What wireless speeds should I get on my iphone4

I just got 100mb broadband and I'm only getting 20mb on my iPhone4 is that as good as it gets?

What speeds to you get on compters on the same network?
Would you honestly notice a difference between 20mb and 100mb connection? Very unlikely.

Similar Messages

What speed should I get on my N network?

I've got a MacBook Air on my wireless network. I have a Time Capsule then two Airport base stations extended off of this. I'm wondering what speed should I get in transfer theoretically. I feel my WIFI network performs horribly.
I have a 150 meg per sec download internet connection or better and on my hardwired iMac it flies. On the WIFI part though it's dreadful. The MacBook Air may run at 20 to 30 meg per sec and the iPad and iPhone much worse.
I've talked to Apple extensively only to find myself with a third base station in a small condo of 1100 sq ft. I'm finding this very frustrating as they've had me test this thing this way to Friday and it's driving me crazy.

Hi Shawn,
Thanks. This i very useful information. It is extended WIFI with two Airport Base stations providing the extension one specifically designed for air tune. There are probably about 8 to 9 devices on the network.
My speeds on the iMac wired Ethernet can hit about 250 mbs download from my ISP. My WIFI though sounds like its in your range as extended the MacBook Air is doing about 22 to 35 mbs, the iPad is the most pathetic at about 5mbs down and relatively the same up and the iphone actually maybe a bit better at twice that performance. Would that make sense.
It's interesting what you say about mulitple hops. I only added in that third base station as Apple wanted me to try an alternate Airport Express to see if that was the issue and it wasn't. I was just too disinclined to return the third one so I added it to the network so both AE's are running in extended mode. When I had joined with only two base stations, oddly enough the MacBook Air would scream but the iPad and iPhone worked in reverse and crawled. So Apple told me they should be extended. I just added the third in as extended.
Anwyay Shawn, potentially I might be running as expected which is odd in that I have never heard this from Apple. It's just all this trouble shooting to accomplish nothing.
Finally, other than the iMac, which I do work at 80% of the time, I wonder if having such a high performance internet service makes sense. I'm curious what your thoughts are on that. The service I have is:
     - Rogers Ultimate which does include a modem with WIFI
          - 150 mbs down 10 mbs up
          - unlimited bandwidth
Thanks Shawn
Kerry

What line speed should I have (about)

I understand there are many things that can change line speed. (Noise on line, Distance from exchange, line quality, internal wiring ect....)
What sort of speeds 'should' i get with these router stats? My guess is around 3 to 4 Mbps
Connection information
Downstream
1,408 Kbps
Upstream
448 Kbps
ADSL settings
Latency type
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up)
6.4 dB / 21.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up)
49.0 dB / 27.0 dB
Output power (Down/Up)
15.8 dBm / 11.9 dBm
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Nope. I have an old circular (with a weird finger tighten screw in the middle) box outside my house where 2 lines connect to from different parts of the house (Was done by the telephone company back in the 70's I think and The 2nd we don't use) and from there it goes into the attic and then down into the hallway into our main NTE5. I have no connection issues and sync at 8128kbps.
That wouldn't explain your connection slowdown though because I believe if it's the box which is causing the problem then it will simply higher your attenuation as well as lowering your speed.
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What volt charger should I get for my MacBook? It is a DC to AC inverter?

Hi, I recently purchased a inverter charger that has an outlet to charge a computer and can be used as a typical USB charger for a phone. The charger says that it has a continuous charge of 120V but a maximum of 150V. I don't understand what the problem is though because on the MacBook charger it says that it's intake is 100-240V and all of the other outputs and inputs match the specifications for the charging device. A normal phone charger that you can plug into the wall worked in this charger, so is it the computer or the charger? And also if it is the computer, what voltage amount should I get? Thank you very much!

Your Macbook charger will specify the number of watts it uses (very fine print somewhere on the charger brick). Your inverter MUST be able provide at least that much power, or I'm guessing your Macbook charger would have problems.

What speed should I get?

Not being "up to speed" with this ADSL "black art", can any knowledgeable person advise me as to what speed I should be getting based on these stats, please? Is it about right or should be more? ADSL line status
<script type="text/javascript"></script>Connection information<script type="text/javascript"></script>
Line state
Connected
Connection time
0 days, 0:06:33
Downstream
1,856 Kbps
Upstream
448 Kbps
ADSL settings<script type="text/javascript"></script>
VPI/VCI
0/38
Type
PPPoA
Modulation
ITU-T G.992.1
Latency type
Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up)
6.0 dB / 12.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up)
63.5 dB / 31.5 dB
Output power (Down/Up)
16.6 dBm / 11.9 dBm
Many thanks,
Oscar
Solved!
Go to Solution.

welcome to the forum
you can check here
http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl/max_speed_calc.php
however many router show a max attenuation of 63.5 even though the correct figure is higher than that so using the kitz website is only an estimate. The further away from the exchange the lower your speed
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What Hardware/Software Should I Get?

So i am new to the mac world. I have always used windows for dell but i am sick of it and i want to switch to a macbook. I haven't purchased it yet but i plan on a macbook pro 15" with 2.66 processor and 320 GB @ 7200 rpm. I am also purchasing a neoprene sleeve with handles, the apple remote, the protection plan, a $99 printer and final cut express b/c i am in college and one of my majors has to do with video editing. i am new to this stuff and i really do not know what i am going to want/need. should i get a rechargeable battery now or should i wait? is it worth it? any other software i should buy or might need for college? I am taking up creative writing/cinema and screen studies/theatre. any other hardware i should get? i already have an external 500 GB drive. any cables i might need? or anything else? i really do not even know what to consider. if someone could help me out that would be great.

cdsport13 wrote:
is Voltaic free? and is there a program out there that makes my video look...smoother? Cuz you know how when you film with a regular camera the film looks kinda fuzzy and grainy a little? Well I know there is a tool to fix the shaking on imovie n such, but is there a way to make my film look clear instead of grainy? Does anybody know what im talking about? Like...you can tell when someone filmed from a professional camera versus their moms camera to tape their sons hockey games, you now? it has that grainy, fuzzy quality to it.
the app is $35.
For graininess, this problem has existed since the invention of film & has translated well - to much dismay - to digital capute devices like DSLRs & CCD / CMOS based camcorders.
Grain is grain, period. There isn't a magic fix. There are some filters in some apps - like Final Cut - to midigate some of it, but not totally & is going to make the footage look wierd in cases.
It's best to get it right in the camera, as they say.

What security software should I get

I just got my iMac, Comming from the PC world, I was wonding what type of anti-virus and security software should I get for MAC? What recommendations does anyone have for the brand?

No antivirius needed but I would recommend a browser add-in to block JavaScript, Java, Flash and other plugins.
On Firefox or Chrome, NoScript is an excellent choice. Someone else might have a recommendation for Safari.
Regards,
Captfred

Slow Speeds/Should be getting a better synch rate?

Hello,
I have been using BT for my broadband service now for many years, and is becoming clear to me that I should be receiving a much improved speed than I am currently getting.
Using multiple speed checkers and my own knowledge, I have realised that I am only receiving a small 5.3mb/s, compared to when my line attenuation shows that I can easily be receiving 8mb/s. I understand that with my exchange shows it can only receive 4.9, but a friend of mine is receiving 9mb/s on the same exchange only around 1000 metres away? I cannot understand how.
Also for some reason my sons online game play when playing on the xbox is VERY disrupted due to lag, he will experience major lag spikes at random intervals for no reason, it has gotten to the point that this happens all the time, not just at peak times.
My apologies if it seems like I'm on a rant, but I'm fed up with the complaints from my son and my internet being so slow even for all that I use it for, which is minimal. We are on the up to 20mb/s package, so we should EASILY receive more than we are.
Thank you,
Angie Wright.

Line state - Connected
Connection time - 0 days, 15:53:58
Downstream - 6,016 Kbps
Upstream - 448 Kbps
VPI/VCI - 0/38
Type - PPPoA
Modulation - ITU-T G.992.1
Latency type - Interleaved
Noise margin (Down/Up) - 6.3 dB / 23.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up) - 41.0 dB / 27.0 dB
Output power (Down/Up) - 19.6 dBm / 11.8 dBm
Speedtest from BT:
The Performance Tester is now testing Broadband connection. Your configured download throughput speed for this service is 4500 k
Please do not move away from this page and do not start any other download activity on your computer.
The Performance Tester is now testing Broadband connection. Your configured download throughput speed for this service is 4500 k
Please do not move away from this page and do not start any other download activity on your computer.
Now I can understand that this shows I am getting more than I should, but my attenuation shows that I should be getting a much better sync rate.

What Super Drive should I get for ILife 06?

Hi, I have a G5 2.5 Power Mac 7.3. I bought ILife 06 and am trying to edit DVD's I copied from tape to make another DVD. iDVD says my Mac does not have a supported superdrive. What should I get to update this new to me computer? Everything says this is sooo easy. I am not finding it easy in the least. Thought this new computer would cover all the bases. How do you plug in video to this computer? I miss my old G3 that finally died by my hand trying to upgrade it....
Sniff..... Janice
PowerPC G5 (3.0), CPU 2.5 GHz, PowerMac 7,3, NVIDIA GeForce 6800 DDL, Tower Mac OS X (10.4.7) 1 GB memory, boot ROM version 5.1.8f7, Two Sony DVD RW DW=U21A (REV. AADB), Firmware AADB

Hi, I have a G5 2.5 Power Mac 7.3. I bought ILife 06
and am trying to edit DVD's I copied from tape to
make another DVD.
Copying home-made DVDs is easy (Disk Utility) but editing is more difficult.
iDVD says my Mac does not have a
supported superdrive.
Your drive shows as supported, so it may be some iDVD problem. Does the drive burn with other applications. e.g. Disk Utility, iTunes, or Finder.
How do you plug in video to this computer?
You need a video input device. It could be a PCI card (depending on your computers bus), a FireWire device, or an USB device. If you have a digital camcorder it can be used to input video via FireWire. If you have to buy something, look here: <http://www.elgato.com>

What case/sleeve should I get for my macbook air 11"?

I just got a macbook air 11" for Christmas, and don't know what kind of case to get. I carry it around in my backpack everyday for school, so I need a solid case. A lot of my friends have the hard case and a neoprene case/sleeve. I used a neoprene case/sleeve for my macbook (white) but I've noticed that this unibody design makes the computer a lot more prone to denting easily. Any ideas on what cases to get?

Your Macbook charger will specify the number of watts it uses (very fine print somewhere on the charger brick). Your inverter MUST be able provide at least that much power, or I'm guessing your Macbook charger would have problems.

Backwards Question: Purchasing PE7 is a given, but what camera/format should I get?

I've enjoyed PE3 for the past couple of years and it is matted quite well with my little Panasonic GS-320 MiniDV. I'm realatively new to camcorders and I really lucked out finding how great the PE series really is. Therefore, I consider myself pretty loyal to the Adobe line and especially this forum (special thanks to Steve and Paul for awesome advice and comments over the years --you have no idea how much time and frustration you both have saved me).
Anyway. I'm strongly considering entering the high-definition realm and I really want to upgrade to PE7. The only catch is that I will have to make due with my current hardware setup, which is as follows:
Intel Core 2 Quad QX6600 @ 2.4GHz and 2Gigs RAM. I also have SATAII drives and an nVIDIA 7900 (yeah the vid card is kinda old).
I could upgrade to 4Gigs RAM, but would VISTA 32 recognize it?
So Question 1 is: Could/should I get 4Gigs of RAM?
I'm struggling between the two HD formats: HDV and AVCHD. So I hear HDV is probably the easiest to edit (I do a LOT of editing; lots of scenes and transitions) and less taxing on the computer. I like the idea of HDV, but I'm a bit weary of the real time capture and time limitations per tape.
Therefore, Question 2 is: Should I go the route of HDV or get an AVCHD camcorder that can record more material without the need of switching tapes? HDV seems the more seemless route, but I'm equally concerned about quality. Would the footage be better if I get the full HD resolution in AVCHD at 1920x1080 and downgrade it to 1440x1080, or just work front to end with HDV at 1440x1080?
I will be using the camcorder mainly for general use, with some interviews here and there, some fast paced action scenes as well. I really like vivid colors (I love the 3CCD concept, but most cameras in the $1,000 range dont have 3CCDs anymore, I'm finding) It seems everyone is going to CMOS or 3MOS these days, which I know little about. Ultimately, I really would like vivid colors and smooth video.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice!
-Jon

In my opinion, if you want to edit with Premiere Elements, you want to get an HDV, tape-based camcorder. Most any will work, although the Canon HV20 and HV40 are very popular and produce excellent results. (The HV30 has some problems.)
You definitely have more than enough power, even with 2 gigs of RAM, to do this. But, with Vista 32-bit, you can use as much as 4. With a quad-core processor, that's up to you. You'll know after you test drive.
The challenge with Premiere Elements is that it edits AVCHD natively -- as opposed to, say, Apple's Final Cut, which uses a proxy (sort of a lower resolution preview clip) for editing, then uses your native files for final output. This means AVCHD in Premiere Elements puts a tremendous strain on present technology.
With your rig, you can probably still handle it. But, in my opinion, you're better with having power to spare than working at the edge of your computer's capacity.
Does that help?

What virus protector should I get for macbook

what virus protection can I get for a macbook 10.6.8?

You may find this User Tip on Viruses, Trojan Detection and Removal, as well as general Internet Security and Privacy, useful: The User Tip seeks to offer guidance on the main security threats and how to avoid them.
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-2435
More useful information can also be found here:
www.thesafemac.com/mmg
This article from MacWorld is also useful:
http://www.macworld.co.uk/how-to/mac-software/are-macs-safe-viruses-hackers-3454 926/
but most of us would take serious issue with the advisability of using iAntivirus or Bitdefender, both of which, alongside Norton Antivirus, have given many users serious problems.

What wireless router should I buy?

Since I am having trouble with my old router trying to hook up to my cable modem (see my other post), I will need to get a new one.
I need to be able to connect 2 desktops with wires and 2 laptops wirelessly in the house. Any suggestions?
-- Mike

You will need to tell us a little more info:
1) what type of wireless adapters do you currently have in your laptops? wireless b, g, or n?
2) how will the wireless computers be used? mainly web surfing? gaming? frequently transfering large files, such as video files?
3) How big is house? how many floors? where will wireless router be located ? (ideally, if only one router is used, it would be centrally located on a middle or upper floor).
4) What internet connection speed do you have now (or plan to get in the near future)?
5) if you do not already have wireless n adapters in your computers, does your budget allow upgrading to wireless n adapters anytime soon?
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 09-26-2008 02:29 AM

What wireless NIC should I Deploy?!?

I know this is going to be somewhat biased, but I have the unique opportunity to choose a wireless NIC for our company.
It's like this... We have been rolling out many different types of laptops from Dell over the last couple of years and each one has a different built in wireless NIC. We have not had good success from Intel for obvious reasons, we have had great success from external Cisco cards, and good success from Atheros internal chipsets.
What I want to know is what are you using and what works the best. We want to pick one and move forward with only one type of card in the future for all of our laptops.
Thanks in advance for your input.

I think your right. It's so hard to get and stay with one model just because Dell may decide to do away with the model we have 500 of. Then we choose another model and the wireless NIC is a different model. Now we have two NIC's to learn to manage, find updates for, configure, troubleshoot, etc.
We also have issues with some laptops due to having several folks share the same laptop, so we use Windows Zero Config to get the profile we create to work across each users login. With the Intel Utility, we can't do that, and Windows is not the way to manage the wireless profiles. It just doesn't work well in my own opinion.
I know Cisco has a client that will allow the profile to work across multiple logins, is there anything else out there that doesn't cost to deploy?
I knew a guy that said he knew how to get the Intel clients to do it, but I can't get in touch with him.

What wireless device should I buy?

I'm getting a new desktop and I need a wireless device. I connect to a WPA-encrypted 802.11g network.
Please don't point me to a wiki or some other site. I just need someone to post here that they bought *blank* wireless device and use WPA and it works perfectly.
I don't care if it's USB or PCI or Witch-Craft interface. I cannot stand the frustration of wireless internet in Linux. I want a card that will work with just the Arch 2008 core iso. If you withhold any information, you are a bad, bad person.
Thank you!

As for me, you should use ASUS or NETGEAR cards.
I have no problems with them.
If there any problems with drivers installation you can use NDISWRAPER
But don't use D-LINK 'cause original schematic of impulse power suply is "unstable" and it can burn out
your card or AP. This caused by using btm-like components which are unstable on higher frequencies. (higher than 2 ghz and we have 2.4 ghz) And TP-link cards is "Chinese modified" D_LINK and it is more stable.
I think that the best way to power up your linux with wireless device is to use Atheros or Prism chipsets.
If you want "much powerfull" connection you should use Orinoco Gold card. This thing will blow up all the chanells.
There are nice Planet cards and AP's supported by wireless-ng. Why Planet?
Planet ARM's (CPU's) on AP's are about 166-233 mhz, but there are a lot of stuff on them.
And they've got much power - about 850 mW
As for me, if you don't whant to play with drivers you should use AP's.
Greatest AP that I've ever seen is Senao Deluxe. This series of AP's is about 1W of power!!! But there are some problems with their inner stuff.

What wireless speeds should I get on my iphone4

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