What settings give the BEST audio quality (original audio CD to iTunes)

Further to my last post, can ya'll PLEASE help me get the bottom of this? I have heard so many different opinions & need to resolve ASAP....
What pref' settings will give me the VERY BEST audio quality, when importing original audio CD's into iTunes 4?
File size is of no issue (I have TONS of storage). I aim to import all at the highest quality possible (files need to be "broadcast quality" - for playing through a big PA system). I have been advised to either.....
1. Import using the AAC encoder at a stereo bit rate of 320 kbps with a sample rate of 48.000 kHz.
2. Import using AIFF (lossless uncompressed).
3. Import using Apple Lossless (lossless compressed).
WHICH ONE SHOULD I USE? Bearing in mind that the files will be played LOUD through a professional PA system & I'd prefer the crowd not to notice a significant diference between iTune files & orginal audio CD's (I will be spining both, side by side).
Cheers - Sweetamix.

You are finding out that the answer to this question tough. Everyone has their own opinion on this one.
I saved the responses to a topic I opened six months ago on this same subject. I saved them and cut and pasted them into one document. Here were the answers I received. Good luck. bob
Subject: Re: Classical Music & Bitrate
Date: Sunday, June 26, 2005 11:12 PM
To: <[email protected]>
RE: Classical Music & Bitrate
My experience with classical music (and music in general) is that the higher the bitrate, the better the quality and richness of the music. On the other hand, there is a limit to how much distinction your ears can make, and I think that anything above 192 kbps (mp3 format) is not significantly better (and not worth the larger file size). And in terms of volume adjustment, I personally have not found any need for it.
RE: Classical Music & Bitrate
I copied the same CD to my computer in 128, 160, 192, and 320 bitrates, and I couldn't tell a difference between any of 'em. I was listening to them with Grado SR60 headphones too.
RE: Classical Music & Bitrate
I’m sure you will get several if not many responses. You may also find they vary with the preference of the individual. However there are some rules of thumb. Generally speaking I think you will indeed find the higher the bit rate brings you closer to the CD sound.
Certainly, 32-bit rate does not offer very good sound quality. Actually going from 32 to 320 should have been noticeably better, if not…. Then you’re in good shape. Because what you don’t know is there, can’t be missed.
Also, the bit rate is only part of the equation. What format codec <http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=51910> are your songs ripped to.
Consider the following - iPod: About compatible song formats
<http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=61476>
MP3 (from 32 Kbps to 320 Kbps)
MP3 Variable Bit Rate (VBR)
AIFF
WAV
M4A AAC
Apple Lossless Encoder
It sounds to me as though your songs may be in MP3 format. As a suggestion you might try ripping your CD’s to 128 AAC format. The general consensus is that AAC is better than MP3. Give it a shot…for the heck of it, and see what you think.
Finally in the end…..it matters little what we all might think….If you think your sounds are better ripped at a MP3 320 bit rate……Great. If not…experiment, and play around till you find what sounds wonderful to you!
RE: Classical Music & Bitrate
Sorry for taking so long to get back to this thread: had two twelve-hour work days in a row.
I did a Get Info on a typical piece in my iTunes and got this
Kind: AAC Audio File
Bit Rate: 128kb (have some at 192 & 2 or 3 at 320)
Sample Rate: 44.100 kHz
Profile: Low Complexity
Channels: Stereo
Volume: +2.3
I was troubled that one responder couldn't tell the difference among 128, 160, 192, and 320 bitrates even using Grado SR60 headphones!
And another seems to be of a similar opinion when he says that I think that anything above 192 kbps (mp3 format) is not significantly better (and not worth the larger file size). Does this apply to AAC format, too?
However, I am going to continue to add tunes at the 320 bitrate - for a while - because I swear that I can tell a difference when I play them over my car radio via the cassette adapter.

Similar Messages

  • Hooking up a monitor  to m macbook pro ?what would give the best picture ??

    i just picked up a monitor to hook up to my macbook pro the moniter is 1080 p what would give the best picture vga or dvi ??? for full 1080 p
    Message was edited by: go lakers

    You want to go directly from the video out of your MacBookPro to DVI. Don't involve VGA if at all possible.
    Depending on the exact model MacBookPro you have, it has either a miniDVI out or a miniDisplayPort out.
    • For miniDVI out, all you need is a miniDVI-to-DVI cable or a miniDVI-to-HDMI cable.
    • For miniDisplayPort out, you will need the Apple miniDisplayPort-to-DVI adapter plus either a DVI-to-DVI cable or a DVI-to-HDMI cable to connect to your monitor.
    Again, what make/model monitor do you have?

  • What settings give the highest quality video for playback on an ipad?

    Hello there,
    I have had success exporting movies and playing them on my ipad by simply selecting the size that shows is compatible with ipad in the share/export format choosing chart.
    However, knowing that I have more control by exporting using quicktime, I'm wondering what the best video type and best settings are for ipad viewing?
    thanks in advance
    Marc

    If you Share to Media Browser you'll see the largest available iPad format for your media.

  • 2010 iMac 2.93 i7 27" or 2011 2.8 i7 21.5" - which will suit better long-term?  I do a fair amount of audio, video editing and photoshop, but I have a limited budget.  What's going to give the best bang-for-buck for the next 3-5 yrs?

    I do a fair amount of audio, video editing and photoshop, but I have a limited budget.  What's going to give the best bang-for-buck for the next 3-5 yrs?  My current machine is a 13" Macbook unibody 2.4 Core 2 Duo w/ 4Gb Ram so it's time to move forward with more power and screen real estate!

    Hello, Jeff
    I could never edit on a 13" screen. I'm currently using a 17" MBP i7 Early 2011 as a fast replacement to my aged 20" Intel iMac.
    Both systems are not that far apart on stats and you will find that processing HD video will rely highly on the read/write to your storage. Myself, I'd be eye balling the 2011 for the Thunderbolt port so HD Video export/compression doesn't take forever! Currently processing a finished HD project for DVD uses at most 20% of my total CPU capacity. The FW800 drive is the big bottleneck! (I know I need at least a RAID to see a real speed boost).
    How good your eyes are and your usage style would dictate if the difference in screen size make a difference to you.

  • What format is the best audio format to use in iPod touch?

    I want to know the difference between MP3, AAC and Apple Loose-less audio formats and I want to know as soon as possible. I knew that AAC and Apple Loose-less formats use more size than MP3. That's fine with me. I just want to listen my songs with the best possible quality. What is the best audio format?

    Apple Lossless would give you quality identical to that of the original CD, but the files will be very large. A 3-minute song in Apple Lossless will be around 18 megabytes, versus about 6 megabytes for the same song compressed with AAC at 256 kbps. For an iPod, Apple Lossless is probably not an optimal format, since unless you have very high quality earphones or connect your iPod to a good stereo playback system, you won't really take advantage of the quality of Apple Lossless.
    For most people, the optimal tradeoff of quality versus file size is AAC at 256kbps. But as Niel suggestion, import a couple of CDs using different codecs and bit rates and decide for yourself. Quality depends on your playback system and what your ears can hear, so only you can decide what will be optimal for your situation.
    Regards.

  • (workflow question) - What is the best way to handle audio in a large Premiere project?

    Hey all,
    This might probably be suitable for any version of Premiere, but just in case, I use CS4 (Master Collection)
    I am wrestling in my brain about the best way to handle audio in my project to cut down on the time I am working on it.
    This project I just finished was a 10 minute video for a customer shot on miniDV (HVX-200) cut down from 3 hours of tape.
    I edited my whole project down to what looked good, and then I decided I needed to clean up all the Audio using Soundbooth, So I had to go in clip by clip, using the Edit in SoundBooth --> Render and Replace method on every clip. I couldn't find a way to batch edit any audio in Soundbooth.
    For every clip, I performed similar actions---
    1) both tracks of audio were recorded with 2 different microphones (2 mono tracks), so I needed only audio from 1 track - I used SB to cut and paste the good track over the other track.
    2) amplified the audio
    3) cleaned up the background noise with the noise filter
    I am sure there has to be a better workflow option than what I just did (going clip by clip), Can someone give me some advice on how best to handle audio in a situation like this?
    Should I have just rendered out new audio for the whole tape I was using, and then edit from that?
    Should I have rendered out the audio after I edited the clips into one long track and performed the actions I needed on it? or something entirely different? It was a very slow, tedious process.
    Thanks,
    Aza

    Hi, Aza.
    Given that my background is audio and I'm just coming into the brave new world of visual bits and bytes, I would second Hunt's recommendation regarding exporting the entire video's audio as one wav file, working on it, and then reimporting. I do this as one of the last stages, when I know I have the editing done, with an ear towards consistency from beginning to end.
    One of the benefits of this approach is that you can manage all audio in the same context. For example, if you want to normalize, compress or limit your audio, doing it a clip at a time will make it difficult for you to match levels consistently or find a compression setting that works smoothly across the board. It's likely that there will instead be subtle or obvious differences between each clip you worked on.
    When all your audio is in one file you can, for instance, look at the entire wave form, see that limiting to -6 db would trim off most of the unnecessary peaks, triim it down, and then normalize it all. You may still have to do some tweaking here and there, but it gets you much farther down the road, much more easily.Same goes for reverb, EQ or other effects where you want the same feel throughout the entire video.
    Hope this helps,
    Chris

  • What are the best setting to export video from after effects to get the best video quality ?

    Hi
    I am editing a raw time lapse in after effects and also some short video clips I would like to export them from after effects and upload them online afterwards but i get a bit lost in exporting settings and formats and mbps..
    What are the best settings to export a video and get best quality(high) in full hd 1080 ? in 4k ? and what would be the best setting to export animations/logo/intro and get best quality ?
    Thank you very much.

    Thanks for reply !
    I used until now quicktime in H264 codec was that OK ?
    two more questions :
    what are the export settings for 4k files for web/you tube ?
    to play on my PC using  windows media player or Quicktime player and getting the best quality ?
    Thanks in advance.

  • What is the best way/quality of connecting my Mac Mini to an external HiFi system?

    Hello,
    I am using my Mac Mini for storing and playing music using iTunes.
    In terms of audio quality, what would be the best option for connecting the Mac Mini to my external HiFi system?
    1) Using an optical cable?
    2) Using a analog cable?
    3) Using a USB connected DAC? (maybe the best option but surely the most expensive)
    If the option 3 is only the good one, would suggest a DAC product?
    Thx for your help
    Best Regards,
    -- Jean-Baptiste

    The optical output is capable of doing 5.1 surround sound (as well as 2.1 or basic stereo) and is therefore more than capable of fully supporting lossless audio formats like AIFF, WAV, FLAC, Apple Lossless as well as all DVD audio formats. The optical (TOS-Link) interface is not capable of fully supporting the higher end audio standards supported by Blu-Ray discs.
    For full Blu-Ray support you would have to use a HDMI interface.
    So with regards to purely CD sourced material and even potentially DVD-A (DVD Audio discs), and SACD (Super Audio CD) it should be fine.
    Some anally retentive audio fanatics will say that potentially some of the signal can be lost over a TOS-Link optical connection and they would insist on having an audio interface to act as a dedicated DAC (Digital Audio Convertor) with direct links to the speakers. I would say ordinary humans will be more than happy with a lossless audio format being sent over an optical link which will definately be superior to AAC over a copper wired link.

  • I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.

    I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.
    From what I read, I have 2 choices: 1. to install OSX and then upgrade to Mavericks, but I'm not sure if this would be possible (to upgrade directly from OSX to Mavericks); and 2. to use a software called Super Duper.
    I wouldn't like to have to use a third party software to do this, so the question is: is there a better way to install directly the Mavericks not having to use a third party software?

    Install the new drive in the computer.
    Install the old drive in an external USB or Firewire enclosure.
    Boot the computer from the Recovery HD on the external drive.
    Use Disk Utility to partition and format the new internal drive.
    Clone your external drive to the internal drive.
    How to replace or upgrade a drive in a laptop
    Step One: Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
    Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
    If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
    Step Two: Remove the old drive and install the new drive.  Place the old drive in an external USB enclosure.  You can buy one at OWC who is also a good vendor for drives.
    Step Three: Boot from the Recovery HD on the external drive.  Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager appears.  Select the icon for the Recovery HD then click on the downward pointing arrow button.
    Step Four: New Hard Drive Preparation
      1. Open Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
      2. After DU loads select your new hard drive (this is the entry with the
          mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of
          the drive in DU's status area.  If it does not say "Verified" then the drive
          is failing or has failed and will need replacing.  Otherwise, click on the
          Partition tab in the DU main window.
      3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from
          the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended
          (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to
          GUID  then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and
          wait until the process has completed.
      4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the
          drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main
          window.
      5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the
          Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to
          return to the Erase window.
      6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several
          hours depending upon the drive size.
    Step Five: Clone the old drive to the new drive
      1. Using Disk Utility still opened.
      2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
      3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
      4. Check the box labeled Erase destination.
      5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the
          Destination entry field.
      6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the
          Source entry field.
      7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
    Destination means the new internal drive. Source means the old external drive.
    Step Six: Open the Startup Disk preferences and select the new internal volume.  Click on the Restart button.  You should boot from the new drive.  Eject the external drive and disconnect it from the computer.

  • I'm going to save my old Hi8 tapes on a hard disk using final cut pro x, to save it for the future. But how shall I export it, and in what will be the best quality to save it in?

    I'm going to save my old Hi8 tapes on a hard disk using final cut pro x, to save it for the future. But how shall I export it, and in what will be the best quality to save it in?

    Hi Carsten...good luck with your project.. I had just about as many Video8 & Hi8 tapes as
    you that I digitized and eventually brought into FCPX..took me many months not weeks
    to do so,BTW, as each tape was 60-90 minutes in lenght...and many hundreds of
    gigab ytes of storage ( uncompressed AVI files)..it's tedious work unless you plan to farm
    it out to a processing house...also regarding eventual storage format...remember
    Hi8 is 400 lines or about 540X480 in todays resoultion metrics..you can't make hi-def out
    of source that starts out as 400 lines...in my case I rewrapped the avi files into .mov
    containers and imported the mov files into FCPX where I got rid of the hundreds of
    minutes of Colorado mountain landscapes to get to that one minute shot of the kids
    on horseback  ( late 80's for most of my archives)..so its a job..scouring thru 30X90 min
    of source to not miss those precious memories takes diligence and hard work but its worth
    it; eventually I encode the uncompressed video I want to save in H.264 format Staandard
    Def not HiDef

  • Creating the Best Video Quality for YouTube Using FCE

    Hey guys, have a quick question.  I'm making drum covers for YouTube, and I want the best possible quality for my viewers.  I use Final Cut Express 4.0.1 on my MacBook Pro, and Log and Transfer the video footage from a HDR-CX160 Sony AVCHD Handycam.   What are my best options? 
    Thank you!
    Justin

    In every aspect of life there is no such thing as one best option as it all depends on your particular circumstances.
    Here is a good starting point for you to decide what suits you best.
    When you have edited your project in FCE try these settings:-
    Select File>Export>Using QT Conversion.
    Click the "Options"  button and when the the Options window opens you will see  "Size", "Settings" and "Sound" buttons.
    Click the Size button and set 1920 x 1080
    Click  the Settings button and  select:-
    Compression Type . . . . H.264
    Frame Rate . . . . . . . . . Current
    Key Frames . . . . . . . . . Automatic
    Compressor Quality . . . High
    Encoding . . . . . . . . . . "Faster" encode will give almost the same quality as "Best" but is twice as fast - your decision!
    Data Rate . . . . . . . . . . Restrict to 10,000kbps  (Don't use a comma when you enter the number)
    Then click the "Audio" button and make sure that AAC has been selected.
    These settings should give very good quality results fairly quickly, which should play well. Your file size will be around 5GB per hour.
    Some people prefer to use the smaller 1280 x 720, in which case the Data Rate should be 5,000kbps.
    I suggest you do a quick test with a film under one minute long to see how it looks as there is nothing worse than spending hours encoding a long project only to find that the settings were unsuitable.

  • Help me on choosing the best sound quality for my music on my itunes!!!

    I heard that AIFF Encoder is the best sound quality you can import your music into Itunes. On the settings for AIFF Encoder do you know what Sample Rate, Sample Size, and what Channel I should set it to? Should I just leave them on Auto? How about if I have a HDCD? What are your suggestions?

    I agree use Apple Lossless. Bizarrely it is also easier to share Apple Lossless with Windows Media Player than AIFF.
    I have my entire iTunes library in Apple Lossless and shared with WMP and also Media Center 2005. I can also use it in full lossless quality with Roku SoundBridge, Apple TV, iPhone, iPod, etc. etc. etc.

  • Does Adobe Reader for iOS have the ability to open inbedded links to additional PDF docs?  If not, then what would be the best way to use these already created PDF's?

    Does Adobe Reader for iOS have the ability to open inbedded links created with Acrobat Standard to additional PDF docs?  If not, then what would be the best way to use these already created PDF's on an I Pad?

    driddy61,
    As of June 2014, none of the Adobe Reader mobile products support the hyperlink action for opening a separate PDF document.
    Adobe Reader for iOS
    Adobe Reader for Android
    Adobe Reader Touch for Windows 8
    In addition, the Reader mobile products do not open multiple windows/documents simultaneously, which would make the navigation between PDF documents nearly impossible. (Once a hyperlink takes you to a different PDF document, you have no way to go back to the original PDF document.)
    The only Adobe Reader product that fulfills your department's requirements is Adobe Reader XI (mostly for Windows/Mac desktop/laptop computers).  Acrobat Pro and Standard are paid products.
    Because you are in search of a less expensive device for your department, you could get a Windows tablet instead of a Windows desktop/laptop computer. Microsoft Surface Pro (that you've mentioned in your previous reply) is just one example.  You can also find other less expensive Windows tablets.
    Tablets
    However, please keep in mind that there are two different types of Windows tablets running two different operating systems.
    (a) A Windows tablet with an Intel-based processor running Windows 8.1 Pro
    Example: Surface Pro 3
    You can install and run traditional desktop apps (e.g. Adobe Reader XI) and new Windows Store apps ("Modern" or "Metro-style" apps).
    (b) A Windows tablet with an ARM-based processor running Windows RT 8.1
    Example: Surface 2
    You can only install and run Windows Store apps (e.g. Adobe Reader Touch) but not traditional desktop apps like Adobe Reader XI.
    In general, type (b) tablets are more affordable than type (a) tablets.  However, if you want to run Adobe Reader XI, you do need to check the technical specification of each tablet and make sure the following conditions are met.
    Processor: Intel
    Operating system:  Windows 8/8.1 or Windows 8/8.1 Pro, not RT
    Hope this helps you choose the right device for your department.  Please let us know if you have any questions about system requirements or supported features in the Adobe Reader products.

  • Hi i am a teacher and am looking to buy an iPad - we use SIMS (this isnt compatable with an IPad) but i can log into it via a virtual desktop.  What wold be the best iPad to buy?

    hi there
    im looking to buy an ipad- we use SIMS at school and i need to be able to log into it.  I can via a virtual desktop via the college wireless netork.  I also have work on the network.  What would be the best IPAD to buy?

    You have the choice of a full size iPad or the iPad Mini...both come as either WiFi only or WiFi+cellular data service.  With the cellular data model you can see if there is a SIM available that is appropriate.  Either model is capable of attaching to a wireless network to give you access.  Neither is capable of a wired connection, must be wireless.
    So, the question is which size is the best for your personal use, and do you want cellular data access - great thing to have.  Then the decision is which storage capacity do you want...keep in mind that the iPad is not upgradable after purchase so get the storage you really want to start out.

  • My wife has gave me her old ipad what would be the best way to set up her new ipad and to have my own ID?

    My wife has gave me her old ipad what would be the best way to set up her new ipad and to have my own ID?

    Backup the old iPad first, either to itunes or iCloud.
    Once that is done, setup the new iPad from the backup. Choose the Restore from Backup option when setting up the new iPad.
    iOS: How to back up /  Restore
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1766
    When that is done, wipe the old iPad clean and set up as new.
    Settings->General->Reset->Erase all Content and Settings
    You can create a new Apple Id when you set up the iPad again.

Maybe you are looking for