What is the best Macbook for me? (Music producer)

Hello.
I'm looking for the perfect Macbook for which I can use for recording vocals and producing instrumental beats. It is highly important that the music software, which I use, will run smoothly and quickly.
Thanks a lot and I hope you can help!

This is not the place, it is the Pages forum.
Go to an Apple Store and try what is available, it is not a big range. Any model would do the job, all you need is good external storage.
Peter

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What is the best MacBook for a UNI student studying design (also making videos, websites, etc)?

I'm starting university next year and am wanting to study design. I also make videos and websites and what not on the side. I've never had a Mac before, I have an iPhone but have never owned or used a MacBook but I hear they're the best for graphics, etc. Which MacBook out of the all would be the best for designing and video making, etc?
Thanks!

I have a late 2011 MBP with 16GB of RAM and a 512GB SSD - it may not be as fast as the most expensive Retina model, but it's pretty close. I use the Adobe CS6 Design & Web Premium suite but I'm not much into video editing. However, were I you...
I'd get the top-of-the-line non-Retina MacBook Pro and opt to spend the extra $100US on the HD antiglare screen. You can upgrade the RAM to 16GB yourself and, if you decide that the drive that comes with it is just too slow, you can always upgrade to a SSD. I'd also look at a good external monitor for your 'home' studio - I have the Apple Thunderbolt Display (which I've not even taken out of the box yet) but I'd ask for recommendations for a less expensive monitor if you don't need all the extra ports on the ATD.
That's my recommendation - video editing can take a toll on the CPU and, particularly, the hard drive. That's why I recommend the fastest processor you can get and the possible move to a SSD.
Good luck,
Clinton

What's the best MacBook for basic graphic editing?

Hi there,
I've been saving up to finally get a MacBook after having a pro during university (stupidly it got soaked in my bag during a thunderstorm and didn't have any insurance on it). However, I'm trying to save as much money as I can so can't afford the high end laptops.
All I need for the MacBook to do is run the following programs without it becoming slow in the long run:
Adobe Photoshop CC
Adobe Dreamweaver CC
Adobe InDesign CC
Microsoft Office Home & Business
The basic system requirements for the Adobe CC programs are:
Multicore Intel processor with 64-bit support
Mac OS X v10.7, v10.8, or v10.9
2GB of RAM
3.2GB of available hard-disk space
1280x1024 display with 16-bit video card
QuickTime 7.6.6 software required for HTML5 media playback
All I need it for is templating and editing newsletters as well as creative posters/flyers/brochures.
I'm deciding whether I should just get the basic 13-inch MacBook Air, 13-inch Macbook Pro (with Retina display) or 2.5GHz Mac mini? Bear in mind that I'll have to purchase the Micrsoft Office program (approx. £157 on Amazon) & get a screen/keyboard/mouse with the Mac Mini).
I have around £1,000 to spend and really unsure as to what to buy.
Please note, I am not interested in buying a Windows equivelant (as I cannot stand Windows 8/8.1).
Thanks!

Any of those Macs will meet the basic specs for Office and Adobe. The real question is how you configure what you buy, based on how you are going to use the programs. The system requirements listed are definitely basic. They are about as basic as saying that you could buy a 2-seater Smart Car as your transportation: You could, but you'd be very limited in what you could do.
If you are going to run any one program at a time, the base model of any of those Macs (4GB RAM) will be fine. But working on newsletters and flyers, for efficiency's sake you will probably have more than one program open at a time: Word for preparing text, Photoshop for preparing photos, and Dreamweaver or InDesign where you lay it all out, going back and forth between them. That increases your RAM needs. 8GB would be a good place to be, but if you can afford to buy with the maximum amount of RAM that would help future-proof the Mac (since future versions of software always need more RAM, not less).
Having more RAM is more critical if you plan to use Photoshop for fancy stuff like cameras with lots of megapixels, raw editing, panoramas, HDR, or 3D. If you are just doing basic photo editing, 8GB RAM is fine. The other software you listed doesn't need as much RAM so more than one of them will run fine together under 8GB RAM.
If you get a MacBook Air or MacBook Pro, they start with only 128GB storage and it cannot be upgraded. That might not be enough space in the long run if you use a lot of graphics files and photos, so think about specifying at least 256GB storage in whatever you buy if your newsletter projects are large and you don't want to store them on external drives. The Mac mini starts out with a nice big hard drive.
What it will probably come down to is, spec out all three models you are considering with at least 8GB RAM and as much storage as you will need during the life of the computer, then pick the one that fits your budget. If you need portability, cross off the Mac mini.

What is the best format for itunes music to play via Airport Exress

Hi,
My entire music collection on my itunes was either ripped from CD or purchased from itunes store.
I currently have the latest version of itunes software.
I stream my airtunes via ethernet (Devolo plugs one plugged into my router - the other downstairs plugged into my AX via ethernet cable)connected to electricty circuit, connected to my AX (802.11g) connected to a very good quality amp and speakers (all bi -wired cabling from amp to speakers).
Not all the time but there are certain songs that sound "tinny" to me, the music overshadows the lyrics and I need to play the tune quite loud just to get any feeling for the song. Jazz music also seems overly complex for the airtunes even when purchased from itunes. I was wondering if there is a specific file type or setting that would improve the sound quality ?
I'm not an aficionado but i would have thought there was enough quality to create a decent sound and I'm sure I have not set something up properly.

The editor of Stereophile magazine has tested an AE, and found that it was capable of bit-accurate output. For example, if iTunes has a 16/44.1 file, you will get an exact replica of that file streaming digitally via the AE.
Having said that, they have also concluded that Apple Lossless Compression is also bit-accurate. As such, if you were to rip your CD's using ALC, you will get a perfect digital copy when streaming through an AE. They will of course take up much more space than AAC or MP3.
I have just added a AE to my network, and find that the sound (when using its optical output) is exceedingly good when using ALC based files.
One additional bit of information though is that they tested the analog outputs of the AE, and in terms of the lab measurements found them to be poor. Lab measurements and what you actually hear may not always agree, but since the digital output is essentially transparent to the source, that is the route I have taken.
As for your situation, music purchased from iTunes is, at best, 256K AAC. Fine for ear buds, but probably not suitable for playback over a proper stereo system. And if you have left iTunes at its default settings, you are using 128K AAC for rips from your CD's. Again, quite unacceptable for serious listening.
The settings for importing are found at iTunes Preferences/Advanced/Importing. I would suggest making some test rips of the same music at different settings, including Apple Lossless, and see how those sound over your equipment.
Brian
Message was edited by: BGLeduc
Message was edited by: BGLeduc

What's the best format for streaming music via bluetooth?

I've got a really nice car stereo that I had installed a number of years ago. I just replaced the head unit with a Pioneer unit that allows me to stream music from my iPhone 6+. It supports A2DP.
Right now I've got my music encoded as MP3 files at 320 kbps. Should that be sufficient or is there something about the A2DP profile that perhaps would make another format (like AAC) a better choice?
I just want this to sound as good as possible. Thanks for any advice.

conejo61 wrote:
I just want this to sound as good as possible. Thanks for any advice.
Then adjust the equalizer settings on the head unit. The difference in sound quality between the formats would be negligible.

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Do Apple recommend any products or do they sell one?

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if you work with own recorded sounds you might wanna have a music program where you want to work with samples, steinberg has got very good ones (so they say)... but their really really ( ²) expensive(that's why almost no one haves them), magix haves good ones too bu their more for 'unprofessional' use, ableton haves really good ones too and they're not to difficult to use (if you know a bit of those programs you learn very quickly) and if you don't get them, there is a sort of manual built in it which explains and lets you do things to start (basics)
i hope this helped, btw stereo speakers are always better if you buy good ones (no pc speakers), but if you don't think you need them, don't buy them...
so again, i hope you have some ideas now

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Hello.
I will upgrade my 2010 Macbook Pro. I need to know what's the best SSD for my Macbook Pro. I was thinking about those:
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It is my understanding that SATA III is backwards compatible to SATA II so that should not be an issue for your selection process.
As an aside, you might be interested to know that your MBP can now have 16 GB RAM installed.
http://blog.macsales.com/16353-owc-announces-maxram-memory-upgrades-to-16gb-for- 2010-mac-mini-macbook-and-macbook-pro
Ciao.

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best skin for new Macbook Air 13"?

What is the best skin for new Macbook Air 13"?
I have a new Air and want to protect it from scratches and such.
Thanks in advance

Sorry, I don't like "skins". They inhibit the heat transfer necessary to keep your MBA cool. Get a soft or hard case to store it when not in use. I like Speck products.
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HT4914 I purchased iMatch because my old computer was failing and I was afraid of losing my music library. Now I bought a new laptop; what is the best way for me to transfer my library to my new laptop? Will iMatch help me do this?

I purchased iMatch because my old computer was failing and I was afraid of losing my music library. Now I bought a new laptop; what is the best way for me to transfer my library to my new laptop? Will iMatch help me do this?

Is/was failing or has failed?
If the old computer still runs one of these methods may be best.
Method 1
Backup the library with this User Tip.
Restore the backup to your new computer using the same tool used to back it up.
Deauthorize the old computer if you no longer want to access protected content on it.
Keep your backup up-to-date in future.
Method 2
Connect the two computers to the same network. Share your <User's Music> folder from the old computer and copy the entire iTunes library folder into the <User's Music> folder on the new one. Again, deauthorize the old computer if no longer required.
I'd recommend method 1 since it establishes an ongoing backup for your library.
I don't have personal experience with iTunes Match, but in principle you should be able to download all the tracks currently registered to your iTunes Match account. This isn't quite the same as restoring your previous library exactly as it was. There is always the potential for iTunes match to provide the wrong version of a song and could be content such as movies, podcasts, audiobooks etc. that would have been excluded.
tt2

What is the best macbook pro for video editing dslr footage?

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It is the GPU that is important. All the CPU's will be fast enough. If you can affords it, the 15" with the NVIDIA GPU is the best.
Ciao.

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What is the best software for burning a large slideshow with 500 photos and music to DVD?

Are you talking about strictly burning an already put-together slideshow or composing one and then burning it?
My all time favorite slide show maker is Photo to Movie; you can then burn it from there or get it into iMovie and/or iDVD for the "finishing" touch. My favorite burn software is Toast, although you can use iMovie, iDVD, and Finder as well.
http://www.lqgraphics.com/software/phototomovie.php
http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/toast/titanium/

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What do you plan to use this microphone for? By "best" do you mean best sound quality? Best price?
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Best of luck.

What is the best Macbook for me? (Music producer)

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