 6:27 PM
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
    MacBook Pro (17-inch, Early 2009) (Technical Specifications)
    MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro5,2
    1 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU: 2-core
    4 GB RAM
        BANK 0/DIMM0
            2 GB DDR3 1067 MHz ok
        BANK 1/DIMM0
            2 GB DDR3 1067 MHz ok
    Bluetooth: Old - Handoff/Airdrop2 not supported
    Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
    Battery: Health = Check Battery - Cycle count = 693 - SN = 9G91301DJ4M0A
Video Information: ℹ️
    NVIDIA GeForce 9400M - VRAM: 256 MB
        Color LCD 1920 x 1200
    NVIDIA GeForce 9600M GT - VRAM: 512 MB
System Software: ℹ️
    OS X 10.8.5 (12F45) - Time since boot: 1:50:40
Disk Information: ℹ️
    ST9500325AS disk0 : (500.11 GB)
        disk0s1 (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
        Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / : 499.25 GB (31.65 GB free)
        Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
    MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-868
USB Information: ℹ️
    Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
    Apple, Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
    Kensington      Kensington Expert Mouse
    Broadcom Corp BCM2046A
Configuration files: ℹ️
    /etc/hosts - Count: 15
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
    Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
        /Library/Application Support/VMware Fusion/kexts
    [loaded]    com.vmware.kext.vmci (3.0.0) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.vmware.kext.vmioplug (3.0.0) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.vmware.kext.vmnet (3.0.0) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.vmware.kext.vmx86 (3.0.0) [Click for support]
        /System/Library/Extensions
    [not loaded]    com.Avid.driver.AvidDX (5.6.0 - SDK 10.6) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.SafeNet.driver.Sentinel (7.5.2) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.PACESupport (5.8) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.PACESupport2 (5.8) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.master (5.8) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.seagate.driver.PowSecDriverCore (5.0.1) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.silabs.driver.SiLabsUSBDriver (1.0.1) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.sony.filesystem.prodisc_fs (2.0.0) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.sony.protocol.prodisc (2.0.0) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.squirrels.airparrot.framebuffer (3 - SDK 10.7) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.squirrels.driver.AirParrotSpeakers (1.7 - SDK 10.7) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    net.telestream.driver.TelestreamAudio (1.0.6 - SDK 10.6) [Click for support]
        /System/Library/Extensions/PACESupportFamily.kext/Contents/PlugIns
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.leopard (5.8 - SDK 10.4) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.panther (5.8 - SDK 10.-1) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.snowleopard (5.8 - SDK 10.6) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.paceap.kext.pacesupport.tiger (5.8 - SDK 10.4) [Click for support]
        /System/Library/Extensions/Seagate Storage Driver.kext/Contents/PlugIns
    [not loaded]    com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_4 (5.0.1) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_5 (5.0.1) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.seagate.driver.SeagateDriveIcons (5.0.1) [Click for support]
Startup Items: ℹ️
    PACESupport: Path: /Library/StartupItems/PACESupport
    Startup items are obsolete in OS X Yosemite
Problem System Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [failed]    com.apple.accountsd.plist [Click for details]
    [failed]    com.apple.coreservices.appleid.authentication.plist [Click for details]
Problem System Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [failed]    com.apple.wdhelper.plist [Click for details]
Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [not loaded]    com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.adobe.AdobeCreativeCloud.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.adobe.CS4ServiceManager.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.google.keystone.agent.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.hp.messagecenter.launcher.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Java-Updater.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.seagate.SeagateStorageGauge.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.teamviewer.teamviewer.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.teamviewer.teamviewer_desktop.plist [Click for support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.adobe.versioncueCS4.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.bombich.ccc.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.google.keystone.daemon.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.memeo.Memeod.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.oracle.java.Helper-Tool.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.paceap.eden.licensed.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.teamviewer.teamviewer_service.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.vmware.launchd.vmware.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    PACESupport.plist [Click for support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [not loaded]    com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.digitalrebellion.SoftwareUpdateAutoCheck.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.spotify.webhelper.plist [Click for support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
    RED Watchdog    Application (/Applications/REDCINE-X Professional/Utilities/RED Watchdog.app)
    iTunesHelper    UNKNOWN Hidden (missing value)
    Skype    Application (/Applications/Skype.app)
    Google Drive    Application (/Applications/Google Drive.app)
    AdobeResourceSynchronizer    Application Hidden (/Applications/Adobe Acrobat XI Pro/Adobe Acrobat Pro.app/Contents/Support/AdobeResourceSynchronizer.app)
    Google Chrome    Application Hidden (/Applications/Google Chrome.app)
    MemeoAgent    Application (/Library/Application Support/Memeo/Memeo Backup/Agents/MemeoAgent.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
    o1dbrowserplugin: Version: 5.41.0.0 - SDK 10.8 [Click for support]
    OVSHelper: Version: 1.0 [Click for support]
    OfficeLiveBrowserPlugin: Version: 12.3.1 [Click for support]
    Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 2.4.1.4 [Click for support]
    AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 2.0.0.0 - SDK 10.7 [Click for support]
    FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 11.1.102.55 [Click for support]
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1. Increase your RAM to the maximum 8 Gigs.
2. Replace your 5400 rpm hard drive with either a SSD or, if price is an obstacle, a hybrid 7200 rpm drive.
3. Buy a new battery, recommend the genuine Apple one.
4. Replace the DVD drive, if you need it.
Recommended part sources:
https://www.macsales.com
https://www.ifixit.com
http://www.powerbookmedic.com

What is the best case to get for my new Macbook Pro

I just bought a new 15" Pro over the phone last week and according to the tracking it should be here by Wednesday. I am extremely excited and cannot wait to get my new machine (my first mac). But my question is, I want to protect it, what is the the best option, best case, or best sleeve, in order to protect my new investment?
Thank you in advance for any comments.

I saw this today when researching the same thing
Mouse over the pictures for a side view.
http://www.radtech.us/Products/MacTruck.aspx
(no comp)

Can someone please tell me which cable is used to connect a Macbook Pro to a TV.

I want to connect my laptop to the tv but i don't know which cable is used and where to buy it..

On my 2011 Macbook Pro (and my sister's) mdp does pass audio.
I seem to recall that some (older?) mdp-hdmi adaptors wouldn't pass audio.
The moshi one I have here passes audio, and another one I have does too -- I think it's made by RocketFish.
I see that the one at Apple Store is moshi -- it lists the digital audio feature:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/HFQL2VC/A/moshi-mini-displayport-to-hdmi-adapt er-4k?fnode=385e4213fa359ae3df7c591e36b6…

What is the best advanced ip scanner free download for macbook pro?

I am curious.

Parallels Desktop 7 for Mac - #1 rated utility to run Windows and ...
VMware Fusion: Run Windows on Mac for Desktop Virtualization
Using Windows on your Mac via Boot Camp

What is the best format to use on an external hard drive so I can both back up my Macbook Pro and also put movies on it from another hard drive (PC)?

I am looking for a solution to whether if it is best to get two hard drives or one that can do two things that I want.
I am looking for a hard drive format that can both back up my 500GB Macbook Pro but I was also wondering if I could also put movies on it from another hard drive that is PC based. Would partitioning the hard drive work for this? I don't know what are the best formats to use.
If this is too hard it might just be easier having a separate 500GB hard drive for back up of my Mac and another bigger hard drive for the movies etc (the files are probably bigger than 4GB). Any help would be greatly appreciated as I need to make a decision soon!

Csound1 wrote:
Microsoft has not released the official exFAT file system specification, and a restrictive license from Microsoft is required in order to make and distribute exFAT implementations. Microsoft also asserts patents on exFAT which make it impossible to re-implement its functionality in a compatible way without violating a large percentage of them.[13] This renders the implementation, distribution, and use of exFAT as a part of free or open-source operating systems or of commercial software, for which the vendors could not obtain a license from Microsoft, not only technically difficult, but legally impossible in countries that recognize United States software patents.
Can't help with that, if one is using a Windows machine then they are subjected to their rules and control.
Limited support outside Windows and Mac OS X operating systems as of 2012, when most consumer electronic devices could only handleFAT12/FAT16/FAT32, rendering exFAT (and flash memory formats using it) impractical as a universal exchange format.
The OP said they plan to store movies on the external drive.
Many movies today are well over 4GB in size, thus exFAT has to be used and formatted on the PC, which the Mac can then read.
Older Windows NT versions up to Windows Vista without Service Pack 1 do not support exFAT.
Irrelevant, Microsoft provides a free download of exFAT for Windows XP, and Vista shouldn't be running on pre SP1 anyway.
Some distributions of Linux have begun to include support for exFAT. It is however, only available as a file system in user space, as it's not supported by the kernel.
Irrelevant, OP is using Windows and OS X, not Linux and if they did Linux can read the files at least and transfer, which is all they care about really.
Windows Vista is unable to use exFAT drives for ReadyBoost. Windows 7 removes this limitation, enabling ReadyBoost caches larger than 4 GiB.[14]
Irrelevant, the OP's is intending to use it as transfer drive between Mac's and Windows for movies.
The standard exFAT implementation only uses a single file allocation table and free space map. FAT file systems instead used alternating tables, as this allowed recovery of the file system if the media was ejected during a write (which occurs frequently in practice with removable media). The optional TexFAT component adds support for additional backup tables and maps, but may not be supported.
Some relevancy, but only exFAT can handle 4GB+ files between Mac's and PC's, so the need outweighs the possible problem.
The OP needs to follow the standard Windows practice of "safely removing hardware" before physically disconnecting the external drive. If a write is occurring, it won't allow disconnecting until the write is finished.
Support for up to 2,796,202 files per subdirectory only.[1][nb 3] Microsoft documents a limit of 65,534 files per sub-directory for their FAT32 implementation, but other operating systems have no special limit for the number of files in a FAT32 directory. FAT32 implementations in other operating systems allow an unlimited number of files up to the number of available clusters (that is, up to 268,304,373 files on volumes without long filenames).[nb 4]
Not a issue, only in extreme cases of a lot of small files. The OP plans to use it for movies which are usually large and take up a lot of space on the drive.
IMMO It looks like you just ran off and copied something to argue your point when all the points are basically irrelevant.
There is only one format that can easily share 4GB sized files between Mac's and PC's without further complications.
It's ALSO possible to install MacDrive on the PC and format the drive on the Mac HFS+, but I didn't recommend that because I know it's a hassle just like third party NTFS writing software is a hassle on Mac's.
If you so anti-Microsoft format, then you must know Paragon has to pay a license fee to Microsoft for using the NTFS format.
At least with exFAT there is no fee to Redmond, at least not yet.

What is the best cable to use to connect my MacBook Pro to my LG HD TV

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