What is the best strategy for purchasing at the refurbished store?

I am hoping to buy my next Apple through the refurbished store and wonder if anyone can share their experience in terms of finding the exact configuration you are looking for. Today I browsed the store and found the perfect setup. Apparently I did not click 'add to cart' quickly enough, and the Mac I wanted was gone. I assume the stock is updated daily? or maybe new items are added once they are released for purchase from Apple?
I have no intention of compromising on the specs I want, can anyone help me strategize on how to increase my odds of finding the new refurb Mac I am looking for?

There really is no strategy. Items put in the Refurb Store come in all shapes and sizes but not by any particular order. If you want a particular configuration then all you can do is check regularly to see if one appears. Or you can select some other configuration that you can upgrade yourself.
As for buying refurbs in general, I have several of them all of which have been running perfectly since purchase. Were I to buy a new computer I would probably buy it refurbished to save money.

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What is the best resolution for pics in the drop zones of idvd?

What is the best resolution for pics in the drop zones of iDVD?
Also: iDVD always seems to align a pic to the left, can I change this anywhere?
thanks

Hello, Hans.
Re: drop zone pic resolution - I generally don't go below 1000 pixels wide (iDVD will resize these images to a slightly smaller format, but I've controlled the largest part of the downsizing in Photoshop Elements).
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John

What is the best app for cleaning up the hard drive?

What is the best app for cleaning up the hard drive?

No such application needed.
Leave 10 to 15% disk space free.
Restart once in a while.
Keep a backup, clone preferably.
If there is any problem with the disk, repair disk.
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    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH5836
Best.

The BEST solution for gmail on the iPhone

OK, so after much poking around, I finally figured out the best solution for using gmail on the iPhone: IMAP support.
While I think Google is still rolling this out to all users, once you get it, USE IT! It basically keeps your mail app synced with gmail, and even supports the use of folders/labels.
To see if your gmail account is ready for IMAP, go to the settings option in gmail and see if one of the tabs says "Forwarding and POP/IMAP." If you don't have IMAP available on your account yet, it won't say IMAP.
Here's some links to get you started:
setting up IMAP for gmail on your iPhone:
https://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=77702
how actions in your mail app sync to gmail:
https://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=77657
I hope this helps out everyone as much as it's helped me. I was a little frustrated before using POP, but gotta love IMAP! I'm not too sure the impact that this has on your battery life, but so far it's working well for me. Enjoy!

Gmail and IMAP have totally change my tune about the iPhone's email abilities. I was getting frustrated with the inability to reliably get mail (Message has not been downloaded...), sync (have to delete mail from both iPhone and desktop Mac), etc., but now I have all my POP email accounts automatically forward to my Gmail account, and I only check Gmail with the iPhone and MacPro. So far, it's a whole new iPhone experience! No more errors - ALL mail comes through perfectly - and no need to manually sync!
Note that, when setting up the Gmail/IMAP accounts, do NOT simply update your old POP Gmail settings on your Mac or iPhone! Start with a FRESH new account. I couldn't get either the iPhone or Mac to work until I started with a fresh account.
Also, I was unable to send mail from the iPhone using the smtp.gmail address, so I had changed the outgoing mail setting to use my regular ISP's smtp address. But, at some point (a few minutes later or a few hours, I don't know) when I checked the Gmail settings on the iPhone, it had magically changed itself to smtp.gmail, with the port number, and it has been working perfectly ever since! Maybe IMAP can atomatically correct this info? Not sure.
One more thing. Once you have Gmail IMAP working, then you MUST go here:
http://5thirtyone.com/archives/862
Follow these directions exactly. This is a necessary set of steps in order to make your iPhone and Mac sync correctly, so that trashed mail on the iPhone will go in the trash on your desktop Mac, etc. It's pretty freaky to check email on the iPhone, and then go to your Mac Mail a few minutes later, and see all the newly trashed (or saved/read) emails perfectly synched up!
A final note. Once this is all working and synching, remember that if you delete an email on your iPhone, it gets deleted on the desktop Mac Mail as well (and vice-versa)... which is exactly what you want to happen, but I find that I have to remember to keep the mail that I want to save on the iPhone's inbox until I get back to my desktop Mac. Otherwise, I have to manually remove it from the trash to save it!

What will be the best strategy for encoding performance ?

Hi to all.
As I am a rooky with Premier Element 11, I comes to you all to get your feedback with your configuration choice.
My PC is a self made choice:
CPU is Intel Core i7 3770K - 3.5Ghz
GPU is a GeForce GTX 660 OC 2Go or ATI HD 5870
RAM is 16 Go (2x8Go) gskill PC3-10700 (2400 Mhz)
Motherboard is Asus P8Z77-V Pro
SSD is a Samsung Pro 256Go defines as the system (C:\)
Premiere Element is installed on it.
What would you do if you have the choice to buy 1 or 2 HDD 1To SATA III 64Mo (6 Gbit/s) ?
I would like to know where I should put the following files in order to get the best performance to encode a movie in full HD.
- Movie source files
- Premiere Element Temp Files
- Output (final movie file)
Thanks for your idears
Biglooping

The tradition with HDDs is to spread them out on multiple drives to prevent input/output drive bottlenecks. All of the article in the Adobe libraries (that I've found) are aimed at users with workstations that have multiple hard drives and various backup systems. Few articles have mentioned SSDs as apparently they have not been considered trustworthy.
I have a new ASUS i7 laptop and am very happy creating a new folder for each project and putting everything in that folder. I create the folder, put copies of the media I plan to use in it, start a new project and double check in preferences that scratch disks are all set for "same as project".
Since I use the SSD as the work drive, my HDD is for storage and less significant software installations. At 7200 RPM it is relatively fast, but not that important for they way I manage video projects.
At output I get near 1:1 render times, unless there is significant use of effects and multiple video tracks.
The laptop has a 7200 RPM HDD. I tried various suggestions for spreading out the source, temp and output files and got no noticeable improvements in performance. So, if you choose to manage projects like I do, it does not matter much what HDD you buy.
When a project is complete I move the entire folder to another drive for storage and back that up on yet another drive. If I want to work on a project, I can move the entire folder back to the SSD. I find it very convenient.
Bill S
Message was edited by: whsprague to correct spelling errors!

What is the best strategy for wireless printing?

Hi,
I just got an HP 6500A wireless all in one printer and have it connected by ethernet cable to our wireless router. My desktop running Vista Home Premium is also connected to the router. Printing from the desktop works fine. We also want to print wirelessly from a couple of Windows laptops, an iPhone and an iPad. I installed HP's Mobile E-print driver on the laptops and it works but I think the size limitation (5 mb) is a problem. I couldn't print a single page pdf, but a Word doc printed fine.
So, it looks like I could:
A: Connect the printer to the desktop by USB and share the printer on the network. Possible drawbacks - I think I'd have to leave the desktop on all the time and we haven't had much success sharing our old HP printer.
B: Install the printer on the network, via ethernet, and use the embedded web server. Then I guess I install the printer software on each computer?
C: Connect the printer wirelessly. Is this any different from option B other than not using a cable? The printer is located near the router and the desktop so the cable isn't a problem.
I know it may just come down to individual preference, but I'd be grateful for any advice as to which direction to go!
Thanks.
Dirt Gardener
This question was solved.
View Solution.

A is not a great solution. Printer sharing USB printers have so many downsides, some of which you described. In addition, only printing can be shared, not scanning or faxing.
I like B the best. Ethernet is superior to wireless if you can connect that way - no passwords, no interference and it is generally a faster interface. Install the printer software on each computer (from the "Support & Drivers" link at the top of this page, not a CD).
C is OK, but only if you cannot connect by Ethernet.
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

What's the best strategy for storing URLs as keys?

I need to create an index that maps URLs to 8-byte longs. I know that I can just use StringBinding and LongBinding to create my entries, however I'm wondering if there's anything that I could do to make more efficient use of memory. I need quick lookups, but I also need to store a lot of data (600M URLs and growing). The average length of a URL is about 90 characters.
Since I don't know what BDB actually keeps in memory at runtime, I'm wondering what advantage there is (if any) from using hashes for the keys instead of the full URLs. I'd have to store the URL in the data to distinguish hash collisions. There's obviously a trade-off between the size of the hash output and the number of collisions. I can't imagine that the lookup time would suffer that much if I have to iterate through all of the records that hash to a particular key, but I'd like to know if you have a reason to contradict that assumption.
In summary, I'd like to know what BDB would prefer from a performance standpoint (both size and speed):
+ smallest key/data records (store URL as key, long as data)
+ smaller keys/larger data/minimal collisions (store 160-bit hash of URL as key, URL and long as data)
+ even smaller keys/same data/more collisions (store 64-bit hash of URL as key, URL and long as data)
The key size would also be much more consistent if I use a hash function. I don't know if BDB cares about that.
I know that every situation is different and that I could just run my own performance tests (and I will), but it takes a few days to load the data into the index, so I'd like to call on the experience here to avoid making any really bad decisions and save me some time.
Thanks,
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Hi Justin,
I know you're not looking for an "it all depends" answer, but it does depend largely on how much of the data set you're accessing fits into the JE cache. If you're not sure about this and can't measure it by running your app and looking at the EnvironmentStats, please run the DbCacheSize utility. There's an FAQ about it, and several OTN threads.
If the large majority of the data set you access frequently fits into the cache, you'll get maximum performance with the first option you mention (no hashing), since you don't have to filter out hash collisions.
If I/O to read from disk is a big factor (because the JE cache isn't large enough), then you may be able to reduce this problem by trying to fit more into the JE cache.
Reducing the key size by using a hash is one way to fit more data into cache, since the keys are stored multiple times in the Btree internal nodes. However, unless the records with the same hash are likely to have been read recently, reading the colliding records will result in more random reads, and that will probably outweigh the advantage. JE stores each record separately on disk in write order, so records with the same hash key will not be stored in "pages" together -- JE has no pages.
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--mark

What is the best strategy for sharing iPhoto libraries between two macs?

I have an iMac and a new Airbook. I want to keep my iMac as the"main" iPhoto location, but want to also keep copies of the photos on my Airbook.
I could copy the library from one to the other to get the photos into the Airbook initially, but then how would I get subsequent ones in there? Is there a way to sync these two computers so that the photos flow from one to the other? One-way syncing would be ok...
Thanks.
Oh - and I use MobileMe if that helps.

There is an application that can sync two iPhoto libraries. It's SyncPhotos
Here's how it works:
1 - it compares the databases and/or album.xml files of Libraries A and B.
2 - the files in A that are not in B are imported into B by copying the original files from A into B's Import folder.
3 - it then does the same for B.
4 - metadata is not copied nor are Faces or Places.
It can be used to just copy from A to B and not sync both ways if desired. It will work with 2 libraries that are different versions, i.e. between an iPhoto 08 and iPhoto 09 library.
If you want to copy selected Events or Album from one to the other and keep the metadata, faces and places intact, you can use the paid version of iPhoto Library Manager. You would have to manually select the event/album to copy from A to B and do the same for B to A.
OT

What's the best strategy for cropping 1080p video?

I just shot a panel discussion in 1080p, and because of all the panning back and forth there are parts that could benefit from some cropping (in other words, I would set a keyframe and use the transform tool to enlarge slightly in order to center the speaker in the frame).
1080p is WAY larger than the indended final product. Should I plow straight ahead and assume that outputting to a smaller resolution will take care of concerns over degredation? or should I anticipate issues from the start and specifiy a smaller resolution as part of bringing the video into the timeline?

not really.
Let's assume I have auto render (or background rendering) turned off. I'll finish all my transform-tool work, then "render all" while I run down to the corner Starbucks.
I think in terms of Photoshop. If the canvas is smaller than the clip, then introducing the video to the timeline -or canvas, would be the point when the clip gets repositioned... or, if the clip is OK, then I would just use the transform tool to reduce it to fit the frame.
Again, thinking in Photoshop terms, if the final exported product is smaller that the original, then using the transform tool to increase the clip size has less pronounced effect. Alas, in Photoshop, outputting at a smaller size (for web) means you aren't going to see the pixels that got "tore up".
I'm not sure I can expect the same thing to happen in the wonderful world of video editing.

[AMD] Whats the best BIOS for overclocking on the K8N Neo-2 Platinum

any one know which one is best.
thanks

I have no idea what biosversion that is the best in general for OC the K8N Neo2 P.
I use 1.5 and it´s the only version I´ve used.
I believe not many people have tested OC potential for all 6 versions 1.0 - 1.5.
( even more if you include the beta´s).
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Good RAM and a good CPU stepping are in most cases more important then biosversions.

What is the best app for following of the download? I mean how much I downloaded using WIFI and how much 3D download.

I would like to follow the amount of MB I downloaded and to know how much data was downloaded using WIFI and how much using 3G (internet connection by phone network provider as AT&T and so...).
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Personally I have tried LogMeIn Ignition, Splashtop, and AlwaysOnPC, as well as TeamViewer. Although LogMeIn Ignition is expensive I would also have to say that it is the best one I've tried. Apart from viewing the computer's screen, you can access the files and folders in a standalone file browser interface without seeing the computer's screen, this speeds things up a lot.
As for security, I'm not too sure, as the website for LogMeIn does not seem to list the details. But as with any other internet based service, like email and social networking sites, an additional account of any sort will increase your vulnerability, even if it's just by that small amount. You can try accessing the computer through a VPN when on a public wifi network for added security. However about the virus, I don't think that is possible... No need to worry about your iPad getting a virus.

Best strategy for backing up the rman catalog database

I have seen people do
1. full export
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What do you use?
I am in 10.1, but this is a general question.

Hi,
1. full export
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In the case of loss of control files, its can be used for that.
3. put a repository in another database and cross backup
It's to persits the data Base backup histories in another database, gives the facility to clone/ re- build the DB to different node - in terms of crashes.
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Any recommendations for the best strategy for converting 2007 QuickBooks to 2014 QB for Mac?

Hi Everyone,
I am considering the purchase of my first Mac. Looking at the 21.5 inch. I currently use QuickBooks 2007 on a Windows XP service pack 3. I am wondering how to best handle the conversion. Do you think my QB 2007 would flow over to the QB for Mac 2014 or should upgrade my data to QuickBooks 2012 first? I don't do payroll and process retail sales transactions with Quickbooks so I don't think I'd have any issues with running the Mac version. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi Everyone,
I am considering the purchase of my first Mac. Looking at the 21.5 inch. I currently use QuickBooks 2007 on a Windows XP service pack 3. I am wondering how to best handle the conversion. Do you think my QB 2007 would flow over to the QB for Mac 2014 or should upgrade my data to QuickBooks 2012 first? I don't do payroll and process retail sales transactions with Quickbooks so I don't think I'd have any issues with running the Mac version. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

What is the best program for mail on the Mac?

I have .Mac and use the default mail. I am diluged by spam that I keep deleting and trying to remove myself from their list. I don't see any way to Bounce messages back. Also, I can't seem to see where i can view my sent messages.
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jrobb,
In regard to your sent mail, Saving copies of email you send, and Mac 101: Mail may be helpful.
Bouncing messages is a waste of time, because it only confirms to the sender that your email address is valid.
List removal is only useful for trustworthy companies. Any others will once again benefit from the fact that you have confirmed your email address.
If your primary address has been inundated with Spam, you will probably benefit from creating an alias address for your .Mac email address. These links may be helpful:
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2. Creating an alias
3. Turning an alias on or off
;~)

What is the best replacement for Photoshop from the App Store?

One of the things I miss is my ability to use Photoshop with earlier OS versions. I do keep a MacBook Pro to the side of my desktop iMac so I can still use Photoshop.
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Thanks in advance.
-MacPaige

MacPaige wrote:
I have already tried Pixelator but it does not have some of the features that I really beed (like drop shadow).
Could have fooled me!

What is the best strategy for purchasing at the refurbished store?

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