What to do with unused credit?

EXACTLY!!! The effect lessens with the MORE you have. If you close cards, the less you have in the future to nullify the closing effect. Thank you for pointing that out. So if the effect LESSENS with the MORE cards you have, then it makes sense to NOT CLOSE them.

johnnyconsumer wrote:
I have never really understood the "close it" mentality. When all these accounts that get closed fall off your credit report in 10 years, you will have a major dip in your average age of accounts. Sure it may not seem like a big deal now, but when your AAoA goes from say 10-20 years to say 5 years, you will probably kick yourself for closing "unneeded" accounts.You don't understand in part because a person's open and closed accounts would have also aged in that time.  It's a call that each needs to make and it is not a one-size-fits-all matter.  If you prefer to keep everything open then definitely do so but don't assume that it's the best approach for everyone.  AAoA isn't the only consideration anyway and it's generally 15%.  If one cannot or will not actively montior all accounts then fraud is a potential concern.  The number of accounts that one can manage will vary from person to person.  I have no problems managing my 13 card but there are certainly those that prefer only having a few accounts. I've never kept accounts open that are of no use to me and AAoA has never been an issue.  My FICO's tend to be right around 800.  I could possibly eke out more points with a higher AAoA but it's really not worth it to me as I'm already well above the 740-760 mark.  Each has to do what works for the individual. johnnyconsumer wrote:
EXACTLY!!! The effect lessens with the MORE you have. If you close cards, the less you have in the future to nullify the closing effect. Thank you for pointing that out. So if the effect LESSENS with the MORE cards you have, then it makes sense to NOT CLOSE them.
It's an average.  Both the number of accounts and the ages of the accounts matter.  A strong AAoA can be built with a few well aged accounts.   Again, don't assume that these are one-size-fits-all matters.  If X works for you, that's great.  The next may use a different approach. johnnyconsumer wrote:
If i had 3 30 year old cards and two new cards and decided to get rid of the old ones I dont use, then in 10 years from now I would go to a 10 year AAoA, instead of 28 year AAoA.We create all sorts of scenarios where AAoA is drastically impacted and where AAoA is minimally impacted -- and many points in between.  One should keep AAoA in mind but, again, it's just one factor among many and one needs to keep one's entire credit profile in mind.  Any set of decisions is a matter of making improvements in one area and compromising others.  Each needs to to decide where the individual is willing to make such changes.  One simply cannot assume that the proper course of action is to always maximize AAoA regardless of other considerations.

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    The unexplanable results I'm seeing are below:
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    3)  If I connect counter 3 to ground and have counters 0,1, and 2 connected to the encoder, I get the same result - bad.
    4)  If I connect EVERY counter input (2,3,4,5,6) to ground and only monitor counters 0 and 1, I still get bad results.
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    Please any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks for the response.  This one has really got me confused and any help is greatly appreciated.
    To answer your questions, no I have not modified the sample program and I'm using NI DAQ v8.5.
    I've decided to break the problem down to see if I could find a pattern, but no such luck.  Here is the testing that I've done.
    I'm making the following connections while using the sample program I mentioned earlier:
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    Counter 1...............PFI_35 (term 07) - Channel_A(1).................PFI_33 (term 06) - Channel_B(1)
    Counter 2...............PFI_31 (term 34) - Channel_A(2).................PFI_29 (term 66) - Channel_B(2)
    Counter 3...............PFI_27 (term 31) - Channel_A(3).................PFI_25 (term 63) - Channel_B(3)
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    My testing results:
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    3.  If I only connect channels 0 & 1, then channel 0 counts perfectly in both the pos and neg direction, but channel 1 looses counts in the negative direction.
    4.  If I connect any channel by itself (0,1,2 or 3), each one counts perfectly.
    5.  If I connect channels 0 & 4, everything seems to be fine.
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    As of now, I'm going to proceed with my application, using channels 0 &4 (just as I've done in the past), however I don't feel comfortable not having an explanation for the 6602's behavior.  Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

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    Hi...
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  • What would you do with this credit profile? I need your expertise.

    Hello MyFico Community,
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    Re: What would you do with this credit profile? I need your expertise. 
    Options06-15-2015 05:49 AM - edited 06-15-2015 06:03 AM
    What I'd do doesn't really matter.  These are not one-size-fits-all matters so each needs to determine his/her own strategy and tactics based on the individual's situation, goals, priorities, preferences, etc.  IMO you don't know what to do because you're not clear on these matters.  Very True, I am not clear but with the help of the community giving me things to consider I am getting there.
    You need to define what you needs/want and then prioritize that list.  That will give you a list of critiera that you then use to select cards that suit you. Thanks. Good way to focus my thinking about it.
    Rewards is a common criteria and if rewards matter to you then you need to look at your spend and where your money is going to select rewards with the most benefit to you. Since i’m going to be using a main CC, I’d rather have cash rewards first or rewards that are versatile for gift cards. I already have a travel card that works well for me so thats not that important.
    RandomSpirit wrote:
    AAof Credit:  Not sure about this Experian/Credit.com- 6.7 years. Credit Sesame says 1.8 months?  Thanks. Was wondering where they figured this. AAoA is just an average like any other average.  Add up the ages of the accounts and divide by the number of accounts.  Many find it easier to convert into months, calculate and then convert back into years.  You can use Excel and its date formulas if you don't want to do this manually.  There are also online AAoA calculators.  Experian is more likely to be correct.  CS is probably providing AAoOA.
     RandomSpirit wrote:
    Was also thinking i’d put everything I can on cards and PIF each month to take advantage of the 0% and rewards. Is this a good plan? You're really not leveraging a 0% offer if you're PIF'ing each month.  However, if you're not PIF'ing each month on cards without 0% offers then you're killing rewards.Okay this is confusing, would you mind clarifying? The Amex and QS have 0% interest for well into next year (not sure of exact date, I will look up again) so it would seem that it would not matter if i carry balance or pay in full until the real APR begins next year.
    So whats the best way to utilize these as my main cards to get as much cash back(QS) and MR point as possible. Carry balance or pif, or does it not matter in this case for now?
     RandomSpirit wrote:
    Are there other cards I should look at acquiring?  As with all other request you need to tell us what you need/want so we have something to use to narrow down the options for you.
    Now, I am leaning towards low interest being the most important to me, secondly would be cash back.
    RandomSpirit wrote:
    Was thinking about BoA Cash Rewards offer for 12.99 because of the lower interest rateHere's an example of why a prioritized list of criteria matters.  If the lowest possible interest is a priority above all else then you shouldn't be looking at rewards cards as they typically come with higher interest rates.  If you want the lowest possible APR you need to fins a barebones card.  They're offered with rates as low as 6.x% depending on what you qualify for. This is most important to me
    That said, rewards and a low APR aren't mutually exclusive but typically rewards cards will come with a higher APR as you aren't getting something for nothing.  While I do try to get my APR's as low as possible you might want to consider why APR is a concern if you're paying in full. In case I ever have to carry a real balance.Not telling you what to do here but consdier such things when prioritizing your list.  For example: is a lower APR more important than the biggest rewards for your spend?
     RandomSpirit wrote:
    Citi Dble Cash and, perhaps
    Chase Freedom for sign-up bonus?
    Honestly, I was thinking  to have a more diversified portfolio. I don;t have any Chase or City cards.So far we have:
    • 1 Low APR
    • 2-High rewards rate on non-category spend (Double Cash)
    • 4-Sign up bonus
    • 3-Diversity
    Which is most important?  Which is least?  Where do the rest fall?  We can't tell you this.  You need to tell us.
    Again, I'd recommend looking at your spend and ensuring that your card lineup maxmizes rewards on your spend.  The Double Cash is a good option for non category spend but if you haven't found higher rewards for a major spend category that you have then you might want to look into finding something for that category. Thanks for taking the time to offer your suggestions Tekeshi74. If gives me a lot consider.

  • Im playin a game on my ipod called ck zombies i tryed to buy more credits for the game with my credit card and they said to go to itunes support to fix the problem what do i do?

    im playing a game on my ipod touch called ck zombies and i was trying to buy some credit to play the game and they said i needed to go to itunes support to fix the problem where do i go to fix the purchases?

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  • What's Wrong with My Computer?

    I have a G5 desktop computer, I believe it's referred to as a "Power Mac." My mom purchased it some years ago, I think in late 2005 shortly after this particular model was on the market.
    Info is:
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    Processor 4 x 2.5 GHz PowerPC G5
    Memory 4.5 GB DDR2 SDRAM
    Hard Drive 240 GB (127 GB unused/available)
    My mother wasn't using this computer for many years, and my 13" Macbook was giving me trouble, so she gave this one to me. It's all been great (she maxed out the memory and hard drive space when she bought it, even though it is outdated and insignificant compared to current models), except for one little thing... Browsing the internet is usually fine when it's only one window, but not always. However, it is almost a guarantee that while trying to operate multiple windows and trying to play a video, Safari will crash. And not just once in awhile. I'm talking about on a daily basis. During regular offline computer use, like Photoshop or iTunes, the computer will sometimes grey over (as if someone put a fairly thick grey film over the entire screen), and tell me I have to restart the computer. So what's wrong with it? I presume it is a physical issue (failing memory, mother board, etc.), but what?

    Your computer is not remotely "maxed out" with RAM.
    You're describing a G5 Quad like mine (though mine was built in June of 2006), and maxed out means having 16 GB of RAM installed, like mine has.
    The Frolick wrote:
    …the computer will sometimes grey over (as if someone put a fairly thick grey film over the entire screen), and tell me I have to restart the computer. So what's wrong with it?…
    That's called a Kernel Panic, and, yes, it is most often caused by hardware problems, such as bad RAM or mismatched RAM.  I can't imagine how you get to 4.5 GB of RAM without exponentially increasing the risk of mismatched RAM.
    RAM has to be installed in matched pairs, starting from the center slots and spreading outward: 4*3*2*1*1*2*3*4
    On the other hand, my own personal experience has led me to conclude that Safari is a piece of cr@p.  It causes problems just being active in the background, causing other applications to fail.
    Check your RAM carefully, starting with just one pair of matched RAM sticks in the two center slots, then adding one pair at a time.  Check your hard disk with Apple's Disk Utility.
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    I'd also recommend downloading and installing Applejack and run it according to the instructions.
    Good luck.
    2.5 GHz Power Mac (PPC) G5-Quad; 16GB RAM; mutant, flashed 550MHz nVidia GeForce 7800GTX 1,700MHz 512MB VRAM; ATTO ExpressPCI UL5D LP SCSI card; Mac OS X Tiger 10.4.11 and Leopard 10.5.8 boot drives; Spotblight, Dashboard and Time Machine permanently disabled; dual 22" CRT monitors; USB wireless 'n' available but connected to the Internet via wired Ethernet; FW flatbed scanner; 2 SCSI scanners (one tabloid-size transparency scanner and a film scanner); various internal & external HDs; FW Epson 2200 and Ethernet Samsung ML-2850ND printers; 2 X Back-UPS RS 1500 XS units.

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