What kind of hard drive should I get for video editing on my MacBook Pro

I work in film preservation, which requires a lot of rendering of DPX files. 
I currently have a late-2009 MacBook Pro.  It's having a lot  of problems such as freezing and overheating, so I think it might be best to just replace the hard drive. Any tips on ssd vs hdd for quick rendering performance? Also, the optical drive is not functional so if like to use that as extra hard drive space as well.
Don't know too much about hard drives, and I'd really appreciate any help.
Thanks in advance!

Thanks everyone,
The symptoms don't exactly correlate with the ones listed on the page about resetting the Systems Management Controller. Typically when I'm running a demanding program like After Effects or Compressor alongside Chrome, the screen will typically freeze up, though I retain control of the mouse. I can't click anything though, and it usually takes about a minute or two (after I've pressed command-option-esc) for the mac to start responding again. I think it's because I'm trying to make the mac do things it wasn't designed to do, such as run these processor-heavy programs. Lately it's also been freezing very frequently while playing Netflix. The movie just freezes, though I can still hear the sound continuing, and then in about a minute or two it will snap back to the currently playing part of the movie.
As far as overheating, I've made it possible for my mac to perform with these programs by either keeping it on an icepack or heavily ventilated with an exterior fan. It seems that after heavy bouts of using these programs though, the freezing frequency and seriousness is worse. If I don't keep the mac really well ventilated and it gets too hot, the screen just goes black, everything stops, and then in a few seconds it pops back as if nothing happened, running normally.
The model of my mac is:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2009)
MacBookPro5,5
MB991xx/A
13.3"/2.53/2X2GB/250-5400
However, I did add some more RAM when I go the computer to help it along.
Thanks again for all and any help! It's very much appreciated.

Similar Messages

  • What kind of Mac configuration should I get for video editing

    I have been using after effects and premiere pro a lot and has been experiencing lots off lag, even when I am using the Internet. What Mac configuration should I get for this type of editing?

    When I was doing more video editing, two things mattered ..... a fast CPU and lots of memory. Having the horsepower to handle activities like rendering really helps.
    On lag, while it certainly can be application-driven, you might look over this FAQ for some ideas.
    If you haven't already, you might also ask in the FCP dicussion here.  

  • What kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups etc

    what kind of external drive should I get for my macbook pro for backups and storage

    Hi, i have a Mercury Elite-AL Pro from OWC, www.otherworldcomputung.com
    this is the one;
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MEAQ7S1TB32M/
    have had this for over two years, moved around a lot with the drive, ( to date ) no problems, they have good after sales support; give them a call if you need info.
    There are a lot of drives out there as others here will let you know, there are good NAME drives but they also fail, POPULAR drives also fail, select the one you are happy with for your system and how you plan to use.
    i suggest if $ is not a problem get a big drive you will find someting to put on it and is better.
    hope this helps.

  • Which speed internal hard drive should I get for FCP editing on a Mac Book

    I am going to buy a new Mac Book Pro notebook to edit a feature documentary with FCP. My footage is all on 7200 rpm G-raid external drives. Question: should I buy the 4200 rpm, 5200 rpm, or 7200 rpm hard drive for the notebook? I really like having more hard drive space - but I want to be able to edit quickly, play back thru my deck to a television, etc as well. Editing is miniDV with typically 4 tracks video + audio. Appreciate hearing from anyone who has direct experienc and has compared.

    Instead of focusing on the internal drive, I would
    advise getting an ExpressCard/34 firewire card to
    create a second FW bus for capturing footage to the
    G-Raid externals.
    Hmm, is that better than just using the FW400 port for the camera and the FW800 port for the external harddrive?

  • What kind of hard drive do I need for my HP Pavilion dx6650us entertainment notebook PC?

    I have a HP Pavilion dx6650us entertainment notebook PC that has the BSOD. Even when I run it in SafeMode I have absolutly NO desktop. I've tried EVERYTHING. I have lost hope. So im just going to buy a new hard drive. Does anybody have ANY idea what type of hard drive I need and aprox. how much it might cost? Please let me know(: Thank you.

    It is a standard laptop 2.5 inch wide SATA hard drive like shown in this picture:
    Look at Page 9 of this Manual:
    Drive Manual
    This will show how to replace it. Do you have the recovery disks that you could have made when the laptop was new? If not you are going to have to get a Windows disk or some HP recovery disks.
    Here is a drive that would work for you.
    160 gig 7200 rpm drive for $45
    This drive will be faster than what you had and is a bit larger. A very good deal for the price. You perhaps already have a second hard drive in the system. See the manual on page 9 for the location of both hard drive bays. You could move the secondary drive (if there is one) over into the primary position without spending a nickel. In fact, that is a great idea. If you do that and still get the BSOD, then it might well be something else going on other than the hard drive. The hard drive is a likely issue but it could also be the memory and other things, too. However, I think the second drive is only found in the dx9000 models so do not be shocked if you do not have a secondary hard drive bay in your machine. I have never seen a dx6000 series but am pretty sure it is a lot like the dv6000 series of which I have seen more than my share. They have a lot of issues and I am concerned you will be spending money on a new hard drive that will not fix anything.
    Feel free to post back with issues or questions.

  • What kind of hard drive should i buy to replace the one i'm using

    I am currently using an iMac with the following:
    Processor  3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
    Memory  8 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
    Graphics  NVIDIA GeForce 9400 256 MB
    Software  OS X 10.8.5 (12F45)
    I would like to replace the hard drive which is failing but don't know which kind to buy. Can I buy a bare drive or do i need a kit?
    What brand is compatible with Mac? What type? Thanks for any help!

    christianpawlik wrote:
    At peck I do not want to create a boot drive. When it comes cleaning my os from old stuff I perfer just to restart the enitre os from the installation of os.
    Then 4G should do it (How to make a bootable Lion install disc or drive)

  • What internal hard drive should I get for a 2007 Mac Pro?

    Hello, I have a 2007 Mac Pro in which I would like to install two additional internal hard drives. I want to use one to run Time Machine and I want to use the other as an archive for my photos. What is the best internal hard drive to get for these purposes? Thanks for any help.

    System:
    SSD: Samsung 840 128GB
    http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-120GB-internal-MZ-7TD120BW/dp/B009NHAF06/
    Icy Dock $15
    http://www.amazon.com/2-5-3-5-Ssd-sata-Convert/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
    Sonnet Tempo Pro
    http://www.sonnettech.com/product/tempossdpro.html
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Sonnet%20Technologies/TSATA6SSDE/
    WD Black 1TB $85
    http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Internal-Desktop/dp/B0036Q7MV0/
    WD 3TB  $225
    Western Digital 3TB WD Black SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Desktop Hard Drive WD3001FAEX
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2UWTHE/

  • What type of internal drive should I get for my Mac Pro?

    I want to buy a large internal hard drive for my Intel Mac Pro.
    1. What type do I need to get? What do I need to look for as far as specs?
    2. Anyone know what the largest sized one I can put inside it is?
    Thanks.

    Some drives over 2.2TB started using blocks 4K in size instead of the traditional 1/2K sized blocks. That does not sound like a Big Deal, but it changes the Error Correcting Codes needed and means a new data-separation algorithm inside the drive.
    For Operating Systems, it means that you want the smallest block to be 4K instead of 1/2K, because allocating blocks on 1/2K bound will give you logical blocks that split across physical blocks, which will be s-l-o-w.
    Mac OS designers saw that stuff coming and changed the software to accomodate it. They included it with other changes in GUID partition map, which worked well at 10.4.6 and later.

  • What graphics card should I get for video editing?

    I recently purchased a G5 2.3ghz,Canon GL2 camcorder and Final Cut Express HD. Does any one have any suggestions on a good graphics card? I was thinking of buying a radeon 9800pro or would I be better off with the Radeon X800 XT.

    Hi,
    Firstly the card may work properly and the monitor may go to sleep after 1 hr or the power option (even it does not have battery) may turn the screen off after 1 hour. What is the model of your machine actually, for example the following link shows one model (HP TouchSmart 610-1150y):
       http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&​lc=en&docname=c02861058#N155
    Upgrading/replacing video card on AIO machines is relative simpler than on laptops BUT finding the RIGHT card could be very difficult. 
    Regards.
    BH
    **Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
    Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

  • What kind of virus protection should I get for my iMac?

    I tried downloading AVG, which I use for my PC laptop, but it didn't work.

    1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
    If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
    OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
    2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
    The following caveats apply to XProtect:
    It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
    It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
    3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
    Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
    It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
    A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
    An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
    For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
    4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
    5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
    That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
    Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
    A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
    Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
    Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
    Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
    Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
    Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
    6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
    Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
    Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
    Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
    Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
    7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software  ClamXav— nothing else.
    Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
    Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
    In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
    By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
    8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
    ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
    A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
    ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
    ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
    9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
    10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

  • Which internal ssd-hard drive should I get for my MacBook pro?

    I have looked at samsung 830, corsair force 3 and corsair force 3a and crucial m4 but don't which one to get all drives is around 250 gb?

    Based on posts here, I'd suggest looking at either the Samsung or Crucial. Another place to look is here:
    http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/SSD/OWC/

  • What kind of a case should I get for my video iPod?

    Hi, I want to get a case to protcet my video iPod. I have a 30 GB iPod. I was wondering what type of case works well for protecting you iPod? Does anyone have any recommendations? How musch do iPod cases cost?
    Thanks for your help,
    lizabler
    Fifth Generation iPod 30 GB
      Windows XP  

    You'll probably get a lot of opinions with iPod cases. Sometimes they are good, sometimes people report that they actually scratch an iPod.
    Some iPod cases can be found at Apple's online store:
    http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?find=ip od+case
    Be sure to click "Next" to go to the further pages to see all (or more of) the results for iPods cases.
    Also, you might want to search the Discussions for suggestions with specific iPods cases; this is a question that is asked very frequently, so you might find more answers by searching the Discussions:
    Apple - Support - Discussions - Search Results: ipod case
    Sorry I can't directly suggest any specific ones, but searching for various answers on here might really be helpful.
    -Kylene

  • I want to move my music and photos to an external hard drive from my iMac. What external hard drive should I get?

    I want to move my music and photos to an external hard drive from my iMac.  What kind of hard drive should I get?  Will it remove it from iMac and only be on external hard drive?

    How to correctly move your media:
    iTunes: How to move the library to an EHD
    iPhoto: How to move the Library to an EHD
    It is important that the External Hard Drive is formatted as Mac OS Extended (journaled).
    And also make sure that all is working to your Satisfaction before Deleting anything Off your Mac.

  • What size external hard drive do i need for Time Machine

    What size external hard drive should I get to be my Time Machine backup? My iMac is 1TB. (also, I have MBP that is 250gb and will need one for it as well)
    Thank you.

    It is better to buy an external drive that has 3 times the storage capacity
    as  of the computer's internal HD.
    Best.

  • What size external hard drive should I purchase

    What size external hard drive should I purchase?  I'm not tech savvy, so please speak slowly.  I'm looking at OWC Mini Stack Classic to match my  older Mac Mini.  Do I need 500 GB, 1 TB or more?      Plus, I have to add memory to upgrade to Snow Leopard.  How much memory do I need and should I have an expert install it ?
    Mac OSX version 10.5.8
    Mac mini 3.1
    Processor 2 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
    Memory  2GB 1067 MHz DDR3
    1 Processor
    2 Cores
    L2 Cache 3MB
    Memory 2GB
    BUS Speed 1.07 GHz
    Boot ROM Version MM3.1.0081.B06
    SMC version 1.35f0
    Hard Drive
    Format MAC OS Extended
    Capacity 297.77 GB
    Available 238.69 GB
    Used 59.08 GB on disk

    Good points raised by all.
    In my mini configs - both older and newer flatter model - I have kept their ministack external drive on top of the mini; with 3 or 4 little rubber feet added to the mini's base to give it a bit more elevation from the surface they are sitting on and a bit better chance to breathe. I'm not impressed by the very small air intakes on the bottom and the hot air that often comes out the back or how warm the case feels. Especially in the heat of summer.
    I do turn the ministacks on/off as needed (primarily for backups once a week) as they're not entirely quiet and sometimes seem to have a low hum vibration. Nothing crazy. I just like it as dead quiet as possible sometimes. Plus the fan does not turn off even if the mini and ministack drive have shut down.  The newer wide & slim model does seem a bit quieter than the older model.
    Check through system profiler to see if your system has 2x1GB or 1x2GB. Most likely it is 2x1GB and you'd need to remove both to double your ram. On the off chance it has a free slot; a single 2GB stick would get you to 4GB. Check on the cost difference between the 2x2GB kit and a 2x4GB kit.  I have an older core duo mini that functions fine with 2x2GB of RAM and 10.6.8. But, if you plan to continue to use the mini for several more years as a primary machine including upgrading the OS to Yosemite; it might not be a bad idea to just max it to 2x4 8GB. Yosemite really likes RAM to maximize performance.
    Along the lines of keeping the same mini and doing upgrades. The biggest speed improvements are made by replacing the original internal hard drive with a flash drive. Of course this is a more technical upgrade, you really need to take the mini apart more and you have to weigh the cost of the upgrades and possibly paying somebody to do them; vs the cost of a newer system which would have a significantly faster processor and other improvements.

Maybe you are looking for