What is the best Cloud solution for all your photos?

You can't put all your iPhoto library in iCLoud, correct? So how can I put all my photos in a cloud? I'm a little hesitant to put all my photos in Dropbox or Google Drive as then my other computers will fill up with the same photos AND I don't trust non Apple products for my photos. Can anyone tell me how they are doing it please? At the moment I feel ok with my external backups (I've got 3 of them) as well as backing up in Time Machine but just wanted to know how others do it.
Thanks

You can't put all your iPhoto library in iCLoud, correct?
Correct.
So how can I put all my photos in a cloud?
I use Flickr and have more than 50k photos there. You can decide what photos - if any - you want public and which you want to have available only to those whom you invite to see them.

Similar Messages

What's the best cloud solution for Aperture photos?

I use aperture and looking for a cloud storage solution to free up space? Interested in Fanfair, Smugmug and Dropbox. I plan to keep using Aperture for recent photos but want to be able to upload (and remove from my hard drive) older photos to free up space?
Any suggestions on product and workflow?

The problem with multiple libraries is that they are inconvenient. Only one can be open and searched at a time, so if you're looking for that photo from your trip to NY, well was that in 95? 96? Maybe it was 94... And as an Aperture Library is pretty much unlimitied in size, I don't see a compelling argument for a library-per-year approach.
Having two libraries - one on the internal and one on the external - seems like a lot more convenient, but I would do that slightly differently.
On the External I would have one complete library. This makes backing up very easy. Back that up and you have everything backed up. From that I would export as a library the material you want to take on the road with you. If you import then ideally import to the one main library, of if not, then you can move material from the internal to the external library using the export as Library/ import library function. So, at all times the internal library is a sub-set of the main one.
I'm wary of Dropbox and other cloud solutions for backing up an entire Library. Why? These are very large databases. I've seen people complain that restoring a library can take days simply because these guys shape their traffic and you're downloading massive amounts of data.
Further, many cloud services store the files on inappropriate disk formats, and this can lead to damage to the Library.
So, my suggestion would be as follows:
One full size Library on an external
That backed up to another external.
Ideally, backed up to a second external - this lives off-site at your workplace, a relatives house, even in your car.
On your internal a subset of your main library.
As for backing up Photos to the cloud, that's quite simple. Services like Flickr and SmugMug - and there are many others - are there and you can upload all your photos, they remain accessible from any computer anywhere in the world.

What's the best storage solution for a large iLife? RAID? NAS?

I'm looking for an affordable RAID storage solution for my Time Machine, iTunes Library, iMovie videos, and iPhoto Library. To this point I've been doing a hodgepodge of external hard drives without the saftey of redundancy and I've finaly been bitten with HD failures. So I'm trying to determine what would be the best recommendation for my scenario. Small Home Office for my wife's business (just her), and me with all our media. I currentlty have a mid-2010 Mac Mini (no Thunderbolt), she has an aging 2007 iMac and 2006 MacBook Pro (funny that they're all about the same benchmark speed). We have an AppleTV (original), iPad2 and two iPhone 4S's.
1st Question: Is it better to get a RAID and connect it to my Airport Extreme Base Station USB port as a shared disk? OR to connect it directly to my Mac Mini and share through Home Sharing? OR Should I go with a NAS RAID?
2nd Question: Simple is Better. Should I go with a Mac Mini Server and connect drives to it? (convert my Mac Mini into a server) or Should I just get one of those nice all-in-one 4-bay RAID drive solutions that I can expand with?
Requirements:
1. Expandable and Upgradeable. I don't want something limited to 2TB drives, but as drives get bigger and cheaper I want to easily throw one in w/o concerns.
2. Simple integration with Time Machine and my iLife: iTunes, iMovie, iPhoto. If iTune's Home Sharing feature is currently the best way of using my media across multiple devices then why mess with it? I see "DLNA certified" storage on some devices and wonder if that would just add another layer of complexity I don't need. One more piece to make compatible.
3. Inexpensive. I totally believe in the "You Get What You Pay For" concept. But I also realize sometimes I'm buying marketing, not product. I imagine that to start, I'm going to want a diskless system (because of $$$) to throw all my drives into, and then upgrade bigger drives as my data and funds grow.
4. Security. I don't know if its practical, but I like the idea of being able to pop two drives out and put them in my safe and then pop them back in once a week for the backup/mirroring. I like this idea because I'm concerned that onsite backup is not always the safest. Unfortunately those cloud based services aren't designed for Terabytes of raw family video, or an entire media library that isn't wholey from the iTunes Store. I can't be the only one facing this challenge. Surely there's an affordable way to keep a safe backup for the average Joe. But what is it?
5. Not WD. I've had bad experiences with Western Digital drives, and I loathe their consumer packaged backup software that comes preloaded on their external drives. They are what I meant when I say you get what you pay for. Prettily packed garbage.
6. Relatively Fast. I have put all my media on an external drive before (back when it fit on one drive) and there's noticeable spool-up hang time. Thunderbolt's nice and all, but so new that its not easily available across devices, nor is it cheap. eSata is not really an option. I love Firewire but I'm getting the feeling that Apple has made it the red-headed step-child of connections. USB 3.0 looks decent, but like eSata, Apple doesn't recognize it exists. Where does that leave us? Considering this dilemma I really liked Seagate's GoFlex external drives because it meant I could always buy a new base and still be compatible. But that only works with single drives. And as impressive as Seagate is, we can't expect them to consistently double drive sizes every two years like they have been -cool as that may be.
So help me out without getting too technical. What's the best setup? Is it Drobo? Thecus? ReadyNAS? Seagate's BlackArmor? Or something else entirely?
All comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I am currently using WD 2TB Thunderbolt hard drive for my iTunes, which i love and is works great. i am connected directly to my Mac Book Pro. I am running low on Memory and thinking of buying a bigger Hard drive. My question is should I buy 6TB thunderbolt HD or 6TB NAS drive to work solely for iTunes. I have home sharing enabled for my Apple TV
I also have my time capsule connected just as back up only.

What's the best overall solution for managing books and eBooks?

I have a lot of eBooks (in .mobi and PDF format). I'd like to find a solution (software/system/scheme) such that
1) The actual content syncs to several devices (Mac, iPad, iPhone) and can be read even when network is not present.
2) There is a searchable, convenient database of what books are there.
3) The database can be added to by barcode scanning the ISBN tag
4) Some entries in the database are linked to full content. That is, I'd enter books that I have in electronic format, but also books from my library that exist only in paper form.
I'm looking for a total solution to manage all my books - list them all, plus enable ready access to the content for the ones I have. I'd like to have it sync to several devices. What's the best system - anyone have it set up like this? What's the best reader, database app, and way to hang it all together (with iTunes?). Thanks in advance,
Mike

I am currently using WD 2TB Thunderbolt hard drive for my iTunes, which i love and is works great. i am connected directly to my Mac Book Pro. I am running low on Memory and thinking of buying a bigger Hard drive. My question is should I buy 6TB thunderbolt HD or 6TB NAS drive to work solely for iTunes. I have home sharing enabled for my Apple TV
I also have my time capsule connected just as back up only.

What is the best virus protection for all my Apple products?

I have seen ads for Norton 360, McAfee and others that offer virus protection for all your devices. I am looking for protection for:
Mac Pro
MacBook Pro
Mac Mini
iPads
iPhones
If you know what is the best for a smooth running system and providing protection please let me know. My system is acting flaky (Mac Pro) and Wanted to start with Virus protections.

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is foremost a problem of human behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It's as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best way to get all my photos from my G4 to my iMac.

The export feature does not grab the originals and does not export the movie clips. Yet I don't want to just paste the old library folder to my new machine because the old library had gotten corrupted at one time and I don't want to risk that.

Well first of all I did have a corrupt library on my G4. I followed instructions that someone gave me and created a new library and it's performing OK although some of the dates are not correct.
Don't worry about the dates you can correct them in iPhoto 08.
I still have the corrupted library on my G4's hard drive. I left it there in case I did not get all of my 5500 pics.
But did you get all the pics? That's really a Yes or No question. If it's Yes, then we can rule this library out of the confusion.
So I would like to possibly repair the old one and add the pics from the new library to it that I've taken since a year ago.
Huh? You have a working new library with (we hope) all the pics from the damaged one and yet you want to go backwards to the old one, repair it and then add the pics you've taken since? Is there a reason you want to do this?
I also bought a imac 24 intel and I wanted to get all my pics onto it without bringing any corruptions with the pics.
Okay, but you have a good working library with all the old pics and the new pics. So move that to the new machine. I don't understand the issue?
So there is a good bit going on. It's kind of confusing what with upgrading and exporting and importing and backing up and duplicates etc. It would not be that hard if I had 500 pics from a year or 2.
Okay, well here's a tip. Forget about updating the g4, either iPhoto or the operating System. Just focus on getting all your photos into the new machine. Then worry about that.
Regards
TD

What's the best RAID solution for my iMac / MacBook?

I think it's time I invested in a larger backup hard drive, and for data security I'm looking at 2-drive RAID devices. Is the Lacie 2Big Network good for this purpose? http://www.lacie.com/uk/products/product.htm?pid=10953
What's the reliability and speed really like on such devices?
I have a 1Gbit switch that I could attach a network storage drive to, and the idea of having a public ftp area on it sounds quite cool and useful, anyone know just how secure it is?
What about replacing drives in these things - is it just a case of taking existing hard drive out of a caddy and putting a new one in? (same type, size and speed, presumably)
At work we have some dinosaur Dell servers that have big hardware RAID arrays in them, I've only just started using them myself but can see how versatile the concept is.. are there any drawbacks to having a small home hardware RAID setup?
Thanks!

If you are not limited to NAS, take a look at CalDigit for a great eSATA/FW800/FW400/USB RAID 1/0 external drive.
http://www.caldigit.com/CalDigit_VR/ , we will get one soon.
AFAIK, the CalDigitVR connects using either eSATA, FireWire 800, 400, and USB2.0. The RAID is configurable as performance (RAID 0), protected (RAID 1), or SPAN. The CalDigit's products are used by serious individuals, photographers, movie studios, etc. and are as bulletproof as you can get.
Everything is swappable (including the fan assembly) and can be daisy chained through FireWire port when out of capacity. If know you are using iMac, but if you have a MacPro, you can use their SATA kit to speed up to 200 MB/s !!!.
In the past, RAID protection doesn't come cheap but neither does true peace-of-mind. There are other solutions to be sure, but none offer the longevity and flexibility of the Caldigit products. And the best part is CalDigitVR 500GB starts at only $399.

What is the best storage solution for the new Mac Pro

Hi All,
With limited funds when purchasing the new Mac Pro, I'm starting to look at storage for music/pictures/video etc - I'm thinking of storing this data externally and connecting via Thunderbolt or Firewire or USB3 to access the data... Not sure what type of storage to use, upgrading to 1TB PCIe-based flash seems excessive for costs and I would like at least 2TB, anyone have any suggestions?
What are the alternatives for storage... (single disk Raid) I've recently had to replace my internal WD hard drive (lost everything) and the backup time capsule failed, again knackered disk (looks like WD format error with Maverick OS bug), don't want to format them just incase..
With the new Mac Pro coming with 256GB PCIe-based flash storage, I'm reluctant to upgrade the storage because of costs and would like some redudancy when it comes to storage.
Any suggestions?
Many thanks
Russ

landing page at OWC for Thunderbolt products.
Helios enclosure (the new dual-slot Helios PCIe chassis) and moving various hard drives into Thunderbolt cases (in time) but mainly into my favorite USB3 hard drive enclosure.
For those without eSATA enclosures, a simple eSATA to USB3 adapter might do the trick.
USB3 is plenty fast to house two hard drives.
If you can, I'd try to order with 500GB to get started and have more room for system and default for scratch or even for Aperture/iPhoto or Lightroom.
Always take the precaution and zero a drive before use. Want a solid enterprise ideal for RAID, then look no further than Seagate Constellation series. 128MB cache doesn't hurt and fine for RAID5, NAS or whatever you want.
There should be retail PCIe-SSD products in 2014.
Large storage, http://macperformanceguide.com/topic-thunderbolt.html

What is the best macbbok pro for video and photo editing

I am looking at getting a Macbook Pro but not sure about how to configure it. What are the advantages of the 13 vs 15 and the dual core i7 vs quad core i7?

It is the GPU that is important. All the CPU's will be fast enough. If you can affords it, the 15" with the NVIDIA GPU is the best.
Ciao.

What is the best MDM Solution for pushing individualized app packages?

Hello. I work for an education company, and we have a program offering students individualized iPad-based courses using apps catered to the individual students' needs. This means that every device has a different and constantly changing app profile. We need the ability to centrally purchase and distribute apps to our deployed devices, but in such a way that each iPad is receiving it's own unique update.
So far I have looked into free Meraki and paid Casper Suite by JAMF Software. The reocurring theme seems to be that instead of an interface with the device at the center, it is each individual app that the interfaces focus on, leaving the user to have to choose which devices the single app be sent to. It would be great to have a program where your device is displayed and you choose which apps to send to it...
Also, it must work in conjunction with the VPP.
Thanks!

Airwatch is probably your best bet, and has a free trial. You could set up device groups, with each group really being an individual student, and deploy apps specific to that group/student.

What is the best set up for video editing?

What is the best computer? The best software? The best external storage? The best ram? 3D editing? Everything!!!!!!
Running full HD and 720p at 60 fps videos. Clips ranging from a few seconds to 10-30 minutes.
Cost isn't an issue.
What is the best set up, not the most excessive. If it doesn't need to be there or it isn't greatly needed I would like to know. This is looking at the production aspects, not the camera and such. What is the best plug in for slow motion? Pros and Cons of the set up?
I would greatly appriciate everyones input in this. Thank you so much.

That is a hard question to answer.. Nothing is best for everyone... However if i am to generalize it I would put it this way.. If you want to cut everything from a short promos to hollywood pictures..
A high end windows pc (only cause mac pro hasn't been updated in ages)
Avid Media Composer with Nitrus DX
Two monitors
Broadcast monitor
HD Deck
pimping 5.1 speakers
A good mixer
You are looking at over 70,000 or 80,000, could even approach even more.. HD decks run atleast 15k.
If price is not an issue then there you go....
However this is not realistic for most people nor best solution by no means... I run a macbook pro with Avid (as primary) Final Cut 7, Final Cut X (for practice, didn't have to use it for a job yet), and Premiere (just in case)
I am a final cut child who grew up on it and love it however everything I am doing in last few years is on AVID...
Have a second monitor..
I am very portable and rest of the gear I usually get where ever I work at.. I am looking into getting a good broadcast monitor connected with AJA thunderbolt..
Like I said this is very open question, there is no (BEST) it all depends what you will be doing.. If you get AVID (which can do everything, however is cluncky as **** and counter intuitive) but you are only cutting wedding videos and short format stuff, it would be an overkill galore.. Just get FCP X in that case... Simple,easy, one app...
Be more specific and you will get clearer answers..

What's the best protective shield for my 3GS?

Hi Everyone,
Sorry to bother, but I just got a new iPhone 3GS and I'm wondering what's the best protector to put on the phone. I understand the 3GS has a new type of "coating" on the screen so I don't want to do any damage to it. I also heard the 3GS has these proximity sensors so I don't want to get a case that will interfere with that. Anyhow, I wanted to get an Invisible Shield, a full body one, but wanted to make sure I don't do damage to the phone. I've read the forums and it seems there is no definitive answer on whether or not the Invisible Shield is the best one. Any iPhone experts know what's the best protective shield for the 3GS? And will the Invisible Shield do any damage to the screen or coating on the new 3GS? I talked to a person at Apple and they didn't think it would do any damage, but to be honest, she didn't sound as knowledgeable as I would like. I'm sorry for being paranoid. Can you guys chime in?
Thanks!

The reason for no definite answer is that it matters what YOU are looking for in a case or protective screen cover...
To answer your shield question...the shield product itself will not damage the phone and that coating is not to prevent scratches...it's to help prevent fingerprints...since you plan to put a screen cover on then that coating doesn't really matter...HOWEVER, the way that the shield can harm the phone is IF it's not properly installed by YOU...since the design of that product calls for a liquid solution agent to be used to adhere the cover to the case of the phone, others have gone overboard with that liquid and then ended up with water damaged phones due to the faulty install...If you install properly then it's not an issue
Personally I used a full shield cover on a previous phone and hated it...so again it's all up to your taste...
What I currently have now is the simple Apple sold Anti-Glare screen cover you can buy two to a pack for 15.00 at Apple store...I have used since first Gen iPhone and loved it...
I have a Case-Mate leather hard plastic case but am not thrilled with it since the edges are raised around the edges of the screen and sometimes prevent me from hitting a button right up against the screen edge...so I don't use it much...
Other covers made by Case-Mate like the Barely There cover don't have that problem...so you really need to shop around and see what case you like and what you dislike...
Cases specifically sold to be compatible with 3GS will not interfere with either the proximity or any other sensor on the phone face...

I've been using a flip video camera since 2009 and all of my videos are in the flipshare library. What is the best way to burn all these videos to a DVD that will play on my DVD player/tv?

I've been using a flip video camera since 2009 and all of my videos are in the flipshare library. What is the best way to burn all these videos to a DVD that will play on my DVD player/tv? The flipshare library is taking up too much space on my Macbook and I wanted to delete these videos once they were all tranferred to DVDs.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Purplehiddledog wrote:
I do backup with iCloud. I can't wait until the new iMac is available so that I can once again have my files in more than 1 location without needing to rely solely on the cloud.
I also rely on iTunes and my MacBook and Time Machine as well as backing up to iCloud. I know many users know have gone totally PC free, but I chose to use iCloud merely as my third backup.
I assume that the restore would result in my ability to open Pages and Numbers and fix the problem with deleting apps, but this would also mean that if my Numbers documents still exist solely within the app and are just not on iCloud for some reason that they would be gone forever. Is that right?
In a word, yes. In a little more detail.... When you restore from an iCloud backup, you must erase the device and start all over again. There is no other way to access the backup in iCloud without erasing the device. Consequently, you are starting all over again. Therefore, it would also be my assumption that Pages and Numbers will work again and that the deleting apps issues would be fixed as well.
If the documents are not in the backup, and you do not have a backup elsewhere, the documents could be gone forever.

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

It is now confirmed that iWeb, and iDVD, has been discontinued by Apple. This is evidenced by the fact that new Macs are shipping with iLife 11 installed but without iWeb and iDVD.
On June 30, 2012 MobileMe will be shutdown. However, iWeb will still continue to work but without the following:
Features No Longer Available Once MobileMe is Discontinued:
◼ Password protection
◼ Blog and photo comments
◼ Blog search
◼ Hit counter
◼ MobileMe Gallery
All of these features can be replaced with 3rd party options.
I found that if I published my site to a folder on my hard drive and then uploaded with a 3rd party FTP client subscriptions to slideshows and the RSS feed were broken. If I published directly from iWeb to the FPT server those two features continued to work correctly.
There's another problem and that's with iWeb's popup slideshows. Once the MMe servers are no longer online the popup slideshow buttons will not display their images.
Click to view full size
However, Roddy McKay and I have figured out a way to modify existing sites with those slideshows and iWeb itself so that those images will display as expected once MobileMe servers are gone. How to is described in this tutorial: #26 - How to Modify iWeb So Popup Slideshows Will Work After MobileMe is Discontinued.
It now appears that the iLife suite of applications offered on disc is now a discontinued product and the remaining supported iApps will only be available thru the App Store from now on. However, the iLife 11 boxed version that is still available at the online Apple Store (Store button at the top of the page) and those still on the shelves of retailers will include iWeb and iDVD. Those two apps were listed in small, gray text on the iLife 11 box that I bought.
Personally, if I didn't already have a copy I would purchase one to have it for reinstallation purposes if ever needed.
This might be of some interest to you at this time: Life After MobileMe.
OT

HT1338 What is the best online storage for photos. Specifically one that allows the original image quality to be downloaded should your hard storage goes belly up

What is the best online storage for photos. Specifically one that allows the original image quality to be downloaded should your hard storage goes belly up

I'd put them on an external hard drive(s) and burn them to a DVD as well (at least 2 - 3 copies on different drives/media); I prefer having control and a local solution instead of relying on a server and the possibility of someone (who shouldn't be) downloading my work.

What is the best Cloud solution for all your photos?

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