What's up with auto tone?

What's up with auto tone? It doesn't seem very smart or useful. It always blows out the exposure for me, midtones in particular. I do have a hardware calibrated NEC SV monitor. I would much rather Adobe bring over the algorithims for auto contrast, auto levels, and auto color from PS, which, when faded to varying degrees using different blending methods (normal, color, and luminosity in particular), are incredibly powerful and useful.
Auto tone seems to have been broken from day one and hasn't gotten much better. I sometimes use it as a reference, then undo it and manually move somewhat in the direction it's suggesting, but it seems really out of whack in general.

One of the first things I learnt in a PSE class years ago was: Never use auto adjustments, they'll ruin your picture ...
Since then, I rarely ever use any of these auto tuning features in any pricture editing software
I would go so far as to say that is extremely bad advice. The trio of 'auto' functions in PS are among the most powerful and useful in the entire program. They can be used in concert with each other, and each one faded to varying degrees - which they very often should be - and changing the type of blending when fading is very powerful. They can adversely affect image quality if used carelessly, by no means will ruin your photos de facto. Like any tool, they have to be used wisely. I've color corrected probably 100k photos over 18 years with PS and for me these tools are absolutely critical.

Similar Messages

In Photoshop Elements 12, is there a way to batch process all photos in a file with 'Auto Tone' and save the changes?

In Photoshop Elements 12, is there a way to batch process all photos in a file with 'Auto Tone' and save the changes?

Thank you, that was perfect!
Yoni

What's up with auto downloads for tv seasons?

I receive emails telling me to download new episodes of already purchased seasons on iTunes but, alas!, no joy. The episodes do not autodownload and I have not been able to find a way to get at them short of (you've got to be kidding) buying them all over again. Really?!?

One of the first things I learnt in a PSE class years ago was: Never use auto adjustments, they'll ruin your picture ...
Since then, I rarely ever use any of these auto tuning features in any pricture editing software
I would go so far as to say that is extremely bad advice. The trio of 'auto' functions in PS are among the most powerful and useful in the entire program. They can be used in concert with each other, and each one faded to varying degrees - which they very often should be - and changing the type of blending when fading is very powerful. They can adversely affect image quality if used carelessly, by no means will ruin your photos de facto. Like any tool, they have to be used wisely. I've color corrected probably 100k photos over 18 years with PS and for me these tools are absolutely critical.

Why does Auto Tone button in Quick Develop panel fail with Win 7 platform?

I have been a user of Photoshop since the inception of Photoshop CS. I recently purchased a subscription to Photoshop CC, which comes with Photoshop Lightroom 5.
I have never used Lightroom, so I purchased the Kindle version of Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5, CLASSROOM IN A BOOK. I have this eBook installed on the same Windows 7 PC that I have Photoshop CC and Lightroom 5 installed on.
I ran into a problem in a section of the first chapter titled “Using Quick Develop in the Library module.” This section, in part, instructs how to quickly improve the color tonal balance of an image.
After selecting the required image from the sample images for this lesson, I found the histogram in my Lightroom 5 Loupe view to be the same as the lesson’s photo illustration for this original image. As described in the lesson, the photo did not have a balanced tonal distribution.
I followed the lesson’s instruction: “4. In the Quick Develop panel, watch the tone distribution curve shift in the Histogram panel as you click the Auto Tone button. Although the automatic adjustment hasn’t done a perfect job with this particular photo, there is substantial improvement; a lot of image detail has been recovered from the overexposed hair and face and there is more depth in the mid-tones. The contrast, however, remains unimpressive, and the darker areas still look flat.” (See Adobe Creative Team [2013-08-06]. Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5: Classroom in a Book [Kindle Locations 1024-1026]. Pearson Education. Kindle Edition.)
This is where I ran into a problem. After clicking on the Auto Tone Button in the Quick Develop panel, my results were completely different than what was described and shown in the Histogram displayed in the lesson. Instead, in my Lightroom 5, clicking the Lightroom Auto Tone button has increased the exposure, making it even more over exposed than the original image! Therefore continuing to follow the instructions in the lesson was a waste of time, since my Auto Tone results were so totally out of sync from that of the lesson.
This disturbed me, so I decided to open the same sample image in Photoshop CC, Camera RAW 8.2. Camera RAW provides an Auto Button which improves exposure and color tonal balance to an image. The results were exactly the same as the Auto Tone functionality in the Quick Develop panel in Lightroom 5. I couldn't understand why the lesson instructor's results were so positive and mine were so disastrous. Then it hit me! I discovered that the lesson writer of this Adobe Classroom in a Book was using Lightroom 5 on a MAC computer. I could tell by looking at his lesson images. Just to be sure, I tried this lesson scenario on a different PC with Win 7, Photoshop CC and Lightroom 5. I got the same failed results.
I’ve heard from other professionals that Photoshop and Lightroom software only work properly on Apple computers. I’ve always thought that this was a myth, but have infrequently experienced a good result using the Auto button feature in Photoshop Camera Raw on a Windows PC platform, so I don’t use it often.
What really has me frustrated is the fact that Adobe no longer has a direct way to report software defects to their tech support or process improvement teams. Their online bug reporting process is woefully inadequate. I've tried twice to create a support ticket on the Adobe site, only to have my case withdrawn mysteriously. I've tried their online chat, telephone support, and sent emails with image attachments to the address provided by their agent on the telephone. My email goes unanswered and my open cases somehow get closed.
Any ideas on how to get this issue addressed by Adobe are sincerely appreciated.

Adobe tries to improve the Auto Tone function from time-to-time. I used to completely underexpose an image that had a few bright spots such as car headlights turned on in an otherwise properly exposed image. This is probably what you’re seeing, LR now guessing brighter more of the time, and it might change, again, in a future version so don’t be too concerned.
As others have said, Auto Tone works on some images and not on others, and Adobe can only try to make it work better on more images by changing how it works on all images. For the lesson example, the author purposely used an image that was improved with auto-tone that LR did at the time of authorship. You will never have a picture exactly like the lesson’s example, either, so it’s not that important if the lesson is 100% accurate for future versions of LR, just that the general idea that some pictures are improved in certain ways by Auto Tone will still be applicable, and you’ll need to learn, by trial and error, what to do when Auto Tone doesn’t work well or the image needs further adjustment. That is the important lesson, what to do with your own pictures.
You can reset a particular slider after a bad Auto Tone by double clicking on that slider. The Exposure slider is the one I reset most often.
You can also LR set the Auto Tone value for just one slider by holding down the Shift key and double clicking on that one slider. I do this a lot for the Blacks slider to set the black point, without messing up everything else.

Problem with ACR 7 auto tone?

Still trying to get a handle on this beast, playing with various controls. Here's a snapshot with default settings and then after auto is invoked. Default appears ok, just a small bit of clipping, but unless I'm missing something something is wrong with auto.
Richard Southworth

'Auto Tone' is simply not good enough to bother using, IMO. (not a big deal for me, since I prefer to "manual" tone anyway, still...).
PS - I have seen this over-darkening behavior in the past which I believed was due to a single overextended channel, which for reasons I don't understand, was not shown in the Lightroom histogram, but you can see it in the histogram of the Mfr. software.
Rob

What are the changes / enhancements / or possible bugs in LR 5 Auto Tone

Can anyone explain what, if any, changes, enhancements, or possible bugs were introduced in the functionality of Auto Tone since LR ver. 5.0. The reason I ask is that I get different results for the Exposure and Contrast adjustments when applying Auto Tone (using ver. 5.3) from the results (using ver.5.0) shown in the book "Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 CIB" in the "Using Quick Develop in the Library module" section, step 4 on page 37. (This difference in results between LR versions was confirmed by the authors of LR5CIB.)

I'm not sure about any new bugs but the radical exposure mis-calculations have been improved. I had photos that were over exposed to 5 (and even 10, believe it or not) that were exposed to a more appropriate 2 or so following the improvements (in Lr5.2 if memory serves). It's also less likely to radically underexpose.
Enjoy, (in my opinion, it's much better)
I think there may have even been further improvement in Lr5.3 but I can't swear to it - seems to preserve a little more contrast than in 5.2 - could be my imagination..
Rob

Anyway to turn off "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" with Tiffs + PSDs?

Using 1.1 on Mac....
When I view tiffs in Lightroom 1.1 I noticed images are much lighter than when viewing in Photoshop. Is it the preference "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" being applied? If so is there a way to turn it off for Tiffs and PSDs?

John:
I think I just ran into the same problem in a different venue, and maybe many people are having this problem. I imported a folder of layered psd master files from which I wanted to output prints in the LR print module. (You can see the thread on this forum titled "lightroom output prints are too light"). All of them looked a good stop lighter when viewed in the LR window as compared to when they were opened in photoshop.
After some other diagnostic suggestions that did not yield a solution, Jeff Schewe told me to use the Zeroed preset when importing images, so as to eliminate any develop settings that might inadvertently be turned on. I haven't tried to print yet, but they are importing as I write this and the ones in the LR window look like they match the image when viewed in photoshop. I just checked Lee Jay's advice and did find that I had "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checked in the presets preferences. Am not sure why this would override "none" when importing, but evidently it does.
Am also not sure what your issues about syncing are (I didn't even know "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checkbox existed till I read your thread), but hope this helps.
Paula Lerner
http://www.lernerphoto.com

Bridge CS6 How to turn off auto tone adjustment for the loupe?

Adobe Bridge CS6. 'Apply auto tone adjustments' is unchecked in Camera Raw Preferences. Yet every time I click on an image in the preview panel it does a tonal adjustment before it magnifies the image detail. I am viewing bracketed images and do not want any auto tone applied at any time while previewing images. How can I turn off all auto tone adjustment for the program - including the loupe. I never had this issue in a previous version. I'm on PC. Thanks for any help!

All 4 Default Image Settings are unchecked. Checking this further I have found this is only a visual issue in Bridge Preview. I have opened the same raw file before any adjustment had taken place (w/o using the loupe magnifier) in PS CS6 - and then again opened it after using the magnifier which did an auto contrast adjust on the image. Both files are the same in PS CS6. This is only a visual issue within Bridge (Master Collection CS6) on my Win7 64 bit machine. No issue with a standalone PS CS6 version on my XP 64 bit system.
There is no auto adjustment of the image until I use the loupe (magnifier tool).
Note my previous comment as to what happens when I use it. Thanks!
I have a feeling this is a bug. I have a Photography help group on fb and posed this question to them. I had mostly no issue responses but got this from another person. I checked after reading this and it is the same issue with me - this only happens with raw files, not jpeg. Here is his comment line.
Carl, I see what you mean, I have tried several adjustments to the preferences and none seem to work. The image automatically adjusts after a brief time. There does not seem to be any way to turn off the adjustment. I'm using Bridge CS 6 on a Mac. I don't think it has anything to do with camera calibration, but it only happens when using RAW files. I tried it on JPGs and TIFFs and it did not adjust the loupe image. Wonder what Adobe has to say
So - tThanks for any thoughts! So at least it's not going to be an editing issue - but it's a pain here. I use Bridge to edit my shoots and I often shoot bracketed images. While I cull images according to the histogram, I also do visual assessment and I can't have Bridge doing it's own thing on tonal adjustment.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

Possible to do 'auto-tone' manually?

I'm going to try and put an example as part of my question because I'm not sure how to explain it otherwise.
While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc). Here is it before/after:
Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
Now, what I'm trying to figure out, is how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made? Any advice on how I can do this fix-up manually?
Your help is greatly appreciated!

TheWildCoast wrote:
Thank you very much for the help!
I found the settings you describe and was able to create a curves layer and do the adjustment on photo A. However, when I open photo B (in a new photoshop tab) and follow the same steps, it remains dark and blue, just like my previous attempts.
Yes, that's to be expected, and you were not supposed to repeat the auto-adjusting steps for Photo B. You should set up the adjustment with Photo A only, then use the adjustment with Photo B.
I notice in your screenshots that you have both photo A and photo B open in the same photoshop tab - how do I do that?
After opening Photo A, I dragged Photo B from the desktop and into the same document window. There's also a command to open multiple images into a stack in one document: File > Scripts > Load Files Into Stack.
I temporarily hid Photo B by clicking the eye to the left of its thumbnail in Layers panel, added the Curves layer to the top of the stack, made the auto adjustment, then clicked the eye again to reveal Photo B.
The issue is that I actually have about 15 of these photos I'd like to fix up which have the same blue issue, and only one of them (photo A) seems to turn out nicely with photoshop - I'd like to be able to apply this fix to the others, perhaps with the ability to do some small adjustments depending on how it applies to each of the photos. I guess ultimately I'm trying to understand the workflow. You mentioned I could save the curves layer as a custom present for later use - how do I do that? Would that be my workflow then?
Make the basic auto-adjusted Curves layer with Photo A. In top-right of Properties panel for the Curves layer, click the button with a triangle, pick Save Curves Preset and give it a meaningful name. The preset will then be available in the Presets menu of a Curves layer (or Curves command) in any document.
When you use the Curves layer in a document, pick the custom preset then make further tweaks to the controls as required, or add further adjustment layers to the stack.
I recommend you work in 16-bit mode (menu Image > Mode > 16-bit) to reduce the possible introduction of posterization and banding. Your final output can be in 8-bit mode, as usual.

Photoshop CC Acting Up - Won't let me crop - auto tone, etc...

For some reason my photoshop has started acting up. When I open any tiff files now it won't let me crop it until I unlock the layer. When I unlock the layer it will let me crop it once, but no further. After selecting all I used to be able to nudge in a direction and click crop to crop it... Also it won't let me do the Auto Tone or other commands if the layer is locked...
It used to be that all the photo's used to be imported without being locked and I used to be able to crop and auto tone and everything as I pleased. I don't know what's happened....

I don't know what to provide? It was working fine before... It didn't use to lock the layer when opening any file, and now it does, it used to let me crop normally, now it won't let me crop at all. Some of the settings got messed up while I was working on a project earlier yesterday. It was a project where I was taking out people from one scene and putting them in another. I played around with layers and other settings. Maybe I hit a wrong command or something but now it defaulted to locking all layers all the time and not letting me do levels or any other things until I unlock every single photo when opening and after that it STILL won't let me crop. When I select and crop it stays the same, doesn't crop the rest of the photo out.
Also when I open it up, it opens it in Layers now, it used to open it in the History tab. All of this is extremely annoying and it happens both in PS 2014 and CC 64 Bit
Is there a way to export a log to all changes I have made, or revert to the way it was before yesterday?
Don't know if it's relevant but I am using a Sony Vaio Z with 97% Adobe RGB on the LED screen, it has 8gb of ram, full quad core i7 t 2.10GHZ, Win 7 64 bit...I don't know how to extract photoshop setting or profiles to show you....

Auto tone in Lightroom 3 unusable - have to 'auto tone' the image in CS4 for correct tonal quality.

The 'Auto Tone' in Lightroom 3.2 never gives me the correct tone, that I'm looking for in my image. It'll either make the overall image too dark, or over-brighten it in unrealistic colours.
I always have to go out of Lightroom and edit/auto tone my image in Photoshop CS4, which gets it spot-on just about every time, especially with my studio shoots. In Lightroom 3 the backgound/overall image stays dull looking, while in CS4 it automatically brings out the crisp white of the background.
I also use OnOne PhotoTools 2.53 Professional Edition, where I see the Auto Tone matches CS4 exactly - Lightroom 3 however definitely uses a different algorithm, which is not useful for me at all and makes for much longer editing times.
Example 1 (image auto toned in CS4):
Example 2 (image auto toned in Lightroom 3.2):

Hi Rob
Appreciate your replies.
I'm using the 'Image -> Auto Tone' function directly within CS4 - I'm not using the ACR window through CS4.
I see that CS4 can no longer be updated with the latest ACR (6.2), although obviously Lightroom 3 can still be updated. Maybe this is where the 'different auto tone results' come in. Maybe the latest version of ACR is not as compatible to my image requirements, as the previous editon with CS4 was.
Anyhow, to recap, I use 'Auto Tone' straight in CS4, with preferable results over that in LR3. I'm not sure what an effect ACR has over the 'auto tone' functionality in both these versions.
I definitely do however want to post this question in the Adobe Technical Support section - thanks for that.
Best regards,
Franz

Auto Tone Lightroom/Photoshop Question

Hey folks,
Im an underwater photographer (amateur) with several photos of barracuda that are washed out from not being close enough. If I edit them in Photoshop using the Auto Tone and Auto Color adjustments, lots of accurate color pops out (yeah!).
What I want to know is how to get the same impact using Lightroom 2. Is it possible? Any ideas?
Michael

My experience is that LR doesn't do its best at the extremes of the temp ranges as DPP. But with some work, you can get a decent photo out of what you have in LR, I did one, and applied some strong noise reduction, managed to keep the plants green, the sky blue and the sand white ish, and it looks o.k., although maybe still too blue. I took a look at the .xmp to see if posting it might help, but there are so many repeats of info, it'd be too long, and I don't know what to cut out.

Text-input component with auto-complete functionality for mobile

Hey guys,
I wonder if there is a text-input component with auto-complete functionality optimized for mobile development with AIR like the one that Android provides natively as you can see here http://developer.android.com/reference/android/widget/AutoCompleteTextView.html and here http://developer.android.com/resources/tutorials/views/hello-autocomplete.html.
At least I didn't find it in the latest SDK and I think such a component is pretty standard nowadays. Or did I simply overlook it?
Thank you guys for any advice.
Regards,
Thilo

Hi relaxtraja,
thanks for your reply!
I knew that there are a lot of auto-complete scripts on the web. What I was hoping was, that Adobe provides an officially supported auto-complete component optimized for mobile as part of the SDK (like in the Android SDK as I pointed out), but that doesn't seem to be the case. It's sad, because it's an essential part of modern UIs in mobile applications.
I've already created an auto-complete component by myself based on Spark components and I will end up using it. But I will have to optimize it for mobile applications beforehands. I just think something this essential should be provided by the SDK.
However, thanks for posting!
Regards,
Thilo

Excel file with auto-filter

I have a excel file with auto-filters (sort filters) i'm
trying to incorporate that into my web page via dreamweaver. what
is the best method on doing so? converting the file to any other
format will loose the auto-filter feature i have setup on the excel
file. any ideas would be appreciated.

Nor do I... Now! ;-)
BTW interesting error message. I've never seen that.
Walt
"Ken Binney" <[email protected]> wrote
in message
news:g8kig8$2tm$[email protected]..
> Thanks for posting that Walt, but I have no problems
reaching the site
> from New York.
>
>
>
> "Walt F. Schaefer" <[email protected]> wrote
in message
> news:g8kco3$o97$[email protected]..
>> link delivers this: This Account Has Exceeded Its
CPU Quota
>>
>> Whoops!
>>
>> --
>>
>> Walt
>>
>>
>> "Ken Binney"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:g8k8vp$j7e$[email protected]..
>>> You might also consider converting it to a table
and use javascript for
>>> sorting
>>> Here's a free script
>>>
>>>
http://www.mingyi.org/other/ts_demo.html
>>>
>>> "bronxbabie1"
<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:g8jsro$269$[email protected]..
>>>>I have a excel file with auto-filters (sort
filters) i'm trying to
>>>>incorporate
>>>> that into my web page via dreamweaver. what
is the best method on doing
>>>> so?
>>>> converting the file to any other format will
loose the auto-filter
>>>> feature i
>>>> have setup on the excel file. any ideas
would be appreciated.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

What's up with auto tone?

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