What's the best way to avoid seams in patterns?

I read an article that suggested avoiding tiles with fractions of pixels, but that does not solve it for me. Here's an enlarged section of a pattern.
I've found ways around it by turning it into a tile, pasting into Photoshop, trimming by a pixel and then filling with the pattern in Photoshop. But, that's a lot of time spent trying to get around a program glitch. Any suggestions?

It helps sometimes. For this pattern I'd rethink the art.
With the new Pattern Builder there's rarely a need to duplicate items. Simply configure the tile with only the art needed:
Note there are no duplicate elements. All you need are primaries.
Setting up art this way eleiminates seams in the middle of objects entirely.

Similar Messages

What is the best way to avoid latency when using the io plug in?

What is the best way to avoid latency when using the io plug in?

Hi colin a.
Welcome to the Support Communities!
The article below may be able to help you with this. Click on the link to see more details and screenshots.
Logic: About I/O buffer size and monitoring latency
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1314
Cheers,
- Judy

What is the best way to avoid The orange "Media Pending" screen?

I have my students save their captured footage and project in the same folder so they won't have issues. But I found today after loading larger files from Panasonic AG-AC8 cameras it was happening a lot. Anything I need to do differently? Thanks.

Thanks. I think I was just doing it wrong, because it doesn't crash anymore, lol.
Importing from Photo Booth requires saving to desktop, rather than sharing via media browser. A bit manual, but seems to work!
Thanks again!

What is the best way to export a movie to avoid losing quality?

I need to get a movie I made on a DVD somehow, but I seem to loose quality in color and overall sharpness when I take it into iDVD and burn a disc. This movie will be projected very large, so I need the best quality possible. What is the best way to export it for the highest quality?

There's been a ton of testing reported here on this issue, but I don't think there is a consensus on the "best" method. For one thing, it depends on what you're starting with.
In my experience with DV video and hi-res photos, it was tough to beat the result I got exporting "large" to the media browser. (Because of my DV footage, HD was not an option.) This made a H.264 file. I could only get a slight improvement by exporting via Quicktime to a H.264 file at double the resolution of the "large" file made by iMovie. Of course this took longer to export and for iDVD to encode. Overall, I'd say it wasn't worth it for the barely visible improvement. That improvement was only detectable in the slides, BTW, not in the DV video.
Many recommend exporting to AIC, which should be an essentially lossless export out of iMovie. This is what the share to iDVD supposedly does, I got poor results with any flow that used an AIC file exported out of iMovie for use by iDVD. Never figured out why, but my results were always better if I compressed to H.264 on the way out of iMovie.

What is the best way to work with Word documents in The InDesign CS4???

I work in Microsoft Word 2007 and all my documents have *.doc format.
What is the best way to work with Word documents in InDesign CS4???
David Blatner says to avoid copying and pasting text from Word instead of placing it (Ctrl+D).
How about pasting RTF or Text Document???
I want to make book's layout in ID CS4 and its main feature is that there is the left page with text and the right - with graphics.
So, as I understand to place the text on each page I must create for example 70 Word documents and place each item on 70 left pages???
It loks like wasting time. I sthere another way of making such layout??? What kind????

It's best to place any text.
You can have all of your text in one file and use auto-flow to add threaded text frames and pages as required (Hold down the Shift key when you click the loaded text cursor), but it's a little non-standard to have the thread only on one side of the spread from the auto-flow perspective, so you'll have to set up properly.
This is one case where a master text frame will work to your advantage. On your master page spread, add a text frame to the left page, but not to the right (or at least not threaded to one on the right -- for some other project you might actually want two independent text threads). Hold the loaded cursor over a frame on the left side of a document page and auto-flow. ID will add new spreads as necessary, but only put the text on the left side.
Peter

What is the best way to drop and recreate a Primary Key in the Replication Table?

I have a requirement to drop and recreate a primary key in a table which is part of Transaction replication. What is the best way to fo it other than remove it from replication and add again?
Thanks
Swapna

Hi Swapna,
Unfortunately you cannot drop columns used in a primary key from articles in transactional replication. This is covered in
Make Schema Changes on Publication Databases:
You cannot drop columns used in a primary key from articles in transactional publications, because they are used by replication.
You will need to drop the article from the publication, drop and recreate the primary key, and add the article back into the publication.
To avoid having to send a snapshot down to the subscriber(s), you could specify the option 'replication support only' for the subscription. This would require the primary key be modified at the subscriber as well prior to adding the article back in
and should be done during a maintenance window when no activity is occurring on the published tables.
I suggest testing this out in your test environment first, prior to deploying to production.
Brandon Williams (blog |
linkedin)

What is the best way to use a SSD for Photoshop/photo editing?

Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: http://pastebin.com/J9byczse
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet since I'd like some advice first.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically...
1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD?
2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both?
3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD?
4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
Thanks for any help!

If you have an SSD you can run the cache and programs on the same drive. However, many recommend a scratch disk size of 100-200 gigs so that will not work here unless you opt for a larger SSD. Otherwise an internal spinner is recommended that does not contain the program files, or idealy any other files that may want to get acessed at same time (only one read/write head per drive).
With 32 gig of RAM you may not need the constant use of the scratch drive unless working on large images with lots of layers. So see no advantage to moving folder to SSD for temp work environment.
From what I read the new crop of SSD do not have the wear problems of the older versions.

What is the best way to set up Facetime if using multiple computers with one apple ID?

I currently have FaceTime setup on my iPad 2 using my normal appleID, but have just recently upgraded our iMac from Leopard to Snow leopard, and have added FaceTime to that computer as well. So my question is this. If I want to avoid confusion with which device is called when someone calls us using FaceTime, what is the best way to distinguish the devices? Should I try to use a different email address to reach the iMac? Is there a best-known-method for this?

That's a nice system Kevin, and it will work very nicely with Photoshop. I do take it that you have 16Gb RAM in Total?
250Gb SSD is a good size, but you can still run short, and that will affect Windows performance. When you get your system, instal WinDirStat which gives you a graphic display of everything on your drive, like below. Clicking on any of the large areas will tell you what and where they are, so you can think about moving cache folders etc. to one of the HDDs.
Leave the Pagefile.sys on the boot drive. Think about disabling Hyphenate as it takes a ton of space, and too often crashes on wake up.
My Documents
Desktop
Downloads
Look at Bridge cache
iTunes backup
Other stuff like that.
Think about another 500Gb drive just for Photoshop Scratch. Drives are cheap as chips nowadays
Do yourself a favour, and invest $100 in Shadow Protect (or similar if there is such a thing) SP saves incremental backups every 15 minutes (you can set the interval, but it has no impact on performance with a system like yours). If you have a problem you can mount the back up at any of those 15 minute points, and open files from it. You can also make a bootable DVD image of your C drive, and be back up and running five minutes after disaster strikes.
Optimize Performance in Photoshop
Photoshop CC and CC 2014 GPU FAQ
For more ideas, swing by the Premiere Pro Hardware forum. Those guys are serious good at this stuff, and you'll find links tips and ideas.
Happy computing, and have fun with your Creative Cloud® apps.

What is the best way to organize a tree-like structure of constants?

Hello everone!
Need help with organizing my constants structrure.
I have several tables, and each of them need a list of column names to define the fields returned after query, and also a corresponding list of hashmap keys because that columnnames are ugly. Hashmap is where I store the result of searching through the table. This question is not about JDBC because I search through tables via COM interface, no JDBC ResultSets and other stuff here.
Finally, for each table I have two constant lists and I have a list of tables. What is the best way to store this?
My first idea was to create a enum and store column data in it as String array attributes: String[] columnNames; etc.
But in this case I cannot use each column and key separately.
Another option is to create two separate enums for each table: columnNames enum and keys enum. That doesn't look great also.
The third option is to create inner class for each table and store two enums in each of that classes.
Also I can store all data in hashmaps, Strings etc.
(1) Finally, from your experience, what is the best way to organize all that stuff?
(2) I have heard that smart Java programmer should avoid using the enums by any means. Do you agree?
(3) Generally what will you prefer when creating a constant which has two values: two final Integers or enum?
Edited by: Dmitry_MSK on Jul 8, 2010 5:22 AM

I'm not sure why you don't just invent a generic data structure (e.g., table name, list of column names and aliases of column names) such as:
class QueryMetaData {
private final String tableName;
private final String[] columnNames;
private final String[] columnAliases;
}Read into the above structure from a properties file, database table, etc. You can store meta-data itself in places other than enum constants, particularly if would like to change the meta-data without requiring a new build of your application.
That having been said, WRT to your specific questions:
(1) Finally, from your experience, what is the best way to organize all that stuff?See above
(2) I have heard that smart Java programmer should avoid using the enums by any means. Do you agree?Enums are better than simple constants using int or String or something similar. If there are known, discrete values unlikely to change frequently, I see no issues with an enum. They improve the readability of code, and there are enough syntactic sugar features in the language (switch statements come to mind) to make them appealing.
(3) Generally what will you prefer when creating a constant which has two values: two final Integers or enum?
See above. Enums were introduced (in large part) to do away with storing constants as integers.
- Saish

What is the best way to organize queue in R/3?

Hi,
I'm in a middle of a project, where I should implement queue in order to sync data between 2 systems - r/3 and legasy one. I have few user exits (or bussiness events), which could be rised concurently in time, and I need only 1 instance of the sync module to run at a time. Well, I know the technique to prevent a program from running in multiple processes, and I have an idea how to organize a queue (my idea is to use transparent table to track actions which should be sync-ed), but there allways are some 'bottlenecks' that should be considered in such an implementation.
That's why it might be of great help if someone could share his/her knowledge on this topic or point me to the right paper/docu, if available.
I just don't want to reinvent the wheel, if possible
Many thanks in advance.
Regards,
Ivaylo Mutafchiev
SAP BC Consultant - ABAP developer
Varna Bussiness Services Ltd.

I'm not sure why you don't just invent a generic data structure (e.g., table name, list of column names and aliases of column names) such as:
class QueryMetaData {
private final String tableName;
private final String[] columnNames;
private final String[] columnAliases;
}Read into the above structure from a properties file, database table, etc. You can store meta-data itself in places other than enum constants, particularly if would like to change the meta-data without requiring a new build of your application.
That having been said, WRT to your specific questions:
(1) Finally, from your experience, what is the best way to organize all that stuff?See above
(2) I have heard that smart Java programmer should avoid using the enums by any means. Do you agree?Enums are better than simple constants using int or String or something similar. If there are known, discrete values unlikely to change frequently, I see no issues with an enum. They improve the readability of code, and there are enough syntactic sugar features in the language (switch statements come to mind) to make them appealing.
(3) Generally what will you prefer when creating a constant which has two values: two final Integers or enum?
See above. Enums were introduced (in large part) to do away with storing constants as integers.
- Saish

What is the best way to keep your macbook pro in tip top condition. performance wise

What is the best way to keep the performance of a macbook pro in tip top shape. Over the years my computer seems to act like a pc with all of its hicups and lockups.
I am running mountain lion and this computer is approx 2 years old.
Not sure if there is some sort of software that will help with this or is there something else I can do.
Thanks
GAJ

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device is not something you should have to think about very much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best way to connect my new MBP to monitor - DVI, VGA or HDMI

What is the best way to connect my new MBP to a computer monitor? DVI, VGA or HDMI? Thanks

I recommend the Apple MiniDisplay Port to DVI adaptor. I would avoid VGA. MiniDisplay Port to HDMI will work as well (3rd party).
http://www.apple.com/search/?q=dvi%20adaptor&section=mac&geo=us

What's the best way to connect the audio out of my Mac to my stereo receiver?

I want to listen to my mp3 collection through my home theatre stero receiver.
I have 2 audio interfaces that I connect to my mac through USB and Firewire: Digi Design Mbox mini and Maudio ProFire 610.
I've tried going from a headphone 1/8'' connector from the headphone out of my mac to rca connected to the aux (or whatever) of my stereo.
I've tried using a 1/4'' adapter on the 1/8'' to go from my mbox mini's headphone output to the rca aux on my stereo.
The problem is I'm hearing distortions that sound like clipping, or static, crunchiness on certain frequencies in a lot of my mp3's that shouldn't be there.
I listen to lots of music, and a lot of it uses distortion, like shoegaze, drone etc but I know what I'm hearing is unnatural.
I even hear these flaws when I listen to headphones through the headphone out of my mbox.
Page 2 on this instruction manual says I should be able to go from the monitor outs to my stereo. The monitor outs are 1/4 inch out so I figured I would need a 1/4 inch to rca cable.
I got this one from monster thinking it should work. No dice.
So my question is, what is the best way to connect my mac to my stereo? I need to avoid these distortions and flaws in the audio i'm hearing or I will go nuts.
Why might I be getting these clipping distoritons?
any advice would be fantastic

It depends on how close the receiver is to the iMac. If it's just a few feet away you need at cable like:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-THINTOSMIN6-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00016 W6Y6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1316096392&sr=8-2
However if the receiver is across the room or the house you would be best to enable Air Play, this enables you to wirelessly connect the receiver to the iMac. You will need the above cable and an Airport Express. If you are not familiar with Air Play navigate to:
http://www.apple.com/itunes/airplay/
I have been using it for quite some time and find it great. If you are not familiar with the Airport Express here is the link to it:
http://www.apple.com/airportexpress/
You can even find refurbished ones on Apples website for about $79.

What is the best way to make music in Logic pro8?

ok, Im using a Mac, 3 external keyboards,a profire 2626 (audio interface) and a MIDI sport (midi interface). I am wanting to track in the audio from the 3 keyboards as MIDI. I wanted to know what is the best way to do this? Is it required to record the audio and MIDI at the same time? When i do do this, (record MIDI and Audio simultaniously), i get this doubling effect after the loop comes back, because of the MIDI and the Audio tracks combined. Arent you supposed to create some kind of Aux track to avoid this so, you can monitor what you just made so this "doubling effect" isnt heard?...another question. I am experiencing latency and it doesnt make sense. I have a low buffer size (32), but i only experience it when i play the space bar or hit record, not if im just sitting there hitting keys..however, I found a trick to avoid this, but here is where it doesnt make sense. If i go to Settings>Synchronization>MIDI...then set my Transmit MIDI Clock Destination to (ALL)...i hear the Latency wehne i hit space bar or record..But if i deselect All...and choose MIDI Sport Port 1...or port 2....there is no latency when i hit space bar or record.. and this doesnt make sense to me because i have 3 keyboards in Ports 1-3..so why wont the destination work better on All?....ok,,that sums it up ..thanks

There are many different ways to use Logic. You will develop your own technique as you gain experience with it. The doubling you are experiencing is because the midi track is being sent back into your instrument as you record.. Shut off local control on your keyboard. Or temporarily assign the midi track you are recording to an instrument that is NOT being sent back to the same instrument..
If you are recording three midi keyboards at once, make sure each one is sending on a different midi channel, also make sure that midi instruments are NOt sending back to your keyboards.
Getting rid of latency is another problem. I am not familiar with MIDI sport. What you want to do is listen to a LIVE input (coming directly from instrument) - then turn the level down on the corresponding track you are recording into Logic. If your audio interface won't let you do that you must turn the audio buffer down as low as your computer will allow without distortion.

What is the best way to secure and harden a Macbook Pro against unwanted surveillance?

What is the best way to secure and harden a Macbook Pro against unwanted surveillance? Tor, VPN, Little Snitch, etc. This would be for that latest version of Mavericks.

djbabybokchoy wrote:
Nothing specific, just speaking in general. Ex-wives, governments, bad guys...anyone really. I'm just looking to make my Mac a bit more private and secure, especially when on public networks.
Governments and ex's will/may have recourse to the legal process (or in the case of the Gov they can choose to ignore the legal system if they feel like it) when they want to see something of yours, good luck hardening your Mac against that. The best way to avoid the possibility of snooping over public networks is to avoid them but if you can't then Kappy's suggestion will help.
Strong passwords (everywhere) and don't use the same password in multiple locations.
If you really want to secure your home wireless use Mac address connection authentication, do not allow unknown Mac addresses to connect. It's much stronger than a WPA password alone.

What's the best way to avoid seams in patterns?

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