Which camera body next for sports and low light?

All: I have that bug to get another Canon body. I have the opportunity to get a 7D for a little over $400, but is this the camera for me? I have gone from the Canon XTI to the Canon 60D. I love the 60D and thought of getting a 2nd body to keep the camera stuff (charger, batteries and SD cards) simpler and convenient. But I have been thinking of upgrading, if I am going to look for a 2nd body. I shoot a lot of low light and sports (soccer, basket ball and baseball mostly). To help with the low light, I upgraded my telophoto lens from a Tamron AF Aspherical XR DI LD(IF) 28-300 that is great for outdoors, but struggles a little inside.To upgrade that, I bought the Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L. This lens took care of my low light indoor problem with school concerts. In reading a little, they say the 7D is the way to go. But it is the first series, not the 2nd. Does that really matter? Instead of reading for hours, days and weeks, can some of you shed some light on what you think? I am also trying to stay in a reasonable budget of less than a $1000. Don't tell the wife I have the bug. That I will worry about after I decide what might be right. I look forward in hearing from the forum and I thank you ahead of time for your feedback and suggestions.

Similar Messages

I am going to buy a macbook pro for grade 12, and I need to know wheather I should get a macbook pro or a macbook pro retina. If someone could tell me (in a very simple way) which one is,better for me and why, I would be ever so apprreciative.

I am going to buy a macbook pro for grade 12, and I need to know wheather I should get a macbook pro or a macbook pro retina. If someone could tell me (in a very simple way) which one is,better for me and why, I would be ever so apprreciative.

Why do you need a expensive MacBook Pro?
Your attending high school and unless everyone else is rich also your likely going to be a target by the more poorer students for theft or damage to the machine.
You could keep it home, but if you need it for class then your exposed again.
Also at that age your not very careful yet, a MacBook Pro is a expensive and easily damaged machine.
Unless your made of money and so are others at your school, I would recommned a low profile, just does the job cheap Windows PC.
If it dies, gets lost, stolen or damaged because of your inexperince handling senstivie electronics then it's no big deal.
You can buy a Mac later on when your sure you have a need for it, currently there isn't much advantage of owning a Mac compared to a PC, they do just about the same things now, one just looks prettier than the other.
Since 95% of the world uses Windows PC's your going to have to install Windows on the Mac in order to keep your skills up there or be unemployed, so it's a extra headache and expense.
good luck

Datatable for upper and lower limit maintained in Measuring Point.

Hi,
I am making use of user exit : IMCR0001. User exit generates maintenance order for measuring reading which are beyong the range maintained in measruing point.
I have create measuring point with characteristics as TEMPERATURE. I have maintained upper limit : 1500 C & lower limit : 1200 C.
When I check datatable IMPTT and look for upper and lower limit, it is showing me : Upper range :1.7731500000000001E03 Lower range : 1.4731500000000001E03
Why is that I can not find the actual value as 1500 and 1200 n the datatable?
In which datatable I can find these values?
Kindly help.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
TOM.

Hi Tom,
These are system Generated Values, but they will be concatenated by a few Zeros, but you can always find the exact value,
I am able to see the Values correctly in my system follower by some 10-12 zero's "E"+ 02 or 03.
but can check the values
can cross check the Characteristics for the same measuring point?
Regards,
Yawar Khan

We have a Dell computer with iTunes (which we have had for years) and are suddenly unable to open it. The message: This file "iTunes Library.itl" cannot be read because it was created by a newer version of iTunes. Help!!

We have a Dell computer with iTunes (which we have had for years) and are suddenly unable to open it. The message: This file "iTunes Library.itl" cannot be read because it was created by a newer version of iTunes. Help!!

See Empty/corrupt iTunes library after upgrade/crash.
tt2

Which is better software for brochures and PDF forms ? Photoshop or InDesign ?

Which is better software for brochures and PDF forms ? Photoshop or InDesign ? and why ?

If you are going to be making a lot of brochures, with photos, you probably want both. Photoshop to edit the photos, and InDesign to assemble and layout images with text.

Camera Raw in PSE11 does not support Nikon D610 NEF; all software updates done accomplished - which Camera Raw version to download and where to find?

Hi,
Just bought a new camera (Nikon D610) and found out that Camera Raw in Photoshop Elements 11 does not support the RAW (NEF) files. Works fine with the Nikon D5200. PSE11 states that it's up to date. Support documents on Adope Website do not help at all. Some say the D610 is supported other say it's not. If I have to update Camera Raw, which version do I have to use for PSE11? Where can I find the download file?
I find it somehow strange, that it's not possible to contact the support in a common way, but have to use this Adobe Community. Anyway, if it works... :-)
Would be great, if someone could give me a hint, how to solve the problem.
Best Regards,
Boris

Just got the new PSE12 and found out that Camera Raw 8.4 plug in can not be installed, if the system runs on Vista!
So I got a new Nikon camera, new software (which can not be send back) and it looks like that I will need new system software and probably a new PC... :-(

Which codec to use for editing AND motion graphics (ala Final Cut Studio)?

I have a prosumer-level AVCHD camcorder (Panasonic HDC-TM700) and am working with Final Cut Studio. After doing a great deal of research it appears that there is NO real benefit to using any codec other than ProRes 422 for straight editing (a camera at this price point doesn't shoot images of a high enough quality to warrant using 422 HQ, which also requires more processor power, and not only does 4444 require rendering it also takes up a ton of space). However, I have read (many times) that there may be some benefit to using 422 HQ if I am doing motion graphics work (ala Motion 4). Can anyone verify this? Would it make any discernible difference when shooting with a camera like this? Even though it is a prosumer camcorder I am trying to squeeze as much value as I can out of the entire production.
Any input or advice?
Thanks!

Please don't double post.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=13122088#13122088
x

How to reduce storage for iCloud and lower monthly charges?

How to reduce iCloud storage plan and lower monthly charges?

The following may help: Manage your iCloud storage - Apple Support

FILMING WITH REBELT31, OPTIONS FOR RECORDING IN LOW LIGHT.

Hi there everyone. My question is that I want to know about a lenses that supports me good definition and quality in low light conditions. I am recording with a Rebel t3i. Thanks in advance.

bebefle_89 wrote:
This is my first DSLR and I am recording weddings and parties. For the nature of these events, most of them have low light conditions. I also need advice of a gadget to record everything without changing SD cards. Thanks.
The solution is a bigger (higher capacity) SD card. =) They go up to 64gb and 128gb now which should provide A LOT of recording capacity.
bebefle_89 wrote:
At the time, I've been working just with the 18-55 (the one that comes with the camera package), but I need an aditional lense because this lense I have, is graining all my videos because of the adjustment of ISO.
How much do you understand about f-stops, shutter speed, and ISO? What exposure settings are you using now for your videos? In short, you need a lens that can open up to a larger aperture (such as f/1.8, f1.4 or f1.2).
Here are some guides that will be helpful in explaining these concepts for you:
http://www.exposureguide.com/exposure.htm
http://www.makethephoto.com/articles/how-to-make-the-jump-from-automatic-shooting-to-manual-shooting

Camera wont take a photo - warning "Low light" on screen

The camera and phone have been working fine*, until today when I get the error message on screen "low light" when trying to take a picture. It is being used in a room with normal lighting.
The warning only goes away when I point the camera directly at a light bulb.
The camera refuses to take a photo, regardless whether the warning is displayed or not.
Changing from auto <-> night mode has no effect either.
Any suggestions?
*Apart from a few weeks ago, the video zoom in/out stopped working, although it did take photos and videos ok.

Hello Mark,
Welcome to the BlackBerry Support Community.
Sorry to hear about the issue you are experiencing with the Camera application on your BlackBerry smartphone.
Please reinsert your battery as a test. If this fails to resolve the issue, perform a reload or upgrade the BlackBerry Device Software. For more information on this procedure see the following article:
How to update or reinstall BlackBerry Device Software using BlackBerry Desktop Software - http://www.blackberry.com/btsc/KB03901
Let us know if this helps.
-FB
Come follow your BlackBerry Technical Team on Twitter! @BlackBerryHelp
Be sure to click Kudos! for those who have helped you.
Click "Accept as a Solution" for posts that have solved your issue(s)!

Ability of DSLR cameras to cut down UV and infrared light

Is it a fact that most digital cameras can cut down ultraviolet and infrared parts of the electromagnetic radiation on their own and therefore do not require separate filters for that purpose? If so, even an entry level DSLR, like my Canon EOS 1100D, is so capable?

Yes, this is true. In fact... more than you might guess.
In the days of film (I speak as if it's ancient history but that's how many of us here grew up shooting) the sensitivity of the film to various parts of the spectrum dependended entirely on the film itself. If you wanted to shoot infra-red, you loaded the camera with infra-red film. Non infra-red film was not particularly sesntivie to infra-red light.
Many films were mildly sensitive to UV light and the real point of the UV filter (which I think might surprise most people) is that whenever you pass light through a "lens", the lens has a "dispersion" effect which bends different wavelengths of light by a different amount. Compensating elements are used in the lens to attempt to correct for this and better lenses are judged substantially by how well they handle this. But it turns out human eyes are not sensitive to either UV (nor IR). Since UV is on the short end of the spectrum, it's light bends more than any other wavelength and would thus need the most correction. If left uncorrected, this might cause an image to appear slightly "soft" because the UV wavelength does not want to focus at precisely the same focus distance. Rather than "correct" the UV wavelength, it's much easier to just eliminate it entirely by using a filter -- problem solved.
Back to the era of digital...
Digital cameras are senstiive to both UV and IR and much moreso than film. Effectively _every_ digital camera needs to filter these wavelengths out. But more than this... human eyes are not actually 'equally" sensitive to all colors of light. We are far more sensitive to the wavelengths in the middle of the visible spectrum and not nearly as sensitive to the wavelengths nearing the sides of the visible spectrum. You are, in effect, VASTLY more sensitive to "greens" and much less sensitive to either red or blue. So while you see the world with reds, greens, and blues... the real world has significantly more red and blue than you are able to see. Cameras would see these more or less equally and this would result in images which appear to be saturated with red and blue.
To fix this, the camera does a few things...
First... the sensor is coated with "photosites" under a mask of red, green, and blue micro "filters". The array is usually referred to as a "Bayer Mask" (there are other types but this is the most common.) The mask has twice as many "green" sensitive sites as it does red or blue sites.
Second... the camera has both UV and IR filters inside and these are located immediately in front of the sensor (but behind the shutter). If you remove the lens, open the shutter, and look in side, then what you actually are looking at is a couple of layers of filters (which appear mostly clear to you) and then the sensor itself is behind them all.
Third... the UV and IR filters have a gradual cut-off curve. The IR wavelength begins at 700nm (and longer) Anything "shorter" than 700 is considered 'visible' light. The visible spectrum runs from roughly 400nm through 700nm. But it's not as if the filter allows 0% of wavelengths shorter than 400nm to pass and 0% of the wavelengths longer than 700nm to pass and yet 100% of the stuff between 400 and 700nm through. What it _really_ does is a gradual ramp.
The filter begins cutting IR light starting while it's still in the 500nm range -- it's already being filtered in the 600nm range. By the time we get to the 656nm wavelength (which happens to be a fire-engine red color -- that's the "Hydrogen alpha emission line" the filter is already cutting nearly 75% of the "red" light (and this is still considered "visible" light spectrum territory). By the time it gets to the 700nm wavelength it's cutting nearly all of it.
This may sound surprising or undesireable but actually... it more mirrors the sensitive amounts of your own eyes. Your eyes are less sensitive to those wavelengths so the camera is deliberately de-tuned to be less sensitive to those areas as well and in doing this, you end up with a photograph which more closely approximatelys the color proportions that your eyes are used to seeing.
There are people who modify their cameras so they can be used for IR photography and astrophotographers love to modify them for astrophotography purposes (the Canon 60Da is a special edition of the 60D which is pre-modified by Canon to be more sensitive to the wavelengths needed in astrophotography which benefits greatly if sensitive to the Ha (Hydrogen alpha) wavelength (656.28nm) is improved.)
Thats probably more than you wanted to know about the filters... but there you have it!
There is no "need" to use a UV (nor IR) filter on any of your lenses. Some people use them as a form of "protection" (to avoid getting dirt directly on the front element of the lens). There is a downside to useing them in that they often will create optical reflections in your image ... with "ghosting" or "flaring" that would not be visible had no filter been on the lens.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Which camera to get for Final Cut Express 3.5HD/ upgrade to FCE 4?

Hello everyone!
I know this has been discussed frequently, but i am sort of looking for a costum made solution for me
Following situation: Macbook, 2.16Ghz, 2GB Ram, 320GB HDD @ 5400rpm.
I am running 10.5.3, have Final Cut Express 3.5 installed and am used to work in it,
mainly for editing video files not coming from a camcorder.
I have some experience in SD miniDV recording/editing though.
NOW I was thinking of getting a new camcorder in the 1500$ max range.
I want to edit video files, sometimes burn DVDs, at other times only to have them on the mac.
What i like about some of these new HD consumer models they can record AVCHD and mpeg2 SD in DVD quality. That should allow me to record in mpeg2 and have less hassle with importing/converting into Final Cut Express 3.5 if lower quality is fine (which it is as of now)
At the same time I could upgrade to Final Cut Express 4 and import the AVCHD files, but I still taken aback from how time and resource consuming it is. Plus it does not allow full HD 1920x1080 in FCE 4 does it?
So I was looking at the Sony HDR SR11 as a nice camcorder. Seen it live, seems decent.
On the other hand, is a camera which records in HDV a better solution for me?
I could keep Final Cut 3.5, no need to upgrade right?
Is it less hassle to transfer files to the mac and edit them?
I am very unsure which way to go right now...

Hi Flore
This a huge debate. There are very few advantages to the new AVCHD camera's and the vgery long list of negative aspects of AVCHD camera's outweighs any usefulness of them. They are designed for Grandad to pick up and shoot good quality pictures and not for editing.
I have posted below the wiki address for AVCHD, please read the page. It is very important you do read it. It explains in depth about AVCHD.
I feel the is no real place for the hard drive based AVCHD camera. There is a place for a mini-dv tape based camera.
Life will be very hard if you go the Hard-drive camera route. Stay with tape.
Tape is cheap, hardy and easy to move around. Hard drives not so!!!
Take some time to read the following wikipedia page...PLEASE READ THIS PAGE!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AVCHD
You will see that AVCHD is not all the bee's knee's.
I personally hope it dies an extremly painful agonising drawnout death.
AVCHD has no place in the professional domain.
Justin... Durban.. South Africa

Which Camera Calibration Profile for Leica M8 with LR3?

I see there are 4 camera profiles for the Leica M8 that all produce significantly different results - ACR3.6 and 4.4 and Adobe Standard and Camera Standard. Any advice on which to use and when?
Thanks in advance.

ACR 3.6 (this is the Adobe standard profile) when support was first introduced.
ACR 4.4 (with this version of ACR) Adobe created an updated standard profile.
Adobe standard, this is the latest profile introduced during ACR 5.x, just a new naming method
Camera standard, this is a profile created by Adobe to simulate the profile by the M8 to produce in camera jpegs.
Use the one that pleases you most, as a starting point then create your own presets to make further adjustments.

Which Mac Pro config for PShop (and others)

Which processor config is best for Pshop multitaskers? Looking to choose a (new) Mac Pro. I am primarily a photo retoucher & photographer (in that order) But I also push my system doing 3D renderings, and often streaming Pandora while I work. Another forum offered suggestions to get the Quad core -and choose the 3.33Ghz 6 core "Westmere" (+ $1200) --as opposed to my first choice, which was the 8 Core w/two 2.4 Ghz "Westmere" processors. My goal is to keep the total cost under $4K -including additional RAM + ATI Radeon HD 5870. I chose the 8 core unit for the added RAM capability, and I thought that 8 cores would help when running multiple apps. But other posters had opined that since most apps -including Pshop (CS5) DON'T take advantage of multiprocessing the faster single processor w/6 cores would take the lead. I am a pro retoucher, and am often working multiple VERY large layered files. I do NOT do animation or video. I am also thinking of waiting for the next Mac Pro update -which past history suggests a possible late spring (2011) rollout. ( I wouldn't want a laptop as I work exclusively at my own studio, and want as much horsepower + longevity as I can afford)
Opinions appreciated -esp. real world tests using CURRENT Mac Pros. Thanks!

Yes, for best memory bandwidth performance, use 8 DIMMs, and it doesn't matter much what your mix and match is (other than certified of course for Mac Pro).
http://www.barefeats.com/harper3.html
No need to every discard the Apple memory until you get the urge to go to more than 8GB. Buying a full set of same and same time insures that they are less likely to deviate or have enough difference to cause trouble (even Crucial batches vary a bit).
I prefer TechWorks as a cut above, quality is good as it gets, comparable to Micron.
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/MatchedSets:+800Mhz+MacPro
The older Mac Pro was more trouble to get an ideal setup.

New Best Practice for Titles and Lower Thirds?

Hi everyone,
In the days of overscanned CRT television broadcasts, the classic Title Safe restrictions and the use of larger, thicker fonts made a lot of sense. These practices are described in numerous references and forum posts.
Nowadays, much video content will never be broadcast, CRTs are disappearing, and it's easy to post HD video on places like YouTube and Vimeo. As a result, we often see lower thirds and other text really close to the edge of the frame, as well as widespread use of thin (not bold) fonts. Even major broadcast networks are going in this direction.
So my question is, what are the new standards? How would you define contemporary best practice?
Thanks for your thoughtful replies!
Les

stuckfootage wrote:
I wish I had a basket of green stars...
Quoted for stonedposting.
Bzzzz, crackle..."Discovery One, what is that object?
Bzz bzz."Not sure, Houston, it looks like a basket...." bzzz
Crackle...."A bas...zzz.. ket??"
Bzzz. "My God, It's full of stars!" bzz...crackle.
Peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeep!

Which camera body next for sports and low light?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for