What's the best rate on apple 50hz or 60hz
Anyone know ta
Usually the one that matches the TV frequency in your region, i.e. 50 for PAL regions and 60 for NTSC regions.
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What is the best modem for apple tv?
What is the best modem and router for my new apple tv? I also have a playstation & laptop hooked up.
You modem is controled by your ISP. It does not matter what kind it is. If you already have other devices connected to it then you do not need any special hardware for ATV.
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I have not bought the iMac yet but will do so very soon and just want to make sure I have what I need to get everything setup including adding the old faithful 2005 30" cinema display. Currently I am driving the old 30" cinema display with a macbook pro also purchased 2005 and happy to say I got a lot of good miles out of this rig. What's the best way to connect the old 30" monitor as a second display for the new generation iMacs?
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I can find online new in unopened box a 2012 iMac 27" i7 with 1T Fusion Drive for $1899 no sales tax. This seems like a pretty good deal since I notice the same is available from Apple refurbished for $100 more plus sales tax. I know that they say the Fusion drive is a lot faster on 2013 models but some of the speed tests I reviewed online showed the 2012 i7 and 2013 i7 very close on speed for both storage and processing. Any thoughts?
I don't like changing batteries so I would buy a separate Apple keyboard with numeric pad since it only comes with wireless keyboard. I'm a trackpad enthusiast having been using my macbook pro trackpad with current set up; and I am prepared to buy the Apple trackpad and replace batteries every 2 months but I would greatly prefer USB connection and rechargeable trackpact. I know Logitech makes one so if anyone is using and knows how it compares to Apple's I'm all ears.<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5891>
You can use USB for the Apple trackpad.
<http://www.mobeetechnology.com/the-power-bar.html> -
What is the best way for a family to set up apple ID's and icloud?
My partner and I have separate apple id's and own a mac book, ipad, 2 iphones and apple tv. What's the best way to set it all up so we can access everything on each device? Can we merge our ID's into one and transfer all our payments? We just registered for icloud and used a new shared email address, but still have our separate apple ID's. We have separate email addresses, calendars and notes that we would prefer to keep separate. It's really just our itunes purchases, music and photos that we want to be able to share. Thanks in advance! Cheers, Nicky
They will be able to download everything that was bought with their Apple ID. If they all shared an ID then they switched to their own ID they won't be able to use any apps or music bought with another Apple ID. As I explained in my previous response. There is only one way to share apps and content across multiple Apple ID's and that is home share. So, NO there isn't a "Smooth" way to do it.
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I have lightroom 5.7. Now I have apple TV to connect my Mac to the TV scree. I wish to do a slide show on the TV. However, on the Mac, using ITunes to share photos with the TV, I cannot locate all photo files. What is the best way to save the slide show and put it where the Mac sharing can find it? So far, I made on one folder in Lightroom, put some photos there and I found them easily. Can this be done with a slide show? Please help quickly! Also worried that the photos I put on the new folder are hard to find afterwards, when the show is done. Where do they go when I delete from from the new folder?I am not alone
Not that I'm aware of. You just export JPEG copies to a folder that you can point iTunes to. For instance, I have created a folder in my Pictures folder called Apple TV. And within that folder I have other folders of pictures that I can choose from in iTunes to share with Apple TV. But there doesn't seem to be any way to share a Lightroom slideshow. If you have laid to create a video file that would probably work. Apple TV is a little clunky in my opinion. Some things are a little more difficult to do now than they were a while back. I probably haven't provided you with much help, but just keep experimenting and I think you will figure it out.
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our granddaughter has a ipod. She's getting a iphone and a mini idpad. what is the best way to set them up. Does she need a new apple id and password or would she use the same one she has for her ipod
Just use the same one on all devices.
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What's the best way to manage Apple IDs for multiple devices?
Hi,
We have
a shared Macbook air
a shared iPad
my iPhone
his iPhone
We want to put one ID on the Macbook and iPad that we can use to have the same iMessage on both and that we can put a card on and use in the iTunes store etc.
We also want to have our own iMessages on our iPhones, plus be able to use the account with the cards on them to purchase and share across devices...
What's the best way to manage them all?Welcome to the Apple Community.
iTunes is straight forward, just use the same ID on all of them.
What exactly do you want to see in messages on the Mac and iPad, messages combined from each of your phones or a different account just for both of you.
You should think about what you want in calendars, contacts etc, on your shared devices. -
So have iPad mini and iPhone. But I'd like to leave my iPad with my partner whilst I'm in hospital so we can FaceTime each other.
What's the best way of setting this up!http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4319
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What's the best way to run 2 apple IDs on the same MacBook at the same house?
What I'd like to do...
I have a family MacBook using a time capsule as its HD. This is where I store our music and movies on iTunes. I have iTunes match, a new iPad, iPhone 4S in my apple ID. My wife has iPhone 4 and new iPad in her apple ID. And we have an apple TV set up in my ID.
I want content we both buy on our own IDs on our own iOS devices to be available to share from the MacBook's iTunes. Also for my wife to be able to use iTunes match to download the music content from our joint MacBook (Time Capsule HD).
Is this possible and how?
Or if not what is the best work around?iTunes Match can not be shared between iTunes Store IDs. In fact, it can not even be shared on the same computer in the set up you have. For her iDevices she would need to sign into your iTunes Store ID to use iTM and would not be able to switch accounts for 90 days. The only way you would be able to have her music available to iTM would be for you to add it all to your iTunes library.
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I purchased a MBP 13.3/2.5/8GB/128GB FLASH from Apple store in Manhattan Beach,CA some months ago. It has only 128 GB storage.
I soon realized that I did a big mistake not upgrading the storage when purchasing. I thought I could upgrade later which is not possible I understand.
My Q:
What is the best and most practical/userer friendly option for additional storage say up to 1 TB ?Hey leiv karsten,
As your macbook is retina,you can't upgrade it like previous generation macbook pro.You can purchase a portable 1TB external harddrive.
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What's the best way to get a copy of Final Cut 7?
Amazon.
Apple stoped selling it officially 20 months ago. -
What is the best way to stream sports with Apple TV
What is the best way to stream sports with apple TV
Your question is a little too broad. Hard to know what sports you are talking about.
If you have a newer Mac, you can use airplay to mirror anything on your Mac to your apple tv. Or use the ESPN app.
But a lot of sports just can't be streamed as they are available, though I bet this year sees a lot of new livestreams on sports on YouTube or Ustream.
Hugh -
What is the best way to clean a white Apple keyboard?
What is the best way to clean a white Apple keyboard?
Take the batteries out if applicable, and use a very slightly damped lint-free cloth. Be very careful not to get any actual liquid into it. A brush would also be useful for cleaning between the keys: if you want to get fancy you can buy mini-vacuum cleaners for this, such as this one.
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What is the best virus protection for all my Apple products?
I have seen ads for Norton 360, McAfee and others that offer virus protection for all your devices. I am looking for protection for:
Mac Pro
MacBook Pro
Mac Mini
iPads
iPhones
If you know what is the best for a smooth running system and providing protection please let me know. My system is acting flaky (Mac Pro) and Wanted to start with Virus protections.Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has so far failed to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. These failures don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is foremost a problem of human behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It's as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
What is the best charging cable for the iPad Air (that is not made by Apple)? I need a long cable (over 6ft or more). I also need the cable to be of high quality and the cord part of the cable to be made of strong material. Apple does not make one this long. Is there a cable out there that is sturdy like this and is safe to use?
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