What's your 'safe' clip scale limit?

I've got a bunch of clips where I would like to scale each clip up so that the lapel mic being used is not seen.
Footage is from a Canon 5Dmkiii at full 1920x1080 25fps.
I understand it's not always going to be the same - and it's a bit subjective,
but as a rule of thumb, what is a 'safe' amount to scale up a clip by (i'm thinking of about 115%)

Scaling up is normally safe to about 5% - but it depends what you feel is noticeable.
How are you outputting the movie?
If it's going out on DVD, why not edit it in a DV timeline and then if you drop your 1080 footage into it, you'll be scaling DOWN quite considerably, so scaling back up a little to hide the lav mic would be a synch.
My advice is to try a short section, output that to whatever your intended delivery format is, and look at it - if it looks OK to you, who cares what the 'rules' say?
Andy

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What's your highest Credit Card limit?

When I applied for the Amex Delta Reserve card, I nearly fell out of my seat when she told me that my CL will be $25,000. Is there a maximum amount that personal revolving cards cannot exceed? What is your highest CL and which card is it? American Express Delta Reserve: $25,000.

Back in 2000 American Express listed on all Revolving Credit Cards $100k max... I would be surprised if they are not higher now... but as stated $25k seems to be the max for many people unless done by Amex... My father was at $25k on Platinum Optima and was declined CLI to $35k, but was able turn around and apply and instantly be approved for $10k or $15k (for get exact amount) on another Revolver... Over the years since 2000 he eventually had 6 total revolving cards with Amex totally $68k and 1 personal charge and 1 business charge (10k max ever charged on personal and $17k on business) of course then the credit crunch... lines drastically CLD. Bank of America is $250kDiscover used to be $50k, I think they are $100k now as someone posted but they also seem to be saying these days that they won't go over $15k without something, not sure what. Nordstrom is $50k but if you want to go above $15k you will most likely need to provide stuff. Citi is $250k i think Capital one is $25 or $30k I believe Neiman Marcus when they use to underwrite themselves they had no limit for "Some Customers" I mean they do sell a Private Plane and people have purchased them on Neiman Marcus card before... now it's with HSBC not sure if they can go million but I would assume Neiman Marcus would not want to loose those customers by selling the credit devision to HSBC. I have heard as high as $28k on Macy's Store but not sure what max limit is, hard to spend 10k in Macy's unless buying furniture or vacation packages I think!

Your What are Your Recommended TextPad Embellishments

As a long-time TextPad user I've been quite impressed with the editor's amazing and powerful features and is why I have been feeling lately that the ESTK is coming up a little on the short end as I begin this journey into writing attempting to write ExtendScript /JavaScript for InDesign.
With Theunis's compiled CHM help file as an added tool available from TextPad, I may try scripting away from the ESTK, but will miss ESTK's visual enhancement of the code.
There are so many add-ons available to the TextPad user to use, and as many of you have traveled this road already; what are your recommended clip libraries, macros and syntax definitions that would be worthwhile to the aspiring InDesign script writer?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Kelly
PS. Thanks to Theunis (aka Jongware) for making the CHM available to this community!

You're welcome, Kelly!
Personally, I use TextPad "as is", as it already does a great job on syntax highlighting Javascript. Actually I cannot remember if it did this natively, or if I had to download it somewhere -- have been using it for years like this. The only thing I added was a hotkey to the CHM help file (instructions to do so are in TextPad's Help on running external files).
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On the same: on my Mac I use TextWrangler to code. Are there any useful additions for that as well?

How do you find what bin your clips are in??

I was wondering if there is a way to tell where a clip in the timeline came from. Sometimes a project will have footage from other projects and bins. I would like to find out what bin a specific clip is in from the timeline. Thanks alot!

discoboy03 wrote:
I was wondering if there is a way to tell where a clip in the timeline came from. Sometimes a project will have footage from other projects and bins. I would like to find out what bin a specific clip is in from the timeline.
Stringray has got your answer (Reveal Master Clip aka Shift-F) but, just to save you some pain, if the clip in question is from another project, that function will fail.
One of the limitations of FCP is that it does not track that master/affiliate clip information across projects. If you drag a clip from another project - even if it's open in FCP currently - it becomes a master clip in the timeline (and project) you've dragged it to. (Normally, a clip dropped into a timeline is an affiliate clip, with the master clip residing in the Browser.)
This is also a limitation of XML interchange - it typically breaks the master/affiliate relationship.

What is your connectiom with GURUAID in India, is it safe??

I had trouble with my computer in May 2013 and called Comcast for help, they referred me to you at 877-458-5817. I ended up connected to and got assistance from GURUAID in India. I was convinced to get a contract for cleaning up the many problems on my computer for i year for $169. What is your connection to them. Do you have your own tech help for customers?? I am confused. Barbara???
Even the boxes below confuse me. Can you answer my question??

Mozilla has no phone number (for support), any website saying that is a scam.
you should report it to Mozilla => https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/legal/fraud-report/index.html

How to Determine Safe Max Memory Limit?

From what I understand, the amount of memory available to your AIR game on a device will vary depending on how many other apps the user is running, the type of device, etc.
So with this in mind, how does one define a safe max memory limit for a given device? What percentage of a device's total RAM can we assume we have access to?
Here are the iOS RAM Specs
iPod (4th Gen): 128Mb.
iPad 1: 256 MB
iPad 2, iPod Touch (5th Gen): 512 MB
iPad3: 1 GB
I already have highly optimized texture atlases using PVRTC ATF for best use of memory, but if you've ever worked with a passionate creative department, you'll know they always want more. I need to be able to tell them exactly how many spritesheets they have to work with for a given device - how would I do this?
NOTE: iPhones/iPod Touches/iPads all have a Unified Memory Architecture which mean that both the CPU and GPU share system memory, which means there is no dedicated GPU GRAM on these devices. So the RAM listed above, I assume, is shared by both the game logic and the GPU.

Update, I've found an Objective C post on Stack Overflow that answers this question
Here are the (rough) max memory limits to expect before an out-of-memory crash will occur:
iPad1: 127MB/256MB (crash amount/total amount)
iPad2: 275MB/512MB
iPad3: 645MB/1024MB
iPhone4: 325MB/512MB
Note that max memory limit will vary depending on how many apps a user is running, but these figures are a good rough guide. See the Stack Overflow post for more details.

What's YOUR Idea of an "Ideally Organized HD?

What's YOUR Idea of an "Ideally Organized HD?"
I've been giving this a lot of thought lately. Whereas it is obvious that OSX organizes your hard drive better than anything on Windoze, especially when you consider the power derived from using Spotlight, I have been wondering exactly WHAT, WHAT does an Ideally Organized Hard Drive look like? What are it's properties? I don't mean how it should look specifically to YOU, the single user. I mean what does an ideally organized Hard Drive look like to everyone running OSX? (which is everyone). What are some of the components of a ideally organized hard drive? What does it look like/feel like? Not necessarily in order of importance, I'll start this one off:
An Ideally Organized Hard Drive Has These Properties (feel free to add your ideas):
1) All the music, documents, apps, pictures and movies go into their designated locations, just for starters. You may even want to create another main Category such as I did, and call it "All Talk & Sound FX". Here's where I stick my voice, and talk radio, and verbal jokes etc. for example.
2) There are NO identical (duplicate) files, but the thorough and profuse use of Alias files are implemented. {{{if you have duplicates, and you update the one, you necessarily have to update the other, otherwise, you don't have duplicates anymore, right? But if you use an Alias, no matter which file, original or Alias, that you update, BOTH files are updated.}}}
3) The HD is organized for EASY Backup on a daily basis: Everything new gets placed into an "Everything New" file (call it what you want) on the Desktop, then this one folder is backed up daily, saved onto an external HD, then loaded back and now actually saved onto the HD as new stuff just once a week (in accordance to #1); this is the outcome from doing a Restore from this backed-up "Everything New" folder. Everything goes into this "Everything New" folder on a daily basis; however, Applications are installed immediately whereas everything else just gets popped into the "Everything New" folder for holding.
4) Many files are annotated in the Get Info Window with easy to find key words and comments. Spotlight will do the rest my friends!
5) A DMG of the HD (a perfect Clone which is achieved using your Tiger Disk--Disk Utility) is done on a weekly basis (heck, all you have to do is launch the software at night, go to bed, have an automatic shutdown on your Mac for about 3.5 hours later (for a 23GB DMG Disk Image)). {{Note that a Restore from the "Everything New" folder must be done first!, prior to making the DMG}} When this Disk Image is made, it will have All of your Preferences, All of your newly installed applications, All of your Bookmarks, All of your new additions to iCal, All of your new Addresses, EVERYTHING, and therefore these specific folders do NOT have to be backed up **separately** by using this process as I describe.
Once a week you will Restore from this DMG (which takes an hour if you have previously verified/mounted this image), then delete the week-old Backup of the "Everything Folder", because your HD now now has all these files added to it (remember, the key here is to do a Restore from the "Everything New" folder first, before you made the most recent DMG). You can now also delete any old Disk Images that you want, because you will be making more! (I always keep 2 or 3 on hand). You can now also delete any old "Everything New" backups from your External, because you will be making more of these backups as well!
6) Your Hard Drive should utilize the copious amount of custom icons, in order to quickly spot and identify files/folders.
7) You have created shortcuts (Alias') on the HD, which point to spots on the External HD, (which is not only used for Backup as recently described) to facilitate the transfer of large files (example: AIFF's) to/from the external HD. My External HD has a working "Powerbook" folder where these files are saved to, keeping my internal HD at a bare minimum of growing size, yet the files are easily uploaded/downloaded between the external and internal, and viewed, when the External is attached (of course) to the internal.
8) The hard drive lacks any sensitive material whatsoever, i.e. passwords are kept on an external hard drive, and new ones are backed up daily to the Everything New folder. Using a free program such as Password Vault also strengthens this area of security and organization. If the Passwords are kept to an external location, and yet are easily accessed by an Alias, then they are 100% safe to reside on the External, since the External would have to be attached in order for the passwords to be read.
9) Maintenance is run routinely on the HD, using a program such as Onyx, especially before and after the disk image process. You can also schedule Onyx to run the Apple maintenance scripts automatically, when you are asleep. Also part of this maintenance would be running a program such as Disk Warrior, before and after the disk image process. Onyx and Disk Warrior go hand in hand, and although you will not "see" (visually) HOW your HD has been organized more efficiently, you will experience the benefits of using Disk Warrior (faster/more responsive), which organized your HD Directory automatically.
10) Another nice little Utility is SpeedTools, which has a great program for Defraging files. Yes, I've found that Disk Defrag does work. Point #10 does nothing for "organizing", however I make this point because Disk Defrag does indeed help your HD to run more efficiently (thus faster).
*** Ohh by the way, maybe I'm saying the following as a joke, maybe I'm not. But if you follow my suggestions above, you wouldn't be so paranoid about downloading the latest update to Tiger (or Leopard when that comes out) because the old "Archive & Install" option becomes obsolete. If you run into trouble NOW, using my methods, you now have the peace of knowing that you have a perfectly Cloned Disk Image of your valuable, ideally organized Mac HD, residing on an external drive and just waiting to be called into action! ***
Finally, please note that I am not telling you how to organize your hard drive, I am only suggesting this as one way to do it, and the way that I do it. If you have something totally different from this, but it works for you, please post that. If you want to add to what I've said, go right ahead! But if you don't agree with something I've said, then by all means offer your own suggestion and be civil about it! Thanks!
~ Vito

You and everyone else that takes the time to read, and understand what I said, and can benefit from this, is WELCOME! ; )
By the way, I forgot to mention. I use "Micon" a little terrific freeware program (from VersionTracker) to make (initialize) my custom icons. I also use Graphic Converter to make my own original icons of anything I like. Don't underestimate the value in making your own custom icons-- they really stand out from the "standard old blue".
~ Vito

I have filled a backup drive with 1 terabyte and my computer is running very slow. what files are safe to delete to free up space?

what files are safe to put in the trash without messing up programs?

It would be wise to move your large libraries like your iPhoto, Aperture, Lightroom etc, iTunes, iMoves to an external HD. That will free up HD space. After you have relocated those libraries move the copies on the internal HD to the trash and empty the trash. This is the smartest and safest method. Apple explains how to move these libraries in:
iPhoto: How to move the Library to an EHD
iTunes: How to move the library to an EHD
iMovie: How to move the Library to an EHD

What is your Premiere, After Effects and SpeedGrade Workflow?

Hi Everyone,
I am an experienced editor who's switched to Adobe's CC barely a year ago. At the moment I'm in the midst of finishing up a corporate project and trying to think of the best workflow between Premiere, After Effects and SpeedGrade. I'm loving the Dynamic Link workflows, but at the some time I'm facing some obstacles, and am wondering how you guys do your work.
Let's say I finished the edit of the project and send the project via Dynamic Link to SG. I finish the grade and then decide to use the Dynamic Link to AE to add some titles with shapes and effects such as Fast Blur. This is where I'm facing the first problem. When I choose a clip to be 'Replaced with an AE Composition', the color correction is gone, and now if I grade in SG, it will naturally grade the titles I added. So, it seems as though my color grade is a waste of time and I have to do it the old school way of first absolutley completing the color grade, exporting, re-importing and then heading for titles and effects. That makes you lose quite a bit of "dynamics" in your work (and time aka money), if my clients want changes for example.
For simple animations with text, and shapes, this is not a big issue since you could easily add the titles to a second Video track. But when you use After Effects which changes the acutal image of a clip by adding effects, things don't work out too easily. But in any case, these might just be the limitations to the relativley new Dynamic Link workflow.
In my specific example, how would you go about it? What is your workflow? Maybe I'm missing out on some tips & tricks.
Be happy to hear from you guys and maybe get some expert knowledge.
Best,
fabian

Hey there,
I'm also looking for a solid workflow solution since adopting (and actually really liking) Speedgrade. So below is what I'm going to try which should work and will follow this thread to see if any other workflows pop up. Also typing this out here to help me with plan of attack
Project Specs - 3 minute corporate video with text animation, interviews, broll, and computer screen replacement
Edit in Premiere
Dynamic link to SpeedGrade for color correction
Open back up in Premiere, confirm all color corrections are applied, and then duplicate sequence to an AE Prep extension
In AE prep sequence, take all AE "base" shots (for computer screen composite or anything needing stabilization) up onto their own track (i.e. V5 & V6)
Add 10 frame handles to in & out, checkerboard clips as needed
Delete all other remaining content but keep blank spaces / no ripple deletes
Export this out to a ProRes4444 QT movie
Import ProRes4444 QT movie back into premiere, add over existing video layers in AE Prep extension sequence, and then there time out the screen shot replacement content to cover effect duration
Dynamic link AE Prep Premiere Pro sequence to AE
Do the AE work
Dynamic link back to Premiere
DoneHopefully
This was my similar work around back in the day before I had Automatic Duck in FCP to AE
Hope this helps anyone else - if there are any glaring "why would you do all that" points - please let me know I'll also report back if there are any horrible roadblocks throughout the process.
_Christina

What's your favorite of styling hyperlinks?

Hi,
what's your favorite way of styling hyperlinks?
Right now I've colored mine C=100 M=100 Y=0 Y=0 and made them underlined. I feel the underlining is a bit too harsh on my overall design. Then again if I don't underline them, how are people suppose to know they're links?
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The dialog bubbles may work -- though to me the carry overtones of a footnote or an endnote. But they pretty clearly seem to signal 'more info elsewhere', and that's definitely a step in the right direction.
I would be looking for something like a bent arrow -- perhaps Unicode U+21AA (↪), or perhaps something similar with a double arrow (Unicode U+21D2, ⇒), except I'd like it to have a similar curve at the left, half suggesting a 'click here to go elsewhere'. (Wingdings 3, character code 0xCA, is close.) But I could probably go for 0x58 in WIngdings 3, rotate it 90 degrees to the right, and perhaps tweak the small box into two smaller boxes of unequal size, suggesting movement.
Or perhaps just something that suggest a 'click here' -- some of the simpler designs in Altemus Bursts, or Altemus Pinwheel or Altemus Stars might work.
I would like something that tempted the reader into testing, and so encourage learning-by-doing. That would be helped by a similar symbol going the other way to indicate the 'back' of a web browser. Arrows help here -- they show a direction. Other designs -- bursts -- won't be a easily understood: what would be a reverse burst?.And what symbol would be used at the target end of the dialog bubbles to suggest 'go back'? (Added: perhaps a quad or square signalling 'end'?)
Arrows seem safer. Even guillemets might work, as long they won't be misread as quotes of some kind. Guillemets in a circle? There are some such glyphs like that in Wingdings. The standard 'fast forward' and 'fast backward' glyphs (in Webdings, say) may also work.
Actually ... this is the kind of problem I'd might want to suggest for a small project for a class for typeface designers.

What was your credit score when you did the shopping cart trick?

Hey everyone! I have removed all but two charge-offs and am paying monthly payments on one of those(Springleaf). My credit score is still terrible....a whopping 505....but, by removing 4 charge-offs it brought it up 36 points. It was 469. Gotta start somewhere. Lol. I have been reading about the shopping cart trick and wanted to ask y'all what was your credit score at when you succeeded? I have two judgments that I will file a Motion to Vacate this fall when I have them paid in full. Thank you very much. :-)

Tietza wrote:
Hey, SandiBeach22! I looked at your siggy and I am only seeing.... TOTAL CREDIT LINES: $166,750.00
EQ FICO: 744 (6/2015) I see a little plant which I think means that you are in the 'garden'? Which three did you try and your score is excellent at 744. Mine is barely over 500. Heck, I can't stay in the garden! Just started gettin the SCT to work! Have to many cc's. Maybe 18/19? Got Overstock recently with a 16k limit! I try to check out as a guest. It seems to work better for me. Got the Sportsman Visa the same way. No hp's at all and around 28,250.00 in cl's. Worth a shot or two. Keep trying. It took me about 2 months to get Overstock to work. VS should give you a card. Probably a few more too. Scores not excellent. Not until it's over 800.

Is there a way to "favorite" your favorite clips so they are easy to find and organized?

I just switched from Final Cut X and in Final Cut X there was a way to mark your favorite sections of clips and it would save them under your "Favorites" tab which made it super easy to find all the clips you want to use in your show. Is there a way to do this in premiere? What are some other strategies to achieving this workflow? I am cutting a documentary and theres way too much footage to not be able to mark your favorite clips.....

I'd say the closest thing in Premiere would be to save subclips. There's a command, Make Subclip, in the Clip menu as well as the Source Monitor's context menu. But if you're doing this a lot, I suspect you'll want to use keyboard shortcuts. The default for Make Subclip is CTRL/CMD+U, but when I was creating many, many subclips in the course of testing the "soft" subclip feature (new to CC7.0), I changed it to "P" because it's adjacent to JKL and I/O. Here's my workflow:
JKL to scrub to in point (or jump via NumPad)
"I" to set In Point
JKL to out point
O
P
enter subclip name
Press Enter
Most people seem to prefer working with the "Restrict Trims to Subclip Boundaries" option disabled. That creates "soft" subclips. With the old "hard" subclips, if you decided that you wanted to trim out beyond the original subclip boundaries, you have to first change the Subclip Start +/or End via the Edit Subclip dialog
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Note also that the current version (7.2.2) has some bugs with subclips saved from merged clips. If you're working with merged clips, we recommend using the Duplicate command rather making subclips.

What's a safe DVD ripper to make copy of personal DVD movie and other movies?

What's a safe DVD ripper to make copy of personal DVD movie and then make a copy to another blank DVD?

The easiest way is to use Disk Utility to create a disk image of the DVD; you can then burn that to a blank DVD (and indeed play it using the DVD player).
Insert your DVD. Open Disk Utility and select it in the sidebar (the disk itself, not the drive it's in.) Click 'New Image' in the toolbar.
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Obviously this will not work on a commercially issued DVD, only on ones you make yourself or which are not DRM protected.

Scale?? Does decreasing a clips scale have the same effect on quality as..

Does decreasing a clips scale have the same effect on quality as increasing? So for example if i lower the scale to 90 is the compression that takes place as bad for image quality as increasing an image? or is it better? thanks kellam

Does decreasing a clips scale have the same effect on
quality as increasing? So for example if i lower the
scale to 90 is the compression that takes place as
bad for image quality as increasing an image? or is
it better? thanks kellam
Well, taking the example you mentioned, if you decrease or increase the size of the image, it doesn't have to affect the original quality of your media. Of course, if you increase the image size, the quality will be "poor" in the sense that you are zooming to the details of your image. Depending on the compression you are working on, the more compression have (DV as lowest), the more decreasing on the sharpness will happen in the increasing of the picture.
Increasing doesn't gets better than decreasing.
Sometimes I work with photos in FCP, and to prevent this loss, I save the photo in 1440x960 to keep the most definition that a picture can give me, when the zooming in time would arrive, that Image Size covers me up on keeping a good quality in my Final result, is simply the double of the standard.
Obviusly, decreasing does not affect so much in quality.
Hope this helps

What is a safe reliable playstation emulator for mac

What is a safe, reliable playstation emulator for mac ?

I have yet to see a 'safe & reliable' PSX emulator on OS X - they crash and are buggy & generally unreliable from the few I have seen.
You can look at PCSX (PS1)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/pcsxosx/
and PCSX2 (PS2)
http://pcsx2mac.net/downloads/
These are cumbersome to install and may require you to get files from your original Sony hardware.
I'm hoping someone else can post a better option, these are not that great.

What's your 'safe' clip scale limit?

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