What is the maximum hard drive size for Imac 8,2, what is the maximum hard drive size for Imac 8,2
Am wondering what is the maximum hard drive one can put into this computer. I think it's a 3TB but I read somewhere the drive needs a jumper to bring it back to 3mb level cache. Can anyone confirm these details please? I currently have a 320GB drive installed.
Hi Robbie,
I found no iMac 8,2, do you mean iMac 8,1 ???
There is no practical limit to the size, the biggest ones made will work fine... assuming the all important SATA 3 Gb/s speed, WD drives use a jumper on pins 5&6 to slow it from 6 Gb/s to 3 Gb/s.
Some drives do it automatically...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/HGST/0F14681/
And some do not step down properly at all.
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I have one HDMI port on my television that is currently used for my hard drive/free view box. What kind of adaptor can I buy so I can have the hard drive and my apple tv device plugged into the same HDMI PORT? Is it a switch or a splitter? And where is it best to buy one? Thanks!
Welcome to the Apple Community.
You need an HDMI switch. -
I want to upgrade my Hard Drive to 1TB and more.
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Yesterday, I tried a SEAGATE SSHD but my screen was always a showing a QUESTION MARK (?). It's not the cable because when I put back the old original version, everything works...Any sugestion of brabnding or procédure to upgrade my hard drive?The largest 2.5" dia SATA drives available are 2 TB in capacity.
Have you tried the Seagate SSHD connected externally to the MBP via USB? The drive itself may be faulty.
Ciao.
Here is a good place to start looking for a replacement drive:
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What's the best approach/program for finding and eliminating duplicate photos on my hard drive?
What's the best approach/program for finding and eliminating duplicate photos on my hard drive? I have a "somewhat" older version of iPhoto (5.0.4), and it doesn't seem to offer anything like that except during the importing phase of syncing my phone...
I wonder, is there room to transfer them to your phone, & then back to filter them?
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Your views would be appreciatted, my imac has recently been recalled for a replacement hard drive, would it be easier just to purchase a external hard drive to be on the safe side for backing up my photos etc?
I have a 1GB time capsule but to be honest not sure how it operates it states it oldest back up is the 11th October
201GB of 998 available or would it best to buy a external hard drive and back up using this.
thanks
Benjoe08You are very wise.. !!
It can be awfully hard restoring the Mac from TM.. as many posters here have discovered.
IMHO.. for certainty.. get an external drive.. they are not expensive.. do a full backup to it.
I would even download superduper and make a clone of the existing drive and boot from it.. this means when the Mac is returned if all else fails.. you can use the external clone as a boot and have exact OS as you have right now. -
What is the Best way to set up Photoshop on a new PC with multiple Hard drives and SSD?
Hi hope someone can help.
I am considering buying a new PC (see below). We want to run both Photoshop and Lightroom on the PC. We will also be using it as a Media centre – that’s why I have two big hard drives.
I would like to know the best way to install both Photoshop and Lightroom on the storage devices. As you can see I will have two 3TB hard drives and one 250G SSD card.
For Photoshop I have read that it can be advantages to have the program on one drive the photos on another drive and the “scratch file’ on a third drive. It was even suggested that the PCs Operating system could be on a different drive than the program. Is this correct and if
so what is best to go on the SSD card? I will be partitioning the Hard Drives and I could even partition the SSD drive if that could help. In this case what size partitions are recommended?
If you can see a component below that you think would be an issue with running Photoshop and Lightroom, could you also let me know what you would recommend?
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 CPU. LGA1150
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97M Micro-ATX Motherboard LGA1150
RAM: TWO (2) x Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Desktop Memory
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SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
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Optical drive: LG Blu-Ray Combo Drive. BH16NS40
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BTW I would have liked to email this to Adobe support but could not find an email address to send it to. I hope this way works.That's a nice system Kevin, and it will work very nicely with Photoshop. I do take it that you have 16Gb RAM in Total?
250Gb SSD is a good size, but you can still run short, and that will affect Windows performance. When you get your system, instal WinDirStat which gives you a graphic display of everything on your drive, like below. Clicking on any of the large areas will tell you what and where they are, so you can think about moving cache folders etc. to one of the HDDs.
Leave the Pagefile.sys on the boot drive. Think about disabling Hyphenate as it takes a ton of space, and too often crashes on wake up.
My Documents
Desktop
Downloads
Look at Bridge cache
iTunes backup
Other stuff like that.
Think about another 500Gb drive just for Photoshop Scratch. Drives are cheap as chips nowadays
Do yourself a favour, and invest $100 in Shadow Protect (or similar if there is such a thing) SP saves incremental backups every 15 minutes (you can set the interval, but it has no impact on performance with a system like yours). If you have a problem you can mount the back up at any of those 15 minute points, and open files from it. You can also make a bootable DVD image of your C drive, and be back up and running five minutes after disaster strikes.
Optimize Performance in Photoshop
Photoshop CC and CC 2014 GPU FAQ
For more ideas, swing by the Premiere Pro Hardware forum. Those guys are serious good at this stuff, and you'll find links tips and ideas.
Happy computing, and have fun with your Creative Cloud® apps. -
Laptop went for a swim, Help me get the contents of my time machined/boot camped hard drive back!
So unfortunately my old 13" MacBook Pro got a drink spilled across it a few months back. Mr Genius at the Apple store took one look inside and shook his head "Catastrophic failure, It's hit the fan and gone everywhere". But it wasnt all bad news, He did pull the hard drive out and told me to get an enclosure for it. So I have My hard drive in an enclosure and all the contents are there, I now have a new 13" Macbook Pro sitting in front of me which i purchased yesterday but its not all going to plan... I need help with 2 things.
1. My Home folder on the mac side had file vault turned on.
It was running snow leopard OS X but I cant remember what version it was on at the time. What ever was out in March would be close enough. So I was hoping to boot from an external drive by restarting the computer, holding down option and then selecting which drive to boot from. It looks promising as I restart the computer with the hard drive unplugged and hold down option. Macintosh HD, Recovery HD come up, I plug in the external drive and Macintosh HD1 and Windows then appear as Yellow USB drives. BUT when I click on the Macintosh HD1 i get the grey screen with an apple on it but thats it.
Insert Ideas For Problem 1 Here.....
2. The other half of the hard drive was dedicated to windows.
I'm an Engineer by trade and a lot of the software I use is windows based so I ran Windows 7 on half the hard drive. Booting from the external drive and selecting windows getsd a fair way into the start up process before i get a flicker of a blue screen and the whole computer re starts. What Im wondering is can I create a partition the same size as the old one and then just drop the contents of the external drive which was windows running on a partition in? It would be way easier than trying to start from scratch. I had all kinds of stuff going on in the windows side relating to connecting to the neetwork at work and I'd rather not go through it all again.
Any help or advice is much appreciated!LOL
Water ingress is a nasty thing, which is why it tends to do things like void warranties for example.
When a device like this gets fully immersed in water and is subsequently dried out, there can remain deposits of gunk on the circuit boards, which conduct electricity and thus contribute to discharging the battery much faster.
Water can even seep inside integrated circuits and wreak havoc in there.
Sooner or later your phone is going to give up the ghost so I suggest you start reading through the fine print on your home insurance policy to see if it covers appliances going for a swim without a swim suit.
A last-ditch operation you can try in an attempt to clean any impurities that may have deposited inside the phone, and I know this sounds nuts, is to drown it again, but this time in demineralized water (like the stuff you're supposed to put in your iron).
Take the battery out, dunk the phone in the water for a few minutes. Then take it out, drain it, stick it in a bowl and cover it in uncooked rice, put the bowl of phone risotto in a warm place (such as an airing cupboard) and leave it there to simmer for 48 hours.
One of three things will happen:
1) Nothing. No better, no worse. At least you tried.
2) Problem solved or at least situation improved. Yay!
3) Phone worse off or maybe even completely dead. This was going to happen anyway sooner or later.
Was this post helpful? If so, please click on the white "Kudos!" star below. Thank you! -
My MacBook pro won't recognize hard drive I put in it. It boots only to a white screen unless I boot to my recovery USB. If I do that then I can select my USB and my external time machine drive in the disk utility, so no problems there. But what do you think it is? It won't recognize any hard drive I put in the machine, so might it be the sata cable?
Boot the Recvoery USB, use Disk Utility to select the internal drive makers namea and size on the left.
Now select erase and select the midde option and click erase, it will take a bit to complete but it's best for the drive.
Now select Partiton tab, click the big box and Options: GUID and then Format: OS X Extended journaled and click apply.
Quit and you should be able to install OS X now with your Apple ID and password.
see
http://osxdaily.com/2011/08/08/lion-recovery-disk-assistant-tool-makes-external- lion-boot-recovery-drives/ -
I destroyed my Macbook in a car accident and have found somebody to buy it for parts. To be safe I want to make sure the Hard Drive is void of all personal information before I hand it over. What are my options?
they do sell them at best buy. I just went to the best buy website and searched for "external enclosure". Make sure it is 2.5" as that is the size of laptop hard drives, not 3.5" as that is to hold desktop hard drives.
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I have backed up my disk using Time Machine. I then deleted the back-up files from my MacBook hard drive.
I then reconnected my external hard drive and find the files I deleted from my hard drive are also deleted from
my external hard drive. Can someone tell my what what happened? I'm confused.Hello,
Time Machine is not a good way to do that, when it eventually needs more room it deletes old Backups to make room.
If you really want to keep Files but remove them from the Internal Drive, then I'd get another external drive to copy or clone them to that is not used for TM. -
My iMac suddenly can't read the backup hard drive I've been using for Time Machine. I tried unplugging the cord that connects the HD to the iMac and plugging it back in, but I still get "The disk you inserted was not readable by this computer" below which are buttons for Initialize, Ignore and Eject. I was using a cord that went from larger square plug to larger square plug. So then I tried one that went from smaller square plug to what I think is USB (thin rectangular plug) of the sort that connects the keyboard and mouse. It's the type that my printers and scanners use to connect to the iMac. I did NOT just upgrade the OS or anything. The external HD is an OWC Mercury Elite All Pro. It's worked fine since I got the iMac 4 years ago. What else can I try before just trying to initialize and
Thanks, Michael! I do hear it at times spooling up and running. Just after I bumped the thread I looked for troubleshooting for this drive online and found the manual which suggested using Disk Utility which I've seen before accidentally (if I hit Command Shift U instead of Shift U to type "Unit" on a new folder for a student's homework ) but had never really noticed. Disk Utility does see it and also a sub-something (directory?) which might be the Time Machine archives on the disk, called disk1s2), sort of the way that my iMac's hard drive shows up as 640.14 GB Nitachi HDT7... and has a sub-something titled DB iMac, which is what I named my iMac's hard drive.
Anyway the owner's manual just shows the image under the formatting section, not the troubleshooting section, but as soon as I saw it in the manual I remembered seeing it accidentally a few times, went to it, and am now verifying the disk. Right now it's telling me that it will take 2 hours to complete the verification, so I guess I have a bigt of a wait. :-)
Does that fact that Disk Utilities can see it mean it's not failed, or just that it hasn't completely failed?
I can see the virtue in having multiple redundant backups, or at least two backups. What do you suggest? Two external hard drives? I had this one linked by ethernet, and but I also have a cord that could link it by USB (like a printer), so if this one is reparable I could get a second one and link it by USB. If this one is not reparable I could get two and do the same thing. I do have an Airport so I suppose it's possible to get some sort of Wi-Fi hard drive (my new printer/scanner uses only the network and not a cable, although it has a cable that I used for the initial installation), but I'd suspect a Wi-Fi hard drive might have a higher price.
What hard drives, if any, do you recommend? I seem to recall that when I was looking at external hard drives 4 years ago, Apple's were substantially more expensive, which is why I got the OWC Mercury Elite All Pro. -
After installing the 4.09 fix to process RAW from Sony RX100 (after updating to 3.5.1), photos do not continue to load into Aperture from the external hard drive where they are referenced. The same photo is stuck in the adjustments frame to be worked on and the photos will not advance, no matter what I try, so i can work on the next one. I can only work on a few at a time and then i have to go away and come back another day. 4.09 does fix the barrel distortion but it has completely gummed up the uploading of the referenced photos. It's taking me days and weeks to process a couple of hundred photos.
The Macbook Air is a low end Macintosh for graphics apps and you are asking it to perform a heavy pro workflow using a pro application. The integrated GPU of MBAs is a serious limiter to heavy graphics. Personally I would expect flaky performance with certain operations. In general I recommend that Aperture users choose boxes with independent GPUs and capable of taking 16 GB RAM if necessary.
It will be important to carefully optimize workflow. How much RAM is in the MBA? The most Apple specs is 8 GB but you can check OWC to see if you can go to 16 GB. My Aperture/Photoshop workflow paged out at 8 GB RAM before I upgraded to 16 GB RAM.
You should evaluate whether or not you have adequate RAM:
Look at the Page Outs number under System Memory on the Activity Monitor app before starting a typical Aperture/Photoshop work session and write the number down. Recheck the Page Outs count after working for a few hours and write the number down again. If the page outs change (manual calculation of ending page outs number minus starting page outs number) is not zero your workflow is RAM-starved.
Ignore the pie charts and other info in Activity Monitor because they can be misleading regarding RAM usage. For RAM analysis, manually count page outs before and after a work session.
HTH
-Allen -
Sorry for the long title, this is the first time I have used this place.
The local Mac engineering support in Jamaica is a small shop in town. They told me I could go up to 750 gig, which appeals to me as I use this for my business. And oldie but goodie this Mac. It is upgraded in memory to 4 gig and is operating on Lion Server.
Recently I have been getting disk errors, which indicates the drive is getting too old and may fail soon.
So, before I buy I figured asking what the truth is. 750 gig? Really?Physically, the limitation is the 9.5mm drive thickess. AFAIK, most if not all 750GB HDDs have that thickess. The next size, 1TB, has the issue that many of the brands are 12.5mm thick and won't fit, but you may get lucky and find a "thin" model in this size.
Other thing to watch is the speed. 7200 vs. 5400 RPM is attractive, but the faster disks will run a tad hotter, which can be an issue in a single-fan 13"
Lastly, noise. Compare the noise ratings as published in the spec sheets. Western Digital disks, for example, are usually noisier than other brands. Perfectly nornal and does not detract in performance or longevity, but having the thing buzz at you while trying to catch a quick email check at night or watch a subdued movie may be annoying.
When you do decide and get down to doing the deed, be sure to get one of those cans of compressed air or "dusters" and thoroughly clean out the guts of the Mac. Especially around the blades of the fan, where dust tends to stick and degrade the cooling capacity of the component. -
I have a 2007 20" iMac. Can I get a solid state hard drive installed? Can the Apple store do it? How long? What cost?
Sure-glad to help you. You will not lose any data by changing synching to MacBook Pro from imac. You have set up Time Machine, right? that's how you'd do your backup, so I was told, and how I do my backup on my mac. You should be able to set a password for it. Save it. Your stuff should be saved there. So if you want to make your MacBook Pro your primary computer, I suppose, back up your stuff with Time machine, turn off Time machine on the iMac, turn it on on the new MacBook Pro, select the hard drive in your Time Capsule, enter your password, and do a backup from there. It might work, and it might take a while, but it should go. As for clogging the hard drive, I can't say. Depends how much stuff you have, and the hard drive's capacity. As for moving syncing from your iMac to your macbook pro, should be the same. Your phone uses iTunes to sync and so that data should be in the cloud. You can move your iTunes Library to your new Macbook pro
you should be able to sync your phone on your new MacBook Pro. Don't know if you can move the older backups yet-maybe try someone else, anyways,
This handy article from Apple explains how
How to move your iTunes library to a new computer - Apple Support''
don't forget to de-authorize your iMac if you don't want to play purchased stuff there
and re-authorize your new macBook Pro
time machine is an application, and should be found in the Applications folder. it is built in to OS X, so there is nothing else to buy. double click on it, get it going, choose the Hard drive in your Time capsule/Airport as your backup Time Machine and go for it. You should see a circle with an arrow on the top right hand of your screen (the Desktop), next to the bluetooth icon, and just after the wifi and eject key (looks sorta like a clock face). This will do automatic backups of your stuff. -
What to use for backups? Should I clone the drive?
I have a 100Gb hard drive and would like to know what software i should use to backup/clone. I'm still relatively new to Macs and the idea of a cloned drive isn't as feasible in the PC world. I ordered an external drive (250Gb) and will use part of it for my Mac (Can I use half for my Powerbook and half for my PC laptop?). The external drive will have firewire.
My main concern is backups with the ability to boot as an added feature. What plan should I use? I have no problem cloning the whole drive once or twice a month. Should I buy Carbon Copy, Super Duper or Deja vu? Is there something better out there? HELP!The main fear I was referring to about the drive partitioning was the possibility of drive failure, which might lose data on both partitions. Whilst loss is a relatively unlikely event, the whole idea of backing up is to give you the re-assurance that your data is safe when that 'unlikely' event happens (which it probably will when you least expect or want it to). Over the years I have learned the hard way that backups should be treated in the most safest and most conservative manner - no shortcuts. That said, the event you described is very unlikely.
You can erase and partition the drive whilst booted into OS X normally, using Disk Utility. Obviously the PC partition needs to be formatted for MS-DOS. Once erased and properly partitioned, the drive will be ready for cloning. There's no need to repeat the erase/partitioning process in the future - unless there's a problem. These tasks do not need to be performed in safe mode.
15" 1.25GHz/12" 1GHz PBs, 2xPPC Mac minis, 12" iBook G4, Mac OS X (10.4.6) Cube, 2xTAMs, iPods 2G/4G, iPs, AEBS, AX -
What now? Hard drive replaced 10 days ago but now iMac won't go beyond the grey screen.
Hard drive replaced after inability to get beyond grey, sometimes blue, screen. It's been working fine for the past ten days but now it's stuck at the grey screen. After 3 or 4 minutes, it'll restart itself and the whole cycle begins again. Did a Hardware Test from the disc. First time it appeared to have passed but again not getting beyond the grey screen, did another. This time it froze half way through. Any suggestions? This is an iMac 24", 2009 with large architectural programs installed (Vectorworks).
Not sure what to suggest at this point. I don't think a smc and pram reset will do anything useful for this case but you could give it a try as a desperation move.
If the machine could stay up long enough I would try to make a backup. If not, at least try to copy off that Vectorworks stuff on to a drive. Maybe it will stay up long enough to get just that.
By the way, if you had the AHT boot disk you should also have the installer disk. If you boot from it you could try to run Disk Utility from there to try to repair the boot drive. just in case it's only a problem of a corrupt disk.
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