What's the best way to uninstall CS3?

Just purchased CS5.5 and no longer need CS3 on my machine. I could just delete files, any suggestions?
ps. Excuse my english...

Well, you haven't told us the operating system. On the Mac, there should be an Uninstall alias in the folder with the application for each application, it doens't matter which one you use. Under Windows, use Add/Remove Programs.
Either way you'll be prompted for exactly what programs you want to remove.

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No problems. And, actually, if you don't want to, you don't even need to re-download.
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ll600 & RBROGGO,
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Hello I have lost my serial number for adobe photoshop elements. Bought from John Lewis last month. I did have it installed but had to uninstall but cannot find the any of the packaging etc plus did not register. What is the best way of getting it install

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I have the downloaded trial version of InDesign CS3 and will purchase it.
What is the best way to accomplish this once the credit card has been debited?
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Thanks,
Bob

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I've gone through the installation of a new version, well... 8 times before. And have noticed that adobe has the nasty habit of not cleanly uninstalling the previous versions...
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I recently got a JVC Everio GZ-MG130u and as I'm sure many of you are aware, it saves footage in the .mod format.
I have googled this and found quite a few different solutions, but I'm just wondering if anything has changed since some of these solutions were posted, or in other words, what is the best way at this current point in time to handle .mod files in premiere pro cs4?
As far as I know, the best thing to do is convert the .mod to .avi and then import it into premiere so it can be edited.. Is there a better way to do it than this? Also, by doing it this way, will I have separate audio and video tracks?
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I have just done a bit of reading, here. All of the quotes that follow are from users who have posted in that thread.
It seems that there isn't one solid answer on this subject. The thread that I linked to was started 2 years ago, and replied to just 4 ago, so it's relatively current.
I noticed a couple different interesting statements:
posted by mmontgomery:
In the case of .MOD, you are actually getting a MPEG-2 file. The way
video files work is that there is a codec (COmpressor/DECompressor)
algorithm and a file wrapper (or extension). A JVC .MOD file is a
MPEG-2 encoded file, with a .MOD extension.
You're faced with two
challenges, first the .MOD file type is only recognized and support by a
few applications. I think we covered some of those already. The
interesting thing about wrappers and extensions is that they can be
dealt with in a variety of ways. Sometimes all you need to do to convert
the video file to a compatible video file is to change the extension.
In the case of .MOD files that's not enough. The .MOD wrapper apparently
does a few more things than just bare a unique extension name. It
requires a slightly more complicated method to convert that file. That
is why there is supplied software and that certain third party
applications have .MOD support.
(posted 2 years ago)
This seems to indicate that Ann's solution of simply re-naming the extension is not good enough, unless I am mis-interpreting what she meant.
However, another user said:
posted by futball8:
I edit with Adobe Premiere Pro CS3. All I have to do is simply rename
the .MOD files as .MPG and then import into PP CS3. It takes a small
amount of time to conform the audio, but no file conversion is
necessary. It's a pretty slick workflow and I've never encountered any
problems editing them this way.
(posted 5 months ago)
One can only assume that simply re-naming the extension from .mod to .mpg works in some circumstances, and doesn't work in others. I assume it depends largely on the editing software being used. Perhaps there are still issues that futball8 was simply unaware of or never encountered.
That said, there seems to be a couple of different real solutions to this problem that I have found:
1. Simply use an editing program that supports .mod file format. While pe7 and pe8 supposedly support the .mod format, the following should be noted:
posted by macksgarage:
While Elements 'supports' these files, it is markedly unstable and frequently crashes while using the files, though the application is otherwise reliable. The solution I have arrived at is to repair the container using ffmpeg. (see #3)
(posted 5 months ago)
2. Use a file conversion utility of your choice that will covert .mod to .avi, or another desired format. Import the resulting .avi file into premiere pro cs4.
3. Use FFmpeg. This seems to be the best solution as it does not convert any audio or video:
posted by macksgarae:
If you are not familiar with ffmpeg, it may be a bit of a bear to
learn, but it's not only useful for this, but functions as a video swiss
army knife useful for splicing, muxing/demuxing, and rendering just
about any format into just about any other format.
ffmpeg is an open source project from the linux world, but it has
been ported and is supported on windows. Fetch it here and place it somewhere handy
on your system.
To rewrite the container into a nice, standards compliant .mpg file
that doesn't make applications die, WITHOUT rerendering video or audio
itself, I use this command.
ffmpeg -i INFILE.MOD -acodec copy - vcodec copy OUTFILE.mpg
This not only renames the file, but actually rebuilds the container
around unmodified video and audio data, yielding a file which works much
more stably with Adobe applications, and presumably others as well, as
ffmpeg's open source development goals result in very standards
compliant files.
(posted 5 months ago)
Now, this seems to properly address the issues that can arise from simply renaming .mod to .mpg, as suggested by Ann. So from this point, I assume you can simply import the .mpg into Premiere Pro cs4 (or any other .mpg compliant program) and edit without issue, but it seems like I remember hearing something about Premiere not liking mpegs or something like that, so in that case, maybe it'd be better to skip this and go with option #2. But, it's been awhile since I've touched any NLE, much less premiere pro cs4, so I could be completely wrong and it may have no problems handling mpegs.
All of the things that I've quoted here came from the same thread, so I don't know how accurate any of this is, but the people that have posted these things seem fairly knowledgeable. If someone reads all of this and can confirm or deny any of it, it would be much appreciated.
Option 1 is not really an option for me, because I am sticking with premiere pro cs4 -- I'm not going to get another editor just because it has .mod support. That leaves me with options 2 and 3: Convert to avi, or change the file wrapper/extension properly with FFmpeg and then simply import the resulting .mpg file... Which is better? Or is there yet another solution that I am unaware of that would be even better?

What is the best way to keep your macbook pro in tip top condition. performance wise

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I am running mountain lion and this computer is approx 2 years old.
Not sure if there is some sort of software that will help with this or is there something else I can do.
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How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device is not something you should have to think about very much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best way to start "fresh" with iPhoto '08?

I am running iPhoto '08 on a mid-2007 iMac. When I set up the machine, I moved all the photos from my PC to the Mac retaining the existing directory structure that I had on the PC. I then imported all the pictures into iPhoto with no problems.
Unfortunately, the other person who uses the Mac needs to be able to use the directory structure as it existed on the PC (that structure involves several subfolders with specific names etc.), and it appears that iPhoto is not designed to work that way. I know the photos can still be manipulated in the folders I imported, but then I run the risk of at best, being out of synch with iPhoto and at worst, corrupting iPhoto completely.
That said, what I would like to do is delete or remove the current iPhoto library (or whatever iPhoto accesses; not the whole application unless necessary) and then selectively import photos to iPhoto. That way, the other user can access the photos in the familiar folder structure and manipulate them at will without disturbing the iPhoto db and, once photos are edited etc. and ready for primetime, they can be imported to iPhoto to gain the advantages of displaying using Front Row etc.
My question is what is the best way to achieve what I am looking for? Just backup then delete the iPhoto pkg file in the HD/Library/Receipts folder? Uninstall the entire application and start over?
All assistance greatly appreciated.

ETRA
Welcome to the Apple Discussions.
You don't need to re-install iPhoto, just change the library - and you may not even need to do that.
1. You can easily recreate your Directory structure in iPhoto. Simply start at the bottom of your structure and drag a folder of images to the Source (or left hand) pane of the iPhoto Window. iPhoto will create an Album of the same name. The create your enclosing folders (File -> New Folder) and drag the albums to it. This way you can quickly recreate what you have/
2. The other user of the files can access them directly via the iPhoto Window or a Media Browser such as THIS. The advantage of this system is that your directory structure is available to them ina convenient and recognisable way. They can then drag the pics from the iPhoto Window / Media Browser to the app they as the need. (A whole lot faster than fumbling around in Folder after Folder etc, plus the advantage of keyword searching.)
3. Is this necessary for working with an editor? You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. Btw this is the only way that edits made in iPhoto will be visible in iPhoto.
4. Finally, if you do wish to go as you described: Simply trash the iPhoto Library from the Pictures Folder. Start iPhoto and it will create an new empty library. If you wish to recover the files from the Library first, then Right Click on the iPhoto Library and go 'Show Package Contents'. Your files are in the Originals Folder.
Regards
TD

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Mylenium

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What is the best way to migrate your Adobe software to another computer?

If you know that you do not intend to use the software on the old machine (especially if you are getting rid of it), the minimum you need to do is deactivate it. That will disable use of it and free up an extra activation for you should you ever wish to have two machines available to use it on. To deactivate you just open an application and choose Help -> Deactivate. If this happens to be a Creative Suite, doing that to just one of the applications will deactivate the entire Suite.
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Try going without for a day or two and see just how many sites you visit no longer require it. A lot of people keep it installed out of habit, not out of necessity. If you have Flash installed, visit a site and it's out of date, it will tell you to update your Flash. What it won't do is tell you is that had Flash not been installed, it would have used the HTML 5 code instead. Think about it... if an iOS device can't run Flash at all... it can't visit this site if it were written only to use Flash. What site would eliminate such a huge portion of their market base? You'd be surprised at how many sites use HTML 5. Uninstall Flash and see for yourself.

What's the best way to uninstall CS3?

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