What to do with a defective MacBook Pro?

I bought a new MacBook Pro from John Lewis (Huge UK Retailer) last week, and have just notice a very small; but annoying manufacturing fault.
It's where the black plastic hinge is connected to the aluminium case, across the width of the laptop, there is a small gap. But, towards the edge of mine this gap increases, and has a slight buldge. The plastic should be pushed under the aluminium, but it isn't. I don't think I would even be able to force it back into place, and wouldn't want to damage it anyway.
What should I do? I've heard that some people have been having a bad experience trying to return/exchange items to John Lewis, and think they may try and say that they think I caused the damage. Whereas I think an Apple Genius, would be more likely to see that it is a defect.
Has anone else had this problem with the Late 2013 15" model? What would you recommend?

Please read the warranty paperwork that came w/your computer.
You have 14 days to return the computer w/no questions asked. Plus you have 90 days of FREE phone tech support on top of your standard 1 year warranty unless you also purchased AppleCare which gives you an additional 2 years of coverage plus FREE phone support.
Strongly suggest that you take FULL advantage of the above before it runs out. Let Apple deal w/the problems.
If the store where you purchased the MBP from does not honor Apple's warranty policy, either call AppleCare or take the MBP to your local AS or an AASP.

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What to do with water damaged MacBook Pro?

I've had my MacBook Pro 13" since late last year and since then have spilt soda on it 2 times. The first time it didn't seem to be damaged at all by it but the second time the macbook turned off and I left it for a while before trying to turn it on again. It started up but I needed to use internet recovery to be able to get into it after. I've been using the mac and it works fine but the trackpad will not work, the backlit keyboard is faded in some keys and whenever I turn the macbook off and try turning it on again it flashes a file with a question mark and will only start up properly after a few times of trying. I have recently brought it to the apple store and they said that they won't fix it even if I have warranty because it is water damaged but I can pay $800 to get it fixed although it still may not work after fixing it. I was wondering if I could sell the macbook somewhere and just buy a new mac? but how much would a water damaged mac be worth? does anyone have any solutions?

alicm wrote:
I've had my MacBook Pro 13" since late last year and since then have spilt soda on it 2 times...
Until you plan on keeping it completely away from all liquids, I'd suggest simply continuing to use it for as long as it lasts.
Once you commit to protecting a new one, consider yourself lucky that it works at all and make a complete backup of what's on your internal drive while you still can so you can transfer that to whatever the replacement is (using Setup Assistant). And for not much more than what you'd pay to get it fixed, you could get a refurbished MBP from Apple which would have a warranty.
alicm wrote:
...I can pay $800 to get it fixed although it still may not work after fixing it. I was wondering if I could sell the macbook somewhere and just buy a new mac? but how much would a water damaged mac be worth? does anyone have any solutions?
As Klaus1 says, a dead Mac isn't worth anything. But if you did get it fixed with the understanding that it might not work at all or for very long, how would you feel if someone else sold that to you.

What's wrong with my 2008 MacBook pro? It won't boot up, but I can hear it running!

i can't get my computer to turn on. I can hear a sound when I press the power button but nothing on the screen. The sound is not the boot up sound. I can also hear a fan running.

What is the sound?
Is it a sequence of beeps?
How about when you shine torch (Flashlight) on or behind the screen, can you see anything? Sometimes the backlight fails, but the computer is still running.

What is max internal hard drive transfer rate compatible with a 2007 MacBook Pro?

In attempt to upgrade my mid-2007 MacBook Pro (Intel Core 2 Duo), I bought a Seagate 750GB listed as compatible with my computer on MacSales.com . . .
Seagate Momentus XT ST750LX003 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache 2.5" SATA 6.0Gb/s Solid State Hybrid Drive -Bare Drive
Installation appeared to go well and I ran an extended hardware test with no issues found. However, the drive is listed at 5.46 TB (would be nice) and I get an input/output error when attempting to partition. I can initiate an erase, but after the time I would suspect it would take to erase the drive, I get an input/output error - it seems to appear after the first 750 GB of the '5.5 TB' was erased. At all times, the drive is not recognized when I attempt to install OS X from original discs.
I suspect the 6.0 GB/s transfer capacity of the hard drive is not compatible with the MacBook Pro. The drive came with 4 jumper pins but no jumper and no label diagram to set a slower transfer rate. I called Seagate, Newegg, OWC, and Apple, but no one has compatibility info for my MacBook Pro. To them, it appears I am running the first tests of this new technology with an 'older' MacBook Pro.
My MBP has had no issues - I'd like to keep her going with the optimum internal hard drive capacity, but don't necessarily want to set up a test bench in my house (though my kids would enjoy destroying it) and pay several shipping and restocking fees to test new hard drives.
The original drive had a 1.5 GB/s transfer rate. Does anyone know the maximum transfer rate compatible with a 2007 MacBook Pro? 3.0 GB/s? 1.5 GB/s? Thank you.

No spinning hard drive will transfer data faster then 60-80MB a second. The XT models have a flash storage area that is used when reading and writing data that can make it Appear faster in some situations. That flash memory if only 8 or 16GBs in side, I forget which one.
The drie is rated to work on 6GB SATA bus but it certainly can not transfer data that fast. It should be backword compatible to work on slower buses.
Your drive is 750GBs in size. Not wure where you are getting this 5.5TB (that is 5.5 Tera Bytes which is 5500 Giga Bytes. Your drive is under 1TB)
What are you using to partition the drive? Disk Utilities from the original install DVD?
You need to install on your old drive, Update it from the Apple Website then clone it to the new drive. The version of OSX you are using may not function correctly with that large of a drive. Or get yourself a copy of Snow Leopard, retail disk for $29 from Apple, and do all the partitioning and installing with that version od OSX.

What's the price for a MacBook Pro Retina Display Top Case with battery in the US?

I'd like to know what´s the price for a MacBook Pro Retina Display Top Case with battery in the US.

Here you go.

New problem with display on Macbook Pro retina (Samsung panel)

Hello All,
I am a very new people on your forum but a few weeks ago i bought a new macbook pro retina with samsung panel.
I haven't ghosting effect on my macbook but i have a new and really bad problem.
I try to found a some information on Russians forums but nobody can help me with it.
I can see an artifacts in the form of flashing pixels on all display.
It occurs in 20-30 minutes after the start of work.
Today i try to test it on game Dirt 2 and i can see defects after 2 minutes after start. So i think it can be reason with Geforce 650 but when i back to desktop and use HD 4000 i still see a problem.
This is best seen on a black screen with high backlight.
When i try to connect TV via HDMI i can't see any problem in my TV.
So i really don't know what could be the reason.
I attached the video with issue to video hosting
http://vimple.ru/579f880e8b7045e09f8fc5bc097c5e2b
Also i have a many software problem like Crashing safari and iTunes. It can be a few times per day.
I really disappointed with my new Macbook.
I haven't any problem with old 2009 Macbook pro with Snow Leopard but Mountain Lion is not working well.

Option 1
Back Up and try rebuild the library: hold down the command and option (or alt) keys while launching iPhoto. Use the resulting dialogue to rebuild. Choose to Rebuild iPhoto Library Database from automatic backup.
If that fails:
Option 2
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. This will create a new library based on data in the albumdata.xml file. Not everything will be brought over - no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your albums and keywords back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one. .
Regards
TD

Any Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter with audio for macbook pro mid 2009

connecting MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2009) to Hisense TV with audio?!?!!?
hello everyone.
if anyone is familar with successfully getting the older macbook pros that dont support audio out to stream and preform digital audio on a TV or has any helpful information that will get me familiar with trying to successfully stream audio and visual. and can PLEASE HELP ME in any way to understand what they know and teach me how to solve my problem id really appreciate it.
i want to connect my MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2009) to my Hisense LED LCD TV, ModelNumber:40H3E and getting digital audio sound from my TV as well as video, but have no clue on how or where to even start to successfully pairing the two and getting sound.
I own a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2009) this MacBook model doesnt support an HDMI port. My MacBooks model has the Mini Displayport which supports video out but does not support audio out. Can someone help me by telling me exactly which Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter with audio will support my model MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2009) and exactly what HDMI wire do i need to buy that will successfully preform digital audio and sadisfying quality visual through TV?
i have NO expierence with the proccess have NO knowledge about any of this or these Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapters with audio. i have no idea what kind of adapter and HDMI cord to buy that will give me sound from my tv for my type of macbook. '
im not familar AT ALL with any of this so i hope me giving you my MacBook Pros make and model and my TV's model number will be enough information for someone to help me.
just please give me anything you can on this topic
thank you so much,

With a 2009 MacBook Pro, you need to use two connections to your TV: one for video and another one for audio. The miniDisplayPort on the 2009 models does not support audio, so you need a separate audio cable:
miniDisplayPort adapter for video - I use the Apple miniDisplayport-DVI adapter + a DVI-HDMI cable like this one
audio cable for audio - use a 3.5mm male stereo-to-2xRCA male cable like this one
Connect the miniDisplayport adapter + DVI/HDMI cable to your MacBook Pro's miniDisplayPort output and the HDMI input on your TV
Connect the audio cable to your MacBook Pro's audio out and your TV's audio in
The only potential gotcha is if your Hisense TV requires audio via the HDMI cable when you use an HDMI cable. The H3e user manual is unclear about this.

Trouble with a new MacBook Pro - times 3 now..

Hi all,
Trouble Trouble Trouble - my frustrations with Apple:
1) MacBook Pro -bought 19th nov 2009- Death On Arrival, 4HDD/11/40000004:SATA(0,0)
Been sent back to Apple and I got a new one.
New MacBook Pro -got it on the 25th nov 2009- Started to have random Kernel Panic's 2nd of November:
2) Kernel Panic's everywhere.. even on the Mac Bootdisc with Disk Utility.. as random as they appeared, so random they went away. Just to be sure on the Apple helpdesk they advised me to cleaned disk and reinstalled everything. Lucky I made a back-up when it was still working.... otherwise I'd have lost everything.
3) Worked well for 2 or 3 days and now -6th dec 09- all the sudden it doesn't want to start anymore. Giving me 9 beeps at start-up on a black screen in the morse code s.o.s. 3x short, 3x long, 3x short)
Apple?
I'm sure when I call Apple tomorrow I'll have to bring away my notebook to an Apple Service Provider cause they can't help me on the phone. If so, I will have to wait for another 20 days(experience in the past with my bro's MacBook for a new harddisk(!)).
I used to be a PC-guy and took the brave step to be a full-time Apple-guy, but this is just frustrating me. Sold my old laptop and now I'm without one for ages.
What would my options be? Could I get a complete new notebook?
Niek

Giving me 9 beeps at start-up on a black screen in the morse code s.o.s. 3x short, 3x long, 3x short)
Sounds like bad RAM:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2341?viewlocale=en_US
Or bad power.
Have you attempted to change the power supply or power source? If it isn't plugged into a surge protector, you may have issues with your house power that create problems for multiple computers.
Also, be sure you aren't damaging the power cable unintentially*:
http://www.macmaps.com/frayguide.html
This is a user to user board.
Call Apple directly at:
(31) 0900 7777 703
And let them know your repeated issues. They could give you a replacement machine, but also ask for a replacement power brick to at least test the theory the power brick may be damaged.
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.

How can I sync my iPhone 4 with a new MacBook Pro without losing all my data and settings?

I used to sync my iPhone 4 with a PC running Windows XP until the hard drive died. Thankfully, I already had a backup of all my iTunes media (Songs, TV Shows, Movies, Podcasts, Apps, etc), so when I bought a new MacBook Pro, transferring my iTunes library was easy.
My problem now is that I want to sync my iPhone 4 with my new MacBook Pro without losing all the data and settings. I have already used iTunes to back it up and transfered my purchases onto the mac. I just need help to sync the iPhone with the Mac without losing app data, emails, contacts, settings.
Everytime I click on the tabs (to sync contacts, apps, music, et al), I get an error message that reads:
"Are you sure you want to sync apps? All existing apps and their data on the iPhone “Ryan's iPhone” will be replaced with apps from this iTunes library."
What do I do? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryan

Read through this helpful document on this subject: https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141

Can I connect and use a Dell projection unit..several years old...with my new Macbook Pro? do i just need an adaptor for the multi-pin plug?

I would like to use my old Dell projection unit with my new Macbook Pro laptop, but obviously there is no such plug in the Macbook. Is there an adaptor I can connect and make it work? Without the old "F" keys, how do I get the Macbook to provide output to the projection unit? I don't see an icon on a button anywhere?
Thanks for any help... trying to become a good Apple user.
MarkT

You have to determine what connection options are available on the projector. You probably will need a Mini-displayport (Thunderbolt) adapter. that can accommodate the projector.
Ciao.

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Can I use my 24" I-Mac with my 17" macbook Pro?

I want to know if I can use the I-Mac 24" display with my 17" macbook pro.

Wow that was quick thank you so much... That is exactly what I wanted... No wires or nothing... Onlly thing is that second display is a lot slower.. don't thiink I can play games on second screen. i am doing something wrong?

What can I do? my macbook pro rejcets to eject any cds or dvds I put on !!!

what can I do? my macbook pro rejcets to eject any cds or dvds I put on !!!

The drive accepts discs but they do not mount or are automatically ejected
Check the disc's surface for scratches and dirt, since these things can prevent the disc from appearing on the desktop.
Reset the Power Manager (PMU) or System Management Controller (SMC).
Ensure your drive can read the specific type of disc being used. For example a "combo drive" can read a DVD-R and burn a CD-R however it cannot burn a DVD-R. The utility System Profiler may provide additional information regarding what media your computer supports.
If the discs continue to not be recognized, please contact Apple, contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider, or make an appointment with an Apple Retail Store for additional troubleshooting, evaluation, or service.
source: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2801

Why are none of my midi controllers not working with my new MacBook Pro?

I am running OS X 10.7.3
None of my M-Audio midi controllers are syncing with my new MacBook Pro.
They are all class-compliant and willl work on Mac OS X without the need of a driver is what M--Audio has posted on there website for all of my controllers.
I am using the following midi controllers:
Keystation 49e
Axiom 25
Trigger Finger
I purchased my new laptop all most 2 months ago and have not been able to start making music on it since. Lots of issues transitioning to Lion. I am still using my old macbook to make music. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

I had the same problem with my apps and your solution worked perfectly! You made my day (:

Why won't my apple tv sync with my new macbook pro, they are both on the same wifi signal

why won't my apple tv sync with my new macbook pro, they are both on the same wifi signal.

Not sure of what? In your second response you said the issue was with airplay. You were also having issues connecting laptop to computer, which points to a laptop connectivity issue. I simply asked if home sharing was an issue as well, since that will confirm the laptop as the cause. Your response that home sharing is on doesn't really help since that doesn't itself have a bearing on airplay nor does it answer the question in regards to if home sharing is working on Apple TV
If you have a further question you will need to be specific.

What to do with a defective MacBook Pro?

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