What kind of security cable do I need to purchsare for a MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

Looking to purchase a security cable for a MacBook Pro, any suggestions?

Hi murf710,
If you are interested in a security cable for your MacBook Pro, you may find the items listed under the "Locks" catagory on the Apple Online Store helpful:
Apple Online Store - Locks
http://store.apple.com/us/search/locks
Regards,
- Brenden

Similar Messages

DO I need Anti-Virus for my Macbook Pro w/Retina Display?

I am currently awaiting a MacBook Pro w/Retina Display and I am having an ongoing discussion with some work colleagues, since the Flashback Trojan appeared to infiltrate Mac's back in early 2012... DO I need Anti-Virus.. My argument is no, but everybody elses is yes!
I would love to see some indepth feedback to send my PC lovers running!
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Joe

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "archive extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software are likely to be infected.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
5. Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install one unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, even supposing that they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. Windows malware attachments in email are almost always easy to recognize without computer assistance.
8. The greatest danger posed by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is its effect on human behavior. When people install such software, which does little or nothing to protect them from emerging threats, they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

What exactly does the AppleCare cover for MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

I purchased the extended protection plan for my MacBook Pro with Retina Display 15" and my question is what exactly does it cover in what kind of situations (i.e. viruses, damaged ports, damaged charger, etc.)? I want to be able to take full advantage of the protection plan since it was a pretty big whole in my wallet.

AppleCare covers all the problems you have with your MacBook Pro with Retina display and the peripherals which came with it (your charger) if you have a hardware problem that you didn't cause. For example, after 2 or 3 years and 1000 charges, OS X says that your battery has to be replaced: in this case, you have to pay for the battery, because batteries have got a lifetime, and Unibody Macs batteries have got an average lifetime of about 1000 charges.
However, if the RAM gets damaged and you haven't done anything to cause it, you will get your computer repaired or replaced for free. AppleCare in a MacBook Pro with Retina display is very important, because near all the parts are soldered into the logic board and repairs are expensive

After Security updation of Windows 7 in Boot Camp (Mac Book Pro with Retina Display) on 13-Nov-2013, Windows 7 Desktop Gadgets are not working properly.

After Security updation of Windows 7 in Boot Camp (Mac Book Pro with Retina Display) on 13-Nov-2013, Windows 7 Desktop Gadgets are not working properly.
This is boot camp problem, because in other normal notebooks (e.g. SONY VAIO, Lenovo with Windows 7) the gadgets are working normally.
I am attaching the screen shot of Desktop Gadgets and Security updates of Windows 7.
Kindly solve this issue ASAP.
Shailendra Gupta
<edited by host>

You are not addressing Apple, but a community of unpaid volunteers. So ASAP won't cut it. Also, you should refrain from posting personal information (like your email address) in the body of your comments, as this is part of the community usage guidelines.
Have you reinstalled the latest Boot Camp Windows 7 drivers, just in case Microsoft overwrote some of them during the Windows 7 security update?
If you want to communicate issues with Apple about Boot Camp and OS X, click on the link. Just don't hold your breath on receiving a response.

Will the Thunderbolt to Gigabyte ethernet cable connect my Macbook Pro with Retina Display to a Hotel Wired Internet Service?

Will the Thunderbolt to Gigabyte ethernet cable connect my Macbook Pro with Retina Display to a Hotel Wired Internet Service?

Yes, You may also need an ethernet cable.

HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?

I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.

To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace

What is the factory set password for the administrator for a macbook pro 13" retina display?

what is the factory set password for the administrator for a macbook pro 13" retina display?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
Macs don't come with a password. You have to set up the password during the initial setup. If you have forgotten your password, follow these steps to reset your password > http://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4101

What is Apple's official plan for future battery replacement in the Macbook Pro with Retina Display?

What is Apple's official plan for future battery replacement in the Macbook Pro with Retina display?

No one here works for Apple nor does Apple visit this message board. We are all end users like yourself helping each other out.
"Official" Apple "replacement" announcements will be listed on their website and possibly on their Knowledge Base website.
Check the All Programs website too.

What is the tax percentage on the Macbook Pro with Retina Display in the US

I am interested in buying the new Macbook Pro with Retina Display. I would just like to know what the tax percentage of the price is when buying in the US???

The price quoted does not include tax which is determined by the state/city where sold. There is not a Federal tax as in Europe with the VAT.
State taxes can run 3-10% or somewhere in that range.

What kind of longevity can I expect from the SSD in a new MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

Hi all,
I recently ordered a new MacBook Pro with the Retina Display. This will be both my first computer and my first Mac that uses a SSD as the primary storage device. As the title of this post suggests, what I would like to know is what sort of lifespan/longevity can I expect to get out of it? My current MacBook Pro was manufactured in 2007 and has a stock 160GB Fujitsu hard drive that has been fantastic for me over the past 4-5 years. It continues to run like a champ, and I would hope that a brand new SSD would be able to last at least that long. Given that the new retina MBPs cannot be upgraded or (easily) user-serviced, I am somewhat curious to know whether or not Apple's new proprietary SSD modules will give out/slow to a crawl before/after my new machine becomes completely obsolete. I have been searching for articles published within the past few months on whether or not the current crop of SSDs on the market are more reliable than those introduced a year or two ago, but alas, I haven't had much luck. Perhaps it is still too early to tell?
I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.

ARealMac(PPC)User wrote:
...I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.
While I think your concern is legitimate (it was mine too), I think to some extent, how long they last will be up to you. The individual cells in the flash media in an SSD have limited life spans, and SSD controllers have a variety of techniques to spread that wear around evenly (wear leveling). That wear is exacerbated by the controller having to erase a whole block of data when even just one page needs to be changed, and if not all the data in the block is still valid, more data than necessary gets moved (write amplification). To provide some extra room for all this reshuffling of data, SSD manufacturers build in extra space that's inaccessible to the user (over-provisioning), but it typically runs about 7%. (This is a good discussion of the inner workings of all this)
If you stuff your SSD full of files, so that there's very little room to do all this rearranging, I think you'll experience the slowdown you're concerned about. TRIM, which Apple's SSD's support, will help, but you can too. Allow plenty of free space on your SSD and perhaps partition it so that there is free space outside the partition (check this out to see what a difference it can make). You can't use it but the controller can as an extension of the built-in over-provisioning.
You also mention that you "will most likely use it to record several tracks and store my growing library of songs and videos." Why not instead use an external SSD connected via USB 3.0 for storage? They're relatively cheap, very fast, and keep the space on your internal working drive free. A BootCamp partition would also take up space, so you might consider using Windows in a Virtual Machine instead. VMware Fusion or Parallels would be installed on the internal SSD but the virtual machine files could go on the external.
In any case, your data is more important than your SSD, so back up, back up, back up.

Are there any little known tweaks I need to make on my Macbook Pro w/ Retina display after installing Windows?

Just bought a 2013 Macbook Pro w/ Retina, SSD hard drive, NVidia card....created a partition and installed Windows 8 with Bootcamp 5 to run my Steam games. My friend was telling me there are minor changes you need to make to the BIOS, don't defragment (or you'll ruin your SSD), and little things like that you have to watch out for. Can anyone tell me if there are minor changes I need to make on my computer to either help it run better, prevent damage, etc.--if so how? Please post links if you have them. Thanks!

You can sometimes find larger capacity Retina 'daughter card' flash storage devices on eBay - but, like the OWC solution, they don't come cheap. So, as you've deduced, your best (yet not overly inexpensive, either) bet is a fast external drive. The fastest external drives would have Thunderbolt connections - I've two of LaCie's 2big Thunderbolt drives (one 4TB and one 8TB) and they're nice and fast, but not cheap.
If I were you, I would head over to MacMall and search for Thunderbolt drives: they come with a variety of option in a variety of storage space.
That's going to be your fastest solution, even if not highly portable.
Good luck,
Clinton

Macbook Pro with Retina Display gets update? what about us?

I mean... What about us... the loyal customers who bought the Macbook at its original price and added upgrade when we could've waited for this new price and the ram update and processor update... no price change? Is Apple going to somehow "payback" the people who basically paid more for the same thing? I don't know why I'd expect this but it certainly would be nice to give us something... Apple just ripped me off... could've waited and saved about $500?

I totally feel you! Also bought my 13" MBP Retina very recently - do not even have it for 6 weeks! And I do understand and know that pricedrops happen a lot in the high-tech industry.. over a longer period of time! The 13" Retina has been out for how long..? Not even 4 full months! This is ridiculous! I call this *bleeping* your (loyal) early adapters. And Apple of all companies in this industry should know how important these (loyal) customers are.
It's not like you just bought an iPhone 4s which is already on the market for 8 months and then the iPhone 5 is presented for the same price. And that would be to expected because you know every year this is going to happen. No, this is like buying an €1800 MacBook Pro Retina 13" which is just brand new on the market for not even 4 months and then see your exact same precious product DROPS in price with €250! That is a whole different story and no one could have expected this move from Apple. It's like a stab in the back!

HT1237 My MacBook Pro with Retina Display won't boot nor charge after updating to SMC Update v1.1. What do I do?

I updated my MacBook Pro Retina 15" with the SMC Update v1.1. Everything went well with the installation, and it has successfully been installed amd restarted. After quite awhile, I shut down my MBP. Then when I tried to open it again, nothing happens. I kept on pressing the power button, even tried the shift+alt+ctrl+power, but nothing happens. My battery was on full charge, but when I tried to plug it into power, the LED of the MagSafe doesn't light up as well. What should I do?

I had the same issue and had to take it to the Apple Store and it was sent to the repair depot to get fixed. Supposedly they had to replace the logic board. Some posts reflect the fact that in other cases the battery was removed then reinserted by Apple technicians to fix the problem. There are many who have reported the same issue after this SMC Update and the only fix to the problem for MacBook Pro Retina owners is to have it serviced by Apple.

What cable do I need in order to migrate from Macbook Pro (December 2008) to the new Macbook Pro with Retina display?

It's driving me crazy; I have a firewire, but it isn't compatible with the ports on the new macbook pro with retina display.
Thanks for your help!

hanskra wrote:
I wish to know from Apple,
These are user-to-user forums where everyday folk post "technical" questions and offer answers to each other voluntarily. No one here works for Apple nor does Apple get involved in responding.
You can either contact Apple Care since you are still under warranty or click on the "Contact Us" link at the bottom of this website.

What is best non-apple display for 15 inch macbook pro with retina display?

I am looking for a good and reasonably priced monitor to use with my MBP retina. I prefer one that rotates 90 degrees for portrait viewing. Any suggestions?
What adapter is needed to get good quality? Is the dual link adapter worth $100? Is it very much clearer than DVI? How does the HDMI connection compare? I've heard that HDMI only works as an external display in clamshell mode (computer closed). Does HDMI transmit sound and video or would I need two cords?
Thanks for any help!

The dual-link adapter is needed only for resolutions over 1920 x 1200. It won't improve the picture of lower resolution displays.
HDMI carries audio and video (up tp 1920 x 1200).
DVI (single or dual-link) is video only.
Mini DisplayPort (or DisplayPort with an adapter cable) is audio and video (up to 2560 x 1600).
All will give the same picture quality.

What kind of security cable do I need to purchsare for a MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

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