Which is better. . . a Canon Sure Shot or a Canon Power Shot?

I need to purchase a camera good enough to get good close-ups for items to sell on eBay. Which is better...a Canon Sure Shot or a Canon Power Shot?

Hi, leigh8389, thanks for posting!
If you're looking for a currently-produced digital camera, we would suggest purchasing a PowerShot camera. You'll find that our PowerShots offer the very best in macro capability, color reproduction, portability, and convenience for digital editing and printing.
For your reference, our Sure Shot line of cameras operated exclusively on 35mm film rather than digital memory cards, and was produced from the mid 1990s-the mid 2000s.
Additionally, please feel free to check out our Canon Direct Sales store at shop.usa.canon.com, where you can explore Canon's latest Powershot models; we hope this helps!

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Has anyone been phished by the Fake Add On (extension) Sure Shot Pro?

Tonight Firefox opened to the Update page for my extension, Sure Shot (screen saver) which is now available in Sure Shot Pro, a upgraded version of the same FIrefox extension with applicability on other browsers. I was offered a 30 day trail and a free security scan for Microsoft products before I downloaded anything.
(Boy, in these days it's great to find a company like SureShot that reminds me to do a scan before downloading ANYTHING--especially after an update to my broswer! Thanks Sure Shot.)
And I swear that's how it happened...about an hour ago. Sure Shot Pro even provided me with 2 screen shots while I was reading!
The only problem is...well actually there are a few. The first is, I don't have an extension on Firefox that takes screen shots,. I do on the other browsers I use because I need to have one. But there is not an adequate on in Firefox. Nonetheless, a quick glance up to the tool bar area showed the '''S''' (the icon for Sure Shot) glowing Hot Pink up on the left. I just took my time...did use IDM for the screen shot, which was of their screen shot and edited it right on line saying I did believe them to be cheats, liars and scum. I then opened the Problem Steps Recorder from Microsoft for Windows 7, a program that records in screen shots, while a User recreates the steps he or she takes to solve a problem or do something that is not working. I took photos of the Sure Shot Pro site...which is that same cheap looking font that must be a classic Estonian typeset. The edit page was a tacky ripoff of of any HTML editor you'd like to mention. The icons for the various browsers were the best indicator that these jerks probably do fool a few fools, all probably under 4 years of age who just bang on the keyboard. The artwork--or rather lack of it--depicting the Fire Fox was lame--they all were. But don't kid yourself, these guys did their homework. I opened my Add Ons page and found Sure Shot, sure as sh#t listed as one of my extensions...that Add On Page looked almost exactly like the real thing. I actually thought I was seeing my own extensions...but they screwed up on the coloring of he page itself.
On the off chance that you are not 4 and not banging on the keyboard but are actually an adult like me who has been taken in the past...THIS IS NOT REAL. Exit Firefox, go back in Safe Mode...or just go back as usual but open Firefox and go directly to TOOLS>Add Ons and check your Add Ons and Get Add Ons...this is where they spent a lot of time making everything look very very realistic. You could easily make the decision to try the software for 30 days after checking your Add Ons and "remembering" that you must have forgotten that you chose a screen saver add on at some point in the past...Because there it is on your list...the list provided by Firefox, not some website! Right? Please, if you find this extension, REMOVE it. Don't just Disable it...and don't do their scan before downloading anything ...their scan'' is '' a download and with it comes the malware it holds. Report sites that are phisihing you. It is hard to believe July 9th is so close with well over 1/4 million owners of computers have the DNS malware that could cause them to lose access to the internet next month AND THEY DON'T KNOW THEY KNOW IT!

Thanks for letting us know about this. Firefox now has an easy tool that gets rid of things like this. Read about it here - [[Reset Firefox – easily fix most problems]]

Which Speedlite for my Canon 600d I am new to Photography

Which Speedlite for my Canon 600d
I am new to Photography
I am choosing between
a) Bower SDF680C Digital Flash for Canon SLR Cameras, Guide Number 139
http://www.adorama.com/BOWSFD680C.html
or
b) Bower SFD926C Dedicated Digital Flash for Canon SLR Cameras, Guide Number 125
http://www.adorama.com/BOWSFD926C.html
I want a Wireless Speedlite,
btw how does these Speedlites do the Wireless Connection with the 600d if they can ?
Does both use Slave Function, does both have Wireless Channel Selection.
Does My camera the 600d have Wireless Channel Selection by Radio Signal I know my camera has Slave Function Pls Help pls

1) My Canon 600d has a Slave Function and it does Not have any Radio signal or Infrared Wireless Connection between an External Speedlite ?
Correct, though I'm not sure it's called a slave function? The 600D can use it's flash to trigger speedlights that are off camera, and set in slave mode. But it has no Radio or IR signal.
The IR is something that is on speedlights. As mentioned above, it's really just red light. But it's used for focus, not for triggering flashes.
2) is the E-TTL just like the Operating system or Firmware of the 600D Flash System ?
TTL is an automated flash function, and it will be a function on a speedlight, not a camera (though you're cameras flash does have eTTL). It lets the flash/camera decide how much flash power it needs. In a nutshell, it fires a flash before opening the shutter so it can measure how much light it needs, then fires a second time with the shutter open to expose the scene. It all happens very fast, you can barely see it.
Flashes will either come in manual only, or offer TTL in addition to manual. Manual is just that, you choose the power level, and it fires during your shot.
eTTL is Canon's version of TTL.
3) Does the 600d have a Wireless E-TTL or something like that ?
As mentioned above, the 600D can use its on-camera flash to trigger other flashes, and yes, it can do it in eTTL.
The down side to this is that the flashes have to be in the line of sight of the camera's flash (more or less). [And it uses up your camera battery for the flash] When you want to place flashes in modifiers or behind people, or screens or in a completely different room, it doesn't work so well. So people use Radio Frequency transmitters to trigger the flashes. It used to be an expensive thing to have, but now it can be done quite cheap, and quite reliable.
So the Only option I have for my 600d wireless connection to a Flash is
a) Slave Function.
b) I buy a Wireless Transmitter and receiver
Pretty much. You could also get a long cord to get it off camera, but it's really not a great option.

How to upload a movie from my canon power shot to my macbook on iphoto?

Hi,
I have a canon power shot in which I have a very short movie. I want to put it on my macbook so I can upload it to you tube. I have tried to put it on iphoto but I'm still trying to learn that application so I'm not even sure I can do that. Can someone please help?

The easiest way to move it to the Mac is to use Image Capture, in your Applications Folder.
iPhoto is a database for organising your pics and photos from your camera.
Have a look here
http://www.apple.com/ilife/tutorials/#iphoto
for tutorials that will introduce iPhoto and the other iLife apps.
Regards
TD

Canon Power Shot SX50 HS.

Hello All,
I am a new member on the message boards. Owner of a Canon Power Shot SX50 HS.
I enjoy nature and take lots of bird, butterfly, deer, etc. shots. Also scenery shots.
I do not understand the setting on this camera and I only use the auto mode.
Question: What are the best settings (Apature and ISO) for the type of pictures I take.   Some come out sharp but lots have a blur.    Suggestions wlecome.......Thanks!

Hi ssobel, GloriaS and everyone,
Thanks for looking and commenting. I'm practicing daily and learning something new about the SX50 with each outing. So far, this is what's been working for me.
I believe four main factors have helped me get the type of images I'm very happy with.
1. Shooting primarily in Shutter Priority Mode or Manual Mode so I have control over shutter speed, which I set as high as possible for each scene.
2. Adjusting Exposure Compensation values for each and every shot when using Shutter Priority Mode or Aperture Priority Mode.
3. Using Center-Weighted-Average Metering.
4. Using the "Framing Assist - Lock" feature is extemely effective when using the camera at, or near, maximum zoom. It's a button located ON the camera that you press while composing the shot. The use of this feature is explained on page 57 of the manual. Along with the other strategies I use to obtain sharp hand-held images when shooting toward the long end of the zoom, this extra bit of stabilization the Framing Assist - Lock provides really helps.
I don't use a tripod when I take bird & wildlife photos. With a zoom this generous and especially on a point-and-shoot camera, it's helped me immensely to shoot in either Manual Mode or Shutter Priority Mode because I can increase the shutter speed to very high values and by doing so, greatly reduce hand-held camera shake. Along with the excellent image-stabilization performance of the camera, this combination (fast shutter speed & image-stabilization) gives my photos that extra bit of clarity people often comment on. Many of the photos on my website were taken at near or maximum zoom! Fast shutter speeds must not only be thought of for reducing subject motion blur.
Also, I'm a heavy user of the "Exposure Compensation" features this camera has to offer and this allows me to effectively control the level of lightness or darkness I want in the final image while shooting in Shutter Priority Mode and Aperture Priority Mode and is a good strategy before I'm forced to increase the ISO level thereby helping to keep noise levels to a minimum. In Shutter Priority Mode the camera automatically selects the aperture value. While Aperture Priority Mode is an excellent way to get great photos with this camera, I mostly focus on single subjects in my photography, like birds, so depth of field isn't as important to me and I'm able to control light entering the camera in other ways. I specifically set an exposure compensation value for every shot I take. Although the values might change slightly from shot to shot, and depend on the amount of bright sulight striking the subect, they're usually in the minus range of say, -1.3 to -1.0, or lower in some cases. This is critical to the style and "look" of what I want in an image. I prefer a slightly "darker tone" in my images and along with keeping the ISO values as close to ISO 80 or ISO 100 as possible, this is how I achieve images with such deep and rich color chiefly because I'm preventing the camera from producing an overexposed image. This is especially how I capture fine feather detail in white feathered birds such as egrets. Many small sensor point-and-shoot cameras tend to "overexpose" the image resulting in "blown-out highlights" producing images that often lack nice color quality and sharpness so I intentionally "underexpose" the image a bit and get exactly what I desire. The results simply look more dramatic and naturally sharper, in my opinion. In post-processing the only "correction" I ever really need to make is a one-click "Auto Contrast" in Photoshop Elements. I never have to sharpen an image. Each image on my website will display the actual settings used for that particular photo and is a good way to see the shutter speeds and the exposure compensation settings that were used, as well. Finally, I like the results I get using Center-Weighted- Average Metering.
So far, these are the core settings I've been using:
“Recording Pixel Setting" (Image Size) is set to "L" for LARGE 12M 4000x3000 & "Compression Ratio" (Image Quality) is set to "SUPERFINE JPEG." I use Continuous Auto-Focus, Auto-Focus Frame: FlexiZone, Center-Weighted-Average Metering, Spot AE is set to Center. I stay as close to ISO 80 or 100 as possible, although this camera seems to do quite well with slightly higher ISO values with regard to visible "noise." High ISO NR is set to "Standard" and I NEVER USE AUTO ISO. Image Stabilization is set to: Continuous, and I select the appropriate white-balance PRESET icon for the particular weather condition, and I never use the "AWB" preset icon. I prefer to shoot using Burst Mode. I do not use i-Contrast, Dynamic Range Correction or Shadow Correction, either.
Since I DO NOT use "Custom Colors," settings regarding Sharpness, Contrast, and Saturation remain at their Default (ZERO) points, so therefore, I have not pressed any buttons to increase these values beyond their factory defaults. I shoot all my photographs via the LCD which remains at the factory default brightness. This should cover most of the main settings I use and I'll have to dig deeper into the menus to see if there are some new settings or features in the SX50 I haven't noticed yet.
Hopefully, this introduction will prove helpful if you're interested in trying a different approach with your SX50. To be sure, there are many ways to get good results from this camera and this is simply how I prefer to do it! Can't wait to see the pictures from your trip!
Best regards,
Tony
Tony Britton Photography

Trouble importing photos from Canon Power Shot SD1300

Until today, my family has had no difficulty importing photos into iPhoto from our Canon Power Shot SD1300 camera. But when I plugged in today to import the most recent few months of shots, the program would not accept the .jpg file format (or so the notice said). Similarly, Image Capture would not import the images.
I'm running iPhoto 8.1.2, Image Capture 6.0.1 on a MacBookPro6,2 with an Intel Core i5/2.4 GHz machine with OS X 10.6.8.
Why is this suddently not working? Did something happen with recent updates of software that screwed everything up? We've tried most of the sensible things from the camera end: deleting old photos so the memory card shouldn't be overloaded, recharging battery....
What's next?
TCC

Unfortunately, the iPhoto error message, which had something to do with "not recognizing the file type" or something (though they were listed as .jpg files) no longer shows up. Now iPhoto thinks there are no photos on the camera, though there are quite a few actually.
Image Capture recognizes that there are image files, but says, "Import Error. An error occurred while importing. 347 items were not imported." And then it begins with a list of the first files on the camera.

Which is better for performance Azure SQL Database or SQL Server in Azure VM?

Hi,
We are building an ASP.NET app that will be running on Microsoft Cloud which I think is the new name for Windows Azure. We're expecting this app to have many simultaneous users and want to make sure that we provide excellent performance to end users.
Here are our main concerns/desires:
Performance is paramount. Fast response times are very very important
We want to have as little to do with platform maintenance as possible e.g. managing OS or SQL Server updates, etc.
We are trying to use "out-of-the-box" standard features.
With that said, which option would give us the best possible database performance: a SQL Server instance running in a VM on Azure or SQL Server Database as a fully managed service?
Thanks, Sam

hello,
SQL Database using shared resources on the Microsft data centre. Microsoft balance the resource usage of SQL Database so that no one application continuously dominates any resource.You can try the
Premium Preview
for Windows Azure SQL Database which offers better performance by guaranteeing a fixed amount of dedicated resources for a database.
If you using SQL Server instance running in a VM, you control the operating system and database configuration. And the
performance of the database depends on many factors such as the size of a virtual machine, and the configuration of the data disks.
Reference:
Choosing between SQL Server in Windows Azure VM & Windows Azure SQL Database
Regards,
Fanny Liu
If you have any feedback on our support, please click here.
Fanny Liu
TechNet Community Support

Which is better, Netgear N900 or Airport Extreme?

Which is better, Netgear N900 or Airport Extreme?

Gpcn,
I'm going to highly recommend the new Airport Extreme. I've been having all sorts of wifi and networking issues because of the saturated 2.4 GHz spectrum in my surrounding neighborhood.
I finally bit the bullet on friday night and purchased the Airport Extreme. I could not be happier!
I used to top out at around 8 Mbit/s download and 1 Mbit/s upload with my older Linksys setup. Now i'm getting 40+ Mbit/s and 2 Mbit/s respectively.
Not only that, but i'm no longer dropping my wifi with my devices (latops, iPads, iPhone, etc). It's very consistent and the speeds are amazing!
Sure it may be pricier than others, but it's worth every penny. The setup is very easy and you get Three Gigabit Ethernet LAN ports for connecting computers or network devices as well as built-in NAT support for security. You are better off getting the Airport Extreme.

Which is better for physical therapy graduate student, a MacBook air or MacBook pro?

Which is better for a physical therapy graduate student, a MacBook air or MacBook pro?

Macbook Air
I cannot see you using strenuous applications to help you with a Physical Therapy Degree.
Have a think of whether you want an 11" or 13".
I'd recommend the 13" because although the 11" is perfect for taking notes in class etc.; when it comes to performing as a desktop and not sitting on your lap, it can seem too small.
The 13" is the best of both worlds. You can keep the portability and the power in one.
Make sure you get a large enough SSD, they always fill up fast with documents and possibly downloaded text books etc.
With the 13" if you decide to create a innovative project or a collection of photos, you can also use more RAM-consuming applications like iPhoto and iMovie, or even Aperture without worrying about freezing.

Which is better... Sleep or shutdown?

Which is better for your computer... sleep or shutdown?
Thanks

Technically, it doesn´t matter much if you shut your computer down or just put it to sleep., i.e. nothing is more detrimental to your computer´s "well-being" than the other, respectively.
I´m not sure about the Sleep Mode with the iMac, but I believe it´s a suspend-to-ram, right?
That would mean any unsaved data isn´t saved and could get lost if the computer fails to wake up from sleep.
That could be a point against making the computer sleep.
When it´s sleeping, the computer will also consume a steady, albeit very low quantity of electrical power. From an energy-saving standpoint, that could also be counted as a negative aspect.
MacBooks and MBPs use suspend-to-disk as sleep mode, which means the contents of the ram is saved onto the hard drive and then the computer is fully turned off. Takes a bit longer than suspend-to-ram.
I always put my computers to sleep... both my iBook G3 and my Win laptop.
My win laptop will automatically enter suspend-to-disk after 2 hours if it isn´t used again by then.
hth
ibook g3, acer travelmate w/ pentium m 725 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Which is Better? Mac or PC?

Which is Better?
Intel iMac Mac OS X (10.4.5)

Hello,
I'm not going to argue that a Mac is better, but I do have a response to:
looking computers and the software is great however
they have major compatibility issues. for example
many websites do not support mac's Ex.
www.aircanada.com
I have never had any problem exchanging documents or viewing web pages with the Mac.
All my document exchanges have worked flawlessly, and work going both to and from Windows PC's.
But, you need to make sure you are using the right program on the Mac if you want to share files with PC users.
As for the website compatibility, the site you provided as an example will work just fine. They just don't want you to know it.
What that website is doing, is running a check to see what web-browser you are using. Beyond that, they are also running a check to see which computer you are using.
So, what you need to do is make sure that your browser tells their website what it wants to hear.
So, in Safari, you can use the "Debug" menu to have Safari report itself as the Windows version of Internet Explorer.
Go to the Debug menu, then pick "User Agent", then choose: "Windows MSIE 6.0".
If the site still won't load, then go to the site first, and perform the selection again from the Debug menu.
Basically, what you are doing is changing what Safari identifies itself as.
Additionally, the website that you listed does list that it is compatible with Mac OS 9.0 or later. So, it should work provided you pass it's checks.
If for some reason it still won't work, contact them since they say that it is compatible with the Mac.
The only sites that absolutely will not work with a Mac are sites that use "Active X" to take over control of your computer or communicate directly with the operating system. Fortunately, those sites are getting rarer and rarer.
The only site I've run across in recent times that uses Active X is Microsoft's Windows Update site (which you wouldn't need with a Mac anyway).
As for enabling the "Debug" menu in Safari, if it is not already there, you can do that by:
Closing Safari
Open "Terminal" which is located at:
Hard Drive --> Applications --> Utilities --> Terminal
Then type the following at the command line:
defaults write com.apple.Safari IncludeDebugMenu 1
If you would prefer an automated method of enabling the Debug menu, you can always download the free Safari Enhancer program which includes a setting for this feature:
http://www.lordofthecows.com/softwarelist.php

Coding Preference ..Which is better for memory?

Hey all,
Javas garbage collection is sweet. However, I was reading somewhere that setting some objects to null after I'm done with them will actually help.
(help what .. I'm not sure.. my guess is memory used by the JVM)
Thus I have two ways to do the same thing and I'd like to hear peoples comments on which is "better" ... or will yield faster performance.
Task: I have a Vector of Strings (called paths) that hold absolute file paths. (Don't ask why I didn't use a String[]) I'd like to check and see if they exist, and if not, create them... I'll use the createNewFile() method for that.
Method A -- Here I'll reuse that File object
public void myMethod()throws Exception{
File file = null;
for(int i = 0; i < paths.size(); i++){
file = new File(paths.get(i).toString());
boolean made = file.createNewFile();
if(made){doSomething();}
file = null;
}Method B -- Here I'll use um... "dynamically made" ones that I won't eventually be set back to null
public void myMethod()throws Exception{
for(int i = 0; i < paths.size(); i++){
boolean made = (new File(paths.get(i).toString())).createNewFile();
if(made){doSomething();}
}So when the code eventually exists myMethod, the object "file" will be out of scope and trashed.... correct? If thats the case, then would there be any other differences between the two implementations?
Thanks

There's no real difference between the two. Choose the style you prefer,
although in the first one I'd lose the "file = null" statement since that
variable is about to disappear, and I'm move the definition into the loop
-- always give variables as small a scope as possible, mainly to
keep the logic simple:
public void myMethod()throws Exception{
    for(int i = 0; i < paths.size(); i++){
        File file= new File(paths.get(i).toString());
        boolean made = file.createNewFile();
         if(made){doSomething();}
}

Which is better iDVD or iMovie

i am doing a movie project for english. this girl im working with gave me a flash drive with videos (filmed on an ipad) and pictures (camera...not ipad) and she asked me to put it in sort of movie form tonight....im not sure if she wanted me to just put all the stuff in the right place or completely finish it ready to go. Which is better to use for this type of thing and will work on a dell computer (without idvd or imovie) for viewing through a flashdrive. and can i put the finished product on youtube?

You need both.

Email settings: POP vs. IMAP...Which is better?

I use my iPhone for work, like many of us do. I came from a balckberry, so I am use to getting my emails instantly..... I will say that is about the only thing I miss.....
I can set up my work email as either a pop or imap. Which is better? Do they both fetch? I wish the iPhone offered push email (I'm sure I am not the only one).
thoughts, comments, ideas, sloutions???/

The only reason push access is supported with every email account accessed with a Blackberry is because every email account is routed through RIM's dedicated email delivery service for the Blackberry which includes some features not available otherwise.
Different from a Blackberry, the iPhone's Mail app communicates direct with the incoming mail server for an email account - no different from accessing the account with an email client on your computer. The email account must support Push access with the iPhone's Mail app, and that is with an Exchange account, a MobileMe account, and with a Yahoo account created with the Yahoo account preset. A Gmail account can be accessed as an Exchange account with the iPhone's Mail app.

Which is better,the Apple TimeCapsule or the WD MyCloud for backing up pixs and datas?

I am not too sure which is better for backing up my pixs that i have saved and dont want to lose them,am thinking which would be best for me to purchase?the apple timecapsule or the wd mycloud,i heard great things about both but not sure from someone who got experience,so could u help me out and tell me which is better and why?
thanks in advance...

Backup is backup. Doesn't matter how you do it, but that you do it.
Given the choice you posited I would choose the Time Capsule if you want to use Time Machine. If you wish to use third-party backup software then you can only use the WD. It comes with its own proprietary backup software. Or you can go another direction and avoid cloud/network backup which is very slow.
Basic Backup
For some people Time Machine will be more than adequate. Time Machine is part of OS X. There are two components:
1. A Time Machine preferences panel as part of System Preferences;
2. A Time Machine application located in the Applications folder. It is
     used to manage backups and to restore backups. Time Machine
     requires a backup drive that is at least twice the capacity of the
     drive being backed up.
3. Time Machine requires a backup drive that is at least double the
     capacity of the drive(s) it backs up.
Alternatively, get an external drive at least equal in size to the internal hard drive and make (and maintain) a bootable clone/backup. You can make a bootable clone using the Restore option of Disk Utility. You can also make and maintain clones with good backup software. My personal recommendations are (order is not significant):
1. Carbon Copy Cloner
2. Get Backup
3. Deja Vu
4. SuperDuper!
5. Synk Pro
6. Tri-Backup
Visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQ on backup and restore. Also read How to Back Up and Restore Your Files. For help with using Time Machine visit Pondini's Time Machine FAQ for help with all things Time Machine.
Although you can buy a complete external drive system, you can also put one together if you are so inclined. It's relatively easy and only requires a Phillips head screwdriver (typically.) You can purchase hard drives separately. This gives you an opportunity to shop for the best prices on a hard drive of your choice. Reliable brands include Seagate, Hitachi, Western Digital, Toshiba, and Fujitsu. You can find reviews and benchmarks on many drives at Storage Review.
Enclosures for FireWire and USB are readily available. You can find only FireWire enclosures, only USB enclosures, and enclosures that feature multiple ports. I would stress getting enclosures that use the Oxford chipsets especially for Firewire drives (911, 921, 922, for example.) You can find enclosures at places such as;
1. Cool Drives
2. OWC
3. WiebeTech
4. Firewire Direct
5. California Drives
6. NewEgg
All you need do is remove a case cover, mount the hard drive in the enclosure and connect the cables, then re-attach the case cover. Usually the only tool required is a small or medium Phillips screwdriver.

Which is better. . . a Canon Sure Shot or a Canon Power Shot?

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