Which is the best monitor for macbook pro 2012 with retina?

I would like to connect a larger monitor to my retina macbook pro late 2012. It will be only for office use but I would like the best ppi. Thanks

I would like to connect a larger monitor to my retina macbook pro late 2012. It will be only for office use but I would like the best ppi. Thanks

Similar Messages

  • What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

    What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

    1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
    If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
    OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
    2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
    The following caveats apply to XProtect:
    It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
    It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
    3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
    Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
    It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
    A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
    An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
    For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
    4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
    5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
    That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
    Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
    A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
    Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
    Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
    Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
    Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
    Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
    6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
    Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
    Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
    Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
    Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
    7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
    Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
    Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
    In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
    By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
    8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
    An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
    A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
    ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
    Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
    The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
    9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
    10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

  • What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

    What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

    I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

  • Best Monitor for Macbook Pro 13"

    i am looking to purchase a Monitor to enable me to use my MBP as a desktop when i get home with a wireless keyboard and mouse.  Anyone know which is the best monitor to go for? ideally between 21 and 27 inches? i was looking at a samsung but i have heard Dell ultrasharp are quite good also?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated?
    thanks

    Honestly I would grab an UltraSharp over the Apple display. The Dell's have adjustable stands and way more inputs. I have used the 27" Apple display next to a Planar 24" and the Apple display isn't really all that impressive.
    http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&cs=ussoho1&l=en&sku=2 24-8284

  • Best cooling pad for Macbook pro 15" with retina (2013)?

    Hi,
    I have a Macbook pro 15" with retina display, bought in 2013 and I started playing Starcraft on the machine. It becomes extremely hot, almost unbearable to touch and after searching online, I've been told that overheating of macs is relatively common. It is also extremely noisy. Firstly, is this something that I should be worried about, i.e. is it normal? (it is still under warranty) Also, I was looking to get a cooling pad- which one would you recommend? I couldn't find many macbook pro w/ retina display specific ones, so I thought maybe a generic laptop cooling pad?
    There are so many to choose from and I don't know where to start! Perhaps the Cooler Master NotePal X3?
    Thank you for your help!

    is it normal?
    Is the game rated for the GPU on the Mac (look at the game's specs)?  If not, then I would not run it on that Mac.
    If it is rated for the GPU on the Mac, then no, it is not normal, and I would have the machine looked at, after running the hardware test that came with it.
    See my tip about MacBook Pro heat:
    kmb kmbp: How to deal with MacBook Pro and MacBook heat?
    The GPU is the Graphics Processor Unit.
    A cooling pad might help, but it might also mask a more serious problem.      I've used this cooler on Powerbooks before:
    http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Notebook-Cooler-USB-Powered/dp/B0000BVYTV
    But only outside warranty.   Mind you, because of the heat, sometimes some of the darker markings on the edge of the cooler and come off on the bottom of the notebook.  Hence why I would only use it outside of warranty, since such marks may make the AppleCare representative think you might have done something to damage it.

  • PLEASE HELP me select new internal hard drive for Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina)

    Good afternoon.
    I just bought a Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina) 15 inch from a friend.  I think it is running Mountain Lion (has not been upgraded to Mavericks yet), and has iLife on it.  It came with the stock 500 gb 5400 rpm internal hard drive.  At home, I only have the Snow Leopard OS installation Cds and a copy of iLife 2011 installation Cds.  I am going to buy 16 gb of RAM from Other World Computing to install.
    I want to replace the hard drive with a 1 tb hard drive, preferably something that is $100 or less.
    I talked to Other World Computing (OWC) and looked at the Data Doubler Option to replace the optical drive with a Solid State drive, but decided that for now I want to keep the optical drive inside the computer for portability issues.
    I know that Solid State drives are better, but they are still too small, and I want the ease and portability of a 1 tb size INSIDE my computer.
    Initially I was going to order this from Other World Computing: 1.0TB 2.5" HGST Travelstar 7K1000 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s 9.5mm Notebook Drive 32MB Cache. *'New' Factory Replacement with 2+ Year HGST Warranty*    As of April 4, 2014 it's on sale for $79
    But then I started reading some of the discussions online and thought maybe I should get a hybrid solid state drive?
    I saw on Amazon the Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive SATA 6Gbps 64MB Cache 2.5-Inch ST1000LM014  It's on sale for $94.
    But according to some reviews, this Seagate has a platter that is only 5400rpm, unlike the previous Seagate Momentum that has a platter speed of 7200rpm.
    How reliable are the Seagate, versus a Toshiba or Western Digital or Hitachi or something else?
    Here are my questions about replacing the hard drive:
    1.  Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
    2.  Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
    3.  Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
    4.  Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer.  Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
    5.  If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
    6.  If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
    I would love to get some recommendations about the smartest option to upgrade my hard drive with something that will be fast (I edit lots of photos) and large (1 tb) that isn't going to cost too much.  I don't know much about the different brands or options (and there are so many listed in tons of online reviews), that I got really overwhelmed and confused by the info out there.
    I would really appreciate any help and advice.  I've never switched out a hard drive before.
    PLEASE HELP !!!  Thanks!
    Here is the "About this Mac" Info:
    Macbook Pro 15-in Mid 2012
    Model Identifier: MacBookPro9,1
    Processor: 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7
    Memory: 4 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
    Software: OS x 10.8.5
    Storage (Hard drive): APPLE HDD ST500LM012 Media, Rotational, SATA, GPT (GUID Partition Table)

    1.  Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
    The boot drive, regardless of what it is, needs to be formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled).  This is standard with OS X.
    2.  Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
    There are arguments pro and con.  Bottom line, SSD's and hybrid drives are still quite expensive per GB than standard hard drives.  If you have the bucks and are a speed demon, go ahead.   I have better use for my money.   Standard hard drives are mechanical and may wear out over time.  But even though SSDs are not mechancial, they can still go bad and ultimately they even have a limit to their write capacity.  The jury is still out on this debate.
    3.  Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
    No
    4.  Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer.  Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
    You can physically put the hard drive in but probably not install Snow Leopard on this MBP.
    The mid-2012 MacBookPro9,1 models came with Lion 10.7.3 (11D2097) preinstalled.   It is very unlikely you would be able to install Snow Leopard on it.  Historically you cannot install a version of OS X that is earlier than the version that came with your Mac (even if you replace the hard drive).
    5.  If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
    Not via Snow Leopard on this MBP.  See my response to #4.
    6.  If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
    No.  They are completely independent of each other; they are just independent storage units (drives) and their RAM does not interact.

  • Best monitor for MacBook Pro (Late 2012)

    After searching Apple's knowledge base (reference: Using 4K displays and Ultra HD TVs with Mac computers - Apple Support), it appears that MacBook Pro (Late 2012 model) does not support 4K monitors, correct?
    If this is the case, what's the best monitor (resolution and pricepoint) I can get for this model? Should I just try to find an old refurbished 27" Thunderbolt Display?
    My MBPr runs a 2.9Ghz Intel Core i7 w/8GB RAM and OS X v10.9.5.
    Thanks,
    Nicholas

    A Dell ultra Sharp would be a good buy.  Depending on what size you want:
    http://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp-27-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00P0EQD1Q
    Otherwise, if you don't mind spending the money, and not worried about not using the monitor to its fullest this BENQ is an excellent monitor
    http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-BL3201PH-Monitor-32-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00O1B5M9I/ref=sr _1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1424384286&sr=1-11&keywords=4k+monitors

  • Which is the best 15 Inch Macbook Pro choice for me?

    So I am a currently attending college and studying at the moment CIM (Computer Information Management). I work a lot on my computer either on school work, personal projects, and some minor freelance work. I use a lot of Adobe CS4 software such as Photoshop, Illustrator, Indesign, Flash and Dreamweaver. But I am going to want to get into studying more 3D software products as well. Such as Z-Brush, Maya and what ever 3D software is the best and easiest to use. I can look into that later. But here is the deal. I know what ever choice I make, regarding any MacBook product. It's an upgrade from the laptop I am currently using. I am not dying for the need of a new computer. But with the study and field I want to get into. I definitely need it pretty soon. So my help/question in request is:
    Which Macbook Pro (15in/ if 13in will hit it right on the mark of requirements) I should get.
    Alright so I am currently running this:
    Windows 7
    Processor: Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2390 @ 1.86GHz 1.87GHz
    Installed memory (RAM): 3.00GB
    System Type: 32-bit Operating System
    I do have some what of a total budget. Which is: 2,450. That is the Online cost for the Macbook Pro 15in - 2.66GHz Intel Core i7 w/ the Apple are protection plan. (Student discount applied)
    That leaves a huge hit on my wallet for a bit. So 2,000 would work best. But I don't mind taking the risk since Macbook Pros were recently updated and MacBook Pro products are a lot more longer lasting.
    I would love to hear from as many people as possible. The more lamest terms the better. Any information would help. I know the battery life info and such. I have a few External Hard drives. So I don't have an issue with space. But if you have any more question that might be able to help you give me more information to help me make the right choice by all means.
    I'd prefer less answers saying. i7 cause its better and will last you for a while anyways. More in depth reason would help. If not just your input on which works best.

    Personally, I would say go for the 2.4 GHz 15-inch model to drop the price so you can then upgrade the RAM to 8 gb or/and to an SSD. Apple's processing speed differences of 2.4/2.53/2.66 are insignificant, and the only reason I see of going to the i7 model is because of a small boost in the graphics cache (512mb) for gaming.
    It all really depends on 2 things:
    1) how many and how huge of programs you like to run at once
    2) how much space you need on your computer for data
    If you run a lot of programs at once or use larger programs like Final Cut, an upgrade to 8gb of RAM will make your computer much faster. A .13 GHz increase in speed won't do anything except cause the program you're using at the moment to possibly work more quickly. RAM is crucial for an abundance of work. It is also more expensive to add 4 gb though...
    On the data note, I prefer using an external hard drive to not only backup my files but to also use it as a hard drive. For example, I keep what I need to use at the moment (like current videos i'm editing) on the computer and keep the stuff I won't use for weeks or stuff I'll probably never use again on the external drive. It keeps my computer from having 100s of gigabytes of info on it...easier to manage the computer and its contents. Even being someone who does a lot of video editing, a 128 gb SSD is the perfect size for me if not more than enough. Bonuses of the SSD: faster read/write, no mechanical parts such as spinning dics, silent. The HD that comes standard is really the only thing that makes noise on a computer aside from the cooling. Once again though, SSD is a more expensive upgrade.
    As always, it's personal opinion and up to you man!
    If you'd like to keep it at 2000, go for the 2.4 GHz model (1699 with student discount I think), and use the 300 for whatever you'd like to add on, whether it be the care plan or what I've mentioned. This might sound complicated, but if you do decide to buy the SSD, then consider the 2.53 GHz model because it only costs 60 more than the SSD on the 2.4 model. You get an extra 50 off with the student discount AND the SSD upgrade is cheaper because your base memory is different.
    Good luck!

  • Which is the best way for iOS to communicate with the webserver SOAP or JSON

    Which one is the best for iOS to interact with the webserver.. to exchange messages like
    1. Normal NSString
    2. images
    3. audio
    4. videos
    like any other stream of bits..
    Thank you

    There is a reason why JSON took over AJAX world. I have been too busy to research this myself, but you may be interested in WebSockets.

  • What is the best printer for macbook pro

    The hp series is good, but 7510 goes only to 10.7.
    Any other printers as easy as hp for home printing, not office?

    I have a hp photosmart C7180 and it works great. I run os x 10.8.1 no problems. Samsung is great aswell and brother. But the hp photosmart C7180 is the on i would tell you to use

  • My Macbook Pro 15" with Retina Display did not come with an "iWorks" app.

    As I read the specification of my Macbook Pro 15" with Retina display, my laptop, it states that Macbook Pro 15" with Retina Display comes with Pages, Keynotes, and Numbers, app for free along with "iLife" apps. But Apparently my laptop didn't come with "iWork". Is there anyway I can I get it for free, or should I buy it in app store to have it?

    Hi Astronap,
    Welcome to the Apple Support Communities!
    iWork applications for Mac including Pages, Numbers, and Keynote are free on the Mac App Store for qualifying Mac computers. The specific information from the articles I have pulled out for you, but is located in the smaller print toward the bottom of the article.
    Apple - Pages for Mac
    Pages is free on the Mac App Store for qualifying Mac computers purchased on or after October 1, 2013. OS X Yosemite required. Downloading apps requires an Apple ID.
    Cheers,
    Joe

  • Looking at Refurb MacBook Pro 13" with Retina Display... Which is best for video editing?

    Hi all,
    I'm looking at replacing my current 2010 MacBook Pro with something newer. I do quite a bit of video editing with Final Cut Pro X and some webdesign in Dreamweaver CS6 or Wordpress on Chrome. I need something that will be able to render the Final Cut videos. I'm looking at the refurb 2012 MacBook Pro 13" with retina display, an i5 and 8GB of ram, OR a 2013 13" with 4GB of ram and the Intel Iris Graphics... Which is better? I've heard really great things about the Intel Iris Graphics, but is having the 8GB of RAM more important?
    Thanks for your help!

    I would think if you are going to run both of those programs at the same time, or even one at a time, a system with discrete graphic would be a better fit for you.
    The next question is if you are doing web design do you really need a retina display. At this time only apple has them so everyother computer viewing your web designs wouldn't see the difference, if there is any to begin with.

  • Which are the best settings for exporting comps before edditing in Premiere Pro

    Hello everyone!
    As the title says, which are the best settings for exporting comps from AE to Pr.Pro and then edit them?
    Let  me explain: I have two comps in AE (intro and outro) and want to export  them in Pr.Pro for edditing along with a fottage i shot.
    When i render them the size of the files are huge (30 sec= 7GB).
    Which  is the best method (and settings) i can export the intro and outro to a 'normal' file  size and then put them in Pr.Pro without loosing any quality??
    [Comp settings: HDTV 1080 29.97 (1920x1080)]
    AE and Premiere Pro both CS4

    If you're rendering and exporting an intermediate video file to go from After Effects to any other piece of post-production software (such as Premiere Pro), you want to make sure that you're not losing any quality.
    Most compression methods, which make movies smaller, also lose some of the image data---i.e., quality. There are a few compression methods that don't lose any image data; these are "lossless" codecs. These lossless codecs do decrease the size of a video file, but they're nowhere near as effective at decreasing size as the lossy codecs are. But file size isn't important when you're doing post-production work. Big files are a fact of life in post-production.
    Examples of lossless codecs include the PNG codec and the Animation codec at the highest quality settings, both of which can be used in a QuickTime (.mov) container. I prefer the PNG codec; it's more efficient for photorealistic images, whereas Animation is more efficient for things like cartoons. There are lots of other lossless and nearly lossless codecs. A lot of people that do video editing like the Lagarith codec, but that is something that you'd have to go and get; it's not part of a standard CS5 or QuickTime installation.
    See these FAQ entries for information about compression and why file sizes are big for losslessly encoded files:
    "FAQ: Why is my output file huge...?"
    "FAQ: What is the best format for rendering and exporting from After Effects?"
    By the way, keep in mind that you don't always need to render and export an intermediate movie to go from After Effects to Premiere Pro. There are other ways to move data back and forth between these applications, including Dynamic Link. Which is best depends on the specific circumstance. See "Working with Premiere Pro and After Effects".

  • What is the best Monitor for Video editing & Graphic Design?

    Hi every one,
    I would like to find out what is the best monitor for video editing and graphic design that you recomend, I am trying to buy one but not sure which one is good and not expansive.
    Thanks very much

    I don't want 2 monitors, so a single 27inch model just what I need... plenty of room for PPro, or I can have a Word document and a Text file open and side by side
    John,
    That is personal taste and there is no discussing taste. However, from my perspective, and that is personal, I prefer 3840 x 1080 resolution with dual monitors over 1920 x 1080 with a single monitor, but that is because I very often have Firefox, Filezilla, Dreamweaver and some other applications open at the same time, switching between the Adobe forums, Gmail accounts, Notebook results from the PPBM5 data submissions, PPBM5 form submissions, MySQL access, phpadmin pages to update the database, the PPBM5 results pages and various DW .php pages for the maintenance of our database and switching back and forth between various versions of PR. I occasionally really run out of real estate with all these applications and could not consider a single monitor with only 1920 x 1080 resolution, even if it were a 105" screen. In the future I would even like to have a four monitor setup (with MPE hardware support) in a two by two configuration, so that I can freely move my application screens around.
    If that happens, notice I say if and not when, my preference for a monitor would be something like 4 Samsung F2380 monitors. Small bezel, great display and panel, affordable.

  • May I use the power adaptor for Macbook pro into Macbook Air?

    May I use the power adaptor for Macbook pro into Macbook Air?

    Yes.  You can use one of a higher wattage, just not a lower wattage.
    Here's the full info.
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2346
    Regards,
    Captfred

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