What would you say to this BI approach?

Hello,
There is a person who approaches to the BI like this:
select campo1, campo2, 'EMPTY' as campo3
case when .... end as campo4 from tabla1 left outer tabla2 where campo1 in (select ..... union all select campo1, campo2, campo3, 'EMPTY' as campo4 from tabla2 ...
the view ends up being several pages , lots of fields and joins.
For this person , ETL , data cleaning is to use empty
values ( ' empty ') or dummy to complete and you fit the binding ...
Sure, it's faster, but is really crazy , because this
is not ETL or anything , no DW, a huge view after it is created as fact table and dimension.
The information is collected from the data source (ERP ) in warm (no DW)
, not treated well and when there is a fault its a hell to find it.
To avoid "losing records " uses left outer join!
If you use an inner join to prevent losing data she does outer join. Better not speak about performance.
At the end it looks like more a report than BI.
What would you say ?
many thanks!
Example of the result:
Fact table it´s also dimension table (linked by "id registro") the rest of the dimensions are time dimensions

This approach is ultimately not scalable or maintainable over the long term. The complexity of the ETL will eventually reach a point where you need to do something that you can't do in a view. Additionally, views require you to nest logic rather
than doing things step-by-step, which can be harder to debug and maintain. I am speaking as a person who has done this, successfully, in certain situations.
Also, depending on the cardinality and number of columns in the only non-time dimension, ideally those would be separated into other dimensions.
However, if I had to guess, there are reasons behind this approach. Is this cube reloaded throughout the day? Is this a prototype/proof of concept where the developer is trying to show what is possible and demonstrate value before embarking on
a longer development process? When you encounter wacky code, as we all do, it is important to consider the reasons behind it.
-Ken

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What would you do with this credit profile? I need your expertise.

Hello MyFico Community,
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Is this a good plan? I'm still learning how to best utilize my portfolio. Are there other cards I should look at acquiring?  I appreciate any input.

Re: What would you do with this credit profile? I need your expertise.
Options06-15-2015 05:49 AM - edited 06-15-2015 06:03 AM
What I'd do doesn't really matter. These are not one-size-fits-all matters so each needs to determine his/her own strategy and tactics based on the individual's situation, goals, priorities, preferences, etc. IMO you don't know what to do because you're not clear on these matters. Very True, I am not clear but with the help of the community giving me things to consider I am getting there.
You need to define what you needs/want and then prioritize that list. That will give you a list of critiera that you then use to select cards that suit you. Thanks. Good way to focus my thinking about it.
Rewards is a common criteria and if rewards matter to you then you need to look at your spend and where your money is going to select rewards with the most benefit to you. Since i’m going to be using a main CC, I’d rather have cash rewards first or rewards that are versatile for gift cards. I already have a travel card that works well for me so thats not that important.
RandomSpirit wrote:
AAof Credit: Not sure about this Experian/Credit.com- 6.7 years. Credit Sesame says 1.8 months? Thanks. Was wondering where they figured this. AAoA is just an average like any other average. Add up the ages of the accounts and divide by the number of accounts. Many find it easier to convert into months, calculate and then convert back into years. You can use Excel and its date formulas if you don't want to do this manually. There are also online AAoA calculators. Experian is more likely to be correct. CS is probably providing AAoOA.
RandomSpirit wrote:
Was also thinking i’d put everything I can on cards and PIF each month to take advantage of the 0% and rewards. Is this a good plan? You're really not leveraging a 0% offer if you're PIF'ing each month. However, if you're not PIF'ing each month on cards without 0% offers then you're killing rewards.Okay this is confusing, would you mind clarifying? The Amex and QS have 0% interest for well into next year (not sure of exact date, I will look up again) so it would seem that it would not matter if i carry balance or pay in full until the real APR begins next year.
So whats the best way to utilize these as my main cards to get as much cash back(QS) and MR point as possible. Carry balance or pif, or does it not matter in this case for now?
RandomSpirit wrote:
Are there other cards I should look at acquiring?  As with all other request you need to tell us what you need/want so we have something to use to narrow down the options for you.
Now, I am leaning towards low interest being the most important to me, secondly would be cash back.
RandomSpirit wrote:
Was thinking about BoA Cash Rewards offer for 12.99 because of the lower interest rateHere's an example of why a prioritized list of criteria matters. If the lowest possible interest is a priority above all else then you shouldn't be looking at rewards cards as they typically come with higher interest rates. If you want the lowest possible APR you need to fins a barebones card. They're offered with rates as low as 6.x% depending on what you qualify for. This is most important to me
That said, rewards and a low APR aren't mutually exclusive but typically rewards cards will come with a higher APR as you aren't getting something for nothing. While I do try to get my APR's as low as possible you might want to consider why APR is a concern if you're paying in full. In case I ever have to carry a real balance.Not telling you what to do here but consdier such things when prioritizing your list. For example: is a lower APR more important than the biggest rewards for your spend?
RandomSpirit wrote:
Citi Dble Cash and, perhaps
Chase Freedom for sign-up bonus?
Honestly, I was thinking to have a more diversified portfolio. I don;t have any Chase or City cards.So far we have:
• 1 Low APR
• 2-High rewards rate on non-category spend (Double Cash)
• 4-Sign up bonus
• 3-Diversity
Which is most important? Which is least? Where do the rest fall? We can't tell you this. You need to tell us.
Again, I'd recommend looking at your spend and ensuring that your card lineup maxmizes rewards on your spend. The Double Cash is a good option for non category spend but if you haven't found higher rewards for a major spend category that you have then you might want to look into finding something for that category. Thanks for taking the time to offer your suggestions Tekeshi74. If gives me a lot consider.

What would you do with this system and very little geekness?

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Here is what the computer has now. It's 300gb only one harddrive is red-lining, almost full.
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I agree with some of the above comments, but not all.
First, 24GB of RAM is a nice luxury option, but it's not the minimum for AE - come on RJL you know better than to say that. 16 would be more than enough for a student project. I run a business, and it's more than enough for me. 16GB is affordable. It's about $150.00 max.
The Quadro card is over priced, and undervalued. Something like the Nvidia GTX570, 580,590 starting at about $335.00 is Adobe Authorized, and lots of performance.
Now, I'm running a 6 core AMD, but most people will tell you an Intel system is better. According to the benchmark, it seems correct. Get a nice i7 chip. What ever you can afford.
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Case count on $100 with enough fans, card reader,
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131701)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115070)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231473)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130613)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145533)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021)
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(http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051)
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Someone in your rea will build a system like this for you for somewhere around $125.00 if you can't do it, but looking on YouTube can give you a step by step.
I trust this helps.
Goodluck

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Bluedevil58 wrote:
I've been offered $700 for the entire set up.If that's true, take it. You're not going to get anything near that from someone who knows how to shop.

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This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

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http://www.smh.com.au/articles/2003/06/19/1055828440778.html

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What would you say to this BI approach?

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