What is the best product for my needs ?

I am getting confused with what product i should use ?
What we have is web big scale application (lots of concurrent users), while it's web tier is written in ASP.
I need the ability to preview reports, does RDC is the right answer for me and if it is Crystal Reports XI Developer Edition is the best version?

I would recommend moving away from the RDC period. This is an old technology and has been retired in the currently shipping version of CR (CR 2008). Moving forward, consider either the .NET or Java SDKs. As to what will be best for your requirements regarding loads, users, etc., see this:
Choose the right SDK (ppt)
https://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/40bccdfd-88a6-2b10-1da1-c47a54b625a7
Choosing the Right Business Objects SDK for Your Needs (article)
https://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/7025839b-00d4-2b10-33b4-cf0aa9e08412
Optimizing Reports for the Web (article)
https://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/701c069c-271f-2b10-c780-dacbd90b2dd8
Crystal Reports 2008 Component Engine Scalability (article)
https://www.sdn.sap.com/irj/scn/go/portal/prtroot/docs/library/uuid/7025839b-00d4-2b10-33b4-cf0aa9e08412
Ludek

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Hi gardenzio2,
You can try using Adobe Photoshop

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Without a bit more info, it's hard to answer your question.
How many CD's do you intend to keep on the PC/Mac/iPad as an iPad has a maximum storage of aprox 55Gb's for the top model, whereas even a basic PC laptop is likely to have 150Gb plus of space. Plus you are going to need a PC/Mac to copy the CD's in the first place, unless you intend to buy all your music from the iTunes store.
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What is the best product for me?

Next year I will be a college student and want an apple product that can be my notebook. I currently use OneNote on a Toshiba tablet, but want to upgrade to apple. I know that apple does not make a tablet, but I figured I could get an ipad with a stylus for when I need to write things like math. I could also get one of those attachable keyboards for essays and such. Does this sound like a logical system for a college student? Can OneNote even be downloaded on an iPad? I've seen the styluses and they seem a bit weird, with a round rubber tip. It seems as though that isn't very efficient for writing as you wouldn't know exactly where what you draw would show up, am I right about that? If I am, I guess I would just get a normal Macbook and simply use paper for math class. Please let me know what you think would be the best system for me. Thank you!

Look at these links.
http://www.cultofmac.com/185805/why-you-should-buy-an-ipad-instead-of-a-macbook- for-college-back-to-school/
http://www.forbes.com/sites/quickerbettertech/2013/06/10/whats-the-best-tool-for -college-a-macbook-or-ipad-and-wait-what-about-windows-8/
http://techland.time.com/2012/08/28/ask-techland-ipad-with-a-keyboard-or-macbook -air-for-an-adult-student/
http://www.gizmag.com/2013-macbook-air-11-inch-vs-ipad/27993/
http://www.imore.com/imore-tv-25-buy-ipad-11inch-macbook-air
http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/buying-advice/apple/3420938/macbook-or-ipad-what-shou ld-you-get/
 Cheers, Tom

What is the best product for network mapping and monitoring? I am an inexperienced user). Mac 10.9.2 laptop

I have lots of questions, but the gist is that I want to know the best product, preferably from the app store, that I can use for network mapping mapping and monitoring.
I want to get their mac address or other police trackable etc info so I can use my computer safely.
I am also being cyberbullied.
I try just using ethernet but still get intruded on, for instance, messages that "other devices are using my ip address". The only other device I own is an iPod that I keep sahut off plus wifi turned off then.
(NOTE: You can skip the rest of this message if you want. It regards hacking attempts etc, a little out of the scope of discussion, perhaps).
Also a home intrusion where computer was thoroughly hacked with router(s) set up "very very close to me," according to Apple.
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Also, The ip addresses for google and the one in syste preferences and the one looking up my ip address on ip chicken always gets three different results.
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Aubry,
why don't you send your sequences straight to Compressor first, encode your movies as MPEG 2 and AC3 audio and import all assets in DVD studio PRO?
G.

What is the best workflow for me, need heavy post production

Hi,
I recently filmed a video where a person was in front of a green screen. The camera broke the video up into several clips. I am going to chroma key out the green screen and there are a lot of effects I want to do.
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I recently filmed a video where a person was in front of a green screen.
Using what kind of camera? What's the footage's acquisition codec? I'll assume that you're well-versed in lighting for green screen.
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It appears you need to know a little more about AE, specifically about RAM previewing:
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/aftereffects/cs/using/WS3878526689cb91655866c1103906c6dea-7ec9 a.html
It would also be good to know what you mean by "skip straight to AE". How are you capturing this video you shot?
Is it possible to start in AE or should I start in Premiere?
I don't know what the rest of your project is like, but for just about any project I've ever heard of, the workflow is to capture video, edit the video, and export the parts that require work in AE. The fact that you have a ton of green-screen clips doesn't have a lot of bearing on that workflow.

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I was also wondering is it possible to use Final Cut Express's Log and Transfer program directly from files if they are in a different file format. So far my experiments with this have failed. But if this is possible, I suppose I can also just convert all the backlogged files wholesale into a format that Final Cut Express supports more easily for Log and Transfer (What file format would this be? Sorry I am new to this). My new harddrive has a lot of free space, so I could probably handle the huge amount of storage that this would require for the raw footage and then I could erase it after I log and transfer just what I need. In which case, do folks have recommendations for a file convertor. I am dealing with over hundreds of files and I don't think the free online convertors would work. This product has been suggested to me, but I know very little about it.
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What is the best solution for my need

I have a failry simple need, but with so many products on acrobat.com, I'm not sure the best way to tackle it.
I want to be able to email my new employees a link to paperwork I need filled out for their employment with my company, and have the results go to my HR dept.
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Hi B.Fabiano
You can export responses as PDF. It will extract each response as a seperate PDF.
See if that works for you.

What is the best product for interior designers?

Have not purchased a Photoshop product yet. Which one is best for interior designers? Tx

Or maybe look at one of those 3D packages. It's a competitive world, and impressing the client with a virtual walk-through of the revamped environment might be the difference between you, and someone else getting the work.
Home Styler comes from the same people who make Autocad, which is as good a recommendation as you can get. I know nothing about it, but it says it's free!
http://usa.autodesk.com/homestyler/
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Something else I'd definitely think about, is an Interior Design forum. Flickr has thousands of such groups (it calls them Pools now), and you can ask the people already doing the same thing
http://www.flickr.com/groups/interior/

What is the best product for music and gaming? I'm looking for an apple COMPUTER. Not iPod etc.

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P.S
I'm looking for preferably a laptop.

while the Air can play many games fine, it is not an idealized gaming machine.
examine a macbook Pro model at your local Apple store for evaluation if you plan on much gaming.

What is the best product for creating/redesigning employee benefit guides (with a epub function)?

I am looking at InDesign CS6... your thoughts?

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I am not suggesting this cannot be accomplished, however it may require a lot structing, formatting, modifying and testing.

What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my mac? Do I need Virus Protection?

What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my Mac? Do I need Virus protection?

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best app for backing up my mac. I do publication work and need to save my work?

what is the best app for backing up my mac. I do publication work and need to save my work?

My answer does not have the black Apple logo but the hardearned black belt of (bad) experience.
There is one problem with TimeMachine. It can get corrupted out of the blue with no warning and it will not want to restore correctly (as an added "bonus" you get to find this out the "hard" way, when you need it most). Plus it takes ages for the data to be copied back, sometimes days. Haven't tried my 600gb backup on Mavericks but Mountain Lion had this knack of breaking Timemachine after a couple of months.
To back up my entire server is use SuperDuper. It mirrors the drive to an external one (usb for example) The cool thing is you can use that usb drive and start the OS X from it (by holding Alt when you hear the boot chime).
This way you have a working copy of your entire machine. You can even go to another mac and boot it from there. I literally ran the OS X Server in my company from a usb drive on an old MacBook Pro until i got around to fix the problems with the actual server machine.
This has saved me twice already as the Hitachi drives Apple uses, tend to die like clockwork after 4000-5000 hours of use with no warning.
http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html
PS. As a sidenote... SSDs are more reliable than a normal HDD (not to mention faster) I can't stress this enough, my Server is on two SSDs now. I can't tell you how stress free the setup is, it doesn't feel like a computer but more like a router, it just works... forever. After two years with SSDs my server has had two days of downtime and their health is at 97%, they will literally last 100 years with normal use. I'd go so far as to recommend you buy an SSD and move your old HDD to an external enclosure and use that as a usb backup. (for SSDs i use Plextor / Lite-On M3s (older) or the M6s (newer))

What is the best product for my needs ?

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