What to do about quality????

I shot some video with my Canon G20 in full HD and made a video with adobe premiere pro and encore. The problem is, When I play it on the tv, it is terrible quality. Will someone please help me to figure out how to make the quality of this video the best possible. I rendered the entire project in premiere pro before dynamic linking the video to encore. I am a beginner at editing videos so please try to tell me the best step by step way to make this video crystal clear on my TV. Thanks so much. Matt

DVD is standard definition, so HD video gets downrezzed. For best quality, go Blu-ray.
DVD quality should not be terrible using dynamic link, but your better quality will be to export as MPEG2-DVD from Premiere/Adobe Media Encoder, using scale to fill in the export settings. To test bitrate quality, set it to CBR 8 for a 15 minute section that includes motion. Then create a simple DVD.
Be sure you are using an upscaling player (true of most bluray players playing DVDs).

Similar Messages

What setting is 'DVD quality' widescreen - ie about 3gb per hour?

I have videod (isn't that a such a quaint 20th century word for the podcast age?) a conference and I want to archive the footage to store on a DVD for later reediting.
The "full quality" setting is massive, I only have 90 mins, but a 20 min clip takes up over 10Gb
The 'CD-rom quality' is just not not dvd quality.
(I am using iMovie 06 btw, i will move onto 08 when it is finished)
Ideally, I would just burn the whole lot raw with iDVD and import it again if i need to reedit - but (for copyright as opposed to technical reasons i suppose) we can't just put a dvd in the slot and rip it like we can an audio cd in iTunes. I have tried the workarounds - but none of them worked for me.
Anyway, I digress: What setting is 'DVD quality' widescreen - ie about 3gb per hour?

Hi there.
*Keep the quality*
0nce you have compressed data - you can't get the original quality back - so store as full quality as possible - and in several formats so there is always a backup.
Media
data cds don't hold that much - 700mb - so forget about them for quality productions and archiving
dvd-roms hold much more - 4,700mb (you can get dual layer ones that double it)
*'share' settings*
Now, you have 2 options for saving the movie;
1. as a file on a DVD-Rom (a compact .mov or a massive.dv)
2. as a proper playable DVD (iDVD)
If the "full quality" iM setting is too big a file for a dvd-rom (and you will be lucky to get 10 mins of footage in 4.7gb), then you could 'iDVD' it and that way you will get a good quality movie up to nearly 2 hours on a disc disc that can be played on most machines (and could even be ripped back into an editable form using third party software)
Alternatively, save it using 'expert settings' listed above and you will probably get good enough results for a longer film without having to burn it as a playable (but uneditable) dvd.
Bear in mind that unless you are using a pro camera, you may not notice the much difference with the higher settings.
Good luck - seeing your work on the big screen is a blast!

Where's the music on iTunes, and what's with the quality and compatibility?

I'm just curious as to whether anyone else has had this issue or not: Does anyone else feel like, after searching for specific songs, there's just little to nothing in the database? I feel like most of my searches are pointless because iTunes has either no data of my requested search and/or only has bits and pieces of it.
Another question I have: After having a slightly successful search, why am I left with low quality tunes? I mean, you can hear the compression... badly. (I know it's not my speakers)
Last question: If I'm paying for the song, shouldn't I be allowed to download a universal file? iTunes uses a unique format that no other application uses. In other words, more money has to be spend for m4a to mp3 converters (unless you're a cracker [not a racial comment]).
To me, I value iTunes and its team, so I'm sorry if I've offended anyone. I understand there are contracts involved with the artists and it's hard to please ALL of the subscribers. But seriously, where's the music on iTunes, and what's with the quality and compatibility?
Custom Windows XP Pro Negative, I am a meat popsicle.

Today I thought of finally putting lyrics on my songs. So I've been quite some time busy doing that, then I tried it on my iPad (2) and I can't find them. Just as the people above say. Then I went to search where I can find them and I found this page. I'm really dissapointed and I don't understand how something like this could happen. So I hope Apple will fix this soon.
(I'm just posting this so that Apple will do something about it)

Anybody know what resolution and KBPS quality apple use in their SD movies?

I want to digitize some of my movies into the MP4 format so I can watch it on my apple tv.
this is mostly children tv (thomas tank engine and so on). problem with dvd's is that we need to change often and they get worn. children do change their mind very often.
so, a digitized version in my Apple tv would be nice.
I Use DVD FAB 5.
but when it comes to the kbps setting what should I choose?
I think that I can use the same setting as Apple them self. I bought walle movie and that was 1.1 GB and had very nice look.
anybody know what resolution and KBPS quality apple use in their SD movies?

anybody know what resolution and KBPS quality apple use in their SD movies?
They are generally encoded at 1500 Kbps for video and 128 Kbps for audio and a resolution of 640 x 480 depending on the aspect ratio.
The ToU of this forum forbid discussion about circumventing copy protection, so I'm not willing to comment on the rest of your question.
http://discussions.apple.com/help.jspa#terms

What the most stable quality 4gb (2x2gb) memory for the P6n SLi Platinum?

Hi,
I'm looking for the most stable and very good quality 4gb of ram for the P6N sli platinum MB - what make does everyone recommend for this board?
I note that Kingston value ram is mentioned on the Approved list but I wanted something faster than the valueram?
Does anyone have either G.Skill or super talent and if so how do they work? Any other makes that you can recommend?
I know that there have been issue swith 4gb of ram for Xp/Vista 32 bit systems but from what I am reading hopefully the next bios should resolve this ...?
Thanks as this is the only item that's holding up my build now !

I don´t know whats the most stable 4GB solution is, I only can tell you, that I use Micron/Crucial mamory for years and never had any problems.
Actually in my new P6N-SLI Platinum are working 4 1GB dimms of crucial value ram ddr2-667 without problems.
There is a new bois version 1.22 for the platinum which solved the 4GB problem of earlier bios versions.
That was a bios problem and not a problem of the ram.
Manufacturer as Gskill on their GBHZ6400 modules and OCZ on their 1066 SLI modules are using the same Micron chips called D9GMH which are on my values.
They have great potential above the rated 667 speed. Cause i´m coming from germany and at the moment the prices of memory here are very cheap, a lot of people are thinking about upgrading their memory.
All what I read about here in germany G.Skill, Mushkin(very expensive), OCZ, A-data, TeamGroup are the most reliable rams
when it comes to high speeds and low latency modules.
At least I recommend the Crucial Ballistix ddr800 if you are not able to handle special settings in the motherboard bios.
And of course there are coming 2GB modules from most of the manufacturers, so you only need 2 modules for 4GB.
It´s your choice...
greetings from germany
gonzos-revenge

I'm getting this error statement: XULRUNNER error: platform version 6.0.2 is not compatible with min etc max etc6.0.1 - what is this about and how can it be corrected?

This is what I think may have happened. The other day, Thursday Sept 8th, I shut down my pc in the middle of a Firefox upgrade. Now when I try to access Firefox on my pc, I get this error message:
XULRUNNER Error: Platform version '6.0.2 is not compatible with min Version >= 6.0.1 max Version < 6.0.1
What is this about and how can I retsore access to Firefox on my pc?

If you use ZoneAlarm Extreme Security then try to disable Virtualization.
Do a clean reinstall and delete the Firefox program folder.
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Browser_will_not_start_up#XULRunner_error_after_an_update
*[[/questions/869812]]
*[[/questions/869951]]

I have just sought to update my lightroom and am now unable to access the develop function and get a note stating that I have reduced functionality what it this about and how do I get my product back

I have just sought to update my lightroom and am now unable to access the develop function and get a note stating that I have reduced functionality what it this about and how do I get my product back

Hi there
I have version 5.7 and every time I opened it I was told that updates are available and to click on the icon to access these. Instead it just took me to the
adobe page with nowhere visible to update. I then sought to download lightroom cc and this is when I could not access the 'develop' section due to reduced
functionality It was apparent that my photos had been put in cc but no way to access them unless I wanted to subscribe.
I have since remedied the problem as my original lightroom 5.7 icon is still available on the desktop and have gone back to that. I do feel that this is a bit
of a rip off and an unnecessary waste of my time though.
Thank you for your prompt reply by the way.
Carlo
Message Received: May 04 2015, 04:52 PM
From: "dj_paige" <[email protected]>
To: "Carlo Bragagnolo" <[email protected]>
Cc:
Subject: I have just sought to update my lightroom and am now unable to access the develop function and get a note stating that I have
reduced functionality what it this about and how do I get my product back
dj_paige created the discussion
"I have just sought to update my lightroom and am now unable to access the develop function and get a note stating that I have reduced functionality what it
this about and how do I get my product back"
To view the discussion, visit: https://forums.adobe.com/message/7510559#7510559
>

What is it about InDesign CS5 that someone would get this error message?

Hi,
What is is about the .swf file that is generated from the InDesign CS5 interactive workspace that someone would get the following error message when they go to view the site I created?
"This file may contain newer information that this viewer can support. It may not open or display correctly. Adobe suggests that you upgrade to the latest versions of our Acrobat products blah blah blah."
The site doesn't seem to work for four Mac users, but works fine for at least one PC user.
I'm trying to figure out how to save the .swf file down to Flash Player 9, which I've done by exporting a .fla file, then adjusting the Publish setting in Flash CS5. But that throws a wrench into the works...all the animations go haywire by continuously looping and the scale of all the text elements on the first page is much larger than it should be.
Thanks, Steve

John Black3 wrote:
Many of my songs in my iTunes Library no longer play. I get this error message: "The song xxx could not be used because the original file could not be found. Would you like to locate it?
this usually happens when a user moves or deletes files in the finder - a sure way to upset iTunes.
did you move or delete files in the finder ?
I cannot locate the song.
if you let iTunes manage your library, all your content will be in <MacintoshHD>/users/<yourname>/music/iTunes/iTunes music (or media)/music. did you look there ? tried a spotlight search ?
if the files are really gone, and have been purchased from the iTunes store, see Downloading past purchases from the App Store, iBookstore, and iTunes Store.

What is it about this markup that breaks DW CS3 Design View Editing?

Folks:
I'm attaching very simple --and apparently completely valid-- markup that generates the text shown between the markers below:
------------start----------------
yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda yadda badda.
------------end----------------
As you can see by examining the file, it contains only an span enclosing text and spaces, and some following breaks. This file passes DW validation: no errors or warnings.
If I open this file in DW CS3 Design View, select and delete the last word, "badda", the entire text --every "yadda"-- is also deleted. All that text is really gone -- if I immediately save the file and re-open it, there is no text content at all, just the span pair, spaces, and the trailing breaks. This is completely repeatable.
When you edit this file, do you get the same result?
The attached file is a cut-down, simplified version of a production file that exhibits this issue. (That file also passes validation.)   When I delete single words, entire content paragraphs disappear.   So this is not just a point of curiosity. I need to figure out how to fix the production code and avoid this problem in the future.
What is it about the attached markup that causes this issue? I've fooled around with this code quite a bit and the best I can figure out is that DW is confused when both the start- and end- span tags are followed immediately by a line break. Inserting a space in either place makes the issue go away.   But the production code doesn't have any occurances of this pattern. And, anyway, line-breaks have no significance to html, just for source-code formatting, right?
Am I missing something incredibly obvious?
TIA
hen3ry

Nancy O:
Thank you for your response, which gave me valuable clues to understanding the issues.   (Specifically, it led me to re-read and understand better the nitty-gritty of the HTML4 specs, section 7, "The global structure of an HTML Document", especially 7.5.1 The BODY element.)
I believe you are saying --in sum-- that to be reliably edited in DW, each source file must comprise a syntactically correct and complete HTML Document.
I am attaching a second file, "badcode2.html", modified substantially as you suggest. It passes the DW validator, the validator.w3.org test, and the www.totalvalidator.com test.    No errors or warnings.
I do this:   Launch DW, open this file, choose Design View if necessary, select the final word of text, "badda", and activate Edit-->Cut (or Delete).   As before, all the other text is deleted as well. This is repeatable.
It seems to me this sample code satisfies your general principle. Could I be misapplying the three validation tests? Or that passing these tests does not assure the document is syntactically correct and complete?   Can you recommend other tests?
I'd like to add the following two points as a matter of background and a bit of niggling:
--I'm aware that complete HTML pages must contain <html> , <head>, and <body> tags, although the HTML4 specification seems to say <body> tags are optional.   All my production pages, as served, contain these tags.   My underlying design is a php template with individual content files incorporated by inclusion.   There may be only one set of <html> , <head>, and <body> in a page. The "outer" template code provides these tags, and individual content files cannot contain a nested set -- so they must be "bare" markup.   Is DW able to support this design, in which "bare markup" files are seemingly unavoidable?    Is there a mechanism analogous to DW Design-Time Style Sheets to provide virtual existence of these tags so "bare markup" files can be successfully edited? I've looked for such a mechanism but not found one.    Or some completely different method?
--You specify the inclusion of <p> or <h1> tags within the body.    Is there some special significance of <p> or <h1> with respect to stable editing in DW? My reading of the HTML4 spec indicates that a single block element is the minimal requirement for body content. Either of these tags qualify, right?   But so does <div>, and that's what I use in my current example.    Am I misunderstanding something?
Bottom line, I'm looking for a pragmatic solution for my problem:   Once in a while, among hundreds of structurally similar "bare markup" pages I edit in DW without any problem, I lose data.   If inserting an additional tag into all my content include files eliminates these occasional problems, I'm willing to do that, as long as: (1) There is an arguable technical basis for the addition, (2) the added tag does not produce anything visible on the served page, and (3) the validators don't flag the extra tag.
Suggestions, please!
Thanks,
hen3ry

After upgrading to mountain lion, i find that my mail app does not have a "VIP" Tab. Was wondering if anyone else has this issue and what it is about?

after upgrading to mountain lion, i find that my mail app does not have a "VIP" Tab. Was wondering if anyone else has this issue and what it is about?

First, select sender(s) as VIPs. Then the VIP category will appear.
To select a sender as a VIP, open an email from that sender, then hover over their name and a star icon will appear to the left. Click the star, and that sender will be set as a VIP (and the category will appear in the pane on the left).

I purchased a used 2008 iMac. And although the previous owner said he deleted all of his information his iCloud account is still the primary. I don't have a clue about what to do about it. I signed him out and logged in with my info, but still no go.

I purchased a used 2008 iMac. And although the previous owner said he deleted all of his information, his iCloud account is still the primary. I don't have a clue about what to do about it. I signed him out and logged in with my info, but still no go. Is there any way to eliminate his iCloud account and make mine the primary without rebooting it back to factory settings? There was an update, I believe, that I couldn't install because i didn't have his password that is what made me aware that his acct. was still active. I don't know what to do. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

Does anyone know what to do about iCal colors changing.

Does anyone know what to do about iCal colors changing. Ever since ios7 came out I have many problems. I kind of feel like Apple has become Microsoft at twice the price?? Anyway, today all my calendars (iPhone, iPad, iCloud and on my Mac) all changed colors from the customer colors I had set. I have about 5 calendars.
I was able to change them back on my Mac, my iphone and my ipad, but not in iCloud. Once each of the ones I changed updates / syncs it reverts to the incorrect colors again. I have tested back and forth, and it is definetly coming out of the iCloud.com. The web site will not let me chance colors, so once it updates / sync, all my other devices and calendars sync to the purple in iCloud.
I could go on and on about my frustrations with the apparent lack to testing, and the irony around Microsoft and their "bugs". It is more important that I find a cure, as this is really annoying.
Has anyone else seen this today

Don't spend a lot of time trying to change it. It's an iCloud problem that's happened before, and when it happened in August it went back to the correct colors in a few days. Just be careful when you add new items to the calendar to use the right calendar (even if the color is wrong), otherwise you'll have things out of synch when the correct colors come back.

What is new about CRM 7.0 pricing

Hi Folks,
Please help me In knowing what is new about CRM 7.0 Pricing compares to CRM 2007?
Edited by: nnrsdn68 on Oct 27, 2011 12:36 PM
Moderation: Locked. Rule number one: Try to find the answer first. [See rules of engagement|https://wiki.sdn.sap.com/wiki/display/HOME/RulesofEngagement]
Edited by: Joaquin Fornas on Oct 27, 2011 9:07 AM

One thing that is mentioned, but not really emphasized, is that the zooming when opening and closing Apps is now gone when the reduce motion setting is enabled. I guess too many people where claiming sea sickness and Apple wanted to avoid lawsuits.
Now the nay sayers will have to refocus their efforts and complain about the font and the icons.

When I phone people can hear me without any problem, but I hear very very bad. The sounds is metallic and it is very difficult to understand. Have anyone idea of what is it about. I guess is not a software problem but I am not an expert. Thanks in advance

When I phone people can hear me without any problem, but I hear very very bad. The sounds is metallic and it is very difficult to understand. Have anyone idea of what is it about. I guess is not a software problem but I am not an expert. Thanks in advance

Make sure that you allow pages to choose their colors and that you haven't enabled High Contrast in the Accessibility settings.
*Firefox > Preferences > Content : Fonts & Colors > Colors : [X] "Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above"
See also:
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Images_or_animations_do_not_load
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Images+or+animations+do+not+show

The drop down view by menu (Song, album, etc) at the right side of the iTunes window is like a ghost. It flashes into view for a millisecond once in awhile but never lets me click on it. Anyone know what this is about and what to do?

The drop down view by menu (Song, album, etc) at the right side of the iTunes window is like a ghost. It flashes into view for a millisecond once in awhile but never lets me click on it. Anyone know what this is about and what to do?

Short answer:
Click Hide Song(s), it is what you wanted to do...
Long answer:
iTunes in the Cloud is a feature of your iTunes store account that allows you to redownload or stream your past purchases. When you delete a purchased track that is downloaded to your computer (like the first one shown here) you are asked if you also want to hide the song from iCloud. This would remove it from the computer and also stop it showing up with the iCloud symbol as the other tracks from that album (which are not downloaded) do.
If a track shows with the cloud symbol you can play (stream) it by double-clicking the title, or click the cloud symbol to download a local copy to your library. If you try to delete one of these tracks you get a slightly different message confirming that you want to hide the track. Clicking hide will remove the listing from the library and any other device that shows your past purchases.
Should you want to retrieve any item hidden in this way at a later date use Store > View My Account > iTunes in the Cloud > Hidden Purchases > Manage.
To hide all your previous purchases that are not downloaded to your computer use Edit > Preferences > Store and untick Show iTunes in the Cloud purchases.
tt2

What to do about quality????

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