Which is better to buy in ear, over ear or on ear headphones

the questions in the title

I don't think it's just a matter of cost and sound quality. Here are some factors that are worth considering (I think it's accurate):
In-Ear: They go into your ear canal, which helps to keep out external noise. They are very portable. They are typically able to be used on any type of source without needing an amp for more power to boost the sound quality. Some problems are that users may be very uncomfortable with having rubber, silicone, or foam in their ear canal. Also, you may have issues with hearing noise from the cable rubbing up against itself or clothes, which can be very annoying.
On-Ear: They can give good quality sound, some require an amp, offers closed or open phones. Some can squeeze too tightly on your ears, which can make you sore after awhile, or some are too loose and can fall off easily. These typically are the worst at blocking out external noise. They can also make your ears hot after awhile.
Over-Ear: The pads on these go around your ear (rest against your head). Comfort-wise, these are the most comfortable, IMO, though they might also make your ears sweaty. They also have good noise isolation. The really good ones really need an amp to give you the best sound from portable devices, and they may shorten the battery life on the portable. You also have the choice of closed and open phones.

Similar Messages

Which is better to buy?

Hi !! I don know whether this is valid question to ask in this section. I am trying to buy new android smart phone but confused with lot of models so pls suggest me which one is good to buy I marked few models like htc desire u,v,w , galaxy grand quattro ,and xperia m so which is best one to buy based on all performance.. Thanks in advance

You know a lot of people hype on one particular brand and or model over others. I think what most of is boils down to is many people say that what they purchased is the best because they don't make mistakes or some such.
On the other hand if a phone truly does suck you will hear about it.
Essentially smartphones come three ways today.
Android
Windows and
Apple.
These are the operating systems and each will present itself in a different way.
I have a Samsung Galaxy 4 and I like it.
Your most common phones these days are typically Android operating system. A lot of people like Android because of the very large number of Apps out there and many of them are free.
My wife has an Apple iPhone and she likes it.
I really think a lot of the phones available today are all going to be decent phones and in the bottom essence they are all going to do the same thing for you. Make Calls, text, run apps.
As said, I have a Galaxy 4 and it really performs well. Better than my last phone. Which is to be expected. I had a Samsung Droid Charge and it performed better than its predecessor etc...
I think it is just really important to go into a store and simply pick up the phones, play with them a little and find one that feels right to you. Knowing that one phone in a particular operating system is going to do the same things pretty much as the next. Even across operating systems, they do a lot of the same things.
One of the biggest differences may be in the camera. My S4 has an awesome camera. All the iPhones have good cameras.

Please which is better to buy, a canon 5D mark III or a 7D?

Solved!
Go to Solution.

The additional detail helps a great deal. How much do you have invested in the APS-C format 550D? If you go the 5D Mark II route you'll have to replace any EF-S lenes to get a full frame image. But you know this already because you're a wedding and studio photographer.

Which is better Apple Ear Pods vs. In Ear Earbuds

So which is better? I can't really tell the difference because there like the same. Unless I'm not paying attention to the bass and tremble.

Haven't tried multiple EAR files before but encountered constraints when using one EAR file.
For example, we may need to wait for another colleague to complete his portion on programming so that we can proceed to implement the entire EAR file. Is this also a constraint for multiple EAR files application ?
If we can separate the EAR files into different modules, different colleagues can work on different modules concurrently. It could be more efficient... Is that the case ??

Should I buy Imac 27'' 3.1 or the new imac 27'' 2.9, which is better?

Should I buy Imac 27'' 3.1 or the new imac 27'' 2.9, which is better? The use to which it is going to give is photographs, video, text processing. If opt for the new'll have to buy an external drive for recording of videos and photographs.

Photos, text & most other things should be fine on either, Video may be a bit better with the faster one, but Video card options may be a far bigger deal.

Which is better??????

which is better?Dam really confused which speaker to buy??
i currently have a creative m2600.but am not getting enough performance or that feel while watching movies like avatar,step up 3 etc......so am planning to buy a 5.1.......not planning but i have decided to buy a 5.1....so..
which is better? the 6160 or 6060 or 6100.
which of these will provide me relly great exprience while playing games and most importantly while whatching hd movies and while listening to music.......
and other than this what i have to ask is...what is this "db" in speakers. i mean while looking at a speaker specs we can see it..like 65db,85db,75db..etc........
and when i compared specs of the three speakers i mentioned above i saw that the 6160 has low "db"........why is that?

The specs is just a guide, you won't be able to tell the slight difference in db using just your ears. Besides, it is just a comparison between the level of a music to the level of background noise, it does not necessary mean which speaker sounds better. If possible, please make a trip to your local electronics store and try out the speakers system yourself.

Which is better: 2-wire or 3-wire transmitter

Dear Sirs,
I am going to buy two NI modules 9203. The problem I am facing now is related to the transmitters (pressure transmitter and resistance thermometer). The output of the transmitters is 4-20 mA. I have the option either to get the transmitter with 2-wire or 3-wire output.
I want to know which is better regarding the accuracy of the readings and the noise, taking into account that the cable will 5 meter long.
Thanks for your help.
Yours,
Ehab

In industrial nomemclature, a two wire transmitter is powered by the receiving device over the same two wires as the signal (4-20mAdc). The power is typically 24 VDC.
A 3-wire transmitter requires two wires for signal and three additional wires for power.
There are howevr some dc powered transmitters with special shielding that use a three wire connection. It must be compatible with both the transmitter and the reciever.
Another tip is to always use a 4 wire RTD for maximum accuracy up to hundreds of meters. For short runs a 3-wire RTD will usually be satisfactory IF all three wires are of equal rresistance.
Orlando Accounting
Accounting in Orlando

Advice Needed... which is better?

Hello... I am not a computer 'genius", but not a complete "computer idiot' either. I have a question, and then I will give my reasoning, because maybe it matters in the decision.
Which is better, a PC (Gateway) with 6GB Ram, i5 processor, 1.5TB HD or an Imac 4GB Ram, i3 processor, 1TB HD??
Basically, I have had a Dell 2GB Ram desktop for 7 years, which suited me fine. I ran CS3 on it with no problems. I recently had a virus, and had to swipe my computer, and when I re-installed Adobe, my Premiere Pro will no longer allow me to edit properly (audio plays fine, while video lags and skips around during viewing). I know it is time to get a new computer either way, and a few friends have told me that I really shouldnt be running Premiere Pro on 2GB of ram, and suggested at least 6GB.
I found a Gateway for $650 on bestbuy site with the above specs... but then someone I know, told me I would be better with an Imac with the specs above. Is that possible that a 4GB mac would run better than the 6GB PC?
also.. will CS3 work on the Windows 7 PC, but if I get Mac system I will be using CS5.
I use Photoshop, and Premier Pro for simple music video editing (5-6min videos). I do not do anything major..but want to at least be able to view what I am doing.
thanks

While I don't agree that Macs are as inferior as some here claim, for your purposes an i5 iMac is certainly inadequate. The i7 quad core iMac is something else again; it can take up to 16GB of RAM, which is plenty for most applications. The particular i7 CPU in the iMac is also quite capable with a number of performance enhancing technologies on board. The big problem with the iMac, though, is that it comes with only one internal HDD; there is an added SSD option, but in my opinion it's still too expensive. For video you should have at least two internal drives and preferable three or four, as others here have said. External drives are generally slower, even if you use a FireWire 800 port. Sometime this year Apple may add a Thunderbolt port to the iMac, as they have to the MacBook Pro. This will be a game changer for external media, with unheard of flexibility in connectivity and the performance of Fiber Chanel at an affordable price. There are already external RAIDs coming to market with Thunderbolt connections. However, there is no date certain for such an iMac refresh.
For even semi-serious video you need some heavy iron, whether Mac or PC. There are some great Mac Pros available now with up to 12 cores on two 6 core Intel Westmere processors; however, even though I am a Mac fan, I'm sure you can build or get a BTO Windows PC with comparable specs for less. I suggest a minimum of four modern CPU cores to handle multi-threading and multi-tasking chores. At least two fast internal hard drives, four is preferable. And, of course, the more RAM the better, though this too will raise the price. You may not get the maximum RAM right away; the important thing is that the motherboard be able to support substantial RAM upgrades so that you can grow into it.
The challenge, even with PCs, is that a number of core technologies are changing right now. SixGb/s hard drives are becoming available but it would take a high-end and relatively new motherboard to support them properly. So, besides the question of which computer to get, you have to consider when to get it. If you need it right now, that narrows your choices somewhat because you cannot wait for these new technologies to come on line.
The most important thing to consider, though, is not to cheap out. Presumably you will be doing some real work on it, so think of this computer as an investment in your own future. Buy the most computer you can afford and a little bit more. Oh, and there is a new Version of Final Cut Pro coming out soon that will be Intel only and 64 bit capable, so Apple is moving ahead on this front, too. Remember, not all of Adobe's CS apps are 64 bit yet either. It's just one more technology in transition.
One point I will concede, however, is that Windows has better video drivers than OS X. Even on a Mac, running Windows in Boot Camp delivers better video frame rates than the Mac versions of the same apps running in OS X. So, for reasons of cost and better video support, a Windows PC is probably the way to go. PCs also have it over Macs in the number of options available. If you are not a techie yourself, I agree as well that it is probably a good idea to have someone who is built it custom for you. Of course, with a custom PC you won't get the kind of warrantee that comes from Dell or Apple, but the person who builds it for you will probably be able to service it as well.
Ultimately, of course, your budget is likely to govern the kind of PC you get more than your preferred specs. But even with Windows PCs you get what you pay for. A cheap PC is just that, a cheap PC. Inexpensive PCs are affordable because they use inferior components. Keep that in mind.

Tech Specs of the audio input jack? (which is better, an iMic, or the MBP?)

Well because the iMic has such a cheap sounding/terrible audio output....
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2132385&tstart=0
....I am trying to figure out which would be better for the audio INPUT?
I am surprised to see that both the iMic and the combined jack on the 13" MacBook Pro seem to record in stereo, but technical wise, which is better? I DO know that the iMic is better for non-amped mics, that the iMic will pre-amp the signal where as the MBP will only accept line-in signals. So other then that, which is better?
Thanks,
Scott

Well, I sent back the iCrap...I mean iMic. I had to take a loss of $10 but oh well. (stupid apple return policy.)
Anyways, my solution was to buy a similar adapter off ebay for only $7. This USB interface is not a brand name one, it is one of those "china knock-off's" but it works. The Audio output it a lot louder but still slightly distorts like the iMic. However, the audio input works just fine. So my solution is to use BOTH the external USB interface, and the jack on the MBP at the same time. That will give me the best of both worlds. AND, it only cost $7 and came in 3 days, vs the adapter I bought from apple that coast over $35 and took a MONTH to ship.

Quicktime Pro VS Sorenson Squeeze which is better for uploading to YouTube?

I'm thinking of buying Quicktime Pro or Sorenson Squeeze - which is better for uploading to YouTube? Which would give my video better quality?
Also, with regard to Sorenson Squeeze: The website says these are its requirements - could someone explain what each of them means in logical terms?
Mac OS X system requires:
Power PC with G5 processor or greater or Intel processor - (I'll be using this program with a MacBook Pro - will this work?)
Mac OS X 10.4 or later - (Again, will this work with a MacBook Pro?)
512 MB of RAM
QuickTime 7.2 or later
DirectX 9.0b or later (What is this and how will I get it? Is it free?)
* Mac users must have the Flip4Mac plugin from Telestream (Is this plugin free?) ** Windows only feature * Plugin sold separately
Please be as specific as possible.
Thank you so much in advance for answering my questions! It is really helpful!

First.
You have no control over the conversion to Flash video (done during the YouTube upload) if you use QuickTime .mov format.
Second.
YouTube does allow H.264 Video for its "high quality" display so you would want a QuickTime .mov container.
Now you are even more confused than when you started.
Flip4Mac allows export from QuickTime (and apps like iMovie that use it) to Windows Media Player (.wmv) formats. They will also be converted to Flash Video by YouTube so you gain nothing by using it.
You don't need Squeeze, QuickTime Pro or the Flip4Mac upgrades. Just use iMovie 7 (part of iLife '08).

Dolby 2.0.ac3 VERSUS AIFF? What are the merits of each?which is better?

Like the title says really... Which out of the Dolby 2.0.ac3 codec or the AIFF codec is better? I'm authoring a few DVD's and have had a few comments back saying that they can only hear one audio channel, I have been using just the Dolby codec in my DVD. Is it used for surround sound? is there one that I shouldn't use? Is one of them not widely used by DVD players or computers wanting to play them?
Any explantions of these two file types would be brilliant.
Thanks

Hey overcast
sorry for the delayed response, since you see everyone always say "use .ac3 over .aif), but sometimes the "why" is a little unclear, and a lot of times, it's just "use it bcz it's better".
as far as which is better, both have advantages and disadvantages.
for example:
f you want more technical info, let me kone of the biggest advantages of Dolby Digital (.ac3) is that it's the defacto choice for audio on DVD and a lot of broadcasaters, since this is the only codec that keeps (for the most part) the audio elements original fidelity at the lowest possible bit-rate from all video codecs currently out. one drawback is that the waveform has a stricter ceiling and floor, ie the loss of fidelity.
you would need professional decoders, verifiers and bit-stream analyzers to truly see the difference, but can you hear it, only the most attuned ear in optimal conditions can hear a difference (of course IMHO).
however, lossless apple audio (.aif) (believe me, still compressed, but with a small ratio) is almost as good and uncompressed (.pcm) audio and retains way more fidelity and a comparable bit-rate to that of the uncompressed audio. the range of the waveform is almost identical to that of raw audio.
an additional note for .aif is that it's bit-rate is almost identical to that of uncompressed audio, so it takes up more bandwith, but once again, the sound is "richer" therefore this is personally my codec choice when authoring music DVD's where i have stereo (again, IMHO).
i guess thats the meat of it. if you need more information, let me know.
Mikey M.

Which imac shall I buy ??

Which imac shall I buy ??
Uses include word processing and spreadsheets, light use of logic, some gaming and bootcamp. I will be getting it on finance over four years so want it to be future proof beyond this time . Thanks

The iMac refresh usually comes toward the end of the end.
No one knows exactly when, though.
Something better, faster, cheaper is always around the corner.
Buy what you need/want now.
It isn't suddenly going to go obsolete.
Budget and save to be able to purchase and register for the extended AppleCare plan before your free one year of service ends. This will extend the warranty repairs out to another two years.
I highly advise doing this as iMacs have a long and uneven reliability history, IMO.

Which iMac 27" to buy?

I am thinking about buying an iMac 27-inch, but i am confused about which configurations i should choose
Is it enough with the one that has a 2.9 Ghz processor and 512 mb VRAM and then upgrade the harddrive to a fusion drive, or would it be better to buy the one with a 3.2 Ghz processor and 1 gb VRAM and then not upgrade the harddrive to a fusion drive?
I am worried about the amount of VRAM in the 2.9 Ghz version.

MartinR wrote:
Keep in mind the Fusion drive is only a 128GB SSD coupled with a traditional hard drive - it's not a pure SSD.
Anandtech did a revealing analysis of the Apple Fusion drives and concluded, and I quote "... Fusion Drive may be good, but it's not magic ... If 128GB of storage isn’t enough for all of your frequently used applications, data and OS to begin with, you’re going to have a distinctly more HDD-like experience with Fusion Drive."
Anandtech did an extensive report but its conclusions don't match my real world experience with the Fusion drive. And since I also have a late model computer with an SSD and one with a standard 7200 RPM drive and use them the same way I do have real world experience. Do you? (Incidentally I have also used a both the first and second generation Seagate hybrid.)
While Apple's fusion drive is only 128GB (and my hard drive is substantially fuller than that) the onloading and offloading of data occurs in the background and is extremely 'intelligent'. Based on my experience with the Seagate hybrids, I was expecting to find that some apps launched quickly because they were on the SSD while others had been offloaded and therefore launched more slowly. I'm not seeing this happen. I also expected that with longtime use and no restarts that the 'intelligence' might favor applications over the OS. That also hasn't happened. The computer continues to boot with SSD speeds and swap files are just as fast.
A distinctly more HDD-like experience? No - not so far. And based on my nearly 6 months experience I do find the $250 expense worth it. (That's not to say I wouldn't like to see Apple cut the price given that $250 can buy a 256GB SSD today.)

Which Macbook Pro to buy as a college student?

There are 3 different Macbook Pro's out there that I can buy with the rebate / reduced price / free iPod Touch. The problem is I don't know which one to buy. Many people said that the difference between a 2.4 and 2.5 core 2 duo cpu is only 5%. Then there is a bit of difference from 256mb to 512mb of the 8600m graphics card.
Basically I will outline what I will be needing from a laptop so you guys can help me make the right decision. But for now before I say what the outline is, you bought your Macbook Pro; did you choose the right one? If you didn't and you could go back in time, which one would you have bought?
Anyways, obviously the laptop is for college work. So Microsoft Word, Powerpoint, Photoshop and such. But of course there will be some gaming here and there. I am a Blizzard fanatic and I only play Blizzard games. From diablo 2, starcraft and now Warcraft 3 is pretty much all I play. I am not even going to try WoW as it could probably ruin my college carreer.
But the game I'm really anticipating is Starcraft 2. Which Macbook Pro would be able to handle that game in your opinion?
But I hope these information is good enough so you guys will know which one I should buy. But if you guys have any other questions on what I will be using the MBP for then let me know so I can help you help me pick the right decision.
Thanks!

If you're going to use your new laptop for college use/gaming/general use, my recommendation is going for the $1799 MacBook Pro 2.4GHz. I recommend this one over the others for a few reasons. As mentioned previously, the 0.1GHz in processor speed in essentially unnoticeable. With regard to RAM, its always best to have your system maxed out in order to achieve its full capacity. However, I do recommend going through www.otherworldcomputing.com or a 3rd party RAM merchant to purchase your additional RAM. You can get it for a drastically reduced price there, and then have an AASP install it for you. Bear in mind that installing RAM yourself could void your warranty. My point about the RAM is, the 2GB standard in the $1799 MBP version is sufficient. Also, the graphics card. 256MB should be sufficient to support your gaming, and unless you plan on getting a large display, it shouldn't be necessary to double the VRAM. So, based on the information you provided, the lower-end model should be plenty enough for your needs. Hope this helps.

Is is better to buy an external Hard drive or an external CD RW Burner?

I am shopping to buy an external hard drive, too, to back up all my important data.....but could I buy a external CD RW Burner to burn back-up disc and it will do the same job. Or is is better to buy an external Hard drive to save the data? Will I be able to burn CD Back-ups from my external hard drive?
In other words, I am a little confused on whether to buy an external hard drive or external CD RW Burner? What is the best route?
Thanks for any body that can help with this issue.

Hi,
Welcome to Apple Discussions
I suggest getting a external hard drive over getting an external CD-RW or DVD-RW. One of the major reason is that its great for backing up your internal hard drive; you can do it all in one place. One should always backup their hard drive just incase anything happens to your computer. One can't predict the day when a friend trips over their own feet; knocking your iBook on the floor with a huge crash. The most annoying thing to carry around when traveling is the Mac OS X install discs. I hate bringing them with me because I am in constant fear that I will loose them. The reason I bring them with me is because if something happens while I am away, I can troubleshoot my problem. I can startup from the install disc and then run Disk Utility, Archive and Install, Erase, and partition my hard drive. Once someone has a problem on the road; they will never leave their house without the discs. Instead of carrying around those discs, I partitioned one of my external hard drives into three sections, one for backup (140Gb), one for Mac OS X Tiger (10Gb), and the last one is for Panther (10Gb. I gave my girlfriend an iBook and she has Panther on it). This means I am equipped to startup my computer without using my internal drive.
Have you ever lost your iTunes library or your TurboTax data? Well, by backing up your hard drive (internal to external), you can save all your vital data incase something happens. You will find it a life saver if anything ever happens.
If you are looking into external hard drives, I suggest anything from LaCie, SmartDisk, or Western Digital
I recommend the LaCie D2 Hard Drive Extreme w/ Triple Interface, SmartDisk CrossFire, or the WD Dual Option.
I use a SmartDisk CrossFire for both my iTunes library as well as my iPhoto library. If you need help moving your iTunes library you might want to look at Knowledge Base Document #301748 explains How to Move Your iTunes Library.
I don't think you want an external burner of any kind for backing files because it will cost you a lot more in the end. You will have to use multiple discs for one big folder like iTunes. It is a pain and is also expensive. You can easily loose a disc or scratch it up.
Jon
PS Duane brings up the a really good point.
Macbook 2.0 White (100Gb HD 2Gb RAM) Mac Mini 1.42Ghz, iPod (All), Airport (Graphite & Express), G4 1.33Ghz iBook, G4 iMac 1Ghz, G3 500Mhz, iBook iMac 233Mhz, eMate, Power Mac 5400 LC, PowerBook 540c, Macintosh 128K, Apple //e, Apple //, and some more... Mac OS X (10.4.7) Moto Razr, iLife '06, SmartDisk 160Gb, Apple BT Mouse, Sight, Minolta 5D...

Which is better to buy in ear, over ear or on ear headphones

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for