What monitor is the best for gauging what the printed document will look like?

I am working on a 300+ page book that contains a lot of photos that I have converted from color to grayscale in photoshop. I am using a laptop computer and I cannot judge the quality of the photos on this laptop monitor. What is the best monitor for gauging what the finished product will look like? It is a hardcover book that will be offset printed. I do not know if this particular printer uses computer-to-plate technology or if it is "old style." Thanks!

If you are talking about judging the tonality of the grayscale images there are 2 color profiles that affect the display of a grayscale image. The monitor's profile-- the profile that is created when the monitor is calibrated and describes your monitor's display. And the gray profile that is assigned to the image, if no gray profile is assigned Photoshop's working gray profile is used. By default it is 20% Dot Gain. The accuracy of your grayscale image display depends on how accurate your monitor profile is and the accuracy of the gray profile. You can choose the default 20% Dot Gain but it might not be the press profile.

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What kind of monitor is best for judging what the printed image will look like?

I am working on a 300+ page book that contains a lot of photos that I have converted from color to grayscale in photoshop. I am using a laptop computer and I cannot judge the quality of the photos on this laptop monitor. What is the best monitor for gauging what the finished product will look like? It is a hardcover book that will be offset printed. I do not know if this particular printer uses computer-to-plate technology or if it is "old style." Thanks!

helotes115 wrote:
What is the best monitor for gauging what the finished product will look like?
A good one...like for example this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?N=11083422&InitialSearch=yes&sts=pi
You need to set your calibration parameters very carefully. Eizo ColorNavigator (and NEC Spectraview) are the only calibrators that give you full control of the calibration parameters, because they communicate directly with the monitor. Hence my recommendation of the CS240, which is the least expensive model in this market segment. Excellent value for money.
Set the white point so that it is a visual equivalent to paper white, both in luminance and color. A little experimenting is necessary. Start around 100 cd/m² and 6300K, and adjust as needed. Ambient light affects your perception, which is why no fixed numbers can be given.
Even more important: set a realistic black point. Monitor manufacturers love to boast huge contrast ranges, like 1000:1 and so on. Impressive on paper, but in reality there's no way you'll get those deep blacks in print. Especially not offset print.
My starting point for offset is 0.5 cd/m², but often that turns out to be too low and I end up with 0.6 or even 0.7. This depends a lot on the paper stock.
Next, ask the printer what CMYK profile is used for the actual process. Here in Europe, that's most likely ISO Coated v2 300% (eci) or Coated FOGRA39, in other parts of the world it will be something else. Use Photoshop to soft proof to this profile. Again, the Eizo is wide gamut and covers ISO Coated almost 100%. A standard gamut monitor will be a lot less useful for soft proofing.
With a little experience and effort, you can get close to 100% reliable prediction on screen.

How to expect what my print job will look like?

I had a colored picture that I wanted to print. My printer is white and black. I wanted to see how the black and white will look like before actually printing it. I used a free online service to convert to black and white before printing. Any other way to do that?

The place to set black and white probably depends to some extent on your printer and possibly the application you are printing from. Here is how it worked for me when printing from Safari:
I had to click the dropdown that says "Safari" here (toward the lower right):
From there, I chose "Print Settings" and could then check the "Greyscale" box as shown here:
Your settings may well vary depending on your printer.

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Hi,
I recorded a concert with 2 cameras:
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I know that the end product will be in SD, but is there way to preview which camera's footage looks better in SD? The XL1 in native SD, or the HF11 from HD->SD?
Thanks!

No, just needed someone to jog my brain back from 'brainfart' status.
I'll export a short clip of each.
You're probably right- comes down to the lenses.

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Run 64 bit Photoshop all the time.
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Is there any quick and dirty way to determine what something will look like

Hi,
Is there any way (rule of thumb) to determine what something will look like when printed.
for example.
I am doing a composite (hope this is the right word). It will have some people sitting at a table and I want to have another layer with another picture behind it.
I plan for the output to be fairly small (print size), say 4 x 5 or whatever.
Now, if I go to the internet and google (or mamma.com) and search for images (large) and it comes back to me, I will see pictures that are (for example) 800 x 526 pixels 367 kb, or 940 x 480 pixels 166 kb.
I would have to assume the 367 kb will print at better resolution, but if i liked the 166 kb picture better, is there a quick and dirty way to determine if it would print better (say 250 or 300 dpi or whatever) or not?
So, bottome line,
Assume my output picture will be 4 x 5 (and I want 300dpi (or is it ppi)
How do quickly look at google results and determing if they will print ok?
Bob

The closest to a one click fix in photoshop cs-cs5 is
Image>Adjustments>Shadow/Highlight or opening the
image through camera raw and using the recovery slider.
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSfd1234e1c4b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-765da.h tml
MTSTUNER

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You will need to file a feature request for that.
We used to have something similar in Premiere 6.5 and earlier.
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Missed that feature in the beginning, now I don't anymore.
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any plugins that do this?

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Please authorize ADE 3 with same credentials that you used with older version of ADE

What monitor is the best for gauging what the printed document will look like?

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