What is the best workflow for Final Cut Pro X across multiple computers?
I travel on a team that is in a different location every week, so all of our video editing has to be fairly moble. We have 3 macbook pros and would like to use final cut X on all of them. What would be the best workflow for us all to work on the same project and sync it across the computers? (eg, one of us editing the footage, one editing the sound, one working on visual effects?)
My first question would be how well 5.1 would work with SL. People have reported problems.
As far as cameras are concerned, I would guess most any tape-based camera would work and so much depends on the kind of projects you work on that I wouldn't want to start guessing at your needs.
If you want broad access to tapeless and advanced formats try to locate and purchase an upgrade disk to 6 or 7.
Good luck.
Russ
Similar Messages
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What is the best camcorder for final cut pro 5.1.4
yes i know it is an older program i am having problems uploading video from certain cameras to final cut pro. i was told it was a software problem with certain cameras and i cannot find any cameras that have firewire anymore that are not really expensive. just need some ideas guys thanks
My first question would be how well 5.1 would work with SL. People have reported problems.
As far as cameras are concerned, I would guess most any tape-based camera would work and so much depends on the kind of projects you work on that I wouldn't want to start guessing at your needs.
If you want broad access to tapeless and advanced formats try to locate and purchase an upgrade disk to 6 or 7.
Good luck.
Russ -
What are the system requirements for Final Cut Pro 7?
I can't find the system requirements for Final Cut Pro 7, I can find the system requirements for X, but like I said not 7.
I need to know the system requirements for Final Cut Pro 7, so I can buy the correct Macbook.
Is there anyway I can find out the system requirements.Thanks
I'm somewhat inept about things like this, so I just want to make sure once more: This is in regards to Final Cut Pro 7? -
What is the creator code for final cut pro x?
Final Cut Pro 7 has creator code "KeyG" but the trial for FCP X has creator code "????" (according to the .plist). Does the full version use "KeyG" like previous ones, or a new code?
Thanks
MarcMy first question would be how well 5.1 would work with SL. People have reported problems.
As far as cameras are concerned, I would guess most any tape-based camera would work and so much depends on the kind of projects you work on that I wouldn't want to start guessing at your needs.
If you want broad access to tapeless and advanced formats try to locate and purchase an upgrade disk to 6 or 7.
Good luck.
Russ -
What's the best SSD for a Macbook Pro 13" Mid 2010?
Hello.
I will upgrade my 2010 Macbook Pro. I need to know what's the best SSD for my Macbook Pro. I was thinking about those:
- Kingston SSDNow V+200 (SVP200S37A/120G) - 120 GB
- CRUCIAL SSD M4 128 GB
- CORSAIR SSD Force Series GS 128 GB
- SAMSUNG SSD 840 Series Basic 2.5" - 120 GB (MZ-7TD120BW)
- CRUCIAL SSD interno Crucial v4 - 128 GB
Those are the easiest to find on Portugal.It is my understanding that SATA III is backwards compatible to SATA II so that should not be an issue for your selection process.
As an aside, you might be interested to know that your MBP can now have 16 GB RAM installed.
http://blog.macsales.com/16353-owc-announces-maxram-memory-upgrades-to-16gb-for- 2010-mac-mini-macbook-and-macbook-pro
Ciao. -
What is the oldest version of Final Cut Pro HD that supports...?
What is the oldest version of Final Cut Pro HD that supports clips from Panasonic P2 Cameras?
You must have 5.0.4 or later.
Nothing earlier will work:
http://library.creativecow.net/articles/rossshane/p2workflow/video-tutorial.php -
While downloading the free trial for Final Cut Pro X my internet has dropped out many times. It does however seem to continue ok each time it reconnects. Will this affect the software when it finishes? Is this a problem? Any advice please?
This has happened to me with a few downloads without any upsets.
You should be OK.
As I recall the download is around 1.2 gig so it takes a bit of time and effort to get it to your system.
Al -
Ok.
My workflow is
RAW > Aperture Library > export jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > one file on PS > edit > Save us jpeg. The I realised that files from PS were being save in a smaller size from the ones exported form Aperture. That is when I went o see <image size> on PS and files were with 72.
Since ten I've trying different things
1. Aperture > export as PSD > open on PS > edit > Save us jpeg = small file (around 15 MB)
2. Aperture > export as jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > open on PS > CHANGE dpi's to 300 on <image size> edit > Save us jpeg = big file (Huge, actually)
What am I doing wrong? Would someone give me guidance and tell me what is the best workflow, considering I edit photos to deliver to my clients and I shall give them 300 dpi's.
Thank youThis is a known Aperture issue: Problem with Aperture 3.6 preset exports. | Apple Support Communities
Benjamin -
What's the best workflow for Home Movie Importing and Enjoying?
I'm new to iMovie (and the mac) and have started importing all my home movies from my camcorder into iMovie. I quickly realized that movies take a huge amount of disk space and it may or may not be reasonable to import all my movies and keep them on the hard disk in .dv format. At 12GB/Hour I would need 1.2 Terabytes of storage (plus backup). If that is the best workflow, i'm happy to invest in a few terabytes of storage and back up. But before I do that, I want to check to see if there is a different workflow I should follow given my use case.
Here is my use case:
I have 100 hours of 8mm and miniDV tapes already and plan to continue creating more.
I want to import them all into the iMac for ease of organization, searching for the clips of interest, and watch them either on my iMAC and also on my TV (via TIVO).
I may do some editing, but this is not a big priority for me at this time. I may do more editing in the distant future when I have more time. My editing for now will be limited to rejecting portions of clips I don't want.
I plan to watch the movies from my iMac on my TV via my TIVO (i've already ordered the Roxio Toast software that I understand I need, per the Tivo web site).
The final piece of my use case is back-up. I'd prefer to back up my movies on disk this way I maintain any editing i've done in case of a disk failure. Depending on what video format is recommended, this may bump me into a RAID multi-terabyte system as both working and automatic backup?
Here are my questions:
Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)
Or is the .dv format intended only for temporary editing and users are expected to compress into another format after editing? if so, what format and which tool is recommended? (keeping in mind that I want to view the clips via Tivo and Roxio/Toast).
If I need to byte the bullet and invest in storage, my quick math suggests I'll need about 2 terabytes for the library and 2 more for back up for a total of 4 terabytes!?. Is a RAID system recommended for this? (I was surprised that the Apple store did not carry such a system, so perhaps that is not the best option). What would you recommend?
Anyone out there with a similar use case? I know I've asked a lot of questions here. I'd appreciate any recommendations you may have, even if you cant answer all of them.
Thank you.I am in a similar mode, though about half as much existing DV footage.
+Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)+
Short answer, yes; long answer:
I did "bite the bullet" since 1T drives are at or just over $100. I'm using a MacBook Pro so I bought an 2 port eSATA card for my cardbus slot ($34), and a 1T eSATA/Firewire/USB drive ($119). I don't plan to "back up" as I am not going to get rid of my Mini DV tapes/vhs/analog tapes, etc. Those will be in an off-site dark cool closet elsewhere. I don't want to do RAID or such as it still puts everything in the same drive unit, in the same location. Basically I'm splitting my video import to two different physical drives. So if lightning, thieves, personal incompetence or whatever strikes, there's more chance it'll only affect one of the drives. I've thought about a Drobo, which you might consider. It is unique device that offers a spin on RAID that offers some advantages.
Everything I read here on these boards suggests that it is best to grab the source video in the original format whenever possible. Since storage is cheap, makes sense to me.
It is likely you wouldn't compress your video unless you were going to edit it. For example if you wanted to make a video of the kids growing up to give the relatives you'd likely end up compressing to burn them a dvd. You would compress if you were going to use MobileMe, YouTube, etc. to post some footage. Whether you watch the video from home, or output to DVD for others, or post online, at least you'll have the source video in it's best possible original format to work with.
This is an aside, but might be useful, I imported one tape at a time, let iM09 create a new event and split per each day. THen I renamed every event based on what the content was before doing the next tape. This really helps later on once yo realize you have a hard drive with 50 hours + of everything in your life on it. I included the year in the name in some way, for example, John's wedding 1994, Hawaii 2000, Hawaii 2004. Then I ended up drag/dropping Hawaii to one event. -
Trying to build the best system for Final Cut
IWhat screen would be best suitable to work on Final Cut Pro? 1 screen or 2? 24 or 30 inch? I'm using MacPro (SAS DRIVES).Primarily I am a musician, and my end product is for music and video clip, mostly 3d and abstract art in motion. I'd be collaborating with other artists(visual) from different corners of the planet. The end product has to be HD blu-ray .I know Apple does is not geared for Blu-Ray yet, but there are ways around it. Is there a preference to the Nividea or radeon graphic card? I was told, to my surprise, that the Radeon has a better performance benchmark.
Hence , my questions are the following,
1-What kind of screen is best to use? I'm looking @ Samsung XL30,or XL 24.Or even an Eizo, however, unless it is absolutely necessary I do not want to squander my money away, I'll get an Apple screen if that would guarantee as good a result. Apple has not updated screens for quite a while, I'm sure something is coming down the line. However, time is money!!!
2- Which will be the bets graphic card to use for HD end product?
3-How much memory is needed? I'm looking @ 8GB
4- is 2.8 duo adequate or shall we go for the 3.2GHZ?
Thank you for your kind patience and precious time.Two monitors...and go with the Dell 2408. 24", blow the Apple monitors away, and can be had for under $700.
Graphics cards help Motion and some rendering for FCP plugins. They don't output HD. For that you need a CAPTURE CARD. AJA is the best, but Decklink isn't anything to sneeze at. All depends on what your needs are. www.aja.com, www.decklink.com
2.8Ghz is adequate...more than adequate. For FCP only, 4GB of RAM is all you need. More RAM will help with running mulitple applications, and other apps like After Effects love RAM. But 4GB is a good minimum.
Shane -
What's the right mac for Final Cut Studio?
Hi, I am a cameraman who wants to start learning final cut pro 5 to at first get a dvd together of my work (about 10 mins)and then maybe do some professional editing down the line. I am a bit lost with what mac I need to run studio on as I'm hearing conflicting voices. I can afford to buy an iMac G5 with 1.5 gig of ram. Will all the applications in studio run on this machine? should i bump up the hardrive to 250? Worst comes to worst should i wait and buy a power mac? Thanks for any help.
Imac g5 Mac OS X (10.4.3)Let's get serious. You are trying to put together a short reel, not edit Cold Mountain.
If you believe you will make your living from this machine, get a professional grade box and all the bells and whistles to go with it.(max ram, multiple internal SATA drives, big monitors, etc)
If you want to get your feet wet, develop an understanding of the program and its basic operational structure, most anything that meets the minimum configuration will do. (Heck, you can edit on a powerbook...)
In the first case, (the professional box) if you spend 5 minutes rather than 15 minutes waiting for a render, it makes a differnece, time IS money. In the second case (learning curve), it doesn't matter. It's your time.
Cheers,
x
Do your part in supporting your fellow users. If a response has been Helpful to you or Solved your question, please mark it as such as an aid to other lost souls on the forum.
Also, don't forget to mark the thread Answered when you get enough information to close the thread. -
Downscaling a movie from 1080 to 720 the best way in Final Cut Pro?
Which way is best to achieve the best quality in this procedure? I was hoping to be able to do this using the Final Cut Pro application, hopefully not the compressor or any other application if possible.
Does hardware affect quality that much?
Yes, it does.
Is it not a matter of converting 0 and 1 anyway?
Yes, but some things do this better than others. Hardware is best...then the Terranex...then the other hardware. Then After Effects which does this VERY well. FCP is low on that list. Putting the 1s and 0s in the right GOOD order. I'm no engineer, so I can't say specifically what it happening. I can say what my experience has shown.
I think Terranex is about 60K$?
You don't buy one. You take your tape to a post facility that has one and pay them to do it. Or you buy a capture card. Yes, the Mini will upconvert DV to HD, and it will do a decent job. THe Kona card does it better, but the Matrox isn't too far behind. I have both the MXO2 and the MXO2 mini..plus I have used the Kona 3. The Kona is slightly better, but you can't go wrong with the MIni. Real time conversion as you capture, plus the ability to monitor out to an HDTV...bonus!
Shane -
What is the best free program to clean MacBook Pro? One I can set for automatic clean-up
Kappy's Personal Suggestions for OS X Maintenance
For disk repairs use Disk Utility. For situations DU cannot handle the best third-party utilities are: Disk Warrior; DW only fixes problems with the disk directory, but most disk problems are caused by directory corruption; Disk Warrior 4.x is now Intel Mac compatible. Drive Genius provides additional tools not found in Disk Warrior. Versions 1.5.1 and later are Intel Mac compatible. An outstanding source of information is OS X Maintenance - MacAttorney.
OS X performs certain maintenance functions that are scheduled to occur on a daily, weekly, or monthly period. The maintenance scripts run in the early AM only if the computer is turned on 24/7 (no sleep.)
If you are using a pre-Leopard version of OS X, then an excellent solution is to download and install a shareware utility such as Macaroni, JAW PseudoAnacron, or Anacron that will automate the maintenance activity regardless of whether the computer is turned off or asleep. Dependence upon third-party utilities to run the periodic maintenance scripts was significantly reduced since Tiger. (These utilities have limited or no functionality with Snow Leopard, Lion, or Mountain Lion and should not be installed.)
OS X automatically defragments files less than 20 MBs in size, so unless you have a disk full of very large files there's little need for defragmenting the hard drive. As for virus protection there are few if any such animals affecting OS X. You can protect the computer easily using the freeware Open Source virus protection software ClamXAV. Personally I would avoid most commercial anti-virus software because of their potential for causing problems. For more about malware see Macintosh Virus Guide.
I would also recommend downloading a utility such as TinkerTool System, OnyX 2.4.3, or Cocktail 5.1.1 that you can use for periodic maintenance such as removing old log files and archives, clearing caches, etc.
For emergency repairs install the freeware utility Applejack. If you cannot start up in OS X, you may be able to start in single-user mode from which you can run Applejack to do a whole set of repair and maintenance routines from the command line. Note that AppleJack 1.5 is required for Leopard. AppleJack 1.6 is compatible with Snow Leopard. (There is no confirmation that this version also works with Lion or later.)
When you install any new system software or updates be sure to repair the hard drive and permissions beforehand. I also recommend booting into safe mode before doing system software updates.
Get an external Firewire drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner.
2. Data Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. SyncTwoFolders
6. Synk Pro
7. Synk Standard
8. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on maintenance, optimization, virus protection, and backup and restore.
Always have a current backup before performing any system updates or upgrades.
Additional suggestions will be found in:
1. Mac Maintenance Quick Assist,
2. Mac OS X speed FAQ,
3. Speeding up Macs,
4. Macintosh OS X Routine Maintenance,
5. Essential Mac Maintenance: Get set up,
6. Essential Mac Maintenance: Rev up your routines,
7. Maintaining OS X,
8. Five Mac maintenance myths,
9. How to Speed up Macs, and
10. Myths of required versus not required maintenance for Mac OS X.
Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.
Be sure you have an adequate amount of RAM installed for the number of applications you run concurrently. Be sure you leave a minimum of 10% of the hard drive's capacity or 20 GBs, whichever is greater, as free space. -
What is the best utility for mac book pro 10.10.2
What is the best utility/ antivirus program for a mac book pro running 10.10.2.
Drewski66 wrote:
What is the best utility/ antivirus program for a mac book pro running 10.10.2.
Nothing that is not already incorporated in OS X 10.10.2.
There will always be threats to your information security associated with using any Internet - connected communications tool:
You can mitigate those threats by following commonsense practices
Delegating that responsibility to software is an ineffective defense
Assuming that any product will protect you from those threats is a hazardous attitude that is likely to result in neglecting point #1 above.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "clean up", "speed up", "optimize", "boost" or "accelerate" your Mac; to "wash" it, "tune" it, or to make it "shiny". Those claims are absurd.Such products are very aggressively marketed. They are all scams.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources.
Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
"Questionable sources" include but are not limited to spontaneously appearing web pages or popups, download hosting sites such as C net dot com, Softonic dot com, Soft pedia dot com, Download dot com, Mac Update dot com, or any other site whose revenue is primarily derived from junk product advertisements.
If you need to install software that isn't available from the Mac App Store, obtain it only from legitimate sources authorized by the software's developer.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iCloud, iTunes, or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose:Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
The same precaution applies to Adobe Flash Player. Newly discovered Flash vulnerabilities appear almost weekly.
Beware spontaneous popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > check "Block popup windows".
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but unsolicited popups are commonly used to deceive people into installing unwanted software they would never intentionally install.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever receive a popup window indicating that your Mac is infected with some ick or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
The same goes for a spontaneously appearing dialog insisting that you upgrade your video player right this instant. Such popups are frequently associated with sites that promise to deliver "free" movies or other copyrighted content that is not normally "free".
The more insistent it is that you upgrade or install something, the more likely it is to be a scam. Close the window or tab and forget it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. Most of these attempts are pathetic and are easily recognized, but that hasn't stopped prominent public figures from recently succumbing to this age-old scam.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind. -
What is the best way to set up Facetime if using multiple computers with one apple ID?
I currently have FaceTime setup on my iPad 2 using my normal appleID, but have just recently upgraded our iMac from Leopard to Snow leopard, and have added FaceTime to that computer as well. So my question is this. If I want to avoid confusion with which device is called when someone calls us using FaceTime, what is the best way to distinguish the devices? Should I try to use a different email address to reach the iMac? Is there a best-known-method for this?
That's a nice system Kevin, and it will work very nicely with Photoshop. I do take it that you have 16Gb RAM in Total?
250Gb SSD is a good size, but you can still run short, and that will affect Windows performance. When you get your system, instal WinDirStat which gives you a graphic display of everything on your drive, like below. Clicking on any of the large areas will tell you what and where they are, so you can think about moving cache folders etc. to one of the HDDs.
Leave the Pagefile.sys on the boot drive. Think about disabling Hyphenate as it takes a ton of space, and too often crashes on wake up.
My Documents
Desktop
Downloads
Look at Bridge cache
iTunes backup
Other stuff like that.
Think about another 500Gb drive just for Photoshop Scratch. Drives are cheap as chips nowadays
Do yourself a favour, and invest $100 in Shadow Protect (or similar if there is such a thing) SP saves incremental backups every 15 minutes (you can set the interval, but it has no impact on performance with a system like yours). If you have a problem you can mount the back up at any of those 15 minute points, and open files from it. You can also make a bootable DVD image of your C drive, and be back up and running five minutes after disaster strikes.
Optimize Performance in Photoshop
Photoshop CC and CC 2014 GPU FAQ
For more ideas, swing by the Premiere Pro Hardware forum. Those guys are serious good at this stuff, and you'll find links tips and ideas.
Happy computing, and have fun with your Creative Cloud® apps.
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