What resolution do still photos have to be to be imported into FCP X

I am using stills in a video. What resolution and what dimensions do they have to be before importing them into FCP X?

SSpatial conform sets how the media is sized when placed in a project. The help files and manual will the explain the details.
Sill till images are not video. They need to be rendered for true video playback. Set playback to best quality rather than better performance.

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I have already assigned photos from iPhoto to folders in Pictures on the Mac using the instructions from Adobe. How do i now move more recent photos from iPhoto without duplication and import into Lightroom?

I have already assigned photos from iPhoto to folders in Pictures on the Mac using the instructions from Adobe. How do i now move more recent photos from iPhoto without duplication and import into Lightroom?

If the images are in the location you want them be sure to select "Add" at the top of the import dialog box.

Can you choose your photos from your computer to be imported into your iPhone?

Unfortunately I do not have a Mac computer. I have a Windows 7 computer. I have some select photos that I want to be imported into my iPhone so I can use them as a wallpaper background. Last time I imported pictures from my computer to my iPhone, I got the whole folder of photos, which I did not want to happen.

I forgot to mention about Videos also. Can I choose videos I've taken with iTouch in the computer to be imported into my iPhone?

Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

Resolution for Still Photos for film

Greetings,
I have a full length Digital Video film and want to add still photos to it. I have been using Photo to Movie software to add a Ken Burns effect to the photo, then exporting it under the movie format- DV(NTSC) 720x480, then importing that to the final cut time line. My question is what is the best resolution in the first place for the still photo before I do this process or is it okay to use the final render size from the Photo to Movie export? Or do you have a better idea.

I would suggest you to check your export preferences but it is my understanding that if you render the movie file, and then export, it you should be able to set the QT option for NTSC DV.

What resolution should my photos be in Premiere Elements?

Photos make great source files for a Premiere Elements project, but you’ll find the highest quality results and the best performance from the program if the sizes of your photos are properly optimized before you bring them into your project. We urge you to make sure that any photo you use (especially if you use several in a slideshow) has been resized to no larger than 1000x750 pixels before you bring it into your Premiere Elements project to ensure the best quality and optimal program performance. (Photos taken directly from digital cameras can be 20 to 25 times that size!)
At first this may seem to go contrary to common wisdom. Traditionally, the higher the resolution of your photo, the better the quality of the output. But remember that Premiere Elements is a video editing program, and video is a relatively low resolution medium (essentially the equivalent of 640x480 pixels). And, to a point, reducing the resolution of a photo or graphic to be used in a video actually improves the quality of the video output. (1000x750 pixels seems to be that point)
The reason for this has to do with a process called downsampling, the system a video program uses to bring high-resolution photos down to video size. Premiere Elements does a fair job of this – but, as any pro knows, nothing that happens automatically will be as clean or as efficient as what you do manually. “Down-rezzing” is definitely one of these things.
There’s also a more pressing reason for downsampling your photos yourself. The process of “down-rezzing”, like the process of assimilating non-DV-AVI files into a video project, is a very intensive process. So intensive, in fact, that it’s the single biggest reason Premiere Elements fails, particularly during the disc burning process.
It takes a lot longer for the program to down-rez a 4000x3000 pixel photo than it does a 1000x750 pixel photo. Many, many times longer. And would you rather wait an hour or two for the program to transcode your DVD or 10 hours for a process that might end up with the program choking and dying anyway?
Photoshop Elements, by the way, has a very nice batch resizing feature that can resize a whole folder full of photos in just a few clicks. You’ll find it under the program’s File drop-menu, listed as Process Multiple Files.
For high-definition video, you can increase the size of the photos to 2000x1500 -- although you should be aware that this will require much more processing time and computer power than standard definition video.

Rene,
For the ultimate viewing on an HD TV, one is best to do a BD Project and then burn to a BD (Blu-ray Disc). Going to any SD format, like DVD-Video will result in having the material up-rezed to fit. This will work to varying degrees of success, and will depend very heavily on the set-top player's uprezing capabilities, plus on the settings on the TV, as well. There WILL be quality compromises, when viewing and SD Project on an HD player and TV.
Even with HD Projects, one is best to size the still images as closely, as is possible, to the Frame Sizes in that Project's Preset, say to only a bit more than 1920 x 1080, if that is the Preset chosen for the HD (BD) Project. Here's a LINK to the accepted HD formats.
This ARTICLE will give tips on resizing of stills before Import. Now, the sizes listed are SD, but it's easy to "do the math" to get to a BD Project Preset size.
Good luck, and hope that this helps,
Hunt

What resolution are ipad photos? The ones you take with the iPad itself.

i'm trying to find out at what resolution ipad photos taken on the iPad are stored at. When I send them to myself and choose the largest size possible on the email, they are only 72 dpi. I thought there was an option for 300 dpi?
THanks!

I have a fourth generation iPad...I tried both email and direct download. The photos are largish - 26 inches in width but the dpi is 72. As far as I can tell, that' sustain how it is, I can't seem to find any solid info on it. Thanks for trying, I appreciate it

What size should still photos be so no cropping or stretching occurs?

Hi, I want to prepare photos for a slideshow in iMovie HD. What size
should the photos be so no cropping or stretching occurs??
It's the photo prep that is a problem. The photos are like scrapbook
layouts done in Photoshop. They have edges, like borders that I do
not want cropped. I want them to fit exactly. I tested a 12x8 size
and it is letterboxed in iMovie.
I wish I knew the dimensions in iMovie so I can make my photos that
exact size. I have looked everywhere!
Also, I am doing this slideshow to be shown during the half-time show at a
charity football game. They said they need it in AVI format. I
suppose I just make a DVD with the movie as an .AVI exported from iMovie
or via QT.
Thanks!

If you want no black borders to the imported still images in 4:3 video projects, their aspect ratio must be NTSC 720x528 or PAL 788x576 or some larger multiple of those figures (NTSC 1024x751, 2048x1502, 2095x1536 etc, or PAL 1024x749, 2048x1497, 2101x1536 etc).
If you want no black borders to the imported still images in 16:9 video projects, their aspect ratio must be NTSC 875x480 or PAL 1050x576 or some larger multiple of those figures.
See also:
http://www.sjoki.uta.fi/~shmhav/iMovieHD_6bugs.html#stills

Resolution of still photo

What size files are best to import still photos into Imovie from Iphoto. I work from raw in Photoshop, import to Iphoto and then Imovie. When I go to play the still photos the images look like ****, as opposed to the images in Iphoto. These photos come from a large file size so why do they look like a pixel puzzle when they are fine in Iphoto slide show?

Welcome to the forum, Stanley.
There are lots of factors that can affect image quality. Including the possibility is that the quality is fine but iMovie doesn't let you see it.
You might find some ideas here:
http://discussions.info.apple.com/webx?128@@.68abff87
Karl

Can you make still photos have a 3D "look" in Motion 5?

Hello All,
I don't mean 3D like the kind you need to see with blue and red glasses, I mean that technique where you can make different objects in the still photo appear as if the camera is moving passed them.
If this can be done in Motion 5 does anyone here know of a good tutorial?
Thanks for your help.
Mike

Michael Ryan. wrote:
… Can this be used on video? (I have some old film I would like to touch up).…
no, sorry, me lost in translation:
I meant, if you have to do some graphics FOR, not with video (arrows, titles, UFOs, masks), Pixelmator is an excellent tool.
spicing up old film ...
a) it IS old … so, why not keeping it looking 'old'?
b) I was lately allowed to use NEAT Video .... I had to use some badly worse compressed arial TV recordings.avi in a HDef project (LOL!) - and that Neat filter did marvel! it didn't only reduced 'noise', it made it vanish. ok, if you exaggerate, the picture gets a 'flat', posterized look. Neat is actually offering a Home edition for 49$ - that's a snap.
c) usually, if you use M5, you're using FCPX too - its filters and the Color-'board', wisely used, allow to push faded colors and contrasts very easy = I'm no professional color-grader, but the Color Correction tools are dead easy (deeper shadows? 'deepen'/lower low tones. less orange? drag 'pointer' to orange, low that … etc really 'real life logic', not some weird tech-lingo .... )
for beginners like me, this is my source
http://www.colorgradingcentral.com/final-cut-pro-x-color-grading-table-of-conten ts

What to do when photos can't be read on import?

This issue has been discussed recently, however, I have tried everything that has been suggested and the issues still isn't solved. I have used LR from LR3 to LR 5.4. I have had no problems until yesterday when I got the error message that the photos, which I could see initially, could not be read. I tried connecting the camera directly and got the same message. I then downloaded a few of he photos on my card into iPhoto; this worked perfectly. So, I tried uploading to Lightroom from a file in Pictures . . . got the same message.
This is what I have tried:
1) The obvious; restarting my computer.
2). Making sure my read/write permissions were set correctly
3). Recalibrating my monitor with Spyder Pro because it as said the calibration could have become corrupt and LR was particularly sensitive to this kind of corruption.
3). Closing LR, Click option Go to Library, Preferences (/Users/[user name]/Library/Preferences/com.adobe.Lightroom5.plist) AND delete, rename or remove this: com.adobe.Lightroom5.plist. The promise was that the file would be recreated when LR opened the next time. I did this. I deleted the file, emptied my trash and then opened LR. Indeed, a new file replaced the one deleted . . . BUT I put in my memory card and tried again to import the photos. I got the same message -- the files cannot be read.
I am losing precious work time and don't know what to do next. If I could uninstall LR and reload it, I would try it. However, LR has no uninstaller and I'm not at all confident that moving it to the trash and reloading it would do any good at all. Does anyone have any other ideas to try? I love doing my post processing with LR and I don't want to give up on it!

It is possible that resetting your preferences, by deleting the plist file, set the last-remembered import panel destination to somewhere not writable, masking the original issue, but the solution is still the same, set your Import Copy-as-DNG Destination folder to a known place that has writable permissions.
Here is what the Copy as DNG destination is on my Import panel--something I never do so it's still the default user library Pictures folder, as compared to yours which appears to be the root of your Macintosh HD which may not be writable:
BTW, the solution to import problems that involves creating a new display profile is for when the imports work but the import grid thumbnails and perhaps thumbnails and previews of the images already imported into LR are gray boxes instead of showing the actual image content. This is a different situation than you are facing, it seems, but rebuilding a new display profile wouldn't hurt anything, either.

There is a grey box surrounding what i select then i have to double click to go into it...how do i get rid of that on my itouch?

when i try to click on anything on my touch it gets first highlighted with a grey box then i have to double tap to get into it or to scroll i have to double tap and hold before i can slide. i want this gone, can anyone help me???

Hi poiuytrew190,
You have VoiceOver turned on. To turn it off, go to Settings > General > Accessibility > VoiceOver and set the switch to OFF.
Hope this helps,
O.C.

How do you prepare still images before importing into FCP?

I'm working on a WWI documentary, so there are a lot of photos that need to be imported. Also each image needs to have movement set to them. The images are in a few different formats: JPEG, GIF, TIFF and PDF's. Their file sizes range from 28 KB - 102 MB. I thought of importing them into Photoshop, where I can resize and save as a PNG file. Then I thought I could open the images in Motion, put movement on the images and export each image as a quicktime file using compressor. My settings in FCP are as follows: AJA Kona LH: 525 29.97 Apple ProRes 422 (HQ). Frame size is 720x486. Does anyone know which is the best way to prepare images before importing them into FCP? Does anyone have a different workflow that works better?

Just make sure that they are bigger than 720x486 if you intend to be doing moves on them. an 28KB? As MASTER pics? Way too small...those will look like crud. But if you can make the images larger, about twice as large as your canvas, then you are fine.
Tutorial.
Movement on Stills
Shane

Backup/Copied Photos won't be recognized or imported into iPhoto library

I recently backup all data to usb hard disk and do a fresh installation of 10.6, and I accidentally create a whole new account w/ different user name (and I don't know whether it might cause any of my problems).
After I copied all my data backup, everything is so OK except all my pictures (jpg files mostly) in ~/Pictures folder won't be recognizable either by quicklook, preview or iPhoto. Also all my 14G iPhoto Library won't work. The files are still here but it just become not recognizable, can not be opened or imported into iPhoto. It told me that "the file is in an unrecognized format", but how could a jpg format not recognized by a MAC?
I updated iLife & iPhoto to latest version, and rebooted my laptop, but nothing changed. I know there might be chances that my pictures got damaged during transferring from hard disk to usb disk, but isn't it too weird that as I drag all my documents, movies, music and pictures at the same time all other files remained unchanged yet ALL my photos (including iPhoto Library) just all of sudden crashed together at the same time?
I am exhausted and can not figure out any posible reason, and would be very appreciated that if someone might suggest any methods, maybe even a clue. plz, plz, plz.........
Message was edited by: Kelip

if I directly double click "iPhoto Library" (which has a plain text like icon preview, not so colorful iphoto library style...), it tells me I should choose the app I wanna open it. After iPhoto chosen and opened, nothing happened, no photos in iPhoto main windows (events, faces, ..., all empty).
I aslo try "show package contents" and locate the exact photos' location in "iPhoto Library", which I believed should be in "iPhoto Library/Original/", all the photos in there could not be quicklook, opened by preview, Photoshop, etc. And the error msg says something like "format unrecognized" stuffs
Message was edited by: Kelip

Changing photos to 4:3 DV for importing into iMovie

Is there a way to change all of the photos I want to import into iMovie so I can make a slideshow? I realize that it's important to change the photos so I don't experience jaggies in iMovie but it's a pain to change each one individually. Thanks for the feedback.

Unfortunately there's no batch crop capability in iPhoto. If your photos are not in the standard digital camera 4:3 ratio you'll need to crop them accordingly. If they were then you can do a batch resize to the necessary 720 x 540 pixels for standard video in NTSC format while exporting to a folder on the desktop. Then use those in iMovie.
If you try to resize a non 4:3 image file to 4:3 it will keep the width and cut a little of the top and bottom. You may lose something you didn't want to that way. It's best to crop to the 4:3 yourself to make sure you get what you want.

What resolution do still photos have to be to be imported into FCP X

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