What is the best for me ? ?

Hello,
I'll buy a Mac soon and i'm confused as to macbook pro or macbook air ... i'm in college now and work with Photoshop and 3D max .. make some short movie .. So what's the best for me ?

You should also ask this in the MacBook Pro and MacBook Air forums. This is the forum for the white and black plastic MacBooks that were discontinued in 2010. You should also post this question there to increase your chances of getting an answer.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_air

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I did mean Adobe Ultra or previously Serious Magic Ultra. I have no personal experience with Primatte, but have heard very positive reports. For relatively simple work with a good green/blue screen, which is properly lighted and not too much wrinkles, Ultra is easy, fast and effective, but it pays to have a look at the tutorials on how to setup a proper key. When you have rather bad lighting on the screen, Keylight is better and adds more flexibility, but is harder to master than Ultra. It also lacks the MSL (Master Set Libraries) capabilities of Ultra, but if you have never used Ultra before, you may be hard pressed to find any of the MSL's from the Serious Magic era around. Adobe has apparently stopped selling those, apart from the basic one which is included with Ultra. Maybe Karl Soule or Mark Mapes, previous Serious Magicians, can shed some light on the future of Ultra in the Adobe portfolio.

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Also read this: http://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/usermanual/#chapter=26%26section=1 %26hash=apple_ref:doc:uid:TempBookID-ReplacedWhenAssociatingWithMessierRevision- 44032IMP-1008859
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http://xml.apache.org/xmlbeans/

What is the best virus protection for all my Apple products?

I have seen ads for Norton 360, McAfee and others that offer virus protection for all your devices. I am looking for protection for:
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Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is foremost a problem of human behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It's as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What are the best Earbud Headphones for $50 or Le

Hey i was wondering what the best earbud headphones were for less than $50 shipped. I want a design like EP-630 Or the CX-300 's. But what are the BEST for my price range? CX's look good but are there anything better?
Thanks,Matt

I think you can get the CX cheaper than $50 shipped. This website rates them all.
http://www.headphone.com/products/headphones/earbud/

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Product name: HP Pavilion g6 Notebook PC
Product number: C1S92EA#ABU
Windows 8 64-bit
Hi, i`d like to buy a new battery but i want to know what is the best for my laptop.
I bought this laptop two weeks ago and my battery stopped charging (593553-001, Li-ion 4300mAh, 10.8V)
Thank you

Hello kolyu91,
I understand that your battery is not charging.
Since you laptop is so new, I wouldn’t spend money on a new battery.
Your laptop should still be under warranty and HP will replace the battery.
Here is a link to a number to call HP.
Let me know how everything goes.

K8neo 4 socket 939 cpu 3800 x2 amd what is the best hard disk

k8neo 4 socket 939 cpu 3800 x2 amd what is the best hard disk
for this confy
i know maxtor has more problem
so i ask to you
what is the best hard disk 250 300 gb ?
sata sata 2 ?
i read about in some site but i can understand what is the best for this confy
thank
my english is Lol

When we are talking about Quality and Performance the choice is:
http://www.wdraptorx.com

What are the best settings to make a DVD?

Hi!!!
I want to make a DVD. I am using Adobe Premiere Pro CS4. My video uses a image (i havent chosen the width x height yet because i do not know what is the best for picture quality on DVD, any advice?). I also use text which is made by clicking on Add Titles in Premiere Pro. Also i have a mp3 which plays throughout. (There is actually no moving video, just an image still, and the text I add which changes every few seconds)
My question is: For optimal picture and sound quality on DVD, what are the best settings to begin the project with? (i.e. PAL? HD?, etc). Second question is: For optimal picture and sound quality on DVD, what settings should i have when exporting? (i.e. Format: MPEG2? MPEG2-DVD? H.264? ect, Preset: 1440 x 1080i? PAL DV High Quality? etc)
Note: after exporting the file, i will send the master to a DVD duplicating company who will put the file onto DVD for me.
Many, many thanks!

To give you just a bit more background, for DVD-Video (well, if it's burned, it's officially DVD-ROM, but you get the picture), the Transcoding will be done to MPEG-2. For the best Audio, I would stick with PCM/WAV, which will be slightly larger, but with better fidelity. Note that with BD, you have some other choices, but fewer for DVD-Video. Also, even though MPEG Audio was optional in PAL-land, it is falling out of favor. The two choices are DD AC3 (a flavor of MPEG), and PCM/WAV, which will give you the best Audio.
With Adobe Dynamic Link, you do not need to be too concerned with the Transcoding yet. In Encore, you can choose the parameters for the Transcoding, or leave it set to Automatic and Encore will calculate the space on the disc, and come up with a very good Transcode setting. If you decide that you want to do those settings yourself, please spend some time on the Internet reading about "bit-budgeting." There are also 3rd party Transcoders, that some feel are superior to those used in the Adobe products. There are several recommendations in this forum. Again, you will want to study bit-budgeting first.
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What is the Best Safari Version for OS 10.9.5 Maverick on a MacBookPro, 2.4Ghz, 8 GB Mem.?

What is the best Safari Version for OS 19.9.5 Maverick on a MacBook Pro. 2.4 Ghz, with 8 gb memory?

The best version for Mavericks, in fact the only version, is an integral part of OS X. In other words you already have it.
Its version number is 7.1.5.
Keep OS X up to date: Update OS X and App Store apps on your Mac - Apple Support

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

I am a new mac user and I switch to mac due to the graphics that it brings. I do website in pc and I heard iweb is the best.NOW i heard that iweb will be discontinue. so what is the best application there for website using MAC OSX lion?

It is now confirmed that iWeb, and iDVD, has been discontinued by Apple. This is evidenced by the fact that new Macs are shipping with iLife 11 installed but without iWeb and iDVD.
On June 30, 2012 MobileMe will be shutdown. However, iWeb will still continue to work but without the following:
Features No Longer Available Once MobileMe is Discontinued:
◼ Password protection
◼ Blog and photo comments
◼ Blog search
◼ Hit counter
◼ MobileMe Gallery
All of these features can be replaced with 3rd party options.
I found that if I published my site to a folder on my hard drive and then uploaded with a 3rd party FTP client subscriptions to slideshows and the RSS feed were broken. If I published directly from iWeb to the FPT server those two features continued to work correctly.
There's another problem and that's with iWeb's popup slideshows. Once the MMe servers are no longer online the popup slideshow buttons will not display their images.
Click to view full size
However, Roddy McKay and I have figured out a way to modify existing sites with those slideshows and iWeb itself so that those images will display as expected once MobileMe servers are gone. How to is described in this tutorial: #26 - How to Modify iWeb So Popup Slideshows Will Work After MobileMe is Discontinued.
It now appears that the iLife suite of applications offered on disc is now a discontinued product and the remaining supported iApps will only be available thru the App Store from now on. However, the iLife 11 boxed version that is still available at the online Apple Store (Store button at the top of the page) and those still on the shelves of retailers will include iWeb and iDVD. Those two apps were listed in small, gray text on the iLife 11 box that I bought.
Personally, if I didn't already have a copy I would purchase one to have it for reinstallation purposes if ever needed.
This might be of some interest to you at this time: Life After MobileMe.
OT

I have three iPhone 4 models purchased in late 2010 that all share the same iTunes account (apps, music, etc), but I can only update the software on one of the three iPhones. What is the best solution to manage these devices for software updates, apps?

I have three iPhone 4 models purchased in late 2010 (for my family) that all share the same iTunes account for access to apps and music, but each phone/user still has his/her custom contact list, email accts, and select lists of apps and music from the one iTunes acct library. The problem is I can only update the software on one of the three iPhones – the primary phone I used to setup the iTunes acct. What is the best solution to manage these devices for software updates, apps? This is probably a common problem with families wanting to share apps and music without realizing the issues created by this approach. As it stands today... the first (primary) iPhone associated with the iTune acct has been updated with the latest software version 5.1.1 and sync'd up with all the apps, music, etc from the one iTune acct, while the other two iPhones are still running on the original software version 4.0.2 and are experiencing problems now. I was advised by AT&T back in January that it would be necessary to setup separate iTunes accts for the second and third iPhones in order to receive system updates. The problem would be how to keep all the apps, etc from being deleted off the second and third phones that were originally loaded from the one iTunes acct. Since this AT&T advice was prior to iCloud coming out, would iCloud be a better solution or at least part of the solution? I really don't yet understand how iCloud works. Hopefully, someone out there can help me?? Please?

I have three iPhone 4 models purchased in late 2010 (for my family) that all share the same iTunes account for access to apps and music, but each phone/user still has his/her custom contact list, email accts, and select lists of apps and music from the one iTunes acct library. The problem is I can only update the software on one of the three iPhones – the primary phone I used to setup the iTunes acct. What is the best solution to manage these devices for software updates, apps? This is probably a common problem with families wanting to share apps and music without realizing the issues created by this approach. As it stands today... the first (primary) iPhone associated with the iTune acct has been updated with the latest software version 5.1.1 and sync'd up with all the apps, music, etc from the one iTune acct, while the other two iPhones are still running on the original software version 4.0.2 and are experiencing problems now. I was advised by AT&T back in January that it would be necessary to setup separate iTunes accts for the second and third iPhones in order to receive system updates. The problem would be how to keep all the apps, etc from being deleted off the second and third phones that were originally loaded from the one iTunes acct. Since this AT&T advice was prior to iCloud coming out, would iCloud be a better solution or at least part of the solution? I really don't yet understand how iCloud works. Hopefully, someone out there can help me?? Please?

What is the best way to use a SSD for Photoshop/photo editing?

Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: http://pastebin.com/J9byczse
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet since I'd like some advice first.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically...
1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD?
2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both?
3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD?
4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
Thanks for any help!

If you have an SSD you can run the cache and programs on the same drive. However, many recommend a scratch disk size of 100-200 gigs so that will not work here unless you opt for a larger SSD. Otherwise an internal spinner is recommended that does not contain the program files, or idealy any other files that may want to get acessed at same time (only one read/write head per drive).
With 32 gig of RAM you may not need the constant use of the scratch drive unless working on large images with lots of layers. So see no advantage to moving folder to SSD for temp work environment.
From what I read the new crop of SSD do not have the wear problems of the older versions.

What is the best way for a family to set up apple ID's and icloud?

My partner and I have separate apple id's and own a mac book, ipad, 2 iphones and apple tv. What's the best way to set it all up so we can access everything on each device? Can we merge our ID's into one and transfer all our payments? We just registered for icloud and used a new shared email address, but still have our separate apple ID's. We have separate email addresses, calendars and notes that we would prefer to keep separate. It's really just our itunes purchases, music and photos that we want to be able to share. Thanks in advance! Cheers, Nicky

They will be able to download everything that was bought with their Apple ID. If they all shared an ID then they switched to their own ID they won't be able to use any apps or music bought with another Apple ID. As I explained in my previous response. There is only one way to share apps and content across multiple Apple ID's and that is home share. So, NO there isn't a "Smooth" way to do it.

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